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 Post subject: Methanol/water injection
PostPosted: Wed Dec 15, 2010 12:18 am 
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Location: Petersburg, IL
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What little bit I've found on injecting a S/c 3800 has said that's it's pretty hit or miss and hasn't been tried to many times. If anyone has any knowledge on the subject whatsoever it's be great if you could throw it on here. There's a lot to gain from injecting an engine, at least on other applications and it causes me to be curious why the 3800 is any different. Also any info about the best possible setup would be good too.
Thanks,
Derek

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Last edited by Rapp16 on Wed Dec 15, 2010 12:19 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Wed Dec 15, 2010 12:50 am 
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Haven't found a whole lot of info either for our platform besides the "hit or miss" comment. I was also trying to figure out how our setup makes it "not worth" doing. I've read many Cobalt SC guys do this with good results. Only one I know of that runs W/M Injection is 2000SilverBullet and Willwren used to, though I think he still has the setup for cleaning purposes.

I found a fender mounted kit for roughly $200 that I'm looking at getting in the spring. Looking to figure things out on my own.

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PostPosted: Wed Dec 15, 2010 1:18 am 
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Location: Powell River BC - 7 time WCBF Survivor
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The Snow Performance injection kit I use works well but is a little impractical for running on the street. I know some turbo diesel owners that use it effectively but they can have a huge reservoir in their bed that lasts them over a tank of fuel....4 hours. My little two quart tank will only last for about 6 minutes of WOT or 20 minutes of spirited driving. Great for the track and will zero knock up to 16 psi boost. I can get away with a 2.9" pulley on a Gen V if that tells you anything.

Keeps the rotors and top end licky clean as an added bonus.

I added an after SC temp probe and it will drop the temp by 50 F. Not as good an intercooler but I think it's a lot safer.

Been running it for five summers now. Only had to replace the check valve once because I didn't drain it over the winter and it corroded the valve shut.

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PostPosted: Wed Dec 15, 2010 8:17 am 
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I'm the only one that's run it on a Series 1. I've run 3 home-built systems since 2002, and I've found that it's really not worth it for the trouble and time involved. Spend your money on rockers, an intake, and a PCM tune first. You'll be far happier. The results vary, and just aren't up to snuff with what you read about.

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PostPosted: Wed Dec 15, 2010 11:08 am 
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Location: Petersburg, IL
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I'm not planning on installing it on my current '95. I'm hoping to purchase a new Bonneville, 00-03 most likely and that's where I was looking to apply it.

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PostPosted: Wed Dec 15, 2010 2:39 pm 
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Get an intercooler instead. Much better investment. Or other power-adding hard parts. This should never be near the top of your mod list, and certainly never the first thing considered.

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PostPosted: Wed Dec 15, 2010 10:12 pm 
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What is it about an intercooler that is so standout from water/meth injection? A lot of users of injection are die hards and swear by it. It's also very healthy for your engine, thusly prolonging the life of the engine, and adds quite a bit of horsepower when applied correctly. I'm still curious as to why the 3800 isn't as efficient with an injection system.I asked for info not instructions lol.

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1994 Pontiac Bonneville SSE -Black w/ Grey Interior (Parts Car)
1978 Trans Am - 4 spd 400 T-Tops Black exterior (around the rust) with Carmine red cloth interior


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 15, 2010 11:25 pm 
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An intercooler doesn't need refilling every 3 passes at the track...

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 16, 2010 12:09 am 
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Which isn't a problem at the track..........but on the street, yes.
I have a level light that comes on when the tank is 5 minutes from empty that helps so I don't go WOT with an empty tank.
Usually I leave it off and only arm it when I want to play so it's not toooo bad. :roll:

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 16, 2010 12:54 am 
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And a trunk mounted high capacity tank isn't just wishful thinking right?

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1994 Pontiac Bonneville SSE -Black w/ Grey Interior (Parts Car)
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 16, 2010 1:04 am 
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You lose trunk space, and still have to goof around filling, or pulley-ing up w/o it. It's like nitrous. Great when the bottle is full, but it only lasts so long.

I would do a lot of other things before doing W/M. Cam/Rockers, P&P, etc. If I was looking for that 11.999 run and needed one more mod, then I might consider a W/M kit to break the edge.

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 16, 2010 9:39 am 
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On an L67, an intercooler will allow far more power per dollar than any kind of W/M injection. There is no argument, but I just realized you have a Series 1, and there aren't any intercoolers for your car (except one working prototype built by yours truly, currently being redesigned.

That being said, spend your money on rockers and a pulley, and save the rest for your trans rebuild. That's a FAR better investment than water/meth injection, and you can trust me on that. I've played with it for years, and the horsepower return versus money spent is paltry at best.

Minimal horsepower gain and very negligible internal engine benefits do not make this a wise investment for an L67. On other applications, maybe. But not under your hood. And I'm not even factoring in the inconvenience or risk to your motor.

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 04, 2011 5:33 pm 
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I'm curious to explore the claims that an ic is such a good bang for the buck. I have no idea what power gains they're realistically worth, but they're ghastly expensive.

Meth injection may have its drawbacks but I imagine with a progressive boost referenced controller and sufficiant resevoir one could go a while on a fill. Now thatss not to say its a good entry level mod but I've never heard it so wholly discounted as on hear. As the OP, I wondeer why.

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 04, 2011 10:42 pm 
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I of course have always been an advocate of M/W injection but have always cautioned people about its drawbacks. It too is expensive if you do it right like I did. Almost as much as an intercooler set up. Cost me about $1,000 and I did the entire install.
Even with my progressive controller the 1/2 gallon reservoir will only last for 20 minutes of spirited driving or 3 to 4 quarter mile passes running WOT particularly when running 15 psi of boost.

The biggest risk is unknowingly running out of fluid and blowing the engine......even with a low reservoir light like I have (its been known to fail).
The intercooler pump is low pressure high volume whereas the M/W injection pump is high pressure low volume.
Another risk with M/W injection is the possibility of a line connection failing due to high pressure. I know this happens.

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 05, 2011 9:43 am 
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Just to double check my research, what does a fullstack IC go for and what is the omparative power potential? I've considered opening an intercooler thread as well becaue I love the idea and would jump at it if it weren't so expensive.

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 05, 2011 11:01 am 
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A short stack IC is much more affordable, and is easily more efficient and more capable than M/W injection. Water injection CAN be cheaper, but the cheaper you go, the less effective. An IC is a near-zero maintenance item as well.

I've run 3 different home-built versions of WI on Zilla, as well as a prototype IC I built myself. The IC was far and away more power added.

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 05, 2011 11:51 am 
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willwren wrote:
A short stack IC is much more affordable, and is easily more efficient and more capable than M/W injection. Water injection CAN be cheaper, but the cheaper you go, the less effective. An IC is a near-zero maintenance item as well.

I've run 3 different home-built versions of WI on Zilla, as well as a prototype IC I built myself. The IC was far and away more power added.


I want! Stop making me think these thoughts.

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 05, 2011 12:41 pm 
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You're lucky. You can buy. I had to build. The SSIC is a great compromise between performance and budget, particularly for a daily driver.

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 05, 2011 1:38 pm 
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willwren wrote:
You're lucky. You can buy. I had to build. The SSIC is a great compromise between performance and budget, particularly for a daily driver.


The only prices I see on them are over $1000. I saw a wbs full stack for $925. I could do headers and rockers with a pulley for that. Although as a full kit i guess its not so obscene. And it does seem like about the smartest mod I can think of after a cai.

Edit: ZZP ss ic kit is $600. Duh. That's not bad. Could always add a core to it later on as well.

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Last edited by yourgrandma on Wed Jan 05, 2011 3:17 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 05, 2011 9:15 pm 
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All the guys with short stacks say they regret not just getting a full core. Do it once, do it right or don't do it, IMHO.

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