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PostPosted: Thu Nov 07, 2019 6:46 pm 
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SLE Member
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Joined: Thu Feb 19, 2015 5:58 pm
Posts: 95
Location: elizabethtown pa
Year and Trim: 2000 Bonneville ssei
2000 Pontiac bonneville ssei.
Drove 900 miles on vacation and while I was on vacation driver rear power lock quit responding, will only work manually.
A week later my key fob quit working.
Changed the batteries and tested that it was putting out a signal and it was.
So I got my tech 2 scan tool out and tried to reprogram the key fob to my car and it wouldn't work.
So I bought a brand new $90 key fob and it wouldn't program to my car either.
So I took the power lock actuator out and replaced it with one out of a 2000 Pontiac bonneville sle and it still wont work.
But if I hook the tech 2 up and send the signal to lock or unlock that door I can hear the relay in the door working.
What should I try next?
I really miss my key fob.
Thx for any help or info


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 08, 2019 6:19 am 
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Resident Gearhead
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Joined: Wed Apr 01, 2009 7:11 pm
Posts: 2586
Location: Alberta, Canada
Year and Trim: 2004 GXP, 2008 STS, 2008 DTS
So let's start back at the beginning because this almost sounds like two separate problems. If I understand correctly, the fob will not work to lock or unlock any of the doors, or is it just the left rear?

Does the power window on the left rear door work?

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PostPosted: Fri Nov 29, 2019 7:40 pm 
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Joined: Thu Feb 19, 2015 5:58 pm
Posts: 95
Location: elizabethtown pa
Year and Trim: 2000 Bonneville ssei
all power windows work and power locks work in all doors except driver rear door has to be locked and unlocked manually.
when I bought the car the rear windows didn't work but the power locks all worked and front windows worked. so I pulled the front seats and redid the splice connectors for the power windows and the one for power locks since I was already there. but the key fob operated as it was supposed to.
then driver rear door lock quit working with power and only worked manually. then a week later the key fob quit communicating with the car and wouldn't operate anything. I changed the battery but that didn't help.
so I got my tech 2 scan tool out and tried to reprogram the key fob with the car but it wouldn't work. so I bought a brand new gm key fob and tried programing it to my car and it didn't work either.
I have signal to the driver rear door when I hit power lock but no movement of lock. I changed the power lock unit for that door with one from the wrecking yard and it still wont work.
I miss my key fob.
this car has been a nightmare for the most part and I love driving it when its right but it hasn't been right in awhile.


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PostPosted: Sun Dec 01, 2019 6:07 pm 
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Resident Gearhead
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Joined: Wed Apr 01, 2009 7:11 pm
Posts: 2586
Location: Alberta, Canada
Year and Trim: 2004 GXP, 2008 STS, 2008 DTS
It doesn't sound like the splice under the driver's seat was ever the problem, however making sure it's solid isn't a bad thing with their history.

The reason I asked about the window relates to a wiring problem. I've seen instances when the rear door was opened and closed so many times that strands of wiring in the primary high current power feed into the door broke and opened over time. Specifically, this was in the wiring located in the rubber boot between the door and body. This effectively decreased the gauge of the wire. While the door "appeared" to work, and the problem "seemed" to be the window regulator/motor, it was actually just fine. Enough strands of wire broke and when the owner tried to roll up or down the window, the remaining strands of wire weren't enough to supply the current necessary for the motor to turn. I considered that, since the lock solenoid also requires a moderate amount of power to work, that if the motor didn't function there may be a similar wiring issue. The motor should require more current that the lock solenoid, so this doesn't seem like the issue.

I don't think your fob problem is related to your door issue. It seems to have coincidentally failed while you already had the pre-existing lock failure.

When you say that you have signal to your left rear door when you press lock, what exactly do you mean? Is this measured voltage at the lock solenoid connector, or is it the data you're observing on your Tech2? The module may be receiving the command over the data bus, but this is really only helpful to know if you're diagnosing a communication problem. Since other door functions work, I don't believe data bus issues are the problem.

One thing I would definitely start with is unplugging all the connectors from the left rear door module and inspecting them for signs of corrosion. I've seen this before as well. If your module data shows it received the signal to lock/unlock the door, you're looking at:

1. A failed door module (bad/pitted/corroded relay contacts on the relay in the module), or another module fault.
2. Corrosion, loose connection or excessive current draw damage at the wiring harness(es) plugged into the door module.
3. A wiring fault between the door module and the lock solenoid.
4. A defective replacement lock actuator.

Personally, I would have dug into some measurements and checked the wiring before replacing the solenoid, but I can see what you were thinking.

_________________
Image

Bose Luxury Sound System w/Touch Screen Navigation, Addition of Factory XM, 2005 MY Antenna, OnStar Upgrade (3G),
RainSense Wipers, Backup Camera, '00 Style Door Panel Courtesy Lights, Heated Washer Solvent, 2X Remote Trunk Release,
Turn Signal Mirrors, Center Console Courtesy Lamp, Rear Outboard Heated Seats, PVD Chrome 18" Factory Rims, Upgraded
Carbon Fibre Appearance Interior Trim, Highly Modified Main Body Harness, Instrument Panel, Door, Door Panel & Headliner
Wiring Harnesses, Custom Fuse Box & Tire and Loading Information Decals, Additional Acoustic Insulation


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