So, after much personal resistance to the idea, I have decided to replace my factory head unit. I have ordered the Clarion DXZ385USB to replace it. I got a great deal on it too. $160 shipped with a free dash kit and discounted data-interface adapter from sonicelectronix on ebay. They have great customer service too. Hopefully all goes well with the order.
Here is some pics of the unit:
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/pictures.php?id=11312 I like it because it is all black, has all red button illumination, a really bright screen, and does not look like it's from outer space. It has a lot of features too, including my favorite, front panel USB for a nice sized flash drive. Anyway, when I get it in, I plan on doing a step by step guide so you can see exactly how it all goes together. In the future, I may add the Bluetooth and Sattalite radio modules, but I will wait for now.
EDIT 12/2/2008 12:30 PM: I will be starting the install tomorrow. Hopefully the pics will turn out ok. My camera is a little 2.1 MP. My cell has a better camera resolution but I have shaky hands. I will begin below with the prep of the harness. Wish me luck!
STEP #1 - IN THE BEGINNING THERE WAS THE HARNESSI will begin with this disclaimer. The information to follow is for 2000-2003(?) Pontiac Bonneviles WITHOUT Bose and WITHOUT OnStar. Other vehicles may be similar.
As you may have heard by now, one needs to use a Chime and Data Integration Interface (CDI) when replacing the Factory Head Unit (FHU). The reason being that the warning chimes and data bus are integrated into the FHU in order to play any warning chimes through the driver's door speaker. In order to keep the vehicle operating in factory condition and good "health", you will need one of the following CDI kits:
These various kits include a CDI which will have the following features:
Speaker leads to use the factory wiring (Optional - These will not be used in this tutorial)
Chassis ground lead (GND) (Optional - This will not be used in this tutorial to forgoe any chance of noise entering the system)
12 volt constant power lead (Optional - Once again this will not be used for similar reasons)
12 volt accessory (ACC) power lead featuring retained accessory power (RAP)
Variable illumination lead for HU display
The CDI unit will emit noise/chimes to alert driver of problems and provide system "health" status to the data bus
On the other side of the equasion is the harness provided by the aftermarket head unit. This harness will need to be connected to the CDI as well as (for the sake of this tutorial) separate power and ground leads. This harness will include the following:
Speaker leads to use the factory wiring (Optional - Not used)
Yellow memory lead - Connect to +12v
Yellow main power lead - Connect to +12v
Red ACC power lead - Connect to ACC lead from CDI
Blue/White remote lead - Connect to amplifier REM wire or accessories (Optional)
Black ground lead - Connect to GND (Can be connected to CDI GND lead, but that may create noise)
Orange illumination lead - Connect to variable illumination lead from CDI
Blue anntenna turn on lead - Not used on a Bonneville
You need to connect only two wires from the two harnesses together. The orange illumination leads, and the red ACC power leads. This will provide your aftermarket deck with RAP and allow the face plate to dim with the dashboard lighting controler (depends on the HU). In addition you will need to run +12v, REM, and RCA cables/wires from the battery and trunk in order to provide power and run an amplifier. The ground lead from the HU harness will need to be attached to a solid piece of bare (sanded) metal under the dash.
This is what the CDI side of the harness will look like:
This is the new HU harness. The red ACC power lead is connected directly to the CDI. The orange illumination lead is connected to the CDI harness. I reccomend binding up the extra wires with ties, however, do not bind them as tightly as I have. They were a pain to get into the dash that way. Also tape off any bare wire ends before installation. Electronic shorts are your worst nightmare.
Now that the two are connected, attach a 12 foot length of 10ga wire to the HU harness power leads. I reccomend soldering them and using heat shrink wrap. This creates a strong physical and electrical connection. Next, you must add a fuse between the power wires and the battery. I used a blade fuse holder I found at walmart for $2USD. This will prevent the wire from shorting if the isulation ever wears through. I used a 20 AMP fuse for my HU. Finally, add a 22-18ga REM lead to turn on any amplifiers you have.
The entire harness:
The fuse holder and wire joint before soldering:
STEP #2 - REMOVE THE DASH AND FACTORY HEAD UNIThawkjet wrote:
First remove the fascia from around the instrument panel and radio.
There are two plastic rivets going up into the fascia above the instrument cluster. Press the center of the rivets upward (pics 1 & 2) and then carefully pry the rivets out (pic 3).
Pry the trim ring off the ignition switch (pic 4) notice I put electrical tape around the screwdriver blade to avoid marring the trim. Then pull out the 'cubby hole' on the left of the wheel (pic 5). Tilt the wheel all the way down and pull the panel off the dash (pic 6).
Reach behind the right side and disconnect the connector(pic7). Carefully tweek the panel to get it around the wheel and out of the way.
After all of that, put the steering wheel all the way down and carefully wiggle the dash trim out.
To remove the old head unit press inward on the tabs indicated below, then pull on the tabs.
The radio will slide right out and your dashboard will now look like this:
STEP #3 DASH CAVITY PREPARATIONAssemble your new HU and dash trim kit (I used Scosche Kit# GM1583). Slide it into the opening and decide where or if you will need to cut. The tabs of the trim kit should fit flush against the dash cavity sides. If not you will probably need to do some cutting to help the wires clear. Here is what you will start with:
Do a test fit for the next step:
For my install I decided to mount the kit upside-down with the pocket on top. I like it this way but this is not necessary. In fact, it may be more difficult. In the next picture I show where you will need to cut away the plastic so the new HU will have enough clearance for the case and all the cables behind it. Every HU has different cable placement so cut accordingly. Red is where to cut if you mount your kit the proper way. Green is where to cut to be upside-down like me:
Once everything fits flush it is time to get your harness and move to STEP #4!
STEP #4 - INSTALLING THE NEW HARNESS AND ROUTING ALL THE CABLESAt this point you will need to take your harness and route all the cables down through the side of the dash cavity. You may also push it up from the bottom, like I did, but that was a PITA. They will end up behind the console. There is a large area to hide extra wire back there.
This is where the harness and RCA cables go down:
You will also want to attach the harness ground lead to the bare aluminum back there. This is easily achieved with a self tapping screw. The aluminum is thick but soft, and provides a great ground point.
Now all you cables will be in a mess under the dash. Drape the RCAs out and down the driver's side of the car. Drape the harness power and REM wires down the passenger's side. Do not reverse this as the engine power is routed through the passenger side and will cause noise. Now right behind the center console there is a seam in the carpet where the front pieces overlap. Slide your cables under that and around the top of the floor pan under the carpet to the kick panels. All your wiring will be concealed this way and not end up falling out of your dash. It will also not be under foot, just out of sight. Example:
At this point, test-fit your dash kit again and make sure it fits with the cables installed. If not, cut away more material in the dash cavity and zip tie things out of the way so it will all fold in nicely.
Time to get the wires to the trunk. we will be removing these trim peices on the door sills:
Remove the seat by pulling up at the points noted. It pops right out without any fasteners. To remove the trim, pull straight up on each piece. They will pop right off. These are the trim pieces removed. Please note the location of the fasteners on each piece.
Next, slide the cables down between the carpet and the floor. There is a plastic wire channel that you can put them in down there, or just lay them in there like me. Do this on both sides for the harness power wires and the RCAs. When working in the driver's kick panel, be careful not to distort the carpet too much or the trunk release lever will end up rubbing on the trim when you put it back together. The tricky part is the B-pillar. To get the wire under the trim, slowly slide the wire underneath. Then wiggle it back down under the carpet. I do not recommend removing this trim piece as the fasteners easily break (ask how I know). You may now shove your amp REM lead under the rear seat into the trunk.
Picture of under the seat:
Now connect your power lead to the battery POS terminal. Leave the fuse out of the holder until you are completely ready to turn on the new HU. I used a crimp-on ring terminal and these special battery side-posts. They allow you to add as many accessories to your battery as you wish. These ones I had to modify to fit in the factory cables, BUT you can get another style at Checker Auto for $5 that does not require you to cut up your cables like I did.
Battery terminals:
STEP #5 - CLEAN UP AND ENJOY!Push the trim pieces back in place and make sure all your wires are hidden. Vaccume out any shavings from cutting the dash cavity. Plug everything in and carefully slide in the new HU. I found it easier to slide in the entire dash kit assembly rather than install the kit and the HU later. You will have more room for your hands to connect things.
Put the dash trim back on and check the clearance around your kit. If it lines up, just push the trim in place and be sure to put the push pins back in above the guage cluster. If not, just keep adjusting the kit up/down or side/side until it all fits correctly. Now go annoy the neighborhood or enjoy your new prestine sound system.
Here is what it looks like when it is done:
I will retake the night pic once I get the bulbs replaced in my climate control unit.
If something needs clarification please post below or PM me. I will be editing this soon so bring on the comments.