Hello guys.

I have a nice 2000 SLE that is suffering some electrical woes. It appears to have a multiple source battery drain of 1.024 amperes. Roughly half of this was found in circuit 21 (audio). The other half may be more troublesome. Fuse 29 (IGN switch) +/-0.23 amps, fuse 30 (IP) 0.07 amps, and fuse 37 (HVAC BATT) +/-0.23 amps. Is there any chance these could be related? Any knowledge of similar experiences and solutions will be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.

Are you aware that connecting the battery wakes up various modules throughout the car?

You have to wait a while for the modules to return to sleep mode--during which they draw less power.
Not exactly sure how long that takes on our Bonnies. Seem to recall 1/2 hour, though.
You radio or amp might actually be the sole issue.
This thread contains the location of various modules, plus other info
http://www.pontiacbonnevilleclub.com/forum/post407735.html?hilit=modules%20draw#p407735
http://www.aa1car.com/library/battery_runs_down.htm simply has helpful advice on hunting down the problem.

I don't know whether or not the various power drains can be related.
You can sign up on Autozone's website to get access to their repair database which includes various schematics.

If you haven't already, check out this extremely helpful thread http://www.pontiacbonnevilleclub.com/forum/2000-2005-other-than-gxp/topic25362.html

Thanks Mike.

I admit, the first time I checked the drainage it was shortly after disconnecting the battery. However later I let the car sit for approximately four hours with the windows down, then crawled in through a window and repeated my check, with very similar results. The drain was still around 1 amp. There is still a chance I could be doing something incorrectly. I will certainly check those links you left for me. It would really be nice to narrow this down to one or two circuits. Thanks again.

When you reconnect the battery, it awakens modules, so you will have some drain, even climbing in through the window. (1st link had a list of modules).
Something like this may help https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00RGN5UAY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1
If the battery keeps going dead, you might consider getting it checked out to be sure you're not chasing a ghost.
One thing that can drain the battery is a bad alternator diode.
The battery will charge when the car runs but the bad diode discharges the battery when it's off.
Disconnecting the alternator and seeing if the problem goes away confirms the problem--or disproves it.

Hey Mike, thanks again. I ordered the drain tester. I am currently (pun intended) working out of state, but will be looking into this further later in the week.

Hello Mike, and everyone.

I have good news about my Bonneville's voltage drain. Patience paid off for me as I continued to read posts here and on the GMforum, which led me to suspect the rear integration module as Bonnie enemy number one regarding my initial problems of no power door locks or interior lighting. A fruitful trip to pull-a-part yielded a replacement module which fixed those things, along with my back-up lights, trunk light, rear defroster, and keyless entry! I had no idea whether this would have any effect on the battery drain, but checking with the multimeter/drain tester combo indicated almost no draw. After working out of state for a week, I returned to find the car would start without hesitation!

I did find one other issue I had not stumbled into yet due to the hot weather of late. I have no real heat from either driver or passenger zone even when I crank the knobs to 90 degrees. There is some modulation of temperature from really cold at 60, to mild at 90. I am initially suspect of a faulty interior temperature sensor, due to having some variance in temp, and no difference in action from driver to passenger zones. We shall see.

Moving on to a primarily cosmetic issue, (which I know I need to copy and re-post as such), I may have a repair for deteriorating outer window mouldings that could be a new one. I just applied my "fix" this afternoon, so I won't yet tout it as a success. However, I like the resulting appearance better than what I had, and I have some confidence in a measure of longevity. The whole of the story is a low volatile black silicone capable of withstanding 800 degrees. I was just going to apply it where I had some shrinkage separation on the ends of the mouldings. Upon noticing the appearance where I had smeared some across the moulding, I decided to throw caution to the wind and apply it to the length of the moulding. I first smeared just enough to cover the area with my finger, (in a latex glove), then used a flexible piece of thin plastic to mimic the moulding profile, and proceeded to screed the surface end to end in one smooth motion as best I could. There was excess to be cleaned from both edges along the way, but it was not overly messy or difficult. I will judge it tomorrow, and figure out how to post picture if I believe it will be beneficial.

Thanks for reporting back with the solution.
It sounds like the RIM was never shutting off.
Nice that you resolved a few problems with just one part.

Posting the fixes helps others to get their issues resolved.

Poor or no heat can be caused by a number of things.
First would be if the coolant level is low.
One thing you should be aware of is that in our cars, aside from external coolant leaks, the lower intake manifold gaskets and upper intake manifold go bad and leak coolant into the crankcase or cylinders where it should never be. Gasket and plenum (plastic upper intake) replacements solve the problem.

A stuck open thermostat will cause the engine to never fully warm up.
Heater cores can become clogged or restricted over time.
The blend door actuator is a likely suspect.
http://www.pontiacbonnevilleclub.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=18&t=5823&p=59120 has pics and info
Of course it would be a good idea to check for any blown fuses.

Read through this "sticky" thread for answers to many of the problems found on our cars http://www.pontiacbonnevilleclub.com/forum/2000-2005-other-than-gxp/topic25362.html

Do you think it would be good at this point to get the car to diagnostics to determine the HVAC temp issue? Again, there is some adjustment in the temperature range, just not enough, both left and right side. I am assuming there are separate actuators, and that both are functioning at least somewhat, and there are no clicking noises on adjustment. The radiator, hoses, and cylinder heads are new on this car, and all seems well in that regard. 195 degrees indicated water temp.
Ah, this brings up another question. I have green coolant as well. I would believe all the old coolant, other than in the block water jackets, to be gone. I should have all new intake gaskets, since the seller had the cylinder heads replaced. This was due apparently to a bad radiator, which led to a cracked head. With all this new stuff, conventional green coolant should be the way to go, right?

You can get a glimpse of the intake gaskets by looking near the thermostat. If the gasket is silver color then the lower intake manifold gaskets are new.
The green antifreeze is fine, as long as it's the type that can be mixed with any type of antifreeze.

Since it's such a common problem, I'd try bleeding air out of the cooling system before paying for diagnostics.

The factory service manual states to bleed the system as follows:
1)Fill radiator to base of filler neck.
Wait 2 minutes, then add, as needed.

2)Install pressure cap with arrows facing coolant overflow reservoir tube.

3)Put heater and AC controls in any position except Max and the temperature at the highest setting.

4)Start engine and allow to idle until the hose from radiator to water pump is hot.

5)Cycle engine speed up to 3000 RPM and back down about 5 times.
Slowly open the bleed valve for approximately 15 seconds to expel any trapped air.

6)Close bleed valve and shut car off.
When cooled to ambient temps, ensure that both the reservoir and the radiator are at proper levels.

With the car warmed up, I would also make sure that the heater hoses are both about the same temperature, which should be hot---a laser type thermometer will save your fingers from burns.
If one hose is hot and the other is just warm, there's a blockage in the heater core.
Backflushing the heater core will very often remove the blockage and restore your heat.
You can check to see if any critters have built a nest inside the heaterbox which would prevent the blend door from closing off the airflow to the evaporator.
The final thing to check is the fuses and relays.
There are a number of HVAC fuses and relays including at least 1 in the underhood fuse box.