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PostPosted: Tue Feb 25, 2014 1:34 pm 
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Year and Trim: 2005 Bonneville GXP
Hey everyone,

I am new to this site and a new, but proud, owner of a 2005 Bonneville GXP. I received this car as a graduation gift and it only has 35k miles on it. I recently took it in to get two new tires and during the installation and the alignment process, the mechanic pointed out that the wheel bearing on the front, right wheel was loose. He said this could alter the alignment and throw that particular wheel out of alignment. He quoted me at $250 to replace the bearing. I then went to another shop for a different quote and he quoted me at about $300 to install the new bearing. When I asked him about the urgency of replacement, he told me I should do it within the next couple weeks. He told me that if the loose bearing breaks, the entire wheel could fall off.

I was not born yesterday and I know that many mechanics will often times dramatize the situation in order to get the business, so I am inclined to believe that both shops were pulling my leg. However, I know little about this Bonneville and even less about wheel bearings. Is this something I should really be concerned about? I am about to move to a new state and need all the money I can get for the move. So I would rather not spend the $300. On the other hand, I do not want to get to my new place and then have something go terribly wrong with my car. Is this something I can hold off for a few thousand miles, or longer, or should I really be concerned about this? I have not noticed any noises or any major problems with the handling of the vehicle. This car is new to me so I do not know exactly what I should be listening or feeling for, but I have not noticed anything out of the ordinary. Any suggestions, help, or advice would be much appreciated. Thanks!

New Bonneville Enthusiast


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 25, 2014 2:14 pm 
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I'd get it replaced. Are you at all mechanically inclined? It's not that hard to do yourself. I'd recommend you get a Timken bearing, Amazon has good prices on them. Most shops install poor quality (low price) or expensive, medium quality bearings. A Timken (high quality, reasonable price) hub online is around $100, then add labor.

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PostPosted: Tue Feb 25, 2014 2:16 pm 
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Year and Trim: 2004 GTO
00Beast wrote:
I'd get it replaced. Are you at all mechanically inclined? It's not that hard to do yourself. I'd recommend you get a Timken bearing, Amazon has good prices on them. Most shops install poor quality (low price) or expensive, medium quality bearings. A Timken (high quality, reasonable price) hub online is around $100, then add labor.


:withstupid: Ed beat me to it.

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2004 GTO....LS1, 6MT
96 SSEi...September 2010 COTM........GONE
04 GTP comp G.... December 2015 COTM........GONE
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 25, 2014 2:24 pm 
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Joined: Mon May 19, 2008 7:01 pm
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Location: Central Illinois
Year and Trim: 1992 SSE
2009 G8 GT
In the first couple years of owning my Bonne, my ABS started randomly activating during slow stops, so I had it scanned at the dealer and they told me it needed a new wheel bearing (the sensor is built in) and a new ABS controller. I opted to just unplug that bearing/sensor and disable the ABS entirely and the problem went away. Years later (a few months ago) I replaced that bearing just because I was replacing various wearable items in the front suspension, and guess what, full ABS functionality came back. The dealer tried to screw me into buying a $1200 ABS controller. So I feel your pain.

A wheel bearing physically falling apart or failing to rotate is pretty rare. Mostly, they start grinding, and I've known people to drive on grinding bearings for a really long time. I do know one person that had a bearing seize. It was grinding for a while, several months, and one day it was frozen solid when he tried to leave work. It got hot enough while he was driving that something melted and it locked up when it cooled off.

Wheel bearings are less intimidating than they sound to replace. But it takes a few hours if it's really corroded in there. I think the GXP has aluminum knuckles, so they might be pretty easy to remove, relatively. If you can do it yourself, I would if you can hear grinding, or if you jack that wheel up and there is wobble/play by hand.

$250 isn't super awful terrible, if it included a quality bearing, I guess. Though mechanics know how to get them out pretty easily. A bearing is what, $80? Ask yourself, is it worth $150 or whatever, to sit and wait for an hour or two, or spend at least that much time doing it yourself (and eventually realizing that pulling on it is getting you nowhere, and prying is barely fruitful, so you whack it on the side with a hammer and see that every hit moves it out a bit).

The likely true situation here is that you have time to get a bearing yourself, and arrange a free afternoon with some tools, and knock it out, saving you a nice wad of cash. I wouldn't ignore it forever though.

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WHITE WHINE - IT'S INTOXICATING. 1992 SSE Supercharged 236.26 ci (.040 Over)
15.090 at 90.2 MPH on old engine w/ slipping trans & melted O2 sensor - Gen 3 M62 and matching TB, Gen 2 Pully, Zillamotorsports Ported LIM, YT 1.72 Roller Rockers, SII FPR & Injectors, Easy Performance Gen 3 Air/Fuel Calibrator, Hypertech Thermomaster chip w/ 160 Thermo, TransGo Shift Kit, Infinity/Pioneer Speakers and 10" Subs, 1300 watts, 140 amp Alternator, Ricepipe CAI w/ heatshield, Pilot Angel Eye Foglights, Clear Corners, '02 17" Chrome Bent 5's, Magnaflow F-Body Muffler and Hi-flo Cat, McCoy Motorsports Ceramic Coated Ported Exhaust Manifolds, Fan Override, PowerSlot Slotted Rotors.
2009 G8 GT - Sport Red Metallic, loaded, SOLO Axlebacks, Rotofab Intake, Tuned, autodim Trailblazer mirror, removed intake manifold cover, HSV GTS triple gauge pod, two tone red-hot shifter and HSV SuperSport steering wheel, GXP rear sway bar and diffuser


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 25, 2014 3:11 pm 
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Location: CHICAGO
Year and Trim: 2006 STS-V, 2004 GTO, 2009 G8 GT
The bearings on these cars are self contained hub units. They will not (or should not), snap off unless the thing is so far out of lateral alignment in the hub race, OR the bearings are almost seized. However, stranger things happen. I've seen people with bad bearings on any GM FWD vehicle drive them for 50k, howling away with nothing more than poor fuel economy and the noise. The amount of lateral movement shouldn't be so much as to alter alignment enormously, but they are not technically "wrong" on that. Anything that alters your suspension geometry can cause out of alignment issues.

As mentioned above, they're fairly easy, one piece assemblies. Timken makes a pretty solid one. Buy it online and take to reputable shop. Shouldn't take more than an hour for them, and at ~$80/hr labor, figure another $80.

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Retired Bonneville Owner and former GM Tech:
2004 Pontiac Bonneville GXP: Black/Ebony *SOLD*

Summer Toys: Combined 827 RWHP / 877lb/ft RWTQ
2004 Pontiac GTO: Impulse Blue Metallic/Black/M6: lots 'o mods, 415 RWHP / 405lb/ft RWTQ!
2006 Cadillac STS-V: Light Platinum Metallic/Light Gray/A6 - Spectre CAI, Magnaflow exhaust, Speed Inc. tune, 412 RWHP / 472lb/ft RWTQ

Daily Drivers:
2015 Chrysler Town & Country Limited Platinum: Mommy's NEW RGC
2007 Chrysler Town & Country Limited: Daddy's beater affectionately called the Rolling Garbage Can or "RGC" for short
2009 Pontiac G8 GT: L76, Sport Red Metallic
2009 Chevrolet Impala SS: LS4 V8, Victory Red
1999 Chevrolet Suburban: Sunset Gold Metallic - Daddy's winter beater and plow truck


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 25, 2014 11:38 pm 
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Joined: Tue Feb 25, 2014 1:23 pm
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Year and Trim: 2005 Bonneville GXP
Thanks to everyone for the comments and suggestions. I think I will just hold off on it for the moment. Perhaps later down the road, no pun intended, I will buy one online and try to change in myself. Thanks again for the advice!


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 26, 2014 1:06 am 
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Location: CHICAGO
Year and Trim: 2006 STS-V, 2004 GTO, 2009 G8 GT
I don't know that I would wait too long, especially if it does have side to side movement. But you don't need to do it tomorrow if that is what you're concerned about.

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Retired Bonneville Owner and former GM Tech:
2004 Pontiac Bonneville GXP: Black/Ebony *SOLD*

Summer Toys: Combined 827 RWHP / 877lb/ft RWTQ
2004 Pontiac GTO: Impulse Blue Metallic/Black/M6: lots 'o mods, 415 RWHP / 405lb/ft RWTQ!
2006 Cadillac STS-V: Light Platinum Metallic/Light Gray/A6 - Spectre CAI, Magnaflow exhaust, Speed Inc. tune, 412 RWHP / 472lb/ft RWTQ

Daily Drivers:
2015 Chrysler Town & Country Limited Platinum: Mommy's NEW RGC
2007 Chrysler Town & Country Limited: Daddy's beater affectionately called the Rolling Garbage Can or "RGC" for short
2009 Pontiac G8 GT: L76, Sport Red Metallic
2009 Chevrolet Impala SS: LS4 V8, Victory Red
1999 Chevrolet Suburban: Sunset Gold Metallic - Daddy's winter beater and plow truck


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 26, 2014 1:30 am 
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Joined: Thu May 29, 2008 7:52 pm
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Location: Maryland
Year and Trim: 2002 SSEi
2004 Bonneville GXP
second that don't wait too long.

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2004 Bonneville GXP 62,000 miles purchased 04/13
2009 G8 GXP PBM, M6 9580 miles, no mods, sold 08/15
2009 G8 GT SBM 36,000 miles, modded 430 whp
2002 Bonneville SSEi 203,200 miles (sold 3/2014)


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 26, 2014 7:17 am 
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Joined: Thu May 22, 2008 8:52 pm
Posts: 1844
Location: Pacific Northwest
Year and Trim: Black 2001 Bonneville SSEi
Allen head impact driver set
Hammer
Jack and jack stands
Torque wrench
Lug nut wrench
1 5/16" x 1/2" drive deep wall impact socket
Long 1/2" heavy duty socket handle and maybe a breaker bar
medium to large Torx bits
assortment of metric sockets and wrenches (I can't remember which though 10mm thru 15mm should cover it)
caliper grease
Brake cleaner spray
rags for wiping down the rotor.

I hope this helps and that somebody corrects me where I am wrong

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Note if you pull the injectors to obserbe fuel delivery...make sure you leave the plugs in and disconnect the ign. Believe me


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 26, 2014 12:03 pm 
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Location: MN/IA
Year and Trim: '17 Silverado 1500
IIRC, you need a
19MM or 3/4" (19MM = 3/4") 1/2" drive socket for the lugnuts
34 MM 1/2" drive socket for the axle nut
15 MM 1/2" or 3/8" socket for the brake caliper
13 MM 3/8" Drive socket and extension for the hub bolts
1/2" Drive Ratchet
3/8" Drive Ratchet
Maybe a Cheater Pipe, depending on your strength/sockets.
Screwdriver to stick into the vanes of the rotor to keep it from spinning when you remove the axle nut.

Also: DON'T BREAK THE CALIPER TO KNUCKLE BOLTS, DON'T OVER TORQUE THEM. I broke one doing brakes on our GXP, and it was hell to find another one. They're a special shouldered bolt, and GM only had a few left. Mine had to come from NJ...

spoiledred, I think your list looks a lot more like a 92-99 list. 00+ is totally different. No torx or allen head bolts here.

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RIP sandrock
Sirius wrote:
Think about it. You’re tooling down the road in your Prius, knowing full-well that this thing being green is as big a sham as federally mandated ethanol-enriched gas, Russia pulling out of Ukraine, and Obamacare.


Last edited by 00Beast on Wed Feb 26, 2014 12:05 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Wed Feb 26, 2014 12:04 pm 
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Joined: Mon May 19, 2008 7:01 pm
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Location: Central Illinois
Year and Trim: 1992 SSE
2009 G8 GT
Get a new axle nut, too. They're a few bucks, and they aren't normally supposed to be reused.

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WHITE WHINE - IT'S INTOXICATING. 1992 SSE Supercharged 236.26 ci (.040 Over)
15.090 at 90.2 MPH on old engine w/ slipping trans & melted O2 sensor - Gen 3 M62 and matching TB, Gen 2 Pully, Zillamotorsports Ported LIM, YT 1.72 Roller Rockers, SII FPR & Injectors, Easy Performance Gen 3 Air/Fuel Calibrator, Hypertech Thermomaster chip w/ 160 Thermo, TransGo Shift Kit, Infinity/Pioneer Speakers and 10" Subs, 1300 watts, 140 amp Alternator, Ricepipe CAI w/ heatshield, Pilot Angel Eye Foglights, Clear Corners, '02 17" Chrome Bent 5's, Magnaflow F-Body Muffler and Hi-flo Cat, McCoy Motorsports Ceramic Coated Ported Exhaust Manifolds, Fan Override, PowerSlot Slotted Rotors.
2009 G8 GT - Sport Red Metallic, loaded, SOLO Axlebacks, Rotofab Intake, Tuned, autodim Trailblazer mirror, removed intake manifold cover, HSV GTS triple gauge pod, two tone red-hot shifter and HSV SuperSport steering wheel, GXP rear sway bar and diffuser


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