Since I'm going to be redoing the LIM gaskets, I figured that now would be a good time to replace the water pump. I'm going to stay away from a remanufactured one after a very bad experience but does anyone have any recommendations, good or bad, on brands to consider?

The OEM Napa brand is OK.

I like my electric Meziere but it's far more expensive.

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2000 SSEi - SilverBullet - 78,000 kms, 4" "straight shot" custom headlight ram air inlet, TOGs, 1.9's, Lsd, 2.9-3.4"MPS 10-15 psi, Ported GenV, EGR eliminated, OR pushrods, oil volume kit, trani cooler & shift kit, Titanium retainers, 90 lb springs, 160 Stat, 42# injectors, Fuel pump voltage increase, Wideband O2, 3" to dual 2 1/2" Magnaflows, Snow Meth/water injection, after SC temp gauge, 255/50WR17, timing commander set 15-18*@WOT, 2 speed Fan over-ride, disabled DRL, Solid motor mount, Meziere Electric water pump, adjustable fuel pressure regulator, Drilled & slotted rotors/ceramics, GXP sway bars and STB, Upgraded and rebuilt transmission with ZZP 2500 rpm stall TC, Pioneer Bluetooth stereo with sub and 800 W amps, PB 13.5 quarter, (April 2014 car of the month)

What should a new one cost, and about how much labor?
Thanks,
Bill

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2001 SE
130,000 miles. All but 11,000 are mine.
Want to drive it another 130,000! Any tips are welcome.

After doing some investigating, gmpartsdirect wanted $72.43+shipping whereas Rock Auto wanted $29.99+shipping for an AC Delco unit. I'm in the middle of installing the Rock Auto one now and as a guess, the difference in price comes from the difference between the gmpartsdirect unit being the entire pump including the part of the casing that's bolted to the block and the Rock Auto unit is just the part with the bearing, impeller and seal on it. Since that's the only part of the pump with parts that wear, I saw no need to buy the complete pump.
To get the piece out, however, pulley #9 has to come off for bolt clearance. So that I don't break something, can someone tell me which direction I need to turn the torx bolt on the pulley?

Yes the Napa brand is actually an AC Delco unit and it cost me $75. for the 94 which is identical to the 00 unit.

What torx bolt are you talking about?

I would never rebuild one myself. The tolerances of the mechanical seal are far too sensitive and easily damaged.

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2000 SSEi - SilverBullet - 78,000 kms, 4" "straight shot" custom headlight ram air inlet, TOGs, 1.9's, Lsd, 2.9-3.4"MPS 10-15 psi, Ported GenV, EGR eliminated, OR pushrods, oil volume kit, trani cooler & shift kit, Titanium retainers, 90 lb springs, 160 Stat, 42# injectors, Fuel pump voltage increase, Wideband O2, 3" to dual 2 1/2" Magnaflows, Snow Meth/water injection, after SC temp gauge, 255/50WR17, timing commander set 15-18*@WOT, 2 speed Fan over-ride, disabled DRL, Solid motor mount, Meziere Electric water pump, adjustable fuel pressure regulator, Drilled & slotted rotors/ceramics, GXP sway bars and STB, Upgraded and rebuilt transmission with ZZP 2500 rpm stall TC, Pioneer Bluetooth stereo with sub and 800 W amps, PB 13.5 quarter, (April 2014 car of the month)

It's #9 in this diagram.
search.php?keywords=dayco&terms=any&author=&fid%5B%5D=18&sv=0&sc=1&sf=all&sk=t&sd=d&sr=posts&st=0&ch=300&t=0&submit=Search

Agreed on rebuilding the seal. This unit comes with everything assembled and just has to be bolted to the casing that stays on the block.

I was able to get it off. Righty, tighty applies on this one.


Original


New

Note the difference in the impeller. The vanes on the new one are much thicker and longer.

That is exactly what my Meziere looks like.
It's a much better design that will have much more flow at whatever rpm it runs at.
That is not an OEM water pump. What is the part number?

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2000 SSEi - SilverBullet - 78,000 kms, 4" "straight shot" custom headlight ram air inlet, TOGs, 1.9's, Lsd, 2.9-3.4"MPS 10-15 psi, Ported GenV, EGR eliminated, OR pushrods, oil volume kit, trani cooler & shift kit, Titanium retainers, 90 lb springs, 160 Stat, 42# injectors, Fuel pump voltage increase, Wideband O2, 3" to dual 2 1/2" Magnaflows, Snow Meth/water injection, after SC temp gauge, 255/50WR17, timing commander set 15-18*@WOT, 2 speed Fan over-ride, disabled DRL, Solid motor mount, Meziere Electric water pump, adjustable fuel pressure regulator, Drilled & slotted rotors/ceramics, GXP sway bars and STB, Upgraded and rebuilt transmission with ZZP 2500 rpm stall TC, Pioneer Bluetooth stereo with sub and 800 W amps, PB 13.5 quarter, (April 2014 car of the month)

Can you explain how you did that.?

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2000 SSEi - SilverBullet - 78,000 kms, 4" "straight shot" custom headlight ram air inlet, TOGs, 1.9's, Lsd, 2.9-3.4"MPS 10-15 psi, Ported GenV, EGR eliminated, OR pushrods, oil volume kit, trani cooler & shift kit, Titanium retainers, 90 lb springs, 160 Stat, 42# injectors, Fuel pump voltage increase, Wideband O2, 3" to dual 2 1/2" Magnaflows, Snow Meth/water injection, after SC temp gauge, 255/50WR17, timing commander set 15-18*@WOT, 2 speed Fan over-ride, disabled DRL, Solid motor mount, Meziere Electric water pump, adjustable fuel pressure regulator, Drilled & slotted rotors/ceramics, GXP sway bars and STB, Upgraded and rebuilt transmission with ZZP 2500 rpm stall TC, Pioneer Bluetooth stereo with sub and 800 W amps, PB 13.5 quarter, (April 2014 car of the month)

What is in the pictures is bolted to the back of the pump with 4 smaller bolts and there are 4 larger through bolts that bolt the back of the pump to the block.
I thought everything was smooth sailing until I tried to get the rear valve cover off. There is one bolt to the driver's side of the lifting bracket that is just giving me fits and in fact, I gave up for the night.

Get a U-joint for a 3/8" ratchet, and attach a short 3/8 socket, get it on there, hook an extension to the u-joint, and it comes out. I just did this a few weeks ago.

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Bye Bye:

RIP sandrock

Rock Auto showed it as AC Delco 252693.

After more than an hour of total frustration in trying everything, I finally took off the bracket(which took all of 5 minutes) and in another 2 minutes had the valve cover off. When I went to reinstall the cover, I looked in the Tech Info section for the torque specs and lo and behold, Bill Buttermore had an excellent writeup on removing the valve covers. In it, he suggested removing the bracket so I would have saved myself a lot of grief had I looked there first.

I left the bracket on. Makes it easier to remove the engine if you ever need to. I just used a swivel on a ratchet and it worked awesome. To each his own, I guess. That bracket does make the back plugs a pain, though.

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Bye Bye:

RIP sandrock