That's exactly the way I'm looking at it too.

The engine was dropped out the bottom last week, and the stud holes are being drilled and tapped as I type this. I decided to let a local garage do the work as I do not have a hoist, and he has done a couple of them previously. It should be ready in a couple of days.

Got the car back today. Everything seems good. It has that unmistakeable growl of a V8, that I have not heard in a car I have owned in many years. The only thing left to do is have the body work done at the gas cap. Thank you Jake at Northstarperformance.com! Their studs kits are with out a doubt the best on the market!

Below are a few pictures.

Awesome! Every time I think I am done with Bonnevilles and ready to move on I look at a GXP and drool

_________________
Ryan

2003 Bonneville SSEi - The Black Mirror SOLD!
2002 Bonneville SE - The Mutt Complete 2004 SLE interior, drivetrain, and body harness swap, ECC swap, HUD swap, black GXP wheels, GXP headlights and tinted tails - SOLD
2003 BMW 540i M Sport, 2001 BMW X5 4.4i, 2010 GMC Acadia, 2017 Grand Design Imagine 3150BH
1982 Cutlass Supreme - The fun one

I now have a few 100 miles on it, and the engine is running perfectly. I also had the rust cut out around the gas cap, and new metal put in. It looks as good as new. I then had the entire car sprayed with Krown rustproofing. That should help it last a few more years.

Well done! Driving a well-sorted, studded Northstar with full peace of mind is really something else. I really miss it.

_________________

Jerry /// Past: 95 SSEi (June 2010 COTM) -- 04 GXP (July 2011 COTM)
91 Honda Civic Wagon DX 2WD (fuelly) -- 208,000km -- 92hp -- Autocross Warrior
09 Lexus LS460 AWD -- 94,000km -- Daily Driver
09 White Hot G8 GT -- 155,000km (fuelly) -- LS3 Cam -- GM LS3 CNC Ported Heads -- Kooks 1 3/4" Long Tube Headers -- Solo Catback Midsection -- Hooker Maxflow Mufflers -- Pat G Tune -- Rotofab Intake -- Tein S-Tech Springs -- GXP FE3 Dampers -- BMR Subframe Cradle Inserts -- BMR Subframe Connectors -- Forgestar F14 Gold 18x9 +40 -- Michelin Pilot Super Sport 245/45/18 -- Maverick Man Carbon Fiber Spoiler

To anyone doing this job with new studs and your engine already has a 100,000 miles or so, and you are thinking about changing the alternator while the engine is out of the car, JUST DO IT! Don't ask me why I say that now....

I would argue that with any GM FWD DOHC setup (aiming my crosshairs at "X" motors here too).

You'd be amazed how many times we'd have something like this in, everything dropped, and then explain to the customer that while their alternator may NEVER go out (which would be a statistical anomaly). At which point we're gonna have to drop all this sh*t again and charge the labor for it, so while we're in there now, do you wanna be pro-active? Even then, we'd still get a "no" 9 times out of 10.

Only or the car to come back in 6 months needing an alternator...

_________________


Retired Bonneville Owner and former GM Tech:
2004 Pontiac Bonneville GXP: Black/Ebony *SOLD*

Summer Toys: Combined 827 RWHP / 877lb/ft RWTQ
2004 Pontiac GTO: Impulse Blue Metallic/Black/M6: lots 'o mods, 415 RWHP / 405lb/ft RWTQ!
2006 Cadillac STS-V: Light Platinum Metallic/Light Gray/A6 - Spectre CAI, Magnaflow exhaust, Speed Inc. tune, 412 RWHP / 472lb/ft RWTQ

Daily Drivers:
2019 Chrysler Pacifica Limited: Mommy's new RGC
2015 Chrysler Town & Country Limited Platinum: Kids new RGC
2007 Chrysler Town & Country Limited: Sold to neighbor
2009 Pontiac G8 GT: L76, Sport Red Metallic
2003 Chevrolet Suburban 2500: Doeskin Tan - 8.1L Big Block... new plow truck
1999 Chevrolet Suburban: Sunset Gold Metallic - Daddy's winter beater and plow truck

It just took me about 5 hours to change it. I thought about it when the engine was out, but though... its going to last a long time yet...

Taking the fan shroud out, allows access to 2 of the 3 bolts. Removing the plastic inner fender on the passenger side, allows access to # 3. Still very tight to get at everything but doable. Hopefully this new one outlasts the car.