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PostPosted: Fri Apr 01, 2011 11:45 pm 
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Joined: Tue May 27, 2008 10:30 pm
Posts: 20960
Location: MN/IA
Year and Trim: '17 Silverado 1500
So tonight I finally got my cable, was home and had time to install it. For those of you who aren't aware, adding an Aux-in on a XM equipped car is as easy as getting a cable and tapping into the appropriate wires in the XM module in the trunk. lewis26 did a great write-up, but never took any pics, so I solved that.

lewis26 wrote:

Now hawkjet and I had figured out a solution to keep both XM and an aux input on the old forum. Ill try to explain it here, and then post some pics later.

First thing you'll need is a headphone extension cable, about a 25ft. I got a panel mount one online, so that i could make it look almost factory. You'll need to remove interior pieces from where you plan to mount the jack, along with the back seat and trunk carpet on the left side.

Basically you'll need to run the cable from your mounting location (mine is in the ashtray), all the way through the car to the trunk XM module. This ran through the dash, along the floorboards, under the back seat, etc. Then when you get the end of the cable near the XM box, cut it off.

You'll then wire the cable in parallel with 3 wires from the XM stuff. The red wire goes to the Brown/white wire. The white wire goes to the green/white wire. The silver braided wire goes to the black/white common audio wire. This is all i had to do. I put the car back together and tested it out.

How it works:
So I turn my car on, and put it on XM radio. It finds a channel, and starts to play. Then when i plug in my ipod, for some reason the car senses the impedance change or something, because it lowers the volume of the XM channel, but you can still here it during quiet parts of your song. So you need to go to XM channel 0, the radio ID channel. So what i do is I have the number 6 preset to channel 1, and then seek down from there. And then if you wanna listen to normal XM, just unplug the ipod, and the Xm goes to normal volume.

It works like a dream. Beautiful quality, and sounds like a CD. Ill try to post a pic or 2 of the jack, but everything else is buried deep in the car. Please feel free to ask any questions.

So I got a 25' cable from ... cable.html . It cost $50, but still way cheaper than a HU or other setup that would probably suck worse.

Here are the few pics I have of my install. I removed the bezel around the gauges, HU, etc, the knee bolster, the b-pillar trim, the kick panels and the backseat in order to snake it through. This would've been much better to do when my interior is out, but this way wasn't terrible.

So here are my pics and my video:
Tie the cable around the shifter so you don't have to start over, lol
Pull it all the way through to make sure it's not dangling and doesn't get caught
After splicing, soldering and taping
Be sure to zip-tie the cable to the wire loom
All you see at the end when using a panel mount port, I'll grab a pic that doesn't suck in the morning. (Cable needs appx 3/8" hole, don't go too big, you can always step up another drill bit size, but it's hard to make a hole smaller :wink: )

How it works at the end (Ignore my idiocy as videographer, lol):

Bye Bye:
RIP sandrock
Sirius wrote:
Think about it. You’re tooling down the road in your Prius, knowing full-well that this thing being green is as big a sham as federally mandated ethanol-enriched gas, Russia pulling out of Ukraine, and Obamacare.

Last edited by 00Beast on Sat Apr 02, 2011 11:31 pm, edited 1 time in total.

PostPosted: Fri Feb 15, 2019 2:50 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jan 28, 2015 4:42 pm
Posts: 18
Year and Trim: 2003 SSEI
For anyone interested, I did this on my 2003 SSEi last weekend. I put the AUX port into the panel below the radio, to the left of the Driver's Seat Heater switch using this part.

I bought shielded headphone cable for the connection to protect from interference and rather than running the cable down the center of the car, I ran it across the dash below the steering wheel and up over the driver's side roof line, tucking it behind the rubber piece, then down behind the back seat and into the trunk area. It then runs behind the liner to the XM module.

I used crimp connectors in the trunk to attach to the XM lines (green/white is right, brown/white is left. I've found information that one of the black/white wires works for ground and that the other does not, but the first one I used worked fine so I went with it). I then soldered the other end and snapped it into place.

Finally, I installed a semi-permanent bluetooth adapter to play music from my phone. The hands-free function of these systems appears to be mostly junk. I'm toying with the idea of busting it open and seeing if I can wire the OnStar mic into it, but I'll save that for a day when I've got time to mess around. I attached it next to the key and tucked the wires behind the dash, bringing them out by the new headphone AUX jack and 12V car to USB adapter.

In terms of functionality, it operates really smoothly, if non-standard. Switching the radio to XM and playing content results in a strong AUX signal with a weak XM signal behind it. You can tune the XM station to the Channel ID (channel 0) and it will eliminate the noise.

I've noticed a few times I start my car and get some buzzing from the AUX channel. Still looking into this and also checking out whether the ground loop isolator that came with the bluetooth adapter helps.

PostPosted: Sun Feb 17, 2019 1:22 pm 
Resident Gearhead
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Joined: Wed Apr 01, 2009 7:11 pm
Posts: 2592
Location: Alberta, Canada
Year and Trim: 2004 GXP, 2008 STS, 2008 DTS
This sounds like it works okay (I've never done it to my car), but there's no need to run a cable all the way to the back of the car. There's a connector just under the steering wheel where the audio signals from the SDAR module/CDX connect to the instrument panel wiring harness. Glad it works, but those that have done this have really gone about it the hard way. It would actually be very easy to make and adapter that simply plugs in under the dash with the necessary audio cable attached to run a short distance over to the center console. I'd need to check, but there's probably another type of aux jack that would eliminate the need to specifically tune to channel 0 to cut out audio from either SDAR or CDX. This would be slightly more complex, but also probably not terrible.


Bose Luxury Sound System w/Touch Screen Navigation, Addition of Factory XM, 2005 MY Antenna, OnStar Upgrade (3G),
RainSense Wipers, Backup Camera, '00 Style Door Panel Courtesy Lights, Heated Washer Solvent, 2X Remote Trunk Release,
Turn Signal Mirrors, Center Console Courtesy Lamp, Rear Outboard Heated Seats, PVD Chrome 18" Factory Rims, Upgraded
Carbon Fibre Appearance Interior Trim, Highly Modified Main Body Harness, Instrument Panel, Door, Door Panel & Headliner
Wiring Harnesses, Custom Fuse Box & Tire and Loading Information Decals, Additional Acoustic Insulation

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