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PostPosted: Tue Feb 22, 2011 10:16 pm 
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Joined: Wed May 21, 2008 9:54 pm
Posts: 85
Location: Palm Harbor, Florida
Year and Trim: 2004 Bonneville GXP, All available options
So, my car has been leaking oil for awhile. There was so much that I started at the top and worked my way down. I replaced the valve cover gaskets, oil lines, rear main seal, and also the oil sending unit. Well there was still oil. So I put in some dye, drove it a bit and sure enough, the oil pan gasket and timing cover are leaking oil. The local dealership said it would cost $1192 to replace those. It is mostly all labor. My question is this. If I am going to trade the car in in a few months, would you have this fixed or just live with it? Will the place I trade it in at notice this and not take the car?

We smell burning oil all the time because of the blow back on the catalytic converter. I have had the tranny rebuilt, new steering rack, replaced wheel hub on both wheels, 3 motor mounts, new cats and exhaust, new power steering pump, a/c lines, oil lines, water pump, and a lot more. This car was perfect the first 4 years and has been a nightmare since. I love the thing but it has become too much. It's too hard to work on things. A part will cost $20 but the labor will be $600!! I've had vacuum problems as well. I have had to replace entire window and locking units on the door because a couple of LED lights burned out. The power heating switch light has gone out 3 times. They have to replace the whole switch!! Now the driver side heated seat won't work. I am constantly getting a "Check stability system" light on the DIC even though they have replaced both wheel hubs. I am just so sad and my wife has had it. Though 116,000 miles for an '04 is sort of high I never figured it would get so expensive this soon.

So I ask again, do you think I should fix the oil leaks on the oil pan and timing cover before I trade it in?


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 23, 2011 2:30 am 
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Certified Bonneville Nut
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Joined: Tue May 04, 2010 11:21 pm
Posts: 3975
Location: Lone Star State
Year and Trim: 2017 Hyundai Santa Fe Sport
Find out how much will be deducted at trade/sale for the leaks, them figure what it'll cost you to fix it. You decide. Me, I'd probably fix the leaks and keep the car. - BC

Just thinking (ha - ha), if you are mechanically inclined at all, you could tackle the job yourself and save a ton of $$$$. There is no lack of knowledge or help from the forum. I am not knowledgeable about your engine, but there are members here that are. - BC

_________________
In Memory of Brad - 1/21/1977 .. 10/23/2013 ...... Aaron - 1977 .. 2017 .....
2017 Hyundai Santa Fe Sport ..... 1992 Bonneville SSE 1SB 170 HP L27 4T60E retired/sold to MattStrike ..... 2005 Bonneville SE 1SC 205 HP L36 4T65E - retired/salvage yard ..... PBCF user 2321


Last edited by 1oldman on Wed Feb 23, 2011 1:33 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 09, 2011 3:51 pm 
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Certified Bonneville Nut
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Joined: Wed May 13, 2009 10:45 pm
Posts: 5827
Location: CHICAGO
Year and Trim: 2006 STS-V, 2004 GTO, 2009 G8 GT
With 116k on it, are you concerned with how pretty it is under the hood?

Caveat: Most here know me, and that I tend to be pretty religious about following the order of operations because there is typically a reason GM says to do things the way they say. On the flip side, most of those folks who DO know their stuff, and write up those orders of operations, also don't work in service and don't realize that once the car is all assembled, sometimes their processes aren't feasible and can be time wasteful. Part of working in service is qauntity as much as quality. I got paid to move sheetmetal through my bay, as well as to fix it right the first time.

With that said...

A cheap, temporary fix, would be to clean the areas really good. Get some high temp permatex gasket maker/sealant. Get an old toothbrush. Smear in the gasket maker/sealant with fingers/old toothbrush, etc as best as possible along those mating surfaces where the leak(s) are. Drive the car until the wheels fall off or you trade it in on something else. Even if you sell it used after another 20 - 30k are put on the clock, it's a 140 - 150k mileage car. Most used car buyers aren't going to be concerned about whether or not you completely replaced the gaskets, or just got them to seal and that it's NOT leaking.

Once again, I don't subscribe to this theory, BUT, I have had customers in the past who have said "Just fix it easily and as cheaply as possible and I'm just going to ride it out!"

_________________
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Retired Bonneville Owner and former GM Tech:
2004 Pontiac Bonneville GXP: Black/Ebony *SOLD*

Summer Toys: Combined 827 RWHP / 877lb/ft RWTQ
2004 Pontiac GTO: Impulse Blue Metallic/Black/M6: lots 'o mods, 415 RWHP / 405lb/ft RWTQ!
2006 Cadillac STS-V: Light Platinum Metallic/Light Gray/A6 - Spectre CAI, Magnaflow exhaust, Speed Inc. tune, 412 RWHP / 472lb/ft RWTQ

Daily Drivers:
2019 Chrysler Pacifica Limited: Mommy's new RGC
2015 Chrysler Town & Country Limited Platinum: Kids new RGC
2007 Chrysler Town & Country Limited: Sold to neighbor
2009 Pontiac G8 GT: L76, Sport Red Metallic
2003 Chevrolet Suburban 2500: Doeskin Tan - 8.1L Big Block... new plow truck
1999 Chevrolet Suburban: Sunset Gold Metallic - Daddy's winter beater and plow truck


Last edited by CMNTMXR57 on Wed Mar 09, 2011 3:52 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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