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PostPosted: Tue Mar 26, 2013 5:18 pm 
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The back fuel line is leaking , the back connection for the back 3 fuel injectors rail connection .

It was leaking pretty bad , then i replaced the white plastic clip . it slowed it down allot , but still leaks , and when you wiggle it left to right it leaks and hiss's .


what else is in there to replace ? are there some o rings that can be replaced ?

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 26, 2013 8:01 pm 
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Yes there is. GM carries the O ring sets, usually sold in packs of 8. Buy two sets and do all o rings front and back, including lowers into the manifold. It is quite easy, just takes some patience. The o rings are fitted to the injector itself on top and bottom. They are likely leaking due to being cracked and dry.

The hiss is a loss of fuel pressure. The leak will always be there when the pump is running, and you will eventually ruin the fuel pump because it never holds system up to pressure. It is also the worst kind of fire hazard you could have near the back of your engine due to the exhaust downpipe passing there close.

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 26, 2013 8:03 pm 
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I think these are what you're looking for. I think they are the SK18 set at the bottom, supply and return I think.

But I have been known to be wrong before.

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carco ... 8L%2BV6,ck[ID],0,ck[idlist],0,ck[viewcurrency],CAD,ck[PHP_SESSION_ID],cfvmb7cbqbrt4t2j1v7j1k69n0

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 26, 2013 8:18 pm 
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Those O-rings are meant for the steel connectors, not the plastic. I bought several sets of fuel o-rings and none of them worked for the plastic connectors. Don was right there with me when I tried this, and even he tried to fish them into the connector but didn't succeed. My solution was to do away with the nylon fuel line altogether and run high pressure fuel line. Not elegant, but functional.

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2000 SSEi - Resurrection in progress. Built L67 w/L32 fuel rail, ported heads, and cam. Camaro front brake system, GXP cluster, and much more in planning.

BonneMe wrote:
Looks like a Volt, Sonata, and Taurus got it on.


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 26, 2013 8:43 pm 
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Or use a push-to-connect and cut off the quick connect? Probably cheaper too. Use a calipers to know what size to get (metric vs standard)

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'97 Chevy Camaro - 3800, T5, T-tops, my DD
'05 Cadillac STS - V8, AWD, her DD
'89 Buick LeSabre Limited - winter DD
'84 GMC Sierra Classic - Twin turbo 3800
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'92 Pontiac Bonneville SSE future project

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'67 Buick LeSabre - future victim


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 27, 2013 12:39 pm 
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FasGP wrote:
Yes there is. GM carries the O ring sets, usually sold in packs of 8. Buy two sets and do all o rings front and back, including lowers into the manifold. It is quite easy, just takes some patience. The o rings are fitted to the injector itself on top and bottom. They are likely leaking due to being cracked and dry.

The hiss is a loss of fuel pressure. The leak will always be there when the pump is running, and you will eventually ruin the fuel pump because it never holds system up to pressure. It is also the worst kind of fire hazard you could have near the back of your engine due to the exhaust downpipe passing there close.


it not leaking at the injectors , its the fuel feed tube . the black nylon plastic hard line with a right ange quick disconnect. this is what is leaking .

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 27, 2013 12:40 pm 
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sandrock wrote:
Those O-rings are meant for the steel connectors, not the plastic. I bought several sets of fuel o-rings and none of them worked for the plastic connectors. Don was right there with me when I tried this, and even he tried to fish them into the connector but didn't succeed. My solution was to do away with the nylon fuel line altogether and run high pressure fuel line. Not elegant, but functional.



Please explain more , what did you do ?

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 27, 2013 12:45 pm 
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MattStrike wrote:
Or use a push-to-connect and cut off the quick connect? Probably cheaper too. Use a calipers to know what size to get (metric vs standard)


do you have a part number or picture of this push to connect replacement ?

i follow you on how a push to connect works , but its like i just need a new 90 degree disconnect that does not leak . and buy like a double ended push to connect union ? a pic would help ?

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 27, 2013 2:23 pm 
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think i found the fix , dorman makes this .

http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/details/QQPontiacQQBonnevilleQQDormanQQFuel_LineQQ19922005QQRB800059.html

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 27, 2013 2:34 pm 
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This is what I did with my returnless fuel rail install. I took a metal fuel line connector (junkyard pillage), added the high-pressure rated fuel line, removed the old plastic fuel line from the metal line that's at the firewall, and used fuel injection clamps to hold it all together.

If you go through the junkyard in the GM section, you'll find metal connectors easily, both in straight like what is here and in 90* bends. This is what I'm building my fuel lines with now.

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2005 GXP - White Gold Pearl, no mods...yet.
2000 SSEi - Resurrection in progress. Built L67 w/L32 fuel rail, ported heads, and cam. Camaro front brake system, GXP cluster, and much more in planning.

BonneMe wrote:
Looks like a Volt, Sonata, and Taurus got it on.


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 27, 2013 2:41 pm 
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For that link you posted...yes, that is what you'd use. But it's a bi*ch to install correctly. You have to have a special tool to push that barb into both nylon lines. If not, you run the very likely risk of ruining the original fuel line...it's actually double-walled and the inner wall likes to collapse and push its way down when you start with the copper barb. Even if you succeed, the original line doesn't like to form very well over the barbs, so it doesn't seal all that nice.

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2005 GXP - White Gold Pearl, no mods...yet.
2000 SSEi - Resurrection in progress. Built L67 w/L32 fuel rail, ported heads, and cam. Camaro front brake system, GXP cluster, and much more in planning.

BonneMe wrote:
Looks like a Volt, Sonata, and Taurus got it on.


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 27, 2013 2:43 pm 
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Amazon used to carry them, I have a thread floating around here with some part numbers...

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I don't know how much boost it takes to blow the tires off. But I know how much I'm going to use!
Image

Runs:
'93 Pontiac Bonneville SSEi - Twincharged, manual, racecar! Build thread
'97 Chevy Camaro - 3800, T5, T-tops, my DD
'05 Cadillac STS - V8, AWD, her DD
'89 Buick LeSabre Limited - winter DD
'84 GMC Sierra Classic - Twin turbo 3800
'97 Buick LeSabre - L67 project
'92 Pontiac Bonneville SSE future project

Doesn't run:
'87 Buick LeSabre T-type - future victim
'67 Buick LeSabre - future victim


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 27, 2013 2:48 pm 
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800-190, 800-191, 800-192, 800-193, 800-194

Also, I have one I grabbed from Lowes for a refridgerator ice maker tubing (Watts Push-fit coupling). It hasn't leaked yet - $4.

Fastenal has a bunch with push-to connect on one side and the fitting of choice on the other if you choose.

Edit:
I grabbed junkyard OEM connectors and spliced the two sections of nylon with these fittings.

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I don't know how much boost it takes to blow the tires off. But I know how much I'm going to use!
Image

Runs:
'93 Pontiac Bonneville SSEi - Twincharged, manual, racecar! Build thread
'97 Chevy Camaro - 3800, T5, T-tops, my DD
'05 Cadillac STS - V8, AWD, her DD
'89 Buick LeSabre Limited - winter DD
'84 GMC Sierra Classic - Twin turbo 3800
'97 Buick LeSabre - L67 project
'92 Pontiac Bonneville SSE future project

Doesn't run:
'87 Buick LeSabre T-type - future victim
'67 Buick LeSabre - future victim


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 27, 2013 5:00 pm 
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thanks MattStrike for the info on push to connect devices. i tried using the dorman barb and it was a pita to fully insert into the nylon line.


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 27, 2013 8:06 pm 
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This is the exact reason I bought the tool kit... I think I paid $150... I have repaired the supply line on my 03 and made the lines for the van from the filter to the engine..

I do agree its a massive PITA to use the repair line from dorman... Only way to really make it work good is to have the tools for the lines... I have used it several times over with 100% success... But its expensive for 1 single repair..


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 29, 2013 4:09 pm 
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gmman wrote:
thanks MattStrike for the info on push to connect devices. i tried using the dorman barb and it was a pita to fully insert into the nylon line.



did you use super hot water and soak both ends of nylon . and use motor oil on the barb ?

this is what the directions say to do ? i'm about to install the dorman barb now . if it fails i will go buy a push to connect .

What is the OD of the nylon fuel line ?

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 29, 2013 7:06 pm 
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for the GM DORMAN part no. 800-058 nylon line:

OD is 3/8"
ID is 5/16"


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 30, 2013 4:51 pm 
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I used boiling hot water and slowly made the bend in the dorman nylon tubing i needed in my hands , then went straight to cold faucet running sink water and hardened perfect bend i needed.

I used boiling hot water again , put brass connector in boiling water for 5 mins , then tip of dorman nylon tubing in water for a few mins too . I used channel locks on the brass connector and the nylon tubing twisted and went over all three barbs , was kinda hard but went in first go . then it went to the cold water and locked the nylon tubing tight over the barbs .

the rest was a pita kind off .

i soaked the cut nylon car side in a cup of boiling hot water , and let the tip of the brass barb in boiling hot water for 5 mins inside . replaces cup of water outside with another hot cup . and pressed it over two and half barbs on the other side . i had to heat up the brass barb with cig lighter for a few moments to heat it back a few times . then i ran cold hose water over area after i plugged connection back into fuel rail .

i cycled the key and then checked for fuel looked good , i started the car and all looked good . let it warm up and dry out . do not see any leaks any more .

i will take a pic and show the repair tonight .

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 01, 2013 4:19 pm 
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reserved for pic

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