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 Post subject: Steering wheel controls
PostPosted: Sat Apr 03, 2010 2:12 am 
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I think I've brought this up once before, but it's been a long time and I never quite got the definitive answer I was looking for. Obviously I have steering wheel controls on my car, the radio has been changed to a 2001 production Monsoon CD Player from a Trans-Am with 12-cd changer in the trunk hooked to it (also stock to the Trans-Am)

This has perfectly plugged in and worked, except the steering wheel controls. I think I remember some statement somewhere of moving one pin to another, but I'm not quite sure. I want to start fresh, make sure what I'm doing, and try and make it work in the next few days. Ontop of this, the controls I know to be worn because you had to mash them and sometimes they'd work...obviously I'm aware that they have to be fixed in the normal manner that's been posted here already.

Can someone help me or guide me here to figuring out the controls to work with this head unit?

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PostPosted: Sat Apr 03, 2010 12:21 pm 
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For mine to work I had to wire in a peripheral switch, but I have an aftermarket 2-DIN, I'm not sure but maybe you would have to go the same way even though you have an OEM unit because it's wired for a different car

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PostPosted: Sun Apr 04, 2010 11:15 am 
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I know the wire switching deal applied to putting a 94+ radio into a 92-93 car. Not sure if it works for 00+.

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 05, 2010 11:34 pm 
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Yes, it will work for that radio. It's the same wiring plug as the 94-99's in the bonneville. The GP, Sunfire, and Firebird/ta kept the radio longer, through 2003 I believe.

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 05, 2010 11:35 pm 
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So do I need to change a wire? The steering wheel controls on a Trans-Am (where it came from) are different I thought?

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 07, 2010 4:09 pm 
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Forgot yours was a 95. Those should work straight with no change I thought. All 94-03 radios of that style used the same pin outs as far as i am aware.

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 08, 2010 12:00 am 
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Hmmm...doesn't seem to be :-(

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 08, 2010 1:20 am 
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Have you fixed the mashed button issue you talked about in the original post?

Can you feel the buttons clicking?

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 08, 2010 6:03 am 
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No, I haven't. Even at that, with the other radio (one that came with the car) I could get a response here or there. What I'll do today is pull the Monsoon radio out, put the tape deck one back in and verify I'm getting some response from the controls on the wheel. I thought we had concluded that there were differences in the wiring or frequencies used in the steering wheel controls, but now that I'm hearing there isn't a difference, I'll start diagnosing the controls themselves...

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 08, 2010 7:38 pm 
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Actually the controls go by resistance, not frequency. The CD player in my car came out of a 95 Grand Am, and though it looks identical to the 93 Bonneville CD player, the steering wheel buttons are different. My buttons all work (intermittently...it's all or nothing), but they do different functions than they are supposed to. Preset is seek up, seek up is seek down, AM/FM is Volume up, Volume up is Volume down, etc.

The biggest kicker is that the Pwr button on the steering wheel is now Mute, even though there was never a mute button on my wheel.

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Last edited by John Deere Boy on Thu Apr 08, 2010 7:43 pm, edited 2 times in total.

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PostPosted: Fri Apr 09, 2010 4:35 pm 
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Well I mashed them as hard as I can...lol...since they aren't perfect but I got nothing, I still have yet to throw the tapedeck in to check, weather has been lousy all day.

If it's running on resistance, then couldn't I get a wheel from a Trans-Am and rewire/solder the resistors in place of mine for functions or is it not that simple?

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PostPosted: Fri Apr 09, 2010 10:55 pm 
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I thought about doing the same thing, but the resistors are tiny. It will take a surgeon's touch. I'm not sure that the resistors are your only problem anyway.

Do the toothpick mod on the buttons to fix that aspect. The buttons feel nice and clicky once you put the toothpicks in.

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Last edited by John Deere Boy on Fri Apr 09, 2010 10:57 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Fri Apr 09, 2010 10:57 pm 
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Yeah, it's just a thought, I'm living fine without them....but they are there...light up nice, and would make life far more convenient if they actually worked..

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PostPosted: Fri Apr 09, 2010 11:09 pm 
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It's times like this that i curse Peter T. Davis. There were entire threads about this on the old site.

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PostPosted: Sat Apr 10, 2010 2:43 pm 
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Toothpick Mod?

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PostPosted: Sat Apr 10, 2010 2:52 pm 
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Well, that'll fix the buttons themselves, what I'm worried about is them actually controlling the Monsoon CD Player since it came out of a Trans-Am. It looks exactly like every one you've seen without the "Monsoon" labeling, 7-band eq, same as the Tape that came with my car, just CD...and it also controls the 12-CD Changer that's in my trunk also from a Trans-Am (One of the main reasons I picked this).

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PostPosted: Sat Apr 10, 2010 3:14 pm 
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Sadden wrote:
Toothpick Mod?


Quote:
How to Fix 92-95 Steering wheel controls

For those who have 'mushy' controls, non-working controls, or controls that seem to degrade their sensitivity with higher temperatures, this procedure is for you:

To remove the controls:

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Pull the SIR fuse from the main fuse panel.
3. Remove 4 torx screws from back of steering wheel.
4. Disconnect the horn, stereo control, and SIR connectors.

NOTE: Disconnect the copper spade terminal from the back of the airbag assembly when disconnecting the horn. The other end (down in the column) is very fragile and brittle.

5. Remove the airbag assembly.
6. Remove the backing plate from the airbag assembly (4 screws to the assembly, 2 each to each stereo control pod).

At this point, you can remove the piece of tape on the control harness, and you have both pods and the harness seperated. Remove the 2 nuts on each assembly VERY carefully. DON'T open the pods yet.

At this point, you have a decision to make. Repair the old rubber pins, or replace them with round toothpicks. If you're going back to nature with the wood, cut round toothpicks to the same length as the rubber pins. Cut both tapered ends off in the process. If you're repairing the original rubber pins, follow on:

Get something like a large bowl to open the pods over. Small parts like to drop out. After opening the pods, you'll see 4 small rubber pins in the button half of the assembly. These need to be removed. Gently tap them upside down, if that doesn't work, use a straight pin to gently coax them out, but only from the small center hole, not the outer perimeter.

After all 8 pins have been removed, inspect the small end for 'mushrooming' or fraying. Carefully trim any of this off, leaving a small chamfer around the small end face. Clean all 8 pins with rubbing alcohol, and wash your hands. No oils or grease for awhile.

Mix up a small batch of JB weld or similar epoxy that is known to work on rubber. Gently dip the small end of each rubber pin in the jb weld, and stand them upright to dry. Don't allow any of the epoxy to drip down the sides of the pins, or they won't fit back in the pods later.

Also apply a small amount of jb weld to the microswitches in the pods. All 8 of them.

What you've just done is made up for any shrinkage, and prevented them from 'giving' too much when depressed. Wait a full 6 hours for the jb weld to fully cure. Prior to assembly, lightly coat each pin with a silicone or Teflon lubricant that is known to work on plastic and rubber parts.

Re-assemble in the reverse order.


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 11, 2010 12:28 am 
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Now that's useful.
Thanks.

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PostPosted: Sun Apr 11, 2010 10:52 am 
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If they're not 'mushy' all the way, I simply apply a little JB Weld to the tip of the existing rubber piece. I did that on both cars (the ZiLLA back in 2002). I think that's where the toothpick mod evolved out of. It's easy and simple. Choose your method on the amount of 'mushy'.

It's best to apply a light coat of silicone spray to the parts before reassembly.

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