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PostPosted: Sun Sep 07, 2014 4:00 pm 
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Year and Trim: 2004 GXP
Hello, I posted this thread earlier...

bonneville-gxp-northstar-powered-cars/topic43711.html

Long story short, the mechanic didn't find any thermostat issues. He swapped the coils to correct the misfire issue. He washed out the fan to get all the excess cotton build up out of there. I thought the issue was fixed.

Well, today I am driving around 60 mph for about 5-10 minutes tops. It's 78 degrees outside. I look down and see my temperature gauge is maxed out at 280 degrees. I pull over and open the hood. I touch the coolant container and it doesn't feel all that hot. I touch the engine and it doesnt feel all that hot. I'm able to squeeze the hose with little resistance.

I go back to start it up and then I see the temperature gauge at this level:

Image

I drive it home around 60-70 mph for another 10ish minutes. I get home and pop the hood, it's definitely warmer and the hose is harder to squeeze.

What gives?? Water pump? Bad temperature gauge? I'm so confused.


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PostPosted: Sun Sep 07, 2014 4:49 pm 
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Bad stepper motor in the cluster. Your car is fine, mechanically speaking.

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PostPosted: Sun Sep 07, 2014 4:54 pm 
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I just brought it in to Valvoline to flush the coolant and even they said the engine was pretty *dang* hot. 107k miles. Thoughts?

Also this is the first coolant flush it's had. We will see if this helps.


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PostPosted: Sun Sep 07, 2014 5:50 pm 
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nos4blood70 wrote:
Bad stepper motor in the cluster. Your car is fine, mechanically speaking.


This. Super common problem. I repair them if you want it fixed.

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PostPosted: Sun Sep 07, 2014 6:09 pm 
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harofreak00 wrote:
nos4blood70 wrote:
Bad stepper motor in the cluster. Your car is fine, mechanically speaking.


This. Super common problem. I repair them if you want it fixed.


Yes, I do...I see you are in MN...how far from the Twin Cities? And what's the price? Lord have mercy on a poor college student...


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PostPosted: Sun Sep 07, 2014 6:44 pm 
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I'm 2.5 hours from the cities, but I repair and ship back the same day I receive it if you mail it. $75 for a repaired cluster with all new stepper motors and all new bulbs.

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PostPosted: Sun Sep 07, 2014 6:50 pm 
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If I'm not mechanical at all (I max out at changing brake pads and oil changes) how hard is it to remove and re-install the cluster?


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PostPosted: Sun Sep 07, 2014 8:58 pm 
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Pretty easy. Pull the dash bezel off, and the cluster comes out with 5 spring clips (no tools).

First remove the fascia from around the instrument panel and radio. There are two plastic rivets going up into the fascia above the instrument cluster. Press the center of the rivets upward (pics 1 & 2) and then carefully pry the rivets out (pic 3).

Image

Pry the trim ring off the ignition switch (pic 4) notice I put electrical tape around the screwdriver blade to avoid marring the trim. Then pull out the 'cubby hole' on the left of the wheel (pic 5). Tilt the wheel all the way down and pull the panel off the dash (pic 6).

Image

Reach behind the right side and disconnect the connector(pic7). Carefully tweek the panel to get it around the wheel and out of the way. It will help to have the wheel tilted down as far as it can go.

Then you have full access to the cluster, which pulls straight out.

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2004 Bonneville GXP | 60k | White Gold Tricoat | custom built supercharged 3800 hot rod | garage queen
1997 Corvette | 55k | Silver Metallic | Z06 wheels | Date-night Hauler/Parts runner
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2002 Ram 1500 Quad Cab Sport | Black| 260k | Official Bonneville Hauler


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 10, 2014 11:41 am 
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If the engine is truly hot, the DIC should tell you.


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 10, 2014 12:27 pm 
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What is also a dead giveaway that it's electrical (be it the bad stepper motor, or bad sensor, etc...), is that it pegs at max which is indicative of infinite resistance, or a short/open.

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