I would not add any more refrigerant at this point, because you run the risk of overcharging. If the compressor is running, and you bring the engine up to about 2000 to 2500 rpm, and it stays running and doesn't cycle excessively, than it seems that it believes the pressures are okay. You may have to bite the bullet and take it to a pro.

Other questions that come to mind, do the cooling fans run when the compressor is running? Do they run strong? Is there anything piled on the condenser on the front? Leaves? Small dogs? Are the fins nice and straight, or are a bunch of them smashed so as to prevent air flow between them? Have you taken the top radiator support off and looked between the radiator and the condenser to make sure there is not a bunch of crap in there? Most of these suggestions would also affect running temp of the car too, so any information is helpful.

_________________
~Randall~


1993 Buick Park Avenue - 197k - Some odds and ends done - Simply won't die
1994 Buick Regal - 78k - Bone stock - Always ready for a good kicking
1990 Oldsmobile 88 - Gone to a better place

from your observations, it looks like your system is functioning normally (except for the lack of cold air). so at this point i would concentrate on determining whether the system is properly charged. if you don't have gauges, the only thing i can suggest is to get another can of freon and recharge. if you can get access to to gauges, we can tell you what your lo and hi pressures should be for a properly charged system.

again, no offense, but i would like you to be sure the compressor clutch is engaging. when you look down on the ac compressor you obviously see the belt driven pulley rotating but do you see the interior of the clutch assembly rotating. i just went thru an experience with my 96 that was charged but i kept thinking it needed more freon because the clutch was not engaging. turned out that there is a transducer on the rear of the compressor that senses pressure and will not let the clutch engage if pressure is too hi or too lo. transducer was faulty as charge was ok.

report back on the two above suggestions and we will continue to try and help.

edit: there is still a possibility that the airmix actuator is faulty. the nylon gear that drives the airmix door usually cracks around the drive shaft of the motor and can slip and cause lost movement. sorry to be so wishy washy but in your case you might just have to replace parts as a trouble shooting effort. might see what a dealer or an ac repair shop thinks.

i was reviewing your posts and noted that the freon lines entering the firewall were hot and cold as they should be so apparently compressor clutch would have to be engaging. so that would leave proper charge as the only other possibility.

well just wrote a note went to the FAQ to see how I can attach a photo (can't give a url to my machine)
and wiped out my note. Fantastic.
I have a large hole in the firewall, yellow insulation showing (glove box side area).
There is a small hole there too looks like for a tube etc. Any possibility that this could be drawing in warm air?
Might this have anything to do with anything?
Haven't teken the time to try thr recharge yet. Thanks

it is not uncommon for the plastic firewall to crack and fall away from the plenum area. try a temporary seal of heavy duty aluminum foil and tape. my 96 bonn has had firewall deterioration. i sealed it as described in prior sentence and have had no problems for several years. the insulation behind the plastic firewall was not disturbed in my case so if yours is torn or has been tampered with, you may have another situation. if your insulation is not disturbed, you probably still have another problem. i saw no change in performance of AC just because plastic fell away. my seal was intended to keep out water and to maintain efficiency of the AC. i don't know what the hole/tube might be.

hello again all,
a few leaves at the bottom of the radiator area. Would think that is ok. radiator fins ok.
condenser - When I ran it last time, it appeared fine. I did not see it cycle on and off. It stayed on. How long would a "cycle" last? Dependent on outside temp, other factors I guess etc? Bought a can of refrigerant and again it registered blue, which is ok. I could not apply the can contents as charge is ok. While I was doing that, I heard a small clunking, I believe coming from the condenser, like somebody tapping on the case with a tool or something else. Not real loud, just there. After a moment it stopped though. Have not replicated that since then. As that was a few days ago, at his time I can't remember if I heard that noise while trying to add refrigerant or afterward or both. Where are the vacuum hoses referred to earlier? Since I'm getting airflow, I would think they're ok but am willing to check anything. Also, reference the transducer on the back of the condenser mentioned earlier: I do see two wires one front one back both are attached, jiggled for the heck of it. A/c seems cool but it's only 69 degs today so...Am still wondering about the small hole (sure looks like a tube should connect there) in the yellow firewall insulation. Thanks for any info. I'd hate to go to a shop but might have to. Gotta be close though. I think (hope) that I have covered all that was previously mentioned.

regret that we have been unable to help so far. am trying to digest your latest info. i have to conclude from your latest charging effort (gauge shows blue, and freon will not flow from can) that your charge seems ok. something still bothers me tho. theoretically, if your compressor is operating properly, it should have kept sucking freon until hi pressure limit was exceeded. so i am left with doubt that the compresor is either not operating properly or the clutch is not engaging. just to give reassurance, get someone to help, start car and set AC for max cooling. have your assistant turn AC off. you should hear/see clutch disengage. then turn AC on. you should hear a definite click and see when clutch engages. sorry if this seems repetitive but it will help in deciding what else to check.

dirty evap core? mine was filthy (never cleaned) and it blew lukewarm A\C...also did crappy heat.... cleaned it... hot heat, icy cold A\C....

_________________

Pics | Custom Front Lip Mod | Tint | 55w HID Hi+Lo

The compressor would cycle at most every 10 seconds. When you rev the engine up to 2500, it should do it within 10 seconds if it is going to do it. At this point, we are just guessing, and I would recommend taking it in to an A/C specialist to see what the issue is. I hate to admit defeat, but I am.

_________________
~Randall~


1993 Buick Park Avenue - 197k - Some odds and ends done - Simply won't die
1994 Buick Regal - 78k - Bone stock - Always ready for a good kicking
1990 Oldsmobile 88 - Gone to a better place

I think we are at the cusp of the solution. I need to look at it later. (the condenser). When I watched it before, it never cut off. It was always on. It does/did stop when I turned the A/C off and continued when I turned it on but I never saw the condenser stop/start on it's own while I was standing in front of car watching it.

No, it should run steady. The cycling would be indicating a possible issue. Steady is good. And are you referring to the condenser <the thing in front of the radiator> or the compressor <the turning thing on the engine>?

_________________
~Randall~


1993 Buick Park Avenue - 197k - Some odds and ends done - Simply won't die
1994 Buick Regal - 78k - Bone stock - Always ready for a good kicking
1990 Oldsmobile 88 - Gone to a better place

great, I hope my terms mixup is not part of the problem.
The A/C unit behind the radiator - condenser or compressor?
Whatever it is, that is always turning when I turn on the A/C. It stops when I turn it off.

And that is fine. The unit that is turning is the compressor. The unit that sets on the very front of the car, just in front of the radiator, is the condenser. But I knew what you were saying, and my recommendation still holds true. My mom's Taurus has the same issue, and we have no idea why.

_________________
~Randall~


1993 Buick Park Avenue - 197k - Some odds and ends done - Simply won't die
1994 Buick Regal - 78k - Bone stock - Always ready for a good kicking
1990 Oldsmobile 88 - Gone to a better place

it seems that your compressor is operating normally and that your charge is ok based on the "blue" indication of your charging apparatus and that you see that the compressor clutch is engaging and staying engaged. so if you want to continue troubleshooting try following:

1. seal up exposed insulation around glove box area.

2. install the "redneck" fix to determine if your airmix actuator is operating properly. there are instructions for installing fix in this forum but basically you pop the rod from the airmix actuator motor loose from the airmix door. bend or otherwise fabricate a rod (such as coat hanger) to attach to airmix door. this way you can positively move the airmix door from extreme "hot" to extreme "cold" position.

there is a possibility that some other more complex problem exists within your system. i think most of us replying to your post were assuming that your problem is may be typical of most bonnie problems of your era such as freon level, airmix actuator and blower motor control module problems.

there is a silver lining to chasing various aspects of a system problem. you get to know your system inside and out. my philosophy is "as a last resort i can always take it to a dealer". i will admit that on a few occasions it would have been cheaper and the problem would have been solved sooner. so i guess how much longer you will be willing to do-it-yourself (with our sometimes questiionable troubleshooting advice) depends upon your max frustsration level. i think most of us enjoy the challenge of trying to solve a long distant problem but we don't intend for our help to be detrimental and lead you in circles.

I appreciate the continuing responses.
Couple things I need to clear up.
I was interchanging terms. condenser and compressor. Know the diifference just ...boing.
Air isn't cold no matter what. Hot no problem.
Flow is no problem even thoguh driver side feels a tad cooler. not cool. cooler than glove box side.
I can see the bar go from left to right as I increase temp.
It appears bar moves a good 2-3 inches. I only estimate because I can see threaded bolt through left hole glovebox and
when it stops I can see through the hole to the right - a circle. Appears to be moving 2-3 inches - estimate. Can anybody attest to seeing it move more perhaps?
Regarding compressor cycling. - I never see it (clutch?) turn off unless I turn off at dash. Should it cycle on/off? I tried 2500 rpm (no assistant) but didn't feel it go off.
Then there's the mention of transducer which...not sure what to do there.
Anyhow, will run through notes again. See if anything stirs.
All Good, except a little warm driving home from work.

Your compressor staying on and not cycling is perfect, just fine!

_________________
~Randall~


1993 Buick Park Avenue - 197k - Some odds and ends done - Simply won't die
1994 Buick Regal - 78k - Bone stock - Always ready for a good kicking
1990 Oldsmobile 88 - Gone to a better place

sorry, i can't say if your airmix actuator is moving to both extremes but it seems ok. typical failure would result in erratic movement or maybe no movement (drive gear usually cracks and slips on the motor drive shaft). so we now think that charge is ok, airmix actuator is ok and compressor is operating normally.

since your heat mode is ok, one other possibility as suggested by a member in a previous post, is the evaporator needs to be cleaned. there is a link for that procedure in techinfo.

regarding the pressure transducer, since your compressor clutch is staying engaged, it would have to be ok. it detects extreme low and extreme high pressure and will not allow to compressor to operate if limits are exceeded.

edit: you might want to seal up exposed hole in insulation if you did not already. need to eliminate as many loose strings as possible. also, if you want to be 100% positive that your airmix door is moving to cold extreme and since you are only a few steps from doing so, pop the rod from airmix actuator loose from the airmix door. use long screwdriver or such to gently move airmix door to extreme left.

Good Morning Gentlemen,
It appears that we have success. Over the weekend, I taped up the firewall breakage and cleaned out the evaporator. Checked the a/c, it's still in the blue although on the low side, closer to green (low) than yellw (overcharge). Tried to charge, seemed to take a little. But the A/C seems to be blowing much colder. The real test will be on a scorcher day. So the Bonneville seems much better now. The only problems are that the passenger side seems a little less cold or perhaps less flow which I'm not concerned about. May have always been that way. And the whirring that the a/c system makes when it's on. About two years ago, a guy hit me pretty hard on the right front. Been fixed but ever since then it's had a sort of whirring noise simliar to a mourning dove when I hit the accelerator. Not as high pitched and more mechanical but I can deal with it. Thanks for the patience and guidance. Consider this solutioned.