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PostPosted: Mon Jul 31, 2017 9:06 pm 
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Year and Trim: 2004 blackcedar
Passenger side blowing cold but driver side blowing warm need help getting to the actuator that makes this side cold.


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 31, 2017 10:42 pm 
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Location: Browerville, MN
Year and Trim: 2004 GXP - plus a handful of other Bonnevilles
Can you change it so both sides will blow hot and then change it back to cold? If it seems to change from HOT to warm or just slightly chilled, its usually just a weak freon charge. The system calls for 2lbs but performs much better with 2.5 lbs. Just try a simple cheap 12oz can of freon and see if it makes a difference.

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 01, 2017 12:34 pm 
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Not to split hairs because I get that "Freon" is used to refer to A/C refrigerant the same way "Xerox" gets used in place of a copy machine...

But Freon specifically refers to R-12 and R-22.

These cars use R-134a. I just want to make sure you get the right stuff.

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PostPosted: Sat Aug 05, 2017 11:21 pm 
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Year and Trim: 2004 blackcedar
R 13th right thanks I tried the turning it to heat and back both sides get hot but go cold and just the right side gets cold and the left side luke .cool what actuator makes it cold and how do I fix it?


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 06, 2017 11:33 pm 
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Year and Trim: 2000 SLE Saved from the scrapyard.
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This is what you have to get to , which is behind this...
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Which is behind this...
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It might be possible to service the actuators without digging in this far, but it's a bit of a task to remove the dash. I would have probably taken more pictures, but I was digging the entire inside of the car out to clean it, no garage and the threat of rain kept me from drawing out the process more than the day that I had the dash out and back in. I did most of it myself, except putting the front section of the dash in, I had help with that....all that leather and plastic is a bit unruly. I could have probably managed, but when you have help available, take it...even if it's from a reluctant 17 year old boy who has no interest in fixing things like his old man.... :roll:

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PostPosted: Sun Aug 06, 2017 11:54 pm 
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Oh, and you will need to remove the seats and the center console to be able to work freely. You'll probably have to remove the passenger seat just to work freely under that side of the dash if you can get to the motor that isn't working right. It's entirely possible that something is binding it up ( causing the motor to not be able to freely move the blend door, so be prepared for that as well. IF you can get the blend door actuator motor out, make sure you can rotate the blend door fully before committing to just replacing the blend door actuator.

The blend door actuator has limit switches in it, but sometimes it's not the blend door motor that's actually bad...it could simply be a bad head unit. I would swap out the climate control box first, just to make sure it isn't that. I have my old one still...it works, I just replaced it for better cosmetics as one of the knobs was worn a bit and the price was right at the JY. I'd be willing to send it to you if you wanted to pay shipping ( probably under 10 bucks ). If you have a local yard that does pick and pull, it might be faster and cheaper to pick one up yourself, or perhaps there is a local Bonneville resident that will let you hotswap theirs out for yours...super easy to do....it's plug and play. Pop the dash overlay off, a couple of screws and you are ready to pull it out and plug the other one in temporarily. ( don't try to use yours in the other car though, just in case there is an internal problem that could damage the donor vehicle. ).

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 07, 2017 9:08 am 
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I'm 6'3"/220lbs and I've done plenty of actuator replacements without removing the dash, seats or console. Just remove the kick panel and lay awkwardly on your back for a few minutes.

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 07, 2017 9:21 pm 
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I agree with Andrew. Being of similar height and weight, and doing a fair amount of work under the dash, the only thing that has to be removed is the kick panel. You may want to be sure the seats are as far back as far back as possible.

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 07, 2017 11:08 pm 
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Location: Isanti, MN
Year and Trim: 2000 SLE Saved from the scrapyard.
I'm sure the actuators are serviceable from just removing the kick plates and awkward positions, but if there's a bigger problem, such as a blend door binding, or a broken plastic connection, you are digging into the dash to fix it. I had that happen on my Astro, the blend door actuator broke the plastic nub off of the arm that moved the door and I had to remove most of the dash to get enough access to fix it. Hopefully this won't have to be this involved.

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 14, 2017 4:06 pm 
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Year and Trim: 2004 blackcedar
Thanks for all the info I think it's time to sale


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 16, 2017 7:10 am 
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Year and Trim: 2003 ssei
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Did you ever confirm that the system is fully charged?


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