I have searched a little bit (at work currently). I've seen it mentioned before on this forum and others over the last couple of weeks but never looked into it. After checking for about an hour today, it seems to work for people without any mention of re-routing the red switch/accessory wire. I plan to do whole lot of searching tonight because I don't want to run into the same issue and find out I can't return it (depending on the vendor I suppose - once opened, the audio store won't take it back I believe). But, Amazon actually has it (same part number and description but a different image than the PAC website) for about $60 as does Sonic Electronics. So, I want to check them out specifically cause I'd wait a few more days to get the extra $60 off, haha.

The chimes are worth it to me because I'd really like it make sure everything in the car works and communicates like the factory radio is still there, haha. It isn't necessarily the sounds I am in need of, it is more making sure the HU communicates with the car's computer/system normally. What I'm not looking forward to, is waiting for my money back from the RMA on the GMOS-05, haha. And, also I'm cutting it close with the return because the RMA label is good for 14 days after approved, which it was approved on either March 12 or 13. Testing the harness and different scenarios to hope it works took too long (kids are a time killer, haha).


EDIT:
Here is what I cannot figure out... maybe someone knows... what is the difference between

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_833 ... GM32R.html

and

http://www.pac-audio.com/productDetails ... ductId=164

They both have the same information, same part number, etc. but the modules are different.. One is black while the other is blue.

Well, the GMOS-05 is mailed. Just a matter of whether I spend $120 at the local audio store or if I spend $75 at Sonic Electronix, haha. I will keep you guys posted. I'd like to try out SE's adapter for so much cheaper, but I don't want to run into another RMA process and end up back at the local audio store haha.

Progress report...

Well, the stereo is in... For anyone looking to NOT tap existing 12V power sources (ignition wires, fuse box, etc.) the PAC C2R-GM32R http://www.pac-audio.com/productDetails ... ductId=164 works. It provides the 12V switch wire. I still have chimes and the RAP system is still intact. The only problem I ran into with this harness was that it has no Parking Brake wire for my DVD playing stereo to connect to allowing video playback (the stereo requires the parking brake to be on for this feature). Fortunately, there are some work around methods available for this that seems a lot less intrusive than the 12V switch power issue. I used a relay that enables a ground signal when switched on that tells the stereo that the "parking brake" is engaged. So, basically this lets me use the video features while parked or moving... I did this because I read that a lot of Bluetooth features can be disabled without the parking brake on, not because I'm dumb enough to watch movies while driving, haha.

Anyway, the stereo is in but the dash trim isn't sitting flush, although its VERY close. So, I believe I need to dremel out a bit more of the back wall for a tad more clearance as I have a teeny tiny gap between the dash mount kit and the trim. I believe it is just because the stereo isn't flush against the dash mount points and I just sort of forced it as much as possible but as I adjust the screws they try to pull the stereo from one side to the other. Another route I went that I didn't see much talk about... I removed the heated seats control and the HVAC control panels and ran my stereo wiring from underneath. So, my giant bundle of wires and modules (chimes and steering wheel) have a lot more room to breathe.

I will have to get pictures later, but I cut out a bit of the back wall to break loose the car's harness and the antennae hookup. I pulled the harness down into the back of the dash (behind the HVAC controls) and connected the PAC harness to it. Then I cut out a nice sized hole (maybe a little too large, but nothing seems to have lost durability) on the bottom of the stereo cavity and then I pushed the stereo harness plug up through the hole (from behind the HVAC controls cavity) and plugged in the stereo. This gave me a good bit of playing room to plug and unplug the stereo when needed. It also allows for more wiring... ie: USB wire, mic wire, rear view camera wire(s) (if ever used), etc.

All in all I'm pretty satisfied with the turnout. I'd say I'm now about 75% complete as I need to just adjust a few minor things above, figure out how to mount my USB port/wire from the stereo into the dash (clean and professionally), and install the steering wheel adapter (as I just wanted to get the stereo mounted finally). And, maybe fiddle with my relay setup as I got the right relay but it is a generic one and I basically have to reinsert a movie into the stereo before it will show video... I'm thinking maybe the disc insertion just has the stereo send a signal requesting the parking brake status so it may not be a relay issue since it won't just resume when I turn on the car... Perhaps the stereo thinks the parking brake is off until a DVD is inserted?? Something to figure out.

Oh, I'm down to subs and amp as well, but I found out that I'm getting water in the trunk and under the back seat. So, obviously no amp is going back there until this is cleared up. My parents told me they had this happen when they first bought the car and that the dealer said it is the sun roof drains so they are supposed to call them about it today. Any advice on that would be great, but I will probably start a new thread for it after I search around the net for this issue.

Thanks for all of the help and hopefully something in this essay of a progress report helps out someone else in the end!

Check out the 2000+ common problems for a solution to the trunk leaks. The trim on mine sits flush on the bottom of the stereo but the top side i have a 1/4 in gap. My stereo is also completely flush on the dash so you may not get it perfect.

_________________

-Austin-
1988 LE, Intercooled L67 loading......

2000 SSEi R.I.P. Dead now :( INTENSE FWI, polished LIM, P&P supercharger, custom radiator, standalone trans cooler, trans-go shift kit (donating to the 88)

2002 2500HD Silverado with the 8.1 Vortec and Alison tranny. Likes to eat GT Mustangs and lots of tires, and all while stock!

Congrats!

Under the back seat could be trunk, but might also be sunroof drains if your car is equipped as such.

_________________
-Car Guy Carl
"Penelope" - 2003 SLE - 247k Miles
"Sydney" - 2000 Honda S2000 - 98k miles

Will do on the leaks. Hopefully an easy, "one-time" fix haha. Apparently the dealer said they removed the drains and re-sealed the trunk with something, but it appears to have not held up.

Yeah, I didn't assume the stereo fit would be perfect. Where it is at now is actually pretty good, I just want to close the gaps in the dash trim. I want to get it flush and secured completely.

Thanks!

The car does have a sunroof, so I am assuming the back seat leaks are coming from it as well. I don't have any puddles under the seat, but all of the "cushioning pads" that line up under the back of the seat right up against the wall is wet. Not really soaked, but they seem to be getting pretty damp..