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PostPosted: Wed Oct 04, 2017 8:14 pm 
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I just wanted to check here before I replace parts I've already replaced.

Issue #1: Blower motor wires getting hot

This starts to result in actually melting the housing of the wire and opening the socket so that the blower starts to cut in and out. So far I've replaced the blower motor twice and the HVAC block next to it once. Seems to be high resistance somewhere. Used to ramp up on the mutimeter correctly, but now it ramps 12.02, 12.08, 12.14, 12.18, 12.23 where it was 2V, 5V, 8V 10V 12V approximately.

Issue #2: Driver's power window motor stops working

I've also replaced the motor twice. And the driver's switch for the front passenger side stopped working as well. Thinking it might be the door control module, but all the voltage checks out on the multimeter. I'm wondering if a similar issue to the blower motor isn't happening.

Issue #3: The reverse mirror adjustment sometimes doesn't return

Honestly, I'm not thinking this is part of the problem, but just mentioning it just in case. When I put it in reverse, the mirror shows the rear wheel correctly. However, it won't return. Sometimes it will slowly return in a jerking motion as I jiggle the gear shifter.

Background: Someone did a real butcher job inserting 120V plugs into the console and wiring it directly to the battery. However, after I tore the carpet out, I noticed it was all cut and nothing was part of the system, so ruled that out. However, the same butcher tapped into wires for a sound system that used to be part of the car. I've removed the splices and soldered where I could to get rid of open ended wires that had been cut.

Anyone know off-hand if these are related, or am I just unlucky when it comes to power modules and blower motors?

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 05, 2017 1:05 pm 
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1) Does 00+ have a blower control module that is more or less a resistor?

Have you checked out the common grounds?

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 05, 2017 1:37 pm 
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J Wikoff wrote:
1) Does 00+ have a blower control module that is more or less a resistor?

Have you checked out the common grounds?


Yes and yes.

The blower control module I replace with is used... maybe I should try new. It worked good for a while though. Still works, just makes the wires hot between the control module and the blower.

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PostPosted: Fri Oct 06, 2017 8:12 am 
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YOUR MIRROR, is stuttering cause the thread within the adjustment is damaged - mine is like that for one position after I hit the side of garage. you can gently move it to position by hand - you will hear the threads skipping.

do the wires from module to blower look original - maybe the PO messed with them.
does the relay for blower get hot also, is it the correct value?|

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PostPosted: Fri Oct 06, 2017 11:16 pm 
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96 SSEi wrote:
YOUR MIRROR, is stuttering cause the thread within the adjustment is damaged - mine is like that for one position after I hit the side of garage. you can gently move it to position by hand - you will hear the threads skipping

There is always a possibility of a problem with the mechanism, but the adjuster is specifically designed to allow for movement if too much manual force is applied to the glass. In this case, clicking/skipping is perfectly normal. This needs to be investigated further for a definitive conclusion.

The blower is not controlled by a relay. This is a solid state device that duty cycles the motor based on a pulse width modulated signal from the Instrument Panel Module (Dual Climate Control Only). I would be looking toward a poor connection where the motor plugs into the control module. If the contacts are loose, or there is any oxidation or corrosion, this will result in heat.

If the motor was ever replaced with a cheap knock-off, the wire may not be a large enough gauge or the connector they used may be substandard. There is also the possibility that you may have a collection of leaves or debris in or around the fan. If I'm not mistaken, one side of the blower control module is open to that cavity and air flow is used to provide some module cooling. I'm not sure, based on what you're describing, that this would be my first conclusion. It may still be worth looking into.

TrueWildMan wrote:
Someone did a real butcher job inserting 120V plugs into the console and wiring it directly to the battery. However, after I tore the carpet out, I noticed it was all cut and nothing was part of the system, so ruled that out. However, the same butcher tapped into wires for a sound system that used to be part of the car. I've removed the splices and soldered where I could to get rid of open ended wires that had been cut.

Reason #47 why I won't buy a car that has been modified with aftermarket accessories.

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 14, 2017 9:23 am 
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To close this out, I found the problem. Coincidentally, both connections had the same problem but are unrelated.

When I pulled the window motor out, I took it apart, inspected everything, greased a few things, put it back together. Started working again, then stopped. So, on a whim, I put my finger under the wires at the connector and lifted slightly. Voila. Loose connection. I unplugged it and noted that the female connector had come open slightly. I closed both for a tight connection and no more intermittent function.

Same condition was found at the connector above the control module. While the wire from the module to the fan was getting hot, the connections there are good. The connection to the control module was not. Tightened that up, and so far so good.

I suppose age and vibration can open those up a bit. OR, the previous owner messed with them and didn't realize he opened them up. Probably the latter...

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