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PostPosted: Tue Jan 27, 2015 6:52 pm 
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Hello, all.

I've looked at all the posts regarding using aftermarket stereos with the stock speakers and amp but none of them touch on one thing: wiring the subwoofer lineout from the aftermarket stereo to the amp so you can control the rear 6x9 "subwoofers" like a real subwoofer (using the subwoofer volume adjust to change the "sub" 6x9s' volume). I've currently wired my aftermarket HU with the Metra Axxess ASWC-1 steering wheel controls adapter and Metra Axxess GMRC-04 wiring harness (plus the blue amp remote wire to the pink remote amp wire in the trunk) and everything works great. What I don't like, however, is that the 6x9 "subwoofers" in the rear deck are being affected by the low pass filter on the HU for the speakers due to them being treated like speakers on the 5th channel of the Bose amp.

What I want to do is run an RCA-to-speaker wire harness from the left and right subwoofer lineouts to the wires that run into the amp from the stock harness. I don't want to wire directly to the wires running from the amp to the 6x9s because then I lose the correct wattage from the amp to those speakers. I want to tap into the wires specific to those 6x9s so I can use the sub volume control on the HU to only affect the volume on the 6x9s while still getting amplified by the stock Bose amp. This will also get around the low pass frequency cutoff so I get those sub-50hz beats. Anyone know what wire that would be either at the stock harness in the dash or at the wire cluster going into the amp in the trunk?

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 29, 2015 11:56 pm 
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If you have the Bose, you need the GMOS-09 adaptor., not the GMOS-04 but since you got it to work, no need to change it. . The 2 subs are wires in series and I believe they are only 1 ohm impedence each. They are really crappy paper cone speakers. You can try wiring the sub speaker level output from your HU directly to the speakers and bypass the amp but if you only have line level output to the sub, you would have to add a separate amplifier. , It will sound a lot better if you replace them or put a 10" or 12" sub in the trunk with its own amp.

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 07, 2015 9:25 am 
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bobgto65 wrote:
If you have the Bose, you need the GMOS-09 adaptor., not the GMOS-04 but since you got it to work, no need to change it. . The 2 subs are wires in series and I believe they are only 1 ohm impedence each. They are really crappy paper cone speakers. You can try wiring the sub speaker level output from your HU directly to the speakers and bypass the amp but if you only have line level output to the sub, you would have to add a separate amplifier. , It will sound a lot better if you replace them or put a 10" or 12" sub in the trunk with its own amp.


Yeah I know it would sound a lot better with dedicated subs and an amp but I'm trying to avoid spending that kind of money right now. I suppose at the very least I could get a tiny amp for those stock subs and wire that tiny amp into the sub-out on the HU. It just sucks that there is a perfectly good stock amp, rated exactly for those subs that I just can't control with the sub controls of the HU because they are being treated like just another pair of speakers with the fronts and rears so they are subject to the same LPF cutoff as the rest of the speakers. :-k Do you know what the rating is on those rear deck "subs"? RMS wattage, peak wattage? I don't remember if they had any of that stamped on the their magnets.

Thanks for the input.

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 07, 2015 2:18 pm 
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I'm guessing it's not a lot of wattage, they're technically one sub, the way they're wired. I wouldn't waste your time with this honestly. Even a cheapo sub/box and amp will sound better than those toilet paper Bose speakers. The only thing you can really do is lower the low frequencies on the EQ if you need to quiet down those speakers.

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 13, 2015 3:19 pm 
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I have my stock speakers running off the bose amp.. sounds decent to me. If you want to run them off a separate amp you can do so.. Does your deck have 3 pre-outputs? if so that is the easiest way.. otherwise you can "Y" you pre-outs or run a Line converter off the speaker wires. the rear subs are very low Ohm rated... Like 1 Ohm ea. they are from the factory ran in series so that they carry a 2ohm Load IIRC.. so you will want to make sure your amp is 1-2ohm stable. i your amp is 1ohm stable then hook each speaker up to a channel, if your amp is 2ohm stable then leave them in series and bridge the amp so that you get both channels of sound to the subs. a small 30-50 watt amp will work perfectly. if the speakers are not going to work with what amp you have then you can also replace them.. 1 way 6x9" 4 ohm will be fine.. you can run them as L and R at 4 ohm ea or you can run in parallel down to 2 ohm. treat them like any other sub's that are stock 1ohm ea.. actually treat them more like a single sub with dual 1ohm voice coils. If you do this, let us know how it sounds.

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