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PostPosted: Wed Dec 23, 2015 3:57 pm 
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Well I see the same misinformation or personal preference at best being preached as gospel truth in a lot of threads here during my search for all known issues into the depths. To the point that those that didn't know any better could be led to believe it's necessary for the survival of their car when that's just not the case.
I just happened to choose this thread to point this out.
As far as extended oil changes go, you would be WAY further ahead monetarily and motor wise to install a bypass filter than you are running synthetic oil.

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PostPosted: Wed Dec 23, 2015 7:42 pm 
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One of the benefits I found with synthetic oil, [Mobil1] was an increase in gas mileage. Believe it or not, another 30-40 km out of a tank of gas. This more than makes up for the increased cost of synthetic. [Which I always buy when it's on sale anyway]


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PostPosted: Thu Dec 24, 2015 1:27 pm 
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jradke61 wrote:
Well I see the same misinformation or personal preference at best being preached as gospel truth in a lot of threads here during my search for all known issues into the depths. To the point that those that didn't know any better could be led to believe it's necessary for the survival of their car when that's just not the case.
I just happened to choose this thread to point this out.
As far as extended oil changes go, you would be WAY further ahead monetarily and motor wise to install a bypass filter than you are running synthetic oil.


I don't see many posting personal preference on here. I give as much factual info as possible based on my experience from being trained by GM and working on their products.

AS far as oil goes, there are 3 standards GM has set forth for motor oil;
- GM4718M
- GM6094M
- And now Dexos (which supercedes those original two)

If the oil you're putting in the crankcase, be it conventional or synthetic meets and is approved (I.E. GM issued a license to the oil manufacturer), to meet any of those standards (hopefully Dexos1 now), you'll be fine with whatever you put in.

No one on this board is going to put any engine they own/drive/run, anywhere up to the maximum limits or push it past those design limits of even the cheapest base conventional oil, much less anything synthetic. That is unless you tell me you're running your Bonneville at Daytona in July for 500 miles at 7k constantly. Or you're a 6,000hp top fuel dragster...

As to running an oil by-pass, other oil filtration method, or a catch can, or anything else, 99% of the people in this world are not mechanically inclined. My 65 year old mother isn't going to go out and install a filter by-pass on the Impala this weekend to avert having to buy more expensive oil. She'll just get what I tell her to and spend the extra few $$. Secondly, trying to sell that car later down the road, unless you remove that by-pass, will raise the hair on the backs of a potential buyer. What the heII else did this clown do to the car that was above/beyond what GM installed from the factory.

At the end of the day, if someone spending a few $$$ more on oil lets them sleep better at night, as long as it meets the necessary standard for their vehicle (one of the three listed) above, you'll be ok.

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Summer Toys: Combined 827 RWHP / 877lb/ft RWTQ
2004 Pontiac GTO: Impulse Blue Metallic/Black/M6: lots 'o mods, 415 RWHP / 405lb/ft RWTQ!
2006 Cadillac STS-V: Light Platinum Metallic/Light Gray/A6 - Spectre CAI, Magnaflow exhaust, Speed Inc. tune, 412 RWHP / 472lb/ft RWTQ

Daily Drivers:
2015 Chrysler Town & Country Limited Platinum: Mommy's NEW RGC
2007 Chrysler Town & Country Limited: Daddy's beater affectionately called the Rolling Garbage Can or "RGC" for short
2009 Pontiac G8 GT: L76, Sport Red Metallic
2009 Chevrolet Impala SS: LS4 V8, Victory Red
1999 Chevrolet Suburban: Sunset Gold Metallic - Daddy's winter beater and plow truck


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PostPosted: Thu Dec 24, 2015 10:48 pm 
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jradke61 wrote:
Well I see the same misinformation or personal preference at best being preached as gospel truth in a lot of threads here during my search for all known issues into the depths. To the point that those that didn't know any better could be led to believe it's necessary for the survival of their car when that's just not the case.
I just happened to choose this thread to point this out.
As far as extended oil changes go, you would be WAY further ahead monetarily and motor wise to install a bypass filter than you are running synthetic oil.



I ran 10,000 mile oil change intervals on my '03 SSEi from when I bought it with 125,000 miles until I sold it with roughly 270,000 miles. I'm lazy and the less often I have to change my oil the better. With those long change intervals, Mobil 1 full synthetic oil and regular maintenance the car still looked and drove amazing as well as the bottom side of the engine / transmission was clean enough to eat off of. I'll take my better oil and longer change intervals any day.

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2003 BMW 540i M Sport, 2001 BMW X5 4.4i, 2010 GMC Acadia, 2017 Grand Design Imagine 3150BH
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 25, 2015 12:39 am 
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But did you pull the cam covers off and look up there? That is where the sludge generally develops. In the upper cylindrical area. Not in the lower crankcase area where it is constantly is getting sucked up, dropped back to the pan, beat up with the counterweights on the crank (as well as a reluctor wheel about midway on the crank of a N* V8), and in general sloshing around.

And for the record. It isn't the oil base stocks, conventional or synthetic (which uses conventional base stocks BTW), that fails (breaks down). It's the additive package, such as the detergents, anti-foaming, viscosity improvers, etc that break down.

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Retired Bonneville Owner and former GM Tech:
2004 Pontiac Bonneville GXP: Black/Ebony *SOLD*

Summer Toys: Combined 827 RWHP / 877lb/ft RWTQ
2004 Pontiac GTO: Impulse Blue Metallic/Black/M6: lots 'o mods, 415 RWHP / 405lb/ft RWTQ!
2006 Cadillac STS-V: Light Platinum Metallic/Light Gray/A6 - Spectre CAI, Magnaflow exhaust, Speed Inc. tune, 412 RWHP / 472lb/ft RWTQ

Daily Drivers:
2015 Chrysler Town & Country Limited Platinum: Mommy's NEW RGC
2007 Chrysler Town & Country Limited: Daddy's beater affectionately called the Rolling Garbage Can or "RGC" for short
2009 Pontiac G8 GT: L76, Sport Red Metallic
2009 Chevrolet Impala SS: LS4 V8, Victory Red
1999 Chevrolet Suburban: Sunset Gold Metallic - Daddy's winter beater and plow truck


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 25, 2015 2:56 am 
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crash93ssei wrote:
jradke61 wrote:
Well I see the same misinformation or personal preference at best being preached as gospel truth in a lot of threads here during my search for all known issues into the depths. To the point that those that didn't know any better could be led to believe it's necessary for the survival of their car when that's just not the case.
I just happened to choose this thread to point this out.
As far as extended oil changes go, you would be WAY further ahead monetarily and motor wise to install a bypass filter than you are running synthetic oil.



I ran 10,000 mile oil change intervals on my '03 SSEi from when I bought it with 125,000 miles until I sold it with roughly 270,000 miles. I'm lazy and the less often I have to change my oil the better. With those long change intervals, Mobil 1 full synthetic oil and regular maintenance the car still looked and drove amazing as well as the bottom side of the engine / transmission was clean enough to eat off of. I'll take my better oil and longer change intervals any day.


Sorry, I would never buy a car that's only had it's oil changed every 10,000 miles. I don't care what oil you use.

As for resale of a car with a bypass filter, I guess it's possible a potential buyer could view it that way tho they're a very simple concept. I would probably remove it anyway.
Sure is a totally different mindset here compared to the gearhead forums for big trucks where one's livelihood depends on the survival of our motors.
Bypass filters are considered a definite huge plus by all and very few see any benefit whatsoever to synthetic oil.

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PostPosted: Fri Dec 25, 2015 3:29 am 
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Please explain what the "different mindset" is? One of caution? One of trying to keep other members who might not be so wise to this particular vehicle from making potential big and perhaps costly mistake(s) due to experience with the vehicle at hand?

Problem is on any forum(s), is that there is somewhat a form of annonymity (I hope I spelled that right). When you offer advice, and the other person takes it, then damages something due to that advice, the person offering that advice isn't liable.

My "livelihood" at one time depended on me fixing what self proclaimed "my survival depends on this motor..." and "weekend warriors", who thought they knew more than those who designed it, built it, then trained me to repair it, broke! "Yea, just throw a "rotator splint" on it, you'll be good to go... Don't worry about it! What could go wrong?"

Part of it here, is that this isn't a performance forum. This isn't where people are building mondo LSX motor builds left and right, and turning out 10 second gorilla's. This is a forum about what most consider to be a sportier version of a GM appliance. Most people buying this car want to buy it cheap, invest as little into it as possible, only doing what is necessary to properly maintain it, and don't want a lot of B.S.

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Retired Bonneville Owner and former GM Tech:
2004 Pontiac Bonneville GXP: Black/Ebony *SOLD*

Summer Toys: Combined 827 RWHP / 877lb/ft RWTQ
2004 Pontiac GTO: Impulse Blue Metallic/Black/M6: lots 'o mods, 415 RWHP / 405lb/ft RWTQ!
2006 Cadillac STS-V: Light Platinum Metallic/Light Gray/A6 - Spectre CAI, Magnaflow exhaust, Speed Inc. tune, 412 RWHP / 472lb/ft RWTQ

Daily Drivers:
2015 Chrysler Town & Country Limited Platinum: Mommy's NEW RGC
2007 Chrysler Town & Country Limited: Daddy's beater affectionately called the Rolling Garbage Can or "RGC" for short
2009 Pontiac G8 GT: L76, Sport Red Metallic
2009 Chevrolet Impala SS: LS4 V8, Victory Red
1999 Chevrolet Suburban: Sunset Gold Metallic - Daddy's winter beater and plow truck


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 25, 2015 4:45 am 
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Ummm, the regulars at TDG are far from weekend warriors. lol And some of them DO know more than the manufacturers. At least when it comes to what's best for our motors as opposed to what the EPA says is best for our motors. 2 totally different things. There's just some things we all know to never trust in the hands of a certified dealership. Especially our ECMs.They are forced by law to undo what's best for our motors. This is why one of, if not thee, biggest manufacturer of class 8 motors got out.
I fail to see how promoting synthetic oil and 10,000 mile oil changes is one of caution. It's touted by many here as an almost must for the survival, at the very least longetivity, of their motors and nothing could be further from the truth.
This is what I was referring to as a totally different mindset than those that rely on their motor's very survival for their livelihood.
Totally different mindset of people looking for the same thing in their vehicles. What's best for them and what's going to make them last and not cost them a fortune and no BS.
Very few, if any of them are going to trust their motors to extended drain intervals and synthetic oil. The facts don't support it. The breakdown of key additives is there. Carbon levels are up just as in any conventional oil. It gives people a false sense of security past the levels it's safe to do so.

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PostPosted: Fri Dec 25, 2015 5:02 am 
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I'll bet my car with 10,000 mile change intervals would be many times more reliable, better maintained, better looking and cleaner then 99% of the rest of the cars out there that hit 250,000+ miles on 3,000 mile changes.
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These are cars, not big diesel trucks, very much an apples to oranges comparison. Look through this forum, at no point have I or anyone else ever recommended others to do 10,000 mile change intervals. I simply say it as a point of reference that I feel with this particular engine it is a waste of money for even conventional oil with 3,000 mile intervals, keep in mind that mine is a 3800, not a Northstar which this thread is about. With a Northstar and my 3.6 DOHC in my Acadia it will be full synthetic and likely 5,000 mile changes.

I drive back and forth to work every day, go ahead and tell me I don't rely on my engines very survival for my paycheck...

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Check out my detailing page on facebook! --> Next Level Detailing
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2003 Bonneville SSEi - The Black Mirror SOLD!
2002 Bonneville SE - The Mutt Complete 2004 SLE interior, drivetrain, and body harness swap, ECC swap, HUD swap, black GXP wheels, GXP headlights and tinted tails - SOLD
2003 BMW 540i M Sport, 2001 BMW X5 4.4i, 2010 GMC Acadia, 2017 Grand Design Imagine 3150BH
1982 Cutlass Supreme - The fun one

MattStrike wrote:
It was the worst week of my life! *pause, drinks beer... smiles* But I'm better now!


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 25, 2015 6:17 pm 
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jradke61 wrote:
Ummm, the regulars at TDG are far from weekend warriors. lol And some of them DO know more than the manufacturers. At least when it comes to what's best for our motors as opposed to what the EPA says is best for our motors. 2 totally different things. There's just some things we all know to never trust in the hands of a certified dealership. Especially our ECMs.They are forced by law to undo what's best for our motors. This is why one of, if not thee, biggest manufacturer of class 8 motors got out.


I disagree, so lets leave it at that.

Modifying YOUR particular vehicle to fit YOUR end goal is a little easier and you can take the liberties YOU wish, as opposed to an engineer who has to adhere to and make a product meet multiple goals, such as warranty, reliability, emissions, performance and other requirements.

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Retired Bonneville Owner and former GM Tech:
2004 Pontiac Bonneville GXP: Black/Ebony *SOLD*

Summer Toys: Combined 827 RWHP / 877lb/ft RWTQ
2004 Pontiac GTO: Impulse Blue Metallic/Black/M6: lots 'o mods, 415 RWHP / 405lb/ft RWTQ!
2006 Cadillac STS-V: Light Platinum Metallic/Light Gray/A6 - Spectre CAI, Magnaflow exhaust, Speed Inc. tune, 412 RWHP / 472lb/ft RWTQ

Daily Drivers:
2015 Chrysler Town & Country Limited Platinum: Mommy's NEW RGC
2007 Chrysler Town & Country Limited: Daddy's beater affectionately called the Rolling Garbage Can or "RGC" for short
2009 Pontiac G8 GT: L76, Sport Red Metallic
2009 Chevrolet Impala SS: LS4 V8, Victory Red
1999 Chevrolet Suburban: Sunset Gold Metallic - Daddy's winter beater and plow truck


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