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PostPosted: Thu Apr 09, 2020 4:58 pm 
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Year and Trim: 2000 SE, transg kit & B&M trans cooler
Car has 146,xxx miles. Started getting couple electrical quirks then came the real pain of a drain on the battery. First the security light started coming on more often. Then the car wouldn't start if turn the key normal and i learned if I turn it to on and let the cluster cycle first it will start after that.

Changed ignition switch after the not normal start issue, which changed nothing, the couple months later the parasitic draw.

Tried taking radio out with no luck.

Last fall tried to find by doing amp draw with meter. Pulled all fuses no change in draw on first try. Actually before that checked alt. So try some more then it don't show a draw, intermittent too. Car sat all winter, which it usually does. Last week tried new test checking milliamps across the fuses. Found the audio fuse to show 3 milliamps after car timed out, climbing threw window to not trigger lights( don't know how to turn off). Pulled fuse then after few days car no start not even juice for lights. Check fuses 3 different times no draw shown. I like this method as it doesn't change things when looking, like the pull fuse method does.

I can't think of anything else except to just keep looking, also the charger has been on threw the last 3 checks so it could affect it, but haven't seen a draw any where else before. If security issue is related not sure what can be done to correct it

Thanks if you read all this, if any ideas that would be great


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 10, 2020 12:14 pm 
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Was just reminded last year when hooking up battery the car alarm came on and didn't want to shot off till started car. It just did this when hooking up meter to read amps at battery but just one honk then the flashers came on for almost a minute.

Note battery is fully charged and held all night with no drop in voltage unhooked to car. Right now it is showing .01 amp draw.


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 10, 2020 9:17 pm 
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Year and Trim: 2003 Pontiac Bonneville SSEI
I have one of these at the shop I partner at with a friend on the weekends. It helps track down current draws like you are having and you don't have to worry about frying a fluke meter etc because you went past the 10amp max most meters have.

https://www.amazon.com/305M-Fuse-Buddy-Mini-Tester/dp/B000W8FMXU

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PostPosted: Sat Apr 11, 2020 2:33 am 
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You can't accurately track down parasitic draw in these cars until all the modules on the data bus enter sleep mode. There is a process to follow and you need to use a parasitic draw test switch such as the one from Amazon (below) so you can connect a meter inline with the negative battery cable once all the modules go to sleep. Every time you remove and reconnect the battery cable, all the modules wake up. Similarly, once you pull a fuse to check for current drop, you can't reinstall it until you've pulled every fuse in the vehicle. If you plug a fuse back in before completing the procedure, any that provide power to a class 2 module will cause it to wake up which will affect your results and ability to find a fault. In order for the modules to enter sleep mode, you need to remove the key from the ignition and wait about 20 minutes. Don't open or close any doors or this will cause modules to become active. I suggest leaving the left rear door open so you can access the rear seat fuse block. Even with the rear door open, everything will shut down within the roughly 20 minute time window. If you do anything to cause activity on the data bus, you'll need to start again by waiting for everything to shut down. Once everything is shut down, you'll normally see (as I recall) about a 20-30mA draw as the modules don't actually power off, they just enter a reduced power mode. 3mA from the radio I believe is fine, which is why pulling it didn't solve the problem.

If you have any aftermarket electronics, I would start by disconnecting those first. Parasitic draw is not a common problem on a stock Bonneville.

https://www.amazon.com/OTC-Tools-OTC694 ... 298&sr=1-7

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PostPosted: Sat Apr 11, 2020 6:06 pm 
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Year and Trim: 2000 SE, transg kit & B&M trans cooler
thanks ddadler.

What I did yesterday was put the amp meter inline and after it all shut down I never got more than .03 amps( is 30MA ?) watching up to 20 minutes. From what your saying is it must have hard wire hooked up then first then meter hooked up after that unhook hard wire. maybe this can cause a difference. Was thinking about getting a meter with memory, so looks like Ill either have to make one of the switched wires or buy the one in your link.

Today I switched the battery out of my truck to rule battery out, but it looks like the car is pulling it down after 10 hours @ 12.3v

Here is the meter I'm looking at, which I already have two meters with out memory.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/OWON-B35T-mult ... sPageName=

edit:ordered a switch


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PostPosted: Sat Apr 11, 2020 6:35 pm 
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JEFFSSSEI wrote:
I have one of these at the shop I partner at with a friend on the weekends. It helps track down current draws like you are having and you don't have to worry about frying a fluke meter etc because you went past the 10amp max most meters have.

https://www.amazon.com/305M-Fuse-Buddy-Mini-Tester/dp/B000W8FMXU


That does look pretty cool and I did go over 10 for a split second testing to see if it worked,forget what i turned on. The gage i'm thinking of getting goes to 20. Figured i'd try ddadler's tester first and if it don't help me out at least I can use it to disconnect battery :banghead: . Found a refurbished one on ebay for about $30 shipped.


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PostPosted: Sat Apr 11, 2020 10:48 pm 
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Year and Trim: 2004 GXP, 2008 STS, 2008 DTS
Here's a diagram of the parasitic draw test switch.

Image

To use it, place it inline with the negative battery cable. Make sure the knob is closed (turned all the way clockwise). This represents what you see in the first diagram. This allows for normal current to flow through the circuit, just as if it wasn't in the circuit at all. Your current meter connects to the switch on either side of the knob. As you can see in the first diagram, this shorts out the meter and current will flow through the switch, not the meter.

Once the car sits and all the modules shut down, turn on your meter and set it to measure amps (use the high current probe position and ideally, set the meter to autorange). Next, open the switch on the parasitic draw adapter by turning it counterclockwise. Since you will already have connected your meter across the switch, current will now flow through your meter without breaking the circuit. This ensures all the modules remain in sleep mode.

Note the initial current draw. Don't open any doors or do anything to cause the vehicle to "wake up". Pull each fuse in both electrical centers one at a time. DO NOT replace the fuse until after you have pulled every fuse out. Note the current on the meter each time. Watch for any circuit that shows a significant drop in current draw. If you find one, this may be the suspected problem.

BE SURE TO CLOSE THE SWITCH ON THE PARASITIC DRAW ADAPTER BEFORE DOING ANYTHING THAT MAY WAKE UP MODULES OR BEFORE STARTING THE VEHICLE. YOU MAY DAMAGE YOUR METER IF YOU FAIL TO DO THIS.

0.03A is 30mA, which is more at the high end of what I'd suspect (but not by too much). Keep in mind, there may be an intermittent problem. Let's hope not, because that will be much harder to track down.

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Bose Luxury Sound System w/Touch Screen Navigation, Addition of Factory XM, 2005 MY Antenna, OnStar Upgrade (3G),
RainSense Wipers, Backup Camera, '00 Style Door Panel Courtesy Lights, Heated Washer Solvent, 2X Remote Trunk Release,
Turn Signal Mirrors, Center Console Courtesy Lamp, Rear Outboard Heated Seats, PVD Chrome 18" Factory Rims, Upgraded
Carbon Fibre Appearance Interior Trim, Highly Modified Main Body Harness, Instrument Panel, Door, Door Panel & Headliner
Wiring Harnesses, Custom Fuse Box & Tire and Loading Information Decals, Additional Acoustic Insulation


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 17, 2020 3:10 pm 
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Year and Trim: 2000 SE, transg kit & B&M trans cooler
Received the test switch today. Really no change in the readings I was getting before, .01. Went for ride came back, one thing I noticed when turning switch on and off I get a relay in the car that clicks, this is with the meter on, also the dash does some cycle thing when switch is closed.

So I feel for the relay that is clicking, which never could tell which one was, or do I know if its normal. Notice one that is warm, it goes to the seat, I thought this all to be odd as never made any adjustments to seat for a long time. pulled seat so could unplug it and doing the wait to see if drains again. The meter has gone from .01 to 0.00 , so I'm thinking that's a good sign. Could see nothing wrong with wires that go to seat, seat was in all the way back position, maybe it was still trying to move.

If this is not it will be ordering the better meter.

Also changed that relay.

P.S. half hour later battery still appears to be draining, just unhooked alt.

40 minutes later after unhooking alt. the voltage has now gone up on battery, leads me to be leave it could be alternator.


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 29, 2020 10:33 am 
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Car drained battery after 4 days, so ordered a meter with memory & blue tooth.


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PostPosted: Tue May 05, 2020 6:58 pm 
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Got my gauge and still not seen amp draw after two hours just watching meter max never went over 1.8 mA. Was going to go for a ride and now alternator not working. Got one from junk and its not working thinking I might of done something. Will try to get alt going tomorrow. Then back to the draw.

I did drive this car all over yesterday.

A strange thing happened when I put a fuse back it went in a spot that doesn't get used but the day running lights came on till I pulled fuse, while the battery was unhooked with the switch. Don,t no where the power could come from.


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PostPosted: Wed May 06, 2020 10:59 am 
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I think I've done something to the charging system (maybe ECM). Put known good alternator in and still no charge. Checked all fuses and are good. I'm at at loss. Car does run just no charge as of yesterday.


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PostPosted: Wed May 06, 2020 2:20 pm 
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On the alternator plug I would check for +12V at terminal D and if there's any voltage (up to 5V) at terminal B while running. You can also check continuity between pin 61 at the PCM and terminal B at the alternator. Move the harness around while checking to test for intermittent issues.

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PostPosted: Wed May 06, 2020 9:48 pm 
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thanks 95... I'll try that.

Earlier I used a test light to trigger the alt. on the L terminal and the alt starting charging.

I think the L terminal is B on your pic.

Is the PCM in or under the air box.


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PostPosted: Wed May 06, 2020 10:59 pm 
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Yep, in the airbox.

If you used a +12v test light to excite that terminal with everything plugged in, that could have compounded the problem. That's a 5v circuit from the PCM. Sending +12v to the PCM could have hurt it. Terminal D is the only +12v terminal on that plug.

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95 SLE... a keeper. 241k miles. Low and Slow.
97 BMW 528i
98 Infiniti vq35'd i30: 13.3@104mph, 30MPG Hwy (RIP)
02 Jag X-type
03 BMW M5
07 Infiniti G35s 6MT
07 Ducati Monster S2R 800 with DS1000 swap
05 Suzuki DRZ400S
83 Yamaha IT175K
72 Yamaha DS7: '74 RD250 swap, JL chambers

Info on dropping a 92-99: Here.


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PostPosted: Thu May 07, 2020 7:52 pm 
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It wasn't plugged in, just touched 12 volt to alt. I do think something is wrong with the pcm though, and it might be my other couple issues

I'm getting 5 volts at B


getting 38 volts at D


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PostPosted: Thu May 07, 2020 9:19 pm 
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5 at B is good but 38 at D is dangerous! that should be 14ish volts max.

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95 SLE... a keeper. 241k miles. Low and Slow.
97 BMW 528i
98 Infiniti vq35'd i30: 13.3@104mph, 30MPG Hwy (RIP)
02 Jag X-type
03 BMW M5
07 Infiniti G35s 6MT
07 Ducati Monster S2R 800 with DS1000 swap
05 Suzuki DRZ400S
83 Yamaha IT175K
72 Yamaha DS7: '74 RD250 swap, JL chambers

Info on dropping a 92-99: Here.


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PostPosted: Fri May 08, 2020 7:57 am 
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In your diagram it shows coming from the dash integration module. Do you no where that is? Maybe part of cluster.

YA i thought it was strange, how it could get that high.


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PostPosted: Mon May 11, 2020 8:09 pm 
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Took it in and they said there was a tsb00-06-04-055 for this car which calls replace alt and install two jumper harness, one being part no.12165487. going to have to call back to find out the part number for second harness but found the one for $16.00 shipped (ebay), they wanted $200 for it only one place in the country still has them Vintage parts. I did see some others on line and ebay for $140. the other harness they wanted $200 for too, hope I get as lucky with that one.

I looked up that tsb and couldn't find anything about it on line. This is for the battery drain over a 3 to 4 day's.

The alternator is charging just that the dash doesn't show it, maybe from alt getting hot they said. Rock auto alt on way.


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PostPosted: Mon May 11, 2020 8:28 pm 
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That's interesting. Keep us posted. Sorry I cant be more helpful.

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95 SLE... a keeper. 241k miles. Low and Slow.
97 BMW 528i
98 Infiniti vq35'd i30: 13.3@104mph, 30MPG Hwy (RIP)
02 Jag X-type
03 BMW M5
07 Infiniti G35s 6MT
07 Ducati Monster S2R 800 with DS1000 swap
05 Suzuki DRZ400S
83 Yamaha IT175K
72 Yamaha DS7: '74 RD250 swap, JL chambers

Info on dropping a 92-99: Here.


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PostPosted: Tue May 12, 2020 8:31 pm 
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Called shop today to ask about second harness, tells me its the same that u need two. He is telling me one goes on alternator, not so i find out after searching that part number on line. I find that one goes to each cooling fan, jumper wire with a diode in it. Lucky the same seller had one more wire at the good price.


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