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PostPosted: Mon Nov 24, 2008 2:45 pm 
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So, after much personal resistance to the idea, I have decided to replace my factory head unit. I have ordered the Clarion DXZ385USB to replace it. I got a great deal on it too. $160 shipped with a free dash kit and discounted data-interface adapter from sonicelectronix on ebay. They have great customer service too. Hopefully all goes well with the order.

Here is some pics of the unit: http://www.sonicelectronix.com/pictures.php?id=11312 I like it because it is all black, has all red button illumination, a really bright screen, and does not look like it's from outer space. It has a lot of features too, including my favorite, front panel USB for a nice sized flash drive. Anyway, when I get it in, I plan on doing a step by step guide so you can see exactly how it all goes together. In the future, I may add the Bluetooth and Sattalite radio modules, but I will wait for now.

EDIT 12/2/2008 12:30 PM: I will be starting the install tomorrow. Hopefully the pics will turn out ok. My camera is a little 2.1 MP. My cell has a better camera resolution but I have shaky hands. I will begin below with the prep of the harness. Wish me luck!

STEP #1 - IN THE BEGINNING THERE WAS THE HARNESS

Image

I will begin with this disclaimer. The information to follow is for 2000-2003(?) Pontiac Bonneviles WITHOUT Bose and WITHOUT OnStar. Other vehicles may be similar.

As you may have heard by now, one needs to use a Chime and Data Integration Interface (CDI) when replacing the Factory Head Unit (FHU). The reason being that the warning chimes and data bus are integrated into the FHU in order to play any warning chimes through the driver's door speaker. In order to keep the vehicle operating in factory condition and good "health", you will need one of the following CDI kits:
    Scosche DCGM14b
    PAC GM32r
    Peripheral XXXX
    METRA GMAC09

These various kits include a CDI which will have the following features:
    Speaker leads to use the factory wiring (Optional - These will not be used in this tutorial)
    Chassis ground lead (GND) (Optional - This will not be used in this tutorial to forgoe any chance of noise entering the system)
    12 volt constant power lead (Optional - Once again this will not be used for similar reasons)
    12 volt accessory (ACC) power lead featuring retained accessory power (RAP)
    Variable illumination lead for HU display
    The CDI unit will emit noise/chimes to alert driver of problems and provide system "health" status to the data bus

On the other side of the equasion is the harness provided by the aftermarket head unit. This harness will need to be connected to the CDI as well as (for the sake of this tutorial) separate power and ground leads. This harness will include the following:
    Speaker leads to use the factory wiring (Optional - Not used)
    Yellow memory lead - Connect to +12v
    Yellow main power lead - Connect to +12v
    Red ACC power lead - Connect to ACC lead from CDI
    Blue/White remote lead - Connect to amplifier REM wire or accessories (Optional)
    Black ground lead - Connect to GND (Can be connected to CDI GND lead, but that may create noise)
    Orange illumination lead - Connect to variable illumination lead from CDI
    Blue anntenna turn on lead - Not used on a Bonneville

You need to connect only two wires from the two harnesses together. The orange illumination leads, and the red ACC power leads. This will provide your aftermarket deck with RAP and allow the face plate to dim with the dashboard lighting controler (depends on the HU). In addition you will need to run +12v, REM, and RCA cables/wires from the battery and trunk in order to provide power and run an amplifier. The ground lead from the HU harness will need to be attached to a solid piece of bare (sanded) metal under the dash.

This is what the CDI side of the harness will look like:

Image

This is the new HU harness. The red ACC power lead is connected directly to the CDI. The orange illumination lead is connected to the CDI harness. I reccomend binding up the extra wires with ties, however, do not bind them as tightly as I have. They were a pain to get into the dash that way. Also tape off any bare wire ends before installation. Electronic shorts are your worst nightmare.

Image

Now that the two are connected, attach a 12 foot length of 10ga wire to the HU harness power leads. I reccomend soldering them and using heat shrink wrap. This creates a strong physical and electrical connection. Next, you must add a fuse between the power wires and the battery. I used a blade fuse holder I found at walmart for $2USD. This will prevent the wire from shorting if the isulation ever wears through. I used a 20 AMP fuse for my HU. Finally, add a 22-18ga REM lead to turn on any amplifiers you have.

The entire harness:

Image

The fuse holder and wire joint before soldering:

Image

STEP #2 - REMOVE THE DASH AND FACTORY HEAD UNIT

hawkjet wrote:
First remove the fascia from around the instrument panel and radio.

There are two plastic rivets going up into the fascia above the instrument cluster. Press the center of the rivets upward (pics 1 & 2) and then carefully pry the rivets out (pic 3).


Image

Pry the trim ring off the ignition switch (pic 4) notice I put electrical tape around the screwdriver blade to avoid marring the trim. Then pull out the 'cubby hole' on the left of the wheel (pic 5). Tilt the wheel all the way down and pull the panel off the dash (pic 6).


Image

Reach behind the right side and disconnect the connector(pic7). Carefully tweek the panel to get it around the wheel and out of the way.


After all of that, put the steering wheel all the way down and carefully wiggle the dash trim out.

To remove the old head unit press inward on the tabs indicated below, then pull on the tabs.

Image

The radio will slide right out and your dashboard will now look like this:

Image

STEP #3 DASH CAVITY PREPARATION

Assemble your new HU and dash trim kit (I used Scosche Kit# GM1583). Slide it into the opening and decide where or if you will need to cut. The tabs of the trim kit should fit flush against the dash cavity sides. If not you will probably need to do some cutting to help the wires clear. Here is what you will start with:

Image

Do a test fit for the next step:

Image

For my install I decided to mount the kit upside-down with the pocket on top. I like it this way but this is not necessary. In fact, it may be more difficult. In the next picture I show where you will need to cut away the plastic so the new HU will have enough clearance for the case and all the cables behind it. Every HU has different cable placement so cut accordingly. Red is where to cut if you mount your kit the proper way. Green is where to cut to be upside-down like me: :)

Image

Once everything fits flush it is time to get your harness and move to STEP #4!

STEP #4 - INSTALLING THE NEW HARNESS AND ROUTING ALL THE CABLES

At this point you will need to take your harness and route all the cables down through the side of the dash cavity. You may also push it up from the bottom, like I did, but that was a PITA. They will end up behind the console. There is a large area to hide extra wire back there.

This is where the harness and RCA cables go down:

Image

You will also want to attach the harness ground lead to the bare aluminum back there. This is easily achieved with a self tapping screw. The aluminum is thick but soft, and provides a great ground point.

Now all you cables will be in a mess under the dash. Drape the RCAs out and down the driver's side of the car. Drape the harness power and REM wires down the passenger's side. Do not reverse this as the engine power is routed through the passenger side and will cause noise. Now right behind the center console there is a seam in the carpet where the front pieces overlap. Slide your cables under that and around the top of the floor pan under the carpet to the kick panels. All your wiring will be concealed this way and not end up falling out of your dash. It will also not be under foot, just out of sight. Example:

Image

At this point, test-fit your dash kit again and make sure it fits with the cables installed. If not, cut away more material in the dash cavity and zip tie things out of the way so it will all fold in nicely.

Time to get the wires to the trunk. we will be removing these trim peices on the door sills:

Image

Image

Remove the seat by pulling up at the points noted. It pops right out without any fasteners. To remove the trim, pull straight up on each piece. They will pop right off. These are the trim pieces removed. Please note the location of the fasteners on each piece.

Image

Image

Next, slide the cables down between the carpet and the floor. There is a plastic wire channel that you can put them in down there, or just lay them in there like me. Do this on both sides for the harness power wires and the RCAs. When working in the driver's kick panel, be careful not to distort the carpet too much or the trunk release lever will end up rubbing on the trim when you put it back together. The tricky part is the B-pillar. To get the wire under the trim, slowly slide the wire underneath. Then wiggle it back down under the carpet. I do not recommend removing this trim piece as the fasteners easily break (ask how I know). You may now shove your amp REM lead under the rear seat into the trunk.

Picture of under the seat:

Image

Now connect your power lead to the battery POS terminal. Leave the fuse out of the holder until you are completely ready to turn on the new HU. I used a crimp-on ring terminal and these special battery side-posts. They allow you to add as many accessories to your battery as you wish. These ones I had to modify to fit in the factory cables, BUT you can get another style at Checker Auto for $5 that does not require you to cut up your cables like I did.

Battery terminals:

Image

STEP #5 - CLEAN UP AND ENJOY!

Push the trim pieces back in place and make sure all your wires are hidden. Vaccume out any shavings from cutting the dash cavity. Plug everything in and carefully slide in the new HU. I found it easier to slide in the entire dash kit assembly rather than install the kit and the HU later. You will have more room for your hands to connect things.

Put the dash trim back on and check the clearance around your kit. If it lines up, just push the trim in place and be sure to put the push pins back in above the guage cluster. If not, just keep adjusting the kit up/down or side/side until it all fits correctly. Now go annoy the neighborhood or enjoy your new prestine sound system.

Here is what it looks like when it is done:

Image

Image

I will retake the night pic once I get the bulbs replaced in my climate control unit. :oops:
Image

If something needs clarification please post below or PM me. I will be editing this soon so bring on the comments.

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2001 Pontiac Bonneville SE 3.8n/a 110k, PLIM, APN UIM, 180 T-stat, Clarion DXZ385USB, Memphis 6.5s/6x9s/12" PR sub, Kicker ZX700.5 Amp.
1999 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited 4.7 V8 120k, WAAG Brush Guard, 2in Lift, SkyJacker Shocks, HD front driveshaft, Infinity Tweeters, 12" Memphis sub, Rockford Fosgate Punch amp
1994 Pontiac Grand Prix 3100 180k SOLD :(

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Last edited by grandprix104 on Wed Dec 10, 2008 2:48 am, edited 8 times in total.

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 Post subject: Re: New Head Unit
PostPosted: Mon Nov 24, 2008 7:10 pm 
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grandprix104 wrote:
Anyway, when I get it in, I plan on doing a step by step guide so you can see exactly how it all goes together.


Great idea! There are a lot of people on this board that are unsure how aftermarket radios work with the 00+'s. Step by step pics would be great.

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 Post subject: Re: New Head Unit
PostPosted: Mon Nov 24, 2008 7:46 pm 
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harofreak00 wrote:
grandprix104 wrote:
Anyway, when I get it in, I plan on doing a step by step guide so you can see exactly how it all goes together.


Great idea! There are a lot of people on this board that are unsure how aftermarket radios work with the 00+'s. Step by step pics would be great.

X2!!!! i would love for you to do a writeup

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 Post subject: Re: New Head Unit
PostPosted: Mon Nov 24, 2008 8:13 pm 
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x3. i think a double din would be sweet, but on the other hand i want a cubby to stick my phone in.. lol!


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 Post subject: Re: New Head Unit
PostPosted: Wed Nov 26, 2008 10:25 pm 
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bonnevillain wrote:
x3. i think a double din would be sweet, but on the other hand i want a cubby to stick my phone in.. lol!


Thats what the hole in the roof console is for... oh wait, you have sunroof... sucker...

lol :booty:

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 04, 2008 3:21 pm 
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BUMP for update, let me know what you think, or if I missed something.

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2001 Pontiac Bonneville SE 3.8n/a 110k, PLIM, APN UIM, 180 T-stat, Clarion DXZ385USB, Memphis 6.5s/6x9s/12" PR sub, Kicker ZX700.5 Amp.
1999 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited 4.7 V8 120k, WAAG Brush Guard, 2in Lift, SkyJacker Shocks, HD front driveshaft, Infinity Tweeters, 12" Memphis sub, Rockford Fosgate Punch amp
1994 Pontiac Grand Prix 3100 180k SOLD :(

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 04, 2008 3:52 pm 
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sticky this :banana:

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PostPosted: Mon Dec 08, 2008 1:40 pm 
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GAH! I need the finished pics NOW!!!!

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PostPosted: Wed Dec 10, 2008 2:32 am 
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Doh! Sorry I forgot. They are coming :)

Ok ther ya go :)

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2001 Pontiac Bonneville SE 3.8n/a 110k, PLIM, APN UIM, 180 T-stat, Clarion DXZ385USB, Memphis 6.5s/6x9s/12" PR sub, Kicker ZX700.5 Amp.
1999 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited 4.7 V8 120k, WAAG Brush Guard, 2in Lift, SkyJacker Shocks, HD front driveshaft, Infinity Tweeters, 12" Memphis sub, Rockford Fosgate Punch amp
1994 Pontiac Grand Prix 3100 180k SOLD :(

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Last edited by grandprix104 on Wed Dec 10, 2008 2:49 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Wed Dec 10, 2008 1:09 pm 
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I have never run a cable to the battery for the +12v wire for my head unit. Does it make a difference?

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PostPosted: Wed Dec 10, 2008 5:23 pm 
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Honestly, I'm not sure. The research I did online about noise issues reccomended this approach. The reason I did this is I do not like the small traces in the dash ribbon harness, and I don't want to starve the unit for power. I still get a little noise in the system, but it is only while the dome lights dim. I am going to try running the ground wire back to the battery in the future. Maybe that will help. Otherwise, I am very happy with it. It is far better than the noise and popping I was getting from the factory head unit. It would be easier to use the power leads on the CDI, but this way the HU does not rely at all on the factory wiring. Except for the ACC power from the CDI. It was also very cheap to do. The wire and fuse holder were less than $8US at Wal-Mart.

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2001 Pontiac Bonneville SE 3.8n/a 110k, PLIM, APN UIM, 180 T-stat, Clarion DXZ385USB, Memphis 6.5s/6x9s/12" PR sub, Kicker ZX700.5 Amp.
1999 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited 4.7 V8 120k, WAAG Brush Guard, 2in Lift, SkyJacker Shocks, HD front driveshaft, Infinity Tweeters, 12" Memphis sub, Rockford Fosgate Punch amp
1994 Pontiac Grand Prix 3100 180k SOLD :(

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Last edited by grandprix104 on Wed Dec 10, 2008 5:26 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Sun Feb 01, 2009 12:04 am 
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i have a quick question on this... if you don't care about chimes, can you avoid buying any of those adapters? or are they needed simply for connectivity?


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 01, 2009 12:32 am 
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If you do not care about chimes then no, you don't need the interface. You can get a $12 harness that will connect your new hu to the factory harness. It has been mentioned before that using this approach can cause what is called an "unhealthy" status for the system bus, but it should not set off the SES light or anything. Just dont forget to turn off your lights, run out of gas, or have any engine problems that beep at you! It is also possible to move the factory hu to the trunk with a relocation harness and then use a afermarket hu for audio. Most pay for the adapter just to keep things working as from the factory. If you have XM or onStar they may also be affected by not using the interface.

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2001 Pontiac Bonneville SE 3.8n/a 110k, PLIM, APN UIM, 180 T-stat, Clarion DXZ385USB, Memphis 6.5s/6x9s/12" PR sub, Kicker ZX700.5 Amp.
1999 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited 4.7 V8 120k, WAAG Brush Guard, 2in Lift, SkyJacker Shocks, HD front driveshaft, Infinity Tweeters, 12" Memphis sub, Rockford Fosgate Punch amp
1994 Pontiac Grand Prix 3100 180k SOLD :(

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PostPosted: Sun Feb 01, 2009 12:40 am 
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i'm sorry, but i'm not paying $60 for some chimes. i hate the random chiming the aeroforce causes anyways. my gas never gets below 1/3 tank, and i will notice a CEL so im not concerned about that. the lights go on and off automatically anyways, i don't turn them on manually.

you mention speaker leads to use factory wiring. I'm a bit confused about what you mean by that?


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 01, 2009 12:56 am 
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If you dont care about chimes then you just saved about $50. The harness used to be carried at wal-mart, but any car audio place should have one.

When you mention speaker leads are you talking about the tutorial above? If I understand correctly, I have all my speakers amplified so ALL my audio signal is carried to the amp via RCA cables. If you are going to use the HU to power the speakers then you will connect the speaker leads from the hu to the speaker leads on the harness, which then connects to the factory ribbon cable. If you get the $12 cable then it will look the same as my harness above minus the black box and all the wires I spliced to it. Basically the speaker "leads" are the wires I have folded up and zip tied. It will have Front R/L and Rear R/L speaker connections as well as illumination/dimmer other various leads. You will need to find switched power as well. This is easily gotten at the ignition switch with easy access. You WILL lose the ability your radio has of playing after your car is turned off (until you open a door). This feature is called RAP retained accessory power. It is not a necessity but I really like the feature. The interface adaper mimics this feature too.

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2001 Pontiac Bonneville SE 3.8n/a 110k, PLIM, APN UIM, 180 T-stat, Clarion DXZ385USB, Memphis 6.5s/6x9s/12" PR sub, Kicker ZX700.5 Amp.
1999 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited 4.7 V8 120k, WAAG Brush Guard, 2in Lift, SkyJacker Shocks, HD front driveshaft, Infinity Tweeters, 12" Memphis sub, Rockford Fosgate Punch amp
1994 Pontiac Grand Prix 3100 180k SOLD :(

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Last edited by grandprix104 on Sun Feb 01, 2009 12:59 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Sun Feb 01, 2009 1:20 am 
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grandprix104 wrote:

If I understand correctly, I have all my speakers amplified so ALL my audio signal is carried to the amp via RCA cables. If you are going to use the HU to power the speakers then you will connect the speaker leads from the hu to the speaker leads on the harness, which then connects to the factory ribbon cable.

well i haven't decided if i want to amplify or not yet, but if i don't, i just wanted to make sure that i wouldn't actually have to mess with the wires coming from the speakers.
I just connect the speaker lead wires on the Head unit to the ones on the adapter, plug the adapter into the stock connector, and go?


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 01, 2009 1:22 am 
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yep, simple as that. Except for the switched power from the ignition.

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2001 Pontiac Bonneville SE 3.8n/a 110k, PLIM, APN UIM, 180 T-stat, Clarion DXZ385USB, Memphis 6.5s/6x9s/12" PR sub, Kicker ZX700.5 Amp.
1999 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited 4.7 V8 120k, WAAG Brush Guard, 2in Lift, SkyJacker Shocks, HD front driveshaft, Infinity Tweeters, 12" Memphis sub, Rockford Fosgate Punch amp
1994 Pontiac Grand Prix 3100 180k SOLD :(

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PostPosted: Sun Feb 01, 2009 1:33 am 
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ok thanks for all your help. one last question, is the sound quality of most decks nowadays the same? should i be mostly concerned about the interface and features, or are some pretty shoddy quality? any helpful review sites you know of?


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 01, 2009 1:38 am 
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For sound quality, I would stick with mid-grade pioneer, alpine, clarion, or jvc. Those I have experience with. Pretty much anything around $150 or more will have great sound. The more you spend the better features you have. I know some of the new JVCs have a full featured amplifier built in to them, not to mention bluetooth, xm, streaming audio from your phone, etc. There is some fancy stuff. I bought mine based on looks. I wanted black with red backlighting. It is very simple but thats how I like it. Crutchfield.com has good reviews and sonicelectronix.com has great prices and service with some reviews too.

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2001 Pontiac Bonneville SE 3.8n/a 110k, PLIM, APN UIM, 180 T-stat, Clarion DXZ385USB, Memphis 6.5s/6x9s/12" PR sub, Kicker ZX700.5 Amp.
1999 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited 4.7 V8 120k, WAAG Brush Guard, 2in Lift, SkyJacker Shocks, HD front driveshaft, Infinity Tweeters, 12" Memphis sub, Rockford Fosgate Punch amp
1994 Pontiac Grand Prix 3100 180k SOLD :(

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PostPosted: Sun Feb 01, 2009 2:43 am 
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ok, i have to post again. i just spent the last hour looking at head units, and the one i ended up with was the Clarion DB285USB. looks identical to yours, except cheaper. I can't figure out what the difference is. also, which adapter do i need? according to crutchfield, neither of those will work with my car. im assuming that's because it is not Plug and play


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