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PostPosted: Thu Mar 12, 2015 11:47 pm 
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Well, fortunately I had no plans for OnStar either, but you never know later down the road, Oh well, not a necessary feature. And, as far as I know my HU does not offer the GPS although I am unsure about any type of add-on module deal. But, again, not a needed feature lol.

This is my first double DIN, but, yeah, it just made sense and seemed like it would be a good way to liven up the interior. Can't beat sound quality though, haha.


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 13, 2015 1:53 pm 
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Yeah, with phone's these days, an in dash GPS is more of a aesthetic than anything else. I use Waze all the time personally, and love it.

Before I set up this HU the proper way, I had buyer's remorse. Now that it's set up active and time aligned, I am absolutely staggered. Helped me get over the cheap look. Hahaha!

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 13, 2015 2:26 pm 
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nos4blood70 wrote:
Yeah, with phone's these days, an in dash GPS is more of a aesthetic than anything else. I use Waze all the time personally, and love it.

Before I set up this HU the proper way, I had buyer's remorse. Now that it's set up active and time aligned, I am absolutely staggered. Helped me get over the cheap look. Hahaha!


Haha, it's always nice when things work out.


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 13, 2015 3:11 pm 
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I will be testing for a 12V wire in the harness this evening, so fingers crossed it works out. I will keep you guys posted. Basically, I need to find a wire that has no power to it when the car is off, and then 12V (or close to it??) running through it with key turned ON, correct?


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 13, 2015 5:43 pm 
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The wire should have no power when the key is out and the driver door has been opened. It should show 12v in ACC and ON, as well as upon removing the key, if you haven't opened any doors yet.

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PostPosted: Sun Mar 15, 2015 10:47 am 
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nos4blood70 wrote:
The wire should have no power when the key is out and the driver door has been opened. It should show 12v in ACC and ON, as well as upon removing the key, if you haven't opened any doors yet.


Ok. I sort of got rained out Friday evening so I am checking this stuff out today here a couple hours.

Also, this just now crossed my mind, but if you used a different harness, why did you end up running the power wire to your fuse box? Do the cheap harnesses have this (possible) mislabeled wires problem as well?


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 15, 2015 2:48 pm 
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Well, I've found no loose wires with a 12V charge... I checked the remote wires, parking break wire, and the illumination wire just to make sure and nothing was running through them either. This is just with the car on ACC power.. the engine is not running.


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 15, 2015 3:50 pm 
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So, I've gone and bought a fuse tap... I have 3 candidates for tapping... I have the IGN3 that nos used, I have an IGN SW (ignition switch I'm guessing) and I have a RAP fuse I can tap. I read somewhere online a little bit of ago (I will see if I can track it down again) that if I tap the RAP fuse that it will actually retain all of those features... Anyone know if this is accurate?

Anyway, which fuse would be the best bet to tap into for the 12v ignition switch wire?

Also, how exactly does the tap (actually, I think it is called an "add a fuse") work? Do I need to install a second 10A (or whatever AMP the stereo uses) on top of the 10A fuse that already belongs there for the stereo? The instructions on this thing isn't too clear.


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 16, 2015 9:49 am 
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And, any suggestions on what to use to cut out the plastic in the dash? I have access to a dremel but it doesn't seem like it will work very well as the saw blades would be vertical (flush with the plastic) instead of perpendicular for the blade's teeth to make contact with the plastic.


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 16, 2015 9:58 am 
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I used a saw blade for metal that I wrapped in a microfiber towel to save my hands. Required quite a bit of elbow grease, but it worked and there was no fear of my hand slipping and messing up the harness or anything. It was a dusty process though so I'd remove all your adapters and stuff to prevent it getting in them.

For tapping into the fuse, I literally used one of those little spade connectors and I jammed it in with fuse. Slightly ghetto, but completely functional. An Add a Fuse thing(not sure if the proper name) will work as well. I think you can get them at Advance or Autzone.

I can tell you right now that the IGN SW will not work, the radio will just stay on. I've tried that one before. Never tried the RAP fuse, so if you use that one, let me know how it goes. With the IGN3, the radio will only work in the ON position, or slightly between the ACC and the ON position. Kinda funny… The heated seats work in that middle ground as well, but nothing else does. Weird discoveries….

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 16, 2015 10:31 am 
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nos4blood70 wrote:
I used a saw blade for metal that I wrapped in a microfiber towel to save my hands. Required quite a bit of elbow grease, but it worked and there was no fear of my hand slipping and messing up the harness or anything. It was a dusty process though so I'd remove all your adapters and stuff to prevent it getting in them.


Sounds good. I was looking at a hand saw at Home Depot for like $10-15 wondering if it'd work. I found a bundle deal for $15 on Harbor Freight that seems a lot more logical, lol. I'm going to order one and see if I can grab it on my way home from work.

nos4blood70 wrote:
For tapping into the fuse, I literally used one of those little spade connectors and I jammed it in with fuse. Slightly ghetto, but completely functional. An Add a Fuse thing(not sure if the proper name) will work as well. I think you can get them at Advance or Autzone.


Yeah, I want to avoid the jamming the wire in method, lol. I figured if I'm going to do the fuse box thing that I'm already worried about doing, I should do it as clean as possible to keep my mind at ease. I don't want to take the chance of the wire pulling out or anything. I grabbed the "add a fuse" thing (http://www.summitracing.com/parts/pco-0 ... aQodtGoA1g), but there are two spots for two 10A fuses. I know I will have to put one in for the (let's say) RAP system that was there to begin with but I can't figure out if I have to add another one to account for the stereo. I want to think I do not since the stereo has its own fuse in the back of it, but again I'm not sure. Any ideas?

Also, I wondered why you had to tap into the fuse box if you used the cheap adapater? If its power/switch wire(s) didn't work and is the reason for the bypass, I'm starting to wonder if it is an issue with the car's harness and not any of the aftermarket stuff.

nos4blood70 wrote:
I can tell you right now that the IGN SW will not work, the radio will just stay on. I've tried that one before. Never tried the RAP fuse, so if you use that one, let me know how it goes. With the IGN3, the radio will only work in the ON position, or slightly between the ACC and the ON position. Kinda funny… The heated seats work in that middle ground as well, but nothing else does. Weird discoveries….


Ok. I will test the RAP fuse as long as it is a 10A or lower and give you my results. Hopefully it works out well because I would assume it activates with the key at the ACC position which I want the stereo to do. The "inbetween" stuff is exactly why I didn't want to run to the fuse box and hoped the harness was just mislabeled (although I didn't check the speaker wires for power - I'd hope they are actually correct).


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 16, 2015 11:51 am 
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Add another 10A in that spot, it won't hurt anything. Just extra insurance.

This seems to only be an issue with the SE/SLE models without the amplified system like the GXPs and SSEis all had. Not exactly sure why it is this way, but a couple of other members had this problem as well with their unamplified system.

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 16, 2015 12:25 pm 
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nos4blood70 wrote:
Add another 10A in that spot, it won't hurt anything. Just extra insurance.


Ok. That is what I wondered as well. If it would just act as another point of safety or a backup. So, that is good. I will do this.

nos4blood70 wrote:
This seems to only be an issue with the SE/SLE models without the amplified system like the GXPs and SSEis all had. Not exactly sure why it is this way, but a couple of other members had this problem as well with their unamplified system.


I was starting to wonder about this haha. I came across something somewhere online that mentioned there is no ignition switch running to the factory harness plug on some GM models or something to that effect. The switch power is run through another system in the car or something.. I will have to see if I still have the information pulled up on my laptop at home, but it got me wondering if this is true since you had to bypass your cheapo harness as well.


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 18, 2015 9:15 pm 
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So, I was talking with my stepdad the last night about this wiring harness... after chatting for a few minutes, I realized that I had not tested the black/orange striped wire for a current. So, I did so tonight and of course, nothing. Well, there is power going through it, but it only seems to about 5V. Remembering I read somewhere that some people are finding power through an orange wire (I'm can't remember if they were talking about the factory wiring or the harness(es) they are using), I re-tested the Dimmer wire and then I tested the Illumination wire. Dimmer has nothing going through it. However, the Illumination wire does have power running through it only when the ignition is on (car wasn't started, just ACC or whatever). It has about 10.8V running through it. I know it isn't reading 12V, but my battery wire doesn't read 12V either... it has about 11.75V (which I assumed was "close enough") running through it. Could the Illumination wire be my ignition switch wire? Or, is that wire supposed to have power running through it for the stereo's Illumination? Keep in mind, my multimeter is just like a $15 cheapo.


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 18, 2015 9:27 pm 
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Cheapo or not, it should read well enough. Wire it up and give it a shot. Sometimes wires are just mis-labeled or even left out.

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 18, 2015 9:37 pm 
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nos4blood70 wrote:
Cheapo or not, it should read well enough. Wire it up and give it a shot. Sometimes wires are just mis-labeled or even left out.


If I wire it up, how much of a chance am I taking at damaging the car's wiring, the harness or the stereo? And, does it matter that it isn't reading close to 12V (although 10.8V doesn't seem too far off..)


Also, another thought that crossed my mind tonight... What would happen if I run the power wire from the fuse box, but I included the 2 red switch wires on the GMOS harness? Would that provide the power they need to keep the RAP and chimes completely intact? Just a thought... figured I'd see what someone had to say about it.


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 19, 2015 10:41 pm 
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Well, the Illumination (orange) wire is about 3/4 worthy to use, haha. running the stereo power to it allows you control the radio with the switch that controls the headlights (or maybe the fog lights), but if you turn them off manually the HU shuts off.

So, I may check for a sunroof fuse (seen on some other forums) and wire to that... It is said that wiring to that taps into the RAP features since the windows (sunroof) are part of that setup. I do have a sunroof, so it is a matter of finding the fuse.


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 23, 2015 1:48 pm 
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So, I've had a chat with a couple local car audio places...

#1 said that they see these GMOS-05 adapters pretty often and that they always have to rip them out of the car and replace them with an adapter from PAC (the C2R-GM32R). They say this adapter's red switch wire(s) does work for the RAP features/accessory power. Is there really a difference between the PAC adapter and the Axxess adapter? I mean, has anyone had success with the PAC's red switch wires? They didn't say much about the car... they seemed to shy away from talking about the car's factory setup and didn't say anything about the issue of no accessory wire ran into the dock n lock ribbon connector.

#2 immediately told me I had to run my own accessory power when I mentioned a Bonneville. Then I said "well store #1 said the PAC adapter does have the red accessory/switch wire" and they kind of cut me off and said "yeah, that one works but it's $120..."

So, I believe I should just go through the BS of returning the GMOS-05 adapter and trying out the PAC adapter. Thoughts? Advice? It is all welcome!


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 23, 2015 2:29 pm 
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That decision is up to you. Are the chimes and RAP worth $120 to you? If yes, go for it! I have never heard of that PAC adapter, but I'm new to the audio game with Bonnevilles. Installing my unit was my first experience with installing and dealing with radios in these cars. Hopefully one of the old guard sees this and chimes in. Have you tried searching this section of the forum specifically for that adapter being used? Might lead to some clues.

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 23, 2015 2:40 pm 
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There is defiantly a harness that works without having to run your own wires as mine worked fine but i got the GMOS-09 for my bose system. Like carl said though is it worth 120 to you. And if the pac one doesn't work you can aleays return it.

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