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PostPosted: Thu Jul 19, 2012 3:32 am 
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Location: Martinsburg, WV
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Seriously. I cannot the front motor mount. I'm 99% sue it's shot. The engine flops around like a tuna when I shift from park to drive. And it shifts really hard while driving. It goes in the shop Monday. I'd like to verify this beforehand though.

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PostPosted: Thu Jul 19, 2012 7:54 am 
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It's bad. It has a bracket what is bolted to the front of the engine by the exhaust manifold with four bolts. It bolts to the front of the subframe. Hopefully that helps you find it. But yeah, the mount is shoot.

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Bonita 78,000 miles traded on a CTS4
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 19, 2012 8:26 am 
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Thanks! I was able to find it. I didn't know it had a rubber boot/seal. It doesn't 'appear' to be damaged though :(

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PostPosted: Thu Jul 19, 2012 9:15 am 
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Location: Mason City, Ia
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It is a hydraulic mount, it should be filled with an oil based liquid. The bolt rips the rubber by the subframe.
This is the mount I made for my car.
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Chances are if you keep the car much longer you will be replacing the mount again.

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Bonita 78,000 miles traded on a CTS4
RogueSSEi wrote:
Bet she'll stop on a dime and give you 3 pennies back!


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 19, 2012 4:41 pm 
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Yeah, the mount usually rips and is damaged on the surface that contacts the subframe. It isn't possible to see without removing it from the car. The front half of the subframe will need to be dropped. Remove the bracket and mount together as one assembly and slinky it out. The mount will be held onto the bracket by (if I recall correctly) a 30mm nut.

I also do not suggest you go with the aftermarket front mount made by Anchor. I weakened mine within two months, to the point where it was flopping around almost as bad as a broken mount. I hollowed out and filled a stock mount with urethane casting compound, but I don't expect this solution to last very long either.

The best solution is the solid rubber one posted above. 3800 guys have been doing it for years, but the Northstar is a little more complicated because of the angle of the top stud.

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Jerry /// Past: 95 SSEi (June 2010 COTM) -- 04 GXP (July 2011 COTM)
91 Honda Civic Wagon DX 2WD (fuelly) -- 208,000km -- 92hp -- Autocross Warrior
09 Lexus LS460 AWD -- 94,000km -- Daily Driver
09 White Hot G8 GT -- 155,000km (fuelly) -- LS3 Cam -- GM LS3 CNC Ported Heads -- Kooks 1 3/4" Long Tube Headers -- Solo Catback Midsection -- Hooker Maxflow Mufflers -- Pat G Tune -- Rotofab Intake -- Tein S-Tech Springs -- GXP FE3 Dampers -- BMR Subframe Cradle Inserts -- BMR Subframe Connectors -- Forgestar F14 Gold 18x9 +40 -- Michelin Pilot Super Sport 245/45/18 -- Maverick Man Carbon Fiber Spoiler


Last edited by repinS on Thu Jul 19, 2012 4:44 pm, edited 2 times in total.

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PostPosted: Fri Jul 20, 2012 12:26 am 
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I'm assuming a shop won't install the hockey Puck mount? I usually work on my cars, changed water pump on my 93 Bonnie , heater core on wife's 02 Montana. How difficult a job is it? Im afraid to get in over my head with this car. Just looking at the engine makes me queasy :-)

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You know what they say, "Once you go black.............you keep it in the garage so you don't feel the need to wash it every half hour......"


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 20, 2012 8:04 am 
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The shop will put an aftermarket one, not a puck one. It's a little overwhelming, but you will feel great after you are done. Probably the only uncommon tool you will need is a 30mm socket. Someone on here can probably walk you step by step through it, I could get close but it has been awhile.

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Bonita 78,000 miles traded on a CTS4
RogueSSEi wrote:
Bet she'll stop on a dime and give you 3 pennies back!


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 20, 2012 5:16 pm 
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Air tools would be a good thing to have, but may not be entirely necessary for this job. Also a nice big pry bar would help. Here is a GENERAL guide off the top of my head. May not be fully accurate. Steps 5 and 6 may not necessarily be in that order:

0) Remove the torx screw holding the airbox to the front fender. This may have already come loose on most cars when the busted trans mount flops the powertrain around.
1) Raise and safely support car - not via the subframe - stands at the jack points at the rockers are ideal. You want to go pretty high. Don't forget to chock your rear wheels and set your parking brake beforehand.
2) Remove the clips holding the front airdam. Don't force them out, pry up the center section of the clip and they will just slide out.
3) Optional: Remove the front wheels. Recommended if you don't have an impact extension and air tools.
4) Support the engine/transmission with a jack. I use a bracket covering the exhaust between the oil pan and transmission pan. It'll be pretty hard to miss.
5) Unbolt rear half of the front trans mount, there are three or four locations: Bottom nut under the subframe, two nuts near the exhaust manifold that hold the bracket, and two studs that are bolted into the transmission. There is also a secondary bracket/bar that will need to be moved out of the way.
6) Undo the bolts for the two side engine mounts - they are near each wheel. If you pulled your wheels, you'll have lots of room. If not, you may be able to cheat and access them by steering the wheels to one side.
7) Undo the front two bolts for your subframe. You may want to use a jack (I use a spare tire jack) to ease the subframe down. Air tools may come in handy here to break loose the thread lock compound.
8) At this point the front mount should be loose and flopping around - here comes the challenging part.
9) Slinky the mount AND bracket assembly out from the engine bay. You may have to pry downward on your subframe to create enough space, OR jack up the engine/transmission to create enough clearance between the body and subframe. Play around here. I find a good place to pry would be off the AC compressor. Be careful about the metal lines (oil? fuel? ABS? I forget) that pass through this area. You will have to move them around, but make sure not to pinch or break them. I have found the best way to take it out is by turning the whole assembly upside down so that the bracket comes out first.
10) Cuss, swear, and take a break. Have a beer or six.
11) Hopefully you'll get the mount out. Installation is pretty much the reverse of removal. You may want to put some new thread locker on the subframe bolts.

You are probably doing no favours to your back 4 front subframe mounting points or your AC compressor by doing it this way, but I find it's the most effective for doing the front mount.

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Jerry /// Past: 95 SSEi (June 2010 COTM) -- 04 GXP (July 2011 COTM)
91 Honda Civic Wagon DX 2WD (fuelly) -- 208,000km -- 92hp -- Autocross Warrior
09 Lexus LS460 AWD -- 94,000km -- Daily Driver
09 White Hot G8 GT -- 155,000km (fuelly) -- LS3 Cam -- GM LS3 CNC Ported Heads -- Kooks 1 3/4" Long Tube Headers -- Solo Catback Midsection -- Hooker Maxflow Mufflers -- Pat G Tune -- Rotofab Intake -- Tein S-Tech Springs -- GXP FE3 Dampers -- BMR Subframe Cradle Inserts -- BMR Subframe Connectors -- Forgestar F14 Gold 18x9 +40 -- Michelin Pilot Super Sport 245/45/18 -- Maverick Man Carbon Fiber Spoiler


Last edited by repinS on Sun Jul 22, 2012 2:32 am, edited 5 times in total.

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PostPosted: Fri Jul 20, 2012 5:21 pm 
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Step 10 comes in handy the most..

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Bonita 78,000 miles traded on a CTS4
RogueSSEi wrote:
Bet she'll stop on a dime and give you 3 pennies back!


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 20, 2012 5:34 pm 
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:hail:

Whew! I think I'll start with step 10!

Thanks for all the info. Very much appreciated.

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You know what they say, "Once you go black.............you keep it in the garage so you don't feel the need to wash it every half hour......"


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 20, 2012 5:56 pm 
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No problem :)

I've done it twice before... will have to do it again by fall or next spring. I hope the third time will be the charm :sadeyz:

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Jerry /// Past: 95 SSEi (June 2010 COTM) -- 04 GXP (July 2011 COTM)
91 Honda Civic Wagon DX 2WD (fuelly) -- 208,000km -- 92hp -- Autocross Warrior
09 Lexus LS460 AWD -- 94,000km -- Daily Driver
09 White Hot G8 GT -- 155,000km (fuelly) -- LS3 Cam -- GM LS3 CNC Ported Heads -- Kooks 1 3/4" Long Tube Headers -- Solo Catback Midsection -- Hooker Maxflow Mufflers -- Pat G Tune -- Rotofab Intake -- Tein S-Tech Springs -- GXP FE3 Dampers -- BMR Subframe Cradle Inserts -- BMR Subframe Connectors -- Forgestar F14 Gold 18x9 +40 -- Michelin Pilot Super Sport 245/45/18 -- Maverick Man Carbon Fiber Spoiler


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PostPosted: Sat Jul 21, 2012 10:24 pm 
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fiveandcounting wrote:
:hail:

Whew! I think I'll start with step 10!

Thanks for all the info. Very much appreciated.



lol I know mine is shot also and just reading that!! Yea i too will just be doing the #10 a couple of times and the next day dropping it off at the shop to have them replace it!!

Nice write up BTW!!!

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PostPosted: Mon Jul 23, 2012 4:54 pm 
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$650.00..... Ouch! Oh well. At least its fixed. Next time I'm definitely doing it myself.

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Black 2005 GXP 55k Miles
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 23, 2012 6:27 pm 
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fiveandcounting wrote:
$650.00..... Ouch! Oh well. At least its fixed. Next time I'm definitely doing it myself.

Hopefully they gave you the vaseline free...

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Bonita 78,000 miles traded on a CTS4
RogueSSEi wrote:
Bet she'll stop on a dime and give you 3 pennies back!


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 24, 2012 1:19 am 
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No vaseline, but the car sat in the driveway all day and when i got in it to go to work at 10pm, I did find out they apparently threw in a free "Service Engine Soon" light! So, I'm at work and friggin p****d off!....

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Black 2005 GXP 55k Miles
You know what they say, "Once you go black.............you keep it in the garage so you don't feel the need to wash it every half hour......"


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 24, 2012 9:03 am 
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OBD code: P0410 Secondary Air Injection system fault.

1. Circuit relay defective or fuse open

2. Check connector and wiring

3. Air pump defective or hoses blocked.

I checked the fuse. It's fine. Anyone know where the relay is? Also, this is the pump in front of the driver's side tire, right?

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Black 2005 GXP 55k Miles
You know what they say, "Once you go black.............you keep it in the garage so you don't feel the need to wash it every half hour......"


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 24, 2012 9:40 am 
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fiveandcounting wrote:
OBD code: P0410 Secondary Air Injection system fault.

1. Circuit relay defective or fuse open

2. Check connector and wiring

3. Air pump defective or hoses blocked.

I checked the fuse. It's fine. Anyone know where the relay is? Also, this is the pump in front of the driver's side tire, right?


I would clear the codes and see if they come back, they might have turned it on without something plugged in.

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Bonita 78,000 miles traded on a CTS4
RogueSSEi wrote:
Bet she'll stop on a dime and give you 3 pennies back!


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 24, 2012 10:08 am 
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Wouldn't it clear after 3 successful ignition cycles? Or do I need to pull the battery cable?

I took the panel off in the fender well. Can see the pump and it definitely isn't running.

Edit: I don't have a OBD scanner btw. I stopped by Autozone on the way home from work.

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Black 2005 GXP 55k Miles
You know what they say, "Once you go black.............you keep it in the garage so you don't feel the need to wash it every half hour......"


Last edited by fiveandcounting on Tue Jul 24, 2012 10:10 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Tue Jul 24, 2012 4:40 pm 
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Yes it should clear itself, I'm just impatient and want stuff done now. The secondary air injection pump only runs before the car is up to temp.

I guess if it was my car it would be going back to the place that put the mount in. They did the work, they should fix what they messed up.

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Seth
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Bonita 78,000 miles traded on a CTS4
RogueSSEi wrote:
Bet she'll stop on a dime and give you 3 pennies back!


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 24, 2012 11:59 pm 
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Oh its going back. I was just trying to see if I could verify it was something they did. The pump is running just not very well. Maybe they pinched the hose? Gotta go over in the morning anyway. They left me a message that they didnt put my wheel lock back in the glove box so I neeed to go pick it up.

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