Hi guys, yesturday my Bonnie reached a milestone, it just hit 180k miles and because of that I want to give her better protection, I have been putting shell premium in her for a few years and for the past 2 months or so I put in techron fuel system cleaner in every other fill up, but now I want even more protection, I did some research and it seems that lucas heavy duty oil additive is the best but I noticed it is 100% synthetic. Now I have been putting castrol gtx high mileage semisynthetic in the car for the past 6 years, my question is, is it a bad idea to put in a 100% synthetic oil additive in and mix the part standard oil, part synthetic oil? I read that since the additive is so stickey that it sticks to the side of the cylinder walls and provides extra protection, and bring back lost horsepower and increase fuel economy, and increase oil life which I don't care about bc I'm still gonna change it every 3k miles or 3 months, I'm just interested in the protection.
So my question is, is it bad or ok too add a 100% synthetic oil additive to semisynthetic oil?
Also do any of you guys vouch and use the Lucas heavy duty oil additive? And is that one the absolute best or can you recommend a better one.
Cost is not an issue, I see myself as a frugal person but when it comes to my baby, not a single cent is spared, only the best of the best of the best goes anywhere near her.
Thanks in advance, cheers!!

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1993 SSEI SUPERCHARGED AKA "ANGLE"
180,000 MILES
2000 WATT SYSTEM, ALPINE 7 INCH FLIP OUT TOUCH SCREEN TV, 2 12" SUB WOOFERS IN THE TRUNK
2000 WATT ALPINE AMP
LADIES CALL IT A ROLLING CLUB, I GUESS THE VIBRATIONS GET THEM READY FOR SOME FUN
SSEI= SSEXI
NOW WITH BEAUTIFUL BLUE NEON UNDERGLOW
CERTIFIED EAGLE SCOUT MAY 19 2009
REFERRED TO BY EVERYONE AS JAMES BONDS WEEKEND CAR, REFERRED TO BY ME AS ANGEL

I back and recommend the Lucas products. I use both the engine stabilizer, as well as fuel treatment on all my cars.

I run synthetic in my GP, and used Lucas from 80k to 225k when I upgraded the powerplant. I run Castrol high milege in my Bonne for the last 50k using Lucas, no issues.

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2000 SSEi - Hoddmann ported LIM and GenIII, 3.2 MPS, 1.8 SLP's, SSAC's, 3" Catback, AL104, 180tstat, Custom FWI, Cartuned

I definitely like the Lucas products... for an engine that is already having issues to keep it limping along a bit longer.

For an engine without any issues that runs fine as is, just run some good synthetic and change the oil every 5000 miles. These engines are pretty easy on oil, you are throwing away money changing it at 3,000 miles unless you do primarily city driving. Throwing Lucas in there right now will NOT increase your power, or fuel mileage.

The fuel additive every other tank is doing absolutely nothing but draining your wallet.

_________________
Ryan

2003 Bonneville SSEi - The Black Mirror SOLD!
2002 Bonneville SE - The Mutt Complete 2004 SLE interior, drivetrain, and body harness swap, ECC swap, HUD swap, black GXP wheels, GXP headlights and tinted tails - SOLD
2003 BMW 540i M Sport, 2001 BMW X5 4.4i, 2010 GMC Acadia, 2017 Grand Design Imagine 3150BH
1982 Cutlass Supreme - The fun one

I have used it in the past. I would use it before much of the other stuff. They actually have two variety's. One non-sythetic and the synthetic (in a black labelled botte?).

Non-synthetic;


Synthetic;

_________________


Retired Bonneville Owner and former GM Tech:
2004 Pontiac Bonneville GXP: Black/Ebony *SOLD*

Summer Toys: Combined 827 RWHP / 877lb/ft RWTQ
2004 Pontiac GTO: Impulse Blue Metallic/Black/M6: lots 'o mods, 415 RWHP / 405lb/ft RWTQ!
2006 Cadillac STS-V: Light Platinum Metallic/Light Gray/A6 - Spectre CAI, Magnaflow exhaust, Speed Inc. tune, 412 RWHP / 472lb/ft RWTQ

Daily Drivers:
2019 Chrysler Pacifica Limited: Mommy's new RGC
2015 Chrysler Town & Country Limited Platinum: Kids new RGC
2007 Chrysler Town & Country Limited: Sold to neighbor
2009 Pontiac G8 GT: L76, Sport Red Metallic
2003 Chevrolet Suburban 2500: Doeskin Tan - 8.1L Big Block... new plow truck
1999 Chevrolet Suburban: Sunset Gold Metallic - Daddy's winter beater and plow truck

I would recommend saving the money and using full synthetic with a quality oil filter. The synthetic oil has cleaned out my L67 since the first time I pulled it apart, notably on the piston skirts and on the casting walls. Which means the oil passages and cylinder walls are also being kept clean and a good oil supply is reaching the bearings (well, if the cam bearings aren't leaking anyway ).

Nothing wrong with using the Lucas, it's something I would use in a car that ends up sitting more often than I drive it or if I wasn't using synthetic oil.

Last I check, synthetic can be safely mixed with regular oil. I don't see the point, just do a full oil change when it's ready, but I put about 20k miles on my car in 6 months.

_________________
Boost addict


The Fleet:
'93 SSEi - Twincharged + manual Build thread
'97 Camaro - Top swap
'05 STS - V8, AWD, her DD
'92 Trofeo - Fair weather DD
'99 Montana - top swap 3800
'04 Sierra 2500HD - LLY Duramax

Current project:
Something cool, trust me.

Upcoming projects:
'92 Bonneville SSE
'87 LeSabre T-type
'67 LeSabre

Gone to greener pastures:
'84 Sierra Classic - Twin turbo 3800
'97 LeSabre - Top swap

RIP:
'86 LeSabre - pictures
'93 SE - L67

wow, I thought my wife was bad putting on 22k in a year

the problem i ran into when i ran full synthetic a few years ago, the second i turned the engine over i got a quite alarming knocking from the engine and i got really nervious and took it out after 100 miles and when i took it out the oil was so black it looked like i ran it for 3000 miles, and after i took it out the engine immediatly started dripping oil, not a significant amount, not enough to make me have to add an extra quart before the next oil changed but it is dripping, but before i put the synthetic in the car never once dripped oil and now i always have to park in the garage so i dont ruin the driveway, thats why i will never put full synthetic in again until i have enough money to have a mechanic remove the engine and dismantle it, clean it and replace warn parts, until then im going to continue to use castrol gtx high mileage semi-synthetic which is was i feel safe using. so until i have the engine removed and rebuilt im going to stick with what i know works, thats why i was concerned about putting the lucas synthetic oil additive in incase its bad to mix it with the castrol gtx high mileage semi-synthetic, thanks for the help you guys

_________________
1993 SSEI SUPERCHARGED AKA "ANGLE"
180,000 MILES
2000 WATT SYSTEM, ALPINE 7 INCH FLIP OUT TOUCH SCREEN TV, 2 12" SUB WOOFERS IN THE TRUNK
2000 WATT ALPINE AMP
LADIES CALL IT A ROLLING CLUB, I GUESS THE VIBRATIONS GET THEM READY FOR SOME FUN
SSEI= SSEXI
NOW WITH BEAUTIFUL BLUE NEON UNDERGLOW
CERTIFIED EAGLE SCOUT MAY 19 2009
REFERRED TO BY EVERYONE AS JAMES BONDS WEEKEND CAR, REFERRED TO BY ME AS ANGEL

Did the knocking go away though after a few seconds of operation? If so, that *can* be considered normal on these engines due to piston skirt design, metals used, etc. It's called "cold start knock" or often you'll hear it coined as "piston slap". You can also get some valvetrain (namely lifter & rocker), noise. The key though, is that both go away with a minute or so of operation.

If you're have other knocking that isn't going away, it isn't much to do with the type of oil you're using. If anything, a synthetic would stay coated on cylinder walls/piston skirts longer than a conventional, and then pump up/splash up quicker on cold start than a conventional. So if anything, it works better. The reason you may hear it when switched to a synthetic is that the synthetic isn't as "thick" or viscous as a conventional. That allows the conventional to provide more "cushioning" or "insulation" to the knoise you're experiencing.

_________________


Retired Bonneville Owner and former GM Tech:
2004 Pontiac Bonneville GXP: Black/Ebony *SOLD*

Summer Toys: Combined 827 RWHP / 877lb/ft RWTQ
2004 Pontiac GTO: Impulse Blue Metallic/Black/M6: lots 'o mods, 415 RWHP / 405lb/ft RWTQ!
2006 Cadillac STS-V: Light Platinum Metallic/Light Gray/A6 - Spectre CAI, Magnaflow exhaust, Speed Inc. tune, 412 RWHP / 472lb/ft RWTQ

Daily Drivers:
2019 Chrysler Pacifica Limited: Mommy's new RGC
2015 Chrysler Town & Country Limited Platinum: Kids new RGC
2007 Chrysler Town & Country Limited: Sold to neighbor
2009 Pontiac G8 GT: L76, Sport Red Metallic
2003 Chevrolet Suburban 2500: Doeskin Tan - 8.1L Big Block... new plow truck
1999 Chevrolet Suburban: Sunset Gold Metallic - Daddy's winter beater and plow truck

The synthetic probably drains more into the oil pan than a conventional dino oil which might stay higher up in the engine longer. I look at additives this way, if there's a real benefit to changing the properties of the oil that isn't too expensive, oil companies would already do it to get a leg up on the competition. A good synthetic and filter, with a good change interval is all any daily driver car will ever need. Send it off to blackstone labs for a used oil analysis once or twice to see how things are wearing, they could give you a heads up to any developing problems.

If it comes out black, that means it's cleaning all that gunk out of the engine that dino oil would leave behind.

_________________
Jason Z - Exposed Autos

2001 BMW 330i - Titanium Silver - Sport Package - 3 Pedals - Koni Yellow/H&R Sport
2006 Volkswagen GTI - (gone) Tornado Red - DSG, Stage II~280hp/325tq
1993 Pontiac Bonneville - (gone) Purple Pearl H4U/SLE. Loud

That or running rich.

But the analysis will tell that. And thanks for reminding me, I need to re-order some analysis kits.

_________________


Retired Bonneville Owner and former GM Tech:
2004 Pontiac Bonneville GXP: Black/Ebony *SOLD*

Summer Toys: Combined 827 RWHP / 877lb/ft RWTQ
2004 Pontiac GTO: Impulse Blue Metallic/Black/M6: lots 'o mods, 415 RWHP / 405lb/ft RWTQ!
2006 Cadillac STS-V: Light Platinum Metallic/Light Gray/A6 - Spectre CAI, Magnaflow exhaust, Speed Inc. tune, 412 RWHP / 472lb/ft RWTQ

Daily Drivers:
2019 Chrysler Pacifica Limited: Mommy's new RGC
2015 Chrysler Town & Country Limited Platinum: Kids new RGC
2007 Chrysler Town & Country Limited: Sold to neighbor
2009 Pontiac G8 GT: L76, Sport Red Metallic
2003 Chevrolet Suburban 2500: Doeskin Tan - 8.1L Big Block... new plow truck
1999 Chevrolet Suburban: Sunset Gold Metallic - Daddy's winter beater and plow truck

I filled one this summer... It's finally made it's way to the kitchen this week. Maybe I should finally send it out

_________________
Jason Z - Exposed Autos

2001 BMW 330i - Titanium Silver - Sport Package - 3 Pedals - Koni Yellow/H&R Sport
2006 Volkswagen GTI - (gone) Tornado Red - DSG, Stage II~280hp/325tq
1993 Pontiac Bonneville - (gone) Purple Pearl H4U/SLE. Loud

the knocking did not go away after a few minutes, it was always there whenever i drove the car, thats why after 100 miles it still didnt go away i got nervous and took it out. and my dad said the same thing about synthetic not being as thick, thats why i got the knocking. im still in school so im not making much money just incase any problem occur i cant fix it, until i get a career job im just gonna stick with the gtx semi-synthetic for the time being bc when i replaced the synthetic with conventional the knocking immediatly went away

_________________
1993 SSEI SUPERCHARGED AKA "ANGLE"
180,000 MILES
2000 WATT SYSTEM, ALPINE 7 INCH FLIP OUT TOUCH SCREEN TV, 2 12" SUB WOOFERS IN THE TRUNK
2000 WATT ALPINE AMP
LADIES CALL IT A ROLLING CLUB, I GUESS THE VIBRATIONS GET THEM READY FOR SOME FUN
SSEI= SSEXI
NOW WITH BEAUTIFUL BLUE NEON UNDERGLOW
CERTIFIED EAGLE SCOUT MAY 19 2009
REFERRED TO BY EVERYONE AS JAMES BONDS WEEKEND CAR, REFERRED TO BY ME AS ANGEL

well thats interesting, im certinly going to do that, i want to keep my baby as health as possible, cost is not an issue when it comes to my car, only the best of the best is what she gets



and the car has run rich for quite a while, in the morn when i go to school when its cold out i let the car run for about 5 min to warm up, but i have to back it half out of the garage bc the car runs so rich that the exhaust absolutly reaked and it was so bad it seeped through the garage walls and into the house and then the house reaked of exhaust for a few hours. the car is old so running rich is just part of daily life now, bc its fuel injected not a carborator so i cant adjust anything, just gotta live with it

_________________
1993 SSEI SUPERCHARGED AKA "ANGLE"
180,000 MILES
2000 WATT SYSTEM, ALPINE 7 INCH FLIP OUT TOUCH SCREEN TV, 2 12" SUB WOOFERS IN THE TRUNK
2000 WATT ALPINE AMP
LADIES CALL IT A ROLLING CLUB, I GUESS THE VIBRATIONS GET THEM READY FOR SOME FUN
SSEI= SSEXI
NOW WITH BEAUTIFUL BLUE NEON UNDERGLOW
CERTIFIED EAGLE SCOUT MAY 19 2009
REFERRED TO BY EVERYONE AS JAMES BONDS WEEKEND CAR, REFERRED TO BY ME AS ANGEL

What worries me is that it knocked with synthetic. What is/was your oil pressure? Synthetic of the same weight is just as thick, I assume you used the correct weight synthetic right? And that it came out black confirms your engine has a load of buildup inside.

FWIW I switched the '93 L67 to sythetic ( @ 145k miles ), it was dirty for the first few changes, but it's getting 6k on the OCI now. It never knocked, still doesn't knock, and doesn't leak.

Running rich means you have a sensor or two that need to be diagnosed and replaced. Running rich is not standard operating proceedure for being 'old' or 'high mileage'. That needs to be addressed, your wallet will thank you when you don't have to fill up as often.

_________________
Boost addict


The Fleet:
'93 SSEi - Twincharged + manual Build thread
'97 Camaro - Top swap
'05 STS - V8, AWD, her DD
'92 Trofeo - Fair weather DD
'99 Montana - top swap 3800
'04 Sierra 2500HD - LLY Duramax

Current project:
Something cool, trust me.

Upcoming projects:
'92 Bonneville SSE
'87 LeSabre T-type
'67 LeSabre

Gone to greener pastures:
'84 Sierra Classic - Twin turbo 3800
'97 LeSabre - Top swap

RIP:
'86 LeSabre - pictures
'93 SE - L67

I think I ran like 0-w40 valvoline, I'm not 100% sure on that bc it was so long ago, my dad went with me to get it and he said that was the correct viscosity, was he wrong and that's why it knocked? What is the synthetic equivalent of the standard 10-w30 conventional oil?

_________________
1993 SSEI SUPERCHARGED AKA "ANGLE"
180,000 MILES
2000 WATT SYSTEM, ALPINE 7 INCH FLIP OUT TOUCH SCREEN TV, 2 12" SUB WOOFERS IN THE TRUNK
2000 WATT ALPINE AMP
LADIES CALL IT A ROLLING CLUB, I GUESS THE VIBRATIONS GET THEM READY FOR SOME FUN
SSEI= SSEXI
NOW WITH BEAUTIFUL BLUE NEON UNDERGLOW
CERTIFIED EAGLE SCOUT MAY 19 2009
REFERRED TO BY EVERYONE AS JAMES BONDS WEEKEND CAR, REFERRED TO BY ME AS ANGEL

synthetic 10w30 = regular 10w30

_________________
Boost addict


The Fleet:
'93 SSEi - Twincharged + manual Build thread
'97 Camaro - Top swap
'05 STS - V8, AWD, her DD
'92 Trofeo - Fair weather DD
'99 Montana - top swap 3800
'04 Sierra 2500HD - LLY Duramax

Current project:
Something cool, trust me.

Upcoming projects:
'92 Bonneville SSE
'87 LeSabre T-type
'67 LeSabre

Gone to greener pastures:
'84 Sierra Classic - Twin turbo 3800
'97 LeSabre - Top swap

RIP:
'86 LeSabre - pictures
'93 SE - L67

0W, that's the problem...

_________________


Retired Bonneville Owner and former GM Tech:
2004 Pontiac Bonneville GXP: Black/Ebony *SOLD*

Summer Toys: Combined 827 RWHP / 877lb/ft RWTQ
2004 Pontiac GTO: Impulse Blue Metallic/Black/M6: lots 'o mods, 415 RWHP / 405lb/ft RWTQ!
2006 Cadillac STS-V: Light Platinum Metallic/Light Gray/A6 - Spectre CAI, Magnaflow exhaust, Speed Inc. tune, 412 RWHP / 472lb/ft RWTQ

Daily Drivers:
2019 Chrysler Pacifica Limited: Mommy's new RGC
2015 Chrysler Town & Country Limited Platinum: Kids new RGC
2007 Chrysler Town & Country Limited: Sold to neighbor
2009 Pontiac G8 GT: L76, Sport Red Metallic
2003 Chevrolet Suburban 2500: Doeskin Tan - 8.1L Big Block... new plow truck
1999 Chevrolet Suburban: Sunset Gold Metallic - Daddy's winter beater and plow truck

Really? Well fantastic, that's why it knocked so bad, the top end knocked, and now I see its bc the oil was so thin it wasnt getting to the top end of the engine to lubricate it

_________________
1993 SSEI SUPERCHARGED AKA "ANGLE"
180,000 MILES
2000 WATT SYSTEM, ALPINE 7 INCH FLIP OUT TOUCH SCREEN TV, 2 12" SUB WOOFERS IN THE TRUNK
2000 WATT ALPINE AMP
LADIES CALL IT A ROLLING CLUB, I GUESS THE VIBRATIONS GET THEM READY FOR SOME FUN
SSEI= SSEXI
NOW WITH BEAUTIFUL BLUE NEON UNDERGLOW
CERTIFIED EAGLE SCOUT MAY 19 2009
REFERRED TO BY EVERYONE AS JAMES BONDS WEEKEND CAR, REFERRED TO BY ME AS ANGEL

Oh, a 0W oil is getting pumped up...

Essentially it has no weight or viscosity when it's cold. It pumps like water more or less. So trust me, it's getting pumped up. Problem is, it isn't cushioning anything because if it pumps up like water (when cold), what's it going to going back down? Basically it isn't leaving a coating on the cylinder walls and piston skirts of your engine. This is why you're hearing the noise, especially on an engine with 180k on it. the 3800 isn't a racing motor with super duper tight piston to cylinder tolerances to start with. Add 180k and it's even "looser" of an engine. so you aren't helping by adding an oil, that when cold, has no viscosity to it to hold onto and coat these parts.

All that multi-viscosity reading means is, the first number is the viscosity at a cold temp, while the second number is it's viscosity at full operating temp. In this case, when cold, it had 0 viscosity (or weight), but when up to full operating temp, it won't thin more than a 40W oil would.

_________________


Retired Bonneville Owner and former GM Tech:
2004 Pontiac Bonneville GXP: Black/Ebony *SOLD*

Summer Toys: Combined 827 RWHP / 877lb/ft RWTQ
2004 Pontiac GTO: Impulse Blue Metallic/Black/M6: lots 'o mods, 415 RWHP / 405lb/ft RWTQ!
2006 Cadillac STS-V: Light Platinum Metallic/Light Gray/A6 - Spectre CAI, Magnaflow exhaust, Speed Inc. tune, 412 RWHP / 472lb/ft RWTQ

Daily Drivers:
2019 Chrysler Pacifica Limited: Mommy's new RGC
2015 Chrysler Town & Country Limited Platinum: Kids new RGC
2007 Chrysler Town & Country Limited: Sold to neighbor
2009 Pontiac G8 GT: L76, Sport Red Metallic
2003 Chevrolet Suburban 2500: Doeskin Tan - 8.1L Big Block... new plow truck
1999 Chevrolet Suburban: Sunset Gold Metallic - Daddy's winter beater and plow truck

A 10W-30 oil is 10 weight (thin) when it's cold, and 30 weight when it's warm, because the molecules in it are able to expand when it gets hot. Whether it's synthetic or conventional doesn't matter, you should be running 10W-30, what the car recommends. I guarantee that was your problem.

I run Lucas in my 67 truck along with diesel oil to try and keep it running till I can get around to yanking the motor and doing something with it...

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Bye Bye:

RIP sandrock