I'm looking at buying a new-used car and I'm a Pontiac lover at heart. I really like the looks of the 04-05 GXP and am considering seeking one out. I don't want to spend much money on repairs, I'd like to buy it and have a couple good years of no repairs.
Are there things to look for or to avoid? What is considered high mileage and thus expecting repairs soon?
I'd really love to buy one a keep it forever so getting your guys thoughts and experiences.
Thanks

I think the biggest issues with anything with a N* in it, is headgasket/stud issues.

Everything else is trivial crap. Stepper motors in the clusters, front mount, oil leaks, cam cover oil leaks, etc...

_________________


Retired Bonneville Owner and former GM Tech:
2004 Pontiac Bonneville GXP: Black/Ebony *SOLD*

Summer Toys: Combined 827 RWHP / 877lb/ft RWTQ
2004 Pontiac GTO: Impulse Blue Metallic/Black/M6: lots 'o mods, 415 RWHP / 405lb/ft RWTQ!
2006 Cadillac STS-V: Light Platinum Metallic/Light Gray/A6 - Spectre CAI, Magnaflow exhaust, Speed Inc. tune, 412 RWHP / 472lb/ft RWTQ

Daily Drivers:
2015 Chrysler Town & Country Limited Platinum: Mommy's NEW RGC
2007 Chrysler Town & Country Limited: Daddy's beater affectionately called the Rolling Garbage Can or "RGC" for short
2009 Pontiac G8 GT: L76, Sport Red Metallic
2009 Chevrolet Impala SS: LS4 V8, Victory Red
2003 Chevrolet Suburban 2500: Doeskin Tan - new plow truck
1999 Chevrolet Suburban: Sunset Gold Metallic - Daddy's winter beater and plow truck

If you're buying a GXP that has not been re-studded, be prepared to spend the value of the car on the job if you cannot handle it yourself.

_________________
-Car Guy Carl
"Penelope" - 2003 SLE - 218k Miles
"Sydney" - 2000 Honda S2000 - 81k miles

One way to avoid the head bolt/head gasket issues is to get any car from 2005-2011, as their head bolts were from the LS6 V8 Corvette engine.

They started switching the old ones for the LS6 ones around halfway into the 2004 model year, so be weary if you choose to get one from 2004.

_________________

'02 Pontiac Bonneville SE 108,539 miles, N/A, SSEi exhaust system, boat roller mount. Gone, but not forgotten.
'13 Buick Regal GS 74k miles, 270 hp, 295 lb/ft of torque.
(yes, there is a story behind my avatar.)

I thought about selling mine, but just recently had a complete engine reseal done so I've been putting a few miles on it lately and and think eh.... maybe not. Although I should because I have too many cars and I'm running out of room. It's a Crimson red tint/pewter interior southern car with 75k miles, sunroof, heads up and drives like new. In fact, I have every service record dating back to 2005 if anyone wants to compare common issues on these cars and what items that have needed repair or replaced over the years.

But when looking, look for oil leaks. Not an if, but just a matter of time. Small leaks are not much to worry about. However, if you look under the car and see a heavy coating of oil sprayed toward the back, it's likely a oil pan leak or the lower crankcase is leaking. Most owners will sell their car once they realize the cost to fix these leaks because the engine has to come out. This can vary from a couple thousand to 4k+ depending on where you go. However if you live in a small town, you may be hard pressed to find anyone willing or capable of doing this job. so if you see this under the car and the owner doesn't mention it - just walk away because there are probably plenty more items the seller doesn't want you to know.

Also look for signs of water leaks in passenger compartment and trunk under mat, spare tire area etc. Haven't had any issues but others have, either from loose/clogged sunroof drains, door splash shields, trunk gaskets, under spoiler and rear lenses holding water.

Other items that may need replacing in the future if not already done;
Water pump - can be done DIY or $600+ at dealer.
Power steering hoses - age will do it. $200 installed.
Coolant recovery tank - common to leak with age - $60-70 for replacement DIY or $200+ installed.
Throttle position sensors tend to go bad resulting in Jerking, hesitation, surges while driving or erratic idle - $40-60 DIY or $150+ installed.
Wheel hubs - $70-100ea DIY or $3-400 installed
Engine mounts - you could buy a set for $100-$150 or around $225+ to get 1 installed.
Steering knuckle - GM thing. Old TSB says lube and not replace but new knuckles are improved - $150-170 DIY or about $300+ installed.
Steeper motors in gauges as many have mentioned. $150 to have them sent off and repaired.
Driving lights - ground wire issues from getting hot? DIY replace wire or buy better ones.

But then again it depends a lot on the service history, climate and luck. My car has had the steering knuckle replaced under warranty, and wheel hubs cause they don't last long. Did the engine reseal as the lower crankcase started to leak as well as valve covers so just had the whole thing done and everything else I could think of replacing while the engine was out. I have never had any leaks but it's been parked inside for years and not seen much rain. Steeper motors are fine but again, in the garage and some say heat and humidity has a lot to do with it.

The 2005 GXP doesn't escape either. Lots of examples out there with failures in the 2005 year.

_________________
-Car Guy Carl
"Penelope" - 2003 SLE - 218k Miles
"Sydney" - 2000 Honda S2000 - 81k miles

Thanks for the info guys.... Lots to absorb there

Just an FYI though, the GXP was only available for 2004 & 2005. So if one is set on one, you're kinda stuck. I won't lie, I look, simply because I like the car.

_________________


Retired Bonneville Owner and former GM Tech:
2004 Pontiac Bonneville GXP: Black/Ebony *SOLD*

Summer Toys: Combined 827 RWHP / 877lb/ft RWTQ
2004 Pontiac GTO: Impulse Blue Metallic/Black/M6: lots 'o mods, 415 RWHP / 405lb/ft RWTQ!
2006 Cadillac STS-V: Light Platinum Metallic/Light Gray/A6 - Spectre CAI, Magnaflow exhaust, Speed Inc. tune, 412 RWHP / 472lb/ft RWTQ

Daily Drivers:
2015 Chrysler Town & Country Limited Platinum: Mommy's NEW RGC
2007 Chrysler Town & Country Limited: Daddy's beater affectionately called the Rolling Garbage Can or "RGC" for short
2009 Pontiac G8 GT: L76, Sport Red Metallic
2009 Chevrolet Impala SS: LS4 V8, Victory Red
2003 Chevrolet Suburban 2500: Doeskin Tan - new plow truck
1999 Chevrolet Suburban: Sunset Gold Metallic - Daddy's winter beater and plow truck

With only around 2500 GXP's produced in 2005 I wouldn't say there are "lots" of examples of head gasket failure. You could also say the LS4 in Gran Prix GXP's doesn't escape either as there are truly more... "lots"... of examples compared to the Bonneville GXP's. But you would probably have to wade through all the tranny issue search results first as you would also while searching for the reliability of the SC'd 3800 series cars. Fact is, by 2005 Northstar * in general were very reliable with the worst years dating back to the late 90's and early 2000's. Just ask Cadillac owners. In fact, the Cadillac service manager I know says head gasket failures in 2004-2005 were very rare occurrences. But like all things on the internet, most people only report the bad issues they have and repeat it over and over until people start believing it as fact.

I would be more concerned about the cars service history and how it was maintained over anything else.

And in 2005, Northstars had a redesigned block deck making head gasket failure a near non issue. But there are people who overlook things like leaky water pumps, then drive around till the engine overheats only to blame head gasket issues on everything but their own neglect.

Thanks guys!!!! Makes me feel better about getting one.... Very true that usually a post is about something that is wrong and how to fix it or complaining about something so that does skew the actual numbers.