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PostPosted: Tue May 19, 2009 7:18 pm 
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Year and Trim: 2002 Bonneville SSEi
I'm updating the stereo in my 02 SSEi w/ Monsoon. Factory radio sounds like crap, and one of the front woofers was torn or something (making some nasty sounds). Got a Pioneer 6000ub HU, Alpine Type X front components (spx-17ref), 100w x 2 hifonics amp (txi4008) to run the comps, and I'm running two sealed Alpine Type S 12's w/ 600Wrms that I've had for a while. Not using any rear fill. I started deadening the front doors today, and I installed the sound diffusers as well (didn't realize the front woofer mounted to the door panel and not the actual door frame. Don't know if I'm crazy about that, but don't want to put a ton of work in making custom mounts and whatnot). Gonna dremel the factory tweeter area a bit and mount the new tweeters there.

So, now for my question. For any of you guys that have run aftermarket speakers in the front doors, is there a special trick you have to run the wires thru the stock rubber boots? I only spent about 20 minutes trying to fish a wire thru, and just couldn't get it. It doesn't help that inside the car, there is a rubber panel that totally blocks any access to the whole area where the parking brake is. I'm guessing that I'm going to have to remove a bunch of crap in that area to get to it, but if there's an easier way to get to it, I'd be glad to hear it. Haven't decided where I'm going to mount the crossover (it's pretty big w/ these type X comps) but I'm guessing I'm going to have two sets of wires going through the boot of each door w/ the crossover somewhere else in the car.

On another note, I'm not using any module for the chimes as of yet. I got a regular, non-premium harness to see if I could make that work, or I'll just wire the HU up from scratch. Don't care too much about chimes or RAP. I've heard about it affecting the air bags, but I don't know if I believe that. Not going to worry about the steering wheel controls either.

Sorry about the long post too. I've read a lot of threads on this and another bonneville forum, and think I have a pretty good idea on what I'm doing. Only had the Bonnie for a couple weeks, and so far I like it overall. Some stuff that needs done still, though. Just thought I'd ask this, and I may run into a problem or two along the way that you bonneville pros may have encountered before.

Thanks for any help.


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PostPosted: Tue May 19, 2009 7:42 pm 
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With the harness you have, you will need to A) run a fuse from the back block for the remote turn on, or B) run the remote turn on from the ignition wire. Good luck running all of your wires. My installer will be doing this for me Friday so I'll take pics and pick his brain and relay the info

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Bugsi " then you could achieve that with fewer subs and still have (some) trunk space left over to carry groceries/body parts/etc"


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PostPosted: Tue May 19, 2009 8:12 pm 
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There is no easy way but you've got it better than the folks with a 2000-01 Bonneville. Just pop the boot out. If I'm not mistaken the 2002+ should be relatively easy. I know the 2003+ for sure have a different style boot in the door jamb. You're going to need to move your park brake pedal out of the way for access to the driver side. This isn't hard though, just 3 nuts/bolts.

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PostPosted: Tue May 19, 2009 9:11 pm 
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I pulled the boot out fairly easily. Fishing it through the boot is tough because the boot is fairly full and it turns. Not much room to straighten it out. I guess I'll pull the parking brake and all that tomorrow and spend some quality time trying to get it fished through.

I figure I'll tap the ignition for the remote turn on, run a fused wire from the batt. for the cont. power, and ground it somewhere behind the dash.

I'm a bit concerned about the woofer mounting to the door panel, though. I put a fair amount of deadener around it, but I'm worried it's not solid enough. I guess I'll find out.


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PostPosted: Tue May 19, 2009 9:14 pm 
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If you squish the folds together as much as possible, you may have better luck. You can also attach the wires to the end of a small piece of coat hanger. This may help you to guide them through. Be sure to bend over the tip you push through though to avoid damaging the boot.

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PostPosted: Wed May 20, 2009 10:02 am 
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rmac694203 wrote:
I'm a bit concerned about the woofer mounting to the door panel, though. I put a fair amount of deadener around it, but I'm worried it's not solid enough. I guess I'll find out.


If you are worried about rattling or extra noise dont be. Put them in just the way you found the factory speakers and rattling, and other noises will be minimum to non exisistent. IF you do get a rattle by chance, check for clearance between the speaker grill and the speaker

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2 12" Pioneer Premiers in a vented box $350.00
2200 watt comp mono amp $200.00
7 inch Power Akoustic touchscreen 400.00
Setting off countless car alarms and making my passengers ears bleed... PRICELESS

Bugsi " then you could achieve that with fewer subs and still have (some) trunk space left over to carry groceries/body parts/etc"


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PostPosted: Wed May 20, 2009 10:37 am 
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01bonne wrote:
rmac694203 wrote:
I'm a bit concerned about the woofer mounting to the door panel, though. I put a fair amount of deadener around it, but I'm worried it's not solid enough. I guess I'll find out.


If you are worried about rattling or extra noise dont be. Put them in just the way you found the factory speakers and rattling, and other noises will be minimum to non exisistent. IF you do get a rattle by chance, check for clearance between the speaker grill and the speaker

I'm more worried about the surface not being rigid/solid enough to give good bass response. Thinking that the woofer would mount to the door frame, I got some mdf rings and was going to use some non-hardening clay around and under the ring to make a very solid, deadened area to mount the woofer. I ended up mounting the woofer in the factory location with deadener on the panel, and some closed-cell foam between the speaker and the factory mounting place.


Last edited by rmac694203 on Wed May 20, 2009 10:38 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Sun May 24, 2009 3:01 pm 
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I got the wires through fine. Used a coat hanger and some soap and just had to wiggle and bend for a while to get it through. Got my HU in as well. I got the antenna adapter, but it doesn't seem to work. The cord coming out of my HU doesn't have the right plug to connect to the adapter. I got the VW 21 I think it was. Kinda irritating because it took a few tries to get the HU to snap in all the way and now I have to take it out again.

I think I may just spring for the extra harness for the chimes and RAP and 12v accessory wire. I used the cig lighter for now, but I'm not crazy about it staying on for a few minutes. Do you guys think the PAC gm32 one is better than the GMOS-09 one? It's a bit cheaper, and I don't care about Onstar.


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PostPosted: Mon May 25, 2009 8:07 pm 
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rmac694203 wrote:
I got the wires through fine. Used a coat hanger and some soap and just had to wiggle and bend for a while to get it through. Got my HU in as well. I got the antenna adapter, but it doesn't seem to work. The cord coming out of my HU doesn't have the right plug to connect to the adapter. I got the VW 21 I think it was. Kinda irritating because it took a few tries to get the HU to snap in all the way and now I have to take it out again.

I think I may just spring for the extra harness for the chimes and RAP and 12v accessory wire. I used the cig lighter for now, but I'm not crazy about it staying on for a few minutes. Do you guys think the PAC gm32 one is better than the GMOS-09 one? It's a bit cheaper, and I don't care about Onstar.


if i were you ill use the GMOS-09
check my thread i used both..
pac wasnt even close to the GMOS-09

do you have any pics of the dash and how you trimmed it?

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PostPosted: Tue May 26, 2009 11:20 am 
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SAMzGXP wrote:
rmac694203 wrote:
I got the wires through fine. Used a coat hanger and some soap and just had to wiggle and bend for a while to get it through. Got my HU in as well. I got the antenna adapter, but it doesn't seem to work. The cord coming out of my HU doesn't have the right plug to connect to the adapter. I got the VW 21 I think it was. Kinda irritating because it took a few tries to get the HU to snap in all the way and now I have to take it out again.

I think I may just spring for the extra harness for the chimes and RAP and 12v accessory wire. I used the cig lighter for now, but I'm not crazy about it staying on for a few minutes. Do you guys think the PAC gm32 one is better than the GMOS-09 one? It's a bit cheaper, and I don't care about Onstar.


if i were you ill use the GMOS-09
check my thread i used both..
pac wasnt even close to the GMOS-09

do you have any pics of the dash and how you trimmed it?

Yeah, I read your thread. Seems the quality on the GMOS is better? Stil have to decide if it's worth 30 extra bucks. Don't care about onstar, the quality of the chime sound doesn't bother me too much (if they're annoying, I'll throw some foam over the speaker on the module or something so it's quiet). I'm mainly concerned with the 12v Acc turn on. I tapped the cig lighter for mine and it stays on after the car is off. I checked a bunch of fuses and they all seemed to stay hot like the cig lighter did. I read about using the ignition wire, but didn't check it at the time because I didn't really feel like taking more dash apart that day.

Do you know how the chimes come out of the speakers on the Metra module? The reason I ask, is because I'm not using any factory speaker wire. I have two sets of RCAs coming out of the HU, one for the subs and one for the 2 channel amp running my new front components. The speaker leads coming out of the HU are not being used. So if the GMOS uses those for the chime, it wouldn't work for me.

I didn't take any pics of where I trimmed. There is a thread on here with pics and I just trimmed where he said. It's this one viewtopic.php?f=13&t=7319


Last edited by rmac694203 on Tue May 26, 2009 11:23 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Tue May 26, 2009 12:30 pm 
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i really didnt care much for the onstar because i never use it.. but i just like doing it right..

as for the 12v acc turn on why dont you use "add-a-circuit" from your inside fuse box and itll work only when you turn it on instead of tapping it on the sig lighter

and as for the chimes.. they come out of the driver's door's speakers on the GMOS-09 vs they come out of the harness on the PAC one

and remember.. i wasnt taking only about the sound quality of the chimes.. i also talked about the sound quality of the HU.. i swear it was nowhere near the same

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PostPosted: Tue May 26, 2009 12:32 pm 
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not to argue, however i have the pac c2r-gm32r and have no sounds quality issues out of mine. and I am very picky with my stereo sound

however the chime is annoying, I wound up taping over the buzzer

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PostPosted: Tue May 26, 2009 1:05 pm 
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There's no way sound quality would change with the module, at least in my situation. Like I said, I've got sound coming out of the HU directly to some aftermarket amps running to new speakers w/ new speaker wire.

What fuse should I tap? I swear, I tapped like 8 fuses in the rear checking for one that was switched with the ignition, and I couldn't find one. They all seemed to stay hot after the ignition was off, just like the cig lighter does.


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PostPosted: Tue May 26, 2009 2:06 pm 
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There is one line coming out of the rear fuse block referred to as IGN 3 voltage (IIRC). I don't have an FSM here (I'm at work) but I can tell you it's a brown wire running into the bottom of the block (there aren't that many there). This may be of limited help because I believe it's only hot when the key is in the ON position (not ACCY). This line is used to signal several of the modules in the vehicle that the key is ON. It should be used for signalling only as it isn't a circuit rated to supply a lot of current.

If you think this will work for you I'll try and find more specific information about which wire it is exactly.

In the 2K+ Bonneville it's important to remember that there is power supplied all the time to virtually every module. Between class 2 communications and the IGN 3 signal modules know when they are allowed to be active. There is very limited "switched power".

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RainSense Wipers, Backup Camera, '00 Style Door Panel Courtesy Lights, Heated Washer Solvent, 2X Remote Trunk Release,
Turn Signal Mirrors, Center Console Courtesy Lamp, Rear Outboard Heated Seats, PVD Chrome 18" Factory Rims, Upgraded
Carbon Fibre Appearance Interior Trim, Highly Modified Main Body Harness, Instrument Panel, Door, Door Panel & Headliner
Wiring Harnesses, Custom Fuse Box & Tire and Loading Information Decals, Additional Acoustic Insulation


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