Hello, first post here. Ive dealt with GM's security issues many times but this one has me stumped...I've tried the key relearn,resistor trick (2.2K ohm), multi metering out the wires, I cant figure this one out.

I bought the car as is with a known "security issue", I thought I would be able to breeze though this like I have in the past NOPE, so I have came to ask the Bonneville gods for advice. When I first got the car the security light was flashing with the key in and turned to run, you try and start it and nothing (gauge cluster goes out). After a couple of the good old key relearn trys the security light stopped flashing and remains constant now with the key on. I've replaced the starter switch ( I thought it came with a new PK3 ring, I was wrong), the cable interlock housing was broken anyways. I have a new key module coming. I've checked voltages at the 3 wires at the ignition switch I have 12V at the white wire and 5V at the yellow wire and the black wire I have continuity to ground. I've tried finding the corresponding wires at the BCM with out luck to try the resistor trick down there in case I have a short or bad connection. Oh did I mention that the people I got it from have done a hack job on the wiring trying to figure this out also, they ran a jumper from the positive battery terminal to the rear panel and had the power for the front panel connected to the negative on the battery, car still how powered up but some of the modules werent showing up on my scanner. After correcting this the modules came back online. I'm about to light this thing on fire and watch it burn...Please help!

hi, welcome to the club!!

our cars use the pass key system not pass lock.

https://ricksfreeautorepairadvice.com/p ... -passlock/

_________________
poverty forces one to do unorthodox things

2000 SSEi
past rides:
1996 SSEi
1992 GTP
1987 Grand Am

Thanks for the response, I tried that procedure already, the security light never goes off to indicate that the key was accepted to be able to proceed to the next key cycle.

I tried the reset procedure however the security light never goes out to tell me the key was accepted to be able to move onto the next key cycle.

The most scary problem you've mentioned here is the previous owner having competed some "creative" wiring changes to try and work around the underlying problem. This could be a lot of work, depending on what they've done. First and foremost, you need to somehow get rid of all this stuff the last owner did and return all the wiring to the factory configuration. Nothing good comes from making changes to the electrical environment of these cars. When a problem occurs, the problem needs to be identified and fixed. I could go on all day about why this is so important. This generation of vehicle is a huge advancement in technology compared with prior vehicles.

Once everything is back to factory configuration, you need to scan the vehicle for codes. The problem is, your parts store scan tool won't do the job. Vehicles of this vintage work well beyond the basic OBD-II code set and use a lot of proprietary codes that generic scanners simply can't pull. You need to get access to something like a Tech2 scan tool.

After you have all the DTC's, then (and really only then) would it be possible to even start with something like this. You may get exceptionally lucky by replacing this part you've ordered, but I wouldn't bank on it.

We're of course here to help, but troubleshooting remotely can be very difficult and without you having the right tools, may be impossible. Where are you located?

Do you happen to know if the previous owner mentioned this all started after doing other work on the vehicle?

_________________


Bose Luxury Sound System w/Touch Screen Navigation, Addition of Factory XM, 2005 MY Antenna, OnStar Upgrade (3G),
RainSense Wipers, Backup Camera, '00 Style Door Panel Courtesy Lights, Heated Washer Solvent, 2X Remote Trunk Release,
Turn Signal Mirrors, Center Console Courtesy Lamp, Rear Outboard Heated Seats, PVD Chrome 18" Factory Rims, Upgraded
Carbon Fibre Appearance Interior Trim, Highly Modified Main Body Harness, Instrument Panel, Door, Door Panel & Headliner
Wiring Harnesses, Custom Fuse Box & Tire and Loading Information Decals, Additional Acoustic Insulation

I’m located in se Iowa, it’s not a parts store scanner I can watch the live data and modules and do pass thrus with it...I pulled the codes the other day I’ll do that again. The previous person really didn’t hack the harness up for the security system to bad. They had some of the other wiring janked up. I do have a friend from up the road bringing the latest and greatest snappy scanner over to see if he can find something that me or our scanner is missing. I ordered a new exciter ring thinking that maybe it had went bad.

I have 4 codes, b3055 no transponder modulation/no transponder, b2948 antenna power short to battery,b2955 security system sensor data circuit malfunction, u1000 class 2 data link malfunction

I currently also have a u1064 standard body module serial data circuit code.

Did you clear the codes and scan again? If so, was it the exact same four codes that returned? I expect the body codes remained, but what about the "U" codes?

One item to mention is that it's very common to have DTC's associated with "Loss of communication with...". In most cases, these are insignificant unless an ongoing problem exists. In this case, I'm not convinced the U1000 or U1064 are related to your problem. The dash integration module is responsible for so many different functions that you would notice a lot of other problems in the vehicle if serial communication with it was compromised.

Having a look at these DTC's (specifically the body codes), the problem may be the exciter, VTD module itself, or a wiring problem. Do you have an aftermarket stereo or other non-OEM devices? The reason I ask is that some of this wiring is in close proximity to the radio. Since the 2000-01 uses a flexible printed circuit for instrument panel wiring, it would be relatively easy to damage it in the process of working in or around the radio. Also, if power or other signals were incorrectly tapped during installation, it's certainly possible to have caused such a fault.

B2948 - Antenna Power Short to Battery.

B2955 - Key Code Short to Battery or Open.

U1000 - Conditions for setting this DTC: At least one critical operating parameter has not been associated with an identification number within about five seconds after beginning serial data communication.

U1064 - Loss of communication with the Dash Integration Module.

_________________


Bose Luxury Sound System w/Touch Screen Navigation, Addition of Factory XM, 2005 MY Antenna, OnStar Upgrade (3G),
RainSense Wipers, Backup Camera, '00 Style Door Panel Courtesy Lights, Heated Washer Solvent, 2X Remote Trunk Release,
Turn Signal Mirrors, Center Console Courtesy Lamp, Rear Outboard Heated Seats, PVD Chrome 18" Factory Rims, Upgraded
Carbon Fibre Appearance Interior Trim, Highly Modified Main Body Harness, Instrument Panel, Door, Door Panel & Headliner
Wiring Harnesses, Custom Fuse Box & Tire and Loading Information Decals, Additional Acoustic Insulation

I'll clear the codes and see what returns. I ordered a new AC delco exciter ring, waiting on it to show up. The radio is the factory unit but its laying on the floor of the car not plugged in currently. I have several other messages flashing on the driver info screen, check tire pressure, service traction control, service the security system and service air bags. Also only the drivers door is showing up as open/close and only the drivers window will open, I was using the scanner trying to perform BCM functions like rolling up and down the windows none of the others respond. I'm wondering is something isn't wonky with the BCM. The VTD module is part of the BCM correct...?

One of the most common misconceptions about these vehicles is that there is a (single) BCM. Some GM vehicles have a single module that is responsible for almost every body control function, however the Bonneville is a different beast. There are numerous modules, all connected to the class 2 serial data bus that share responsibility for managing different functions. The list of class 2 serial data bus connected modules (depending on trim level and options) can include:

• Powertrain Control Module (PCM)
• Electronic Brake Control Module (EBCM)
• Remote Function Actuator (RFA) - Keyless Entry/Key Fob System
• Rear Integration Module (RIM)
• Compact Disc Player (CDX) with U1S
• Inflatable Restraint Sensing and Diagnostic Module (SDM)
• Dash Integration Module (DIM)
• Instrument Panel Integration Module (IPM) with CJ2
• Memory Seat Module (MSM) with A45
• Heads Up Display (HUD) with UV6
• Climate Control Panel/Heater AC Control (CCP) with C67
• Radio (IRC)
• Instrument Panel Cluster (IPC)
• Pass-Key® III Vehicle Theft Deterrent Module (VTD)
• Driver Door Module (DDM)

The DIM, RIM and IPM are the three primarily responsible for most body control functions. The VTD system is managed by a separate (physically fairly small) module located in the general vicinity of the key lock. The VTD does work in concert with other modules. For example, the VTD module does not directly control the fuel pump relay.

The DDM is the only door module that is connected to the class 2 serial data bus. The other three doors also have modules, but they connect to the DDM via a simple bus interface (SBI) which is used as a gateway to the rest of the data bus.

If you are having difficulties with the other doors (except the driver's door) such as windows, door locks, does not indicate on the instrument cluster if the other doors are open/closed, the fault probably lies with the SBI. There is a splice under the driver's seat (below the carpet) that connects the SBI line of all four door modules. It is well known to corrode from moisture and/or water intrusion into the floor area. It's typically a simple fix and will usually resolve some of what you're describing. Check out the link below for many of the common Bonneville problems. Look under the section "Interior -> Passenger Front and Both Rear Door Windows & Locks Don't Work". Details about where and how to fix the problem is there.

2000-2005-other-than-gxp/topic25362.html

The tire pressure function is managed by the EBCM. The tire pressure system in these cars is quite a bit different than the TPMS used in newer vehicles. The EBCM monitors tire rotation. If it detects one wheel turning much faster or slower than the other three, it knows the outside diameter of that tire is out of proportion compared with the others. An underinflated tire will turn faster than one correctly inflated and likewise, an overinflated tire will turn slower. This error can result from an under or over inflated tire, or a wheel and tire that do not match the others because of size mismatching. Check your tire pressures, tire sizes and try resetting the system using the DIC controls.

The airbag problem will require further investigation. Is there a DTC? A friend of mine had a 2002 SE with an airbag problem. After I verified that the fuse was good, checked for power at the connector and ensured it was physically connected to the class 2 serial data bus, I determined the module was faulty (because I couldn't connect to it with my Tech2). I also had a "Lost Communication with the SDM" DTC.

If you haven't already, check all your fuses. I would also recommend that you use the scan tool and try to look at the data info/set for every class 2 connected module in the car. If you can't connect and communicate with each of the modules, the most likely causes will be a blown fuse or a wiring fault of the class 2 serial data bus. This will certainly help you know where you stand with your data bus communications. This can affect many of the problems you've identified.

One note to mention is that even many higher end scan tools can't pull codes from the SDM and/or EBCM. The best test to see if yours is capable is if you can select it from the list and look at the data. If you can't, you may be missing some of the DTC's.

Edit: Added last paragraph.

_________________


Bose Luxury Sound System w/Touch Screen Navigation, Addition of Factory XM, 2005 MY Antenna, OnStar Upgrade (3G),
RainSense Wipers, Backup Camera, '00 Style Door Panel Courtesy Lights, Heated Washer Solvent, 2X Remote Trunk Release,
Turn Signal Mirrors, Center Console Courtesy Lamp, Rear Outboard Heated Seats, PVD Chrome 18" Factory Rims, Upgraded
Carbon Fibre Appearance Interior Trim, Highly Modified Main Body Harness, Instrument Panel, Door, Door Panel & Headliner
Wiring Harnesses, Custom Fuse Box & Tire and Loading Information Decals, Additional Acoustic Insulation

Thanks for the info, this car was intended to my beater with a heater (my compund turbo'd cummins doesnt make for great MPG, unless you count smiles per mile), (the cars not in great condition) it is proving to be a worthy foe. I'll do some digging around in the dash for the VTD module, If I remember correctly its located to the LH side of the radio somewhere in the dash. I'll tinker with the scanner tonight and see what I can come up with.

This is what you're looking for. These are photos from my 2004, but I don't believe they have changed from your model year.

_________________


Bose Luxury Sound System w/Touch Screen Navigation, Addition of Factory XM, 2005 MY Antenna, OnStar Upgrade (3G),
RainSense Wipers, Backup Camera, '00 Style Door Panel Courtesy Lights, Heated Washer Solvent, 2X Remote Trunk Release,
Turn Signal Mirrors, Center Console Courtesy Lamp, Rear Outboard Heated Seats, PVD Chrome 18" Factory Rims, Upgraded
Carbon Fibre Appearance Interior Trim, Highly Modified Main Body Harness, Instrument Panel, Door, Door Panel & Headliner
Wiring Harnesses, Custom Fuse Box & Tire and Loading Information Decals, Additional Acoustic Insulation

I cleared the codes and the b3055 came back.

When I go in with the scanner and look at the data it states that starter relay status is “off” and VTD states “no coded key”...

How many keys did you get with the vehicle? If you have another key and haven't already, try it. Does the plastic head of the key you're using appear damaged, and just to confirm, does the key have PK3 stamped into the metal portion of the key?

There are a few possibilities. There could still be a fault with your system, but it may also be (if your key is okay) that someone tried and failed to relearn one or more keys assuming this was part of this ongoing issue. One of the first diagnostic steps is to try another key. If you don't have one, you could try and relearn the one you have, but if the key is bad, you may not be able to go any further until you have a new PK3 key cut and learned.

Conditions for running the DTC:
The ignition switch must be ON. The theft deterrent control module cannot have DTC B1327 set as a current DTC.

Conditions for setting this DTC:
The theft deterrent control module is unable to measure the ignition key transponder value. This may be due to a damaged or missing transponder, a non Passkey III (PK3) key, or a damaged exciter.

Actions taken when the DTC sets:
• The theft deterrent control module sends a class 2 message containing a disable password to the powertrain control module (PCM).
• The vehicle will not start.
• The theft deterrent control module sends a class 2 message to the instrument cluster to illuminate the SECURITY indicator on steady.

Other information:
The possibility is unlikely that more than one key will be defective. If all keys do not work, the theft deterrent control module must be malfunctioning.

_________________


Bose Luxury Sound System w/Touch Screen Navigation, Addition of Factory XM, 2005 MY Antenna, OnStar Upgrade (3G),
RainSense Wipers, Backup Camera, '00 Style Door Panel Courtesy Lights, Heated Washer Solvent, 2X Remote Trunk Release,
Turn Signal Mirrors, Center Console Courtesy Lamp, Rear Outboard Heated Seats, PVD Chrome 18" Factory Rims, Upgraded
Carbon Fibre Appearance Interior Trim, Highly Modified Main Body Harness, Instrument Panel, Door, Door Panel & Headliner
Wiring Harnesses, Custom Fuse Box & Tire and Loading Information Decals, Additional Acoustic Insulation

Sadly I only got 1 key with it (black head) and it does have pk3 stamped in it. I ordered a new exciter ring I haven’t gotten it.

If your only CURRENT code is B3055, I would try a relearn. You've really got nothing to lose if you can't start the car anyway.

_________________


Bose Luxury Sound System w/Touch Screen Navigation, Addition of Factory XM, 2005 MY Antenna, OnStar Upgrade (3G),
RainSense Wipers, Backup Camera, '00 Style Door Panel Courtesy Lights, Heated Washer Solvent, 2X Remote Trunk Release,
Turn Signal Mirrors, Center Console Courtesy Lamp, Rear Outboard Heated Seats, PVD Chrome 18" Factory Rims, Upgraded
Carbon Fibre Appearance Interior Trim, Highly Modified Main Body Harness, Instrument Panel, Door, Door Panel & Headliner
Wiring Harnesses, Custom Fuse Box & Tire and Loading Information Decals, Additional Acoustic Insulation

If the relearn you’re talking about is the 3 10 minute cycles...it hasn’t worked yet.

Yes, that's the one. What error or problem are you getting when you try? Following the timing outlined in the procedure is important. If you wait to long in between, it'll timeout and fail.

_________________


Bose Luxury Sound System w/Touch Screen Navigation, Addition of Factory XM, 2005 MY Antenna, OnStar Upgrade (3G),
RainSense Wipers, Backup Camera, '00 Style Door Panel Courtesy Lights, Heated Washer Solvent, 2X Remote Trunk Release,
Turn Signal Mirrors, Center Console Courtesy Lamp, Rear Outboard Heated Seats, PVD Chrome 18" Factory Rims, Upgraded
Carbon Fibre Appearance Interior Trim, Highly Modified Main Body Harness, Instrument Panel, Door, Door Panel & Headliner
Wiring Harnesses, Custom Fuse Box & Tire and Loading Information Decals, Additional Acoustic Insulation