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PostPosted: Fri Nov 16, 2018 6:53 pm 
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Yes I hear ya there! Here's a little video i made today to show u guys what's happening, maybe it will help us? The weird part is if i go back into drive it doesn't come back on, only if i'm driving it again or i suppose if i sat long enough it pop back on too? The traction switch is on top as it was frozen from previous owner spilling *shoot* in it, and it looks like he had it glued in under the panel, i got it free again, and will super glue back under the console cover when its lit up it does turn the trac light on and off in cluster, so its working.

https://youtu.be/N6oUN5BQhTg


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 16, 2018 11:09 pm 
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So does it do this every time you put it in PARK, or just intermittently?

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PostPosted: Sat Nov 17, 2018 8:57 am 
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ddalder wrote:
So does it do this every time you put it in PARK, or just intermittently?


Lately it’s been every time, but in the past it didn’t, but it was working then too.


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 19, 2018 7:05 am 
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Have you carefully inspected the length of the shifter cable and related mechanisms to see if movement over time has chaffed wiring? I would think the most likely area is in the engine compartment as opposed to the center console.

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Bose Luxury Sound System w/Touch Screen Navigation, Addition of Factory XM, 2005 MY Antenna, OnStar Upgrade (3G),
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Turn Signal Mirrors, Center Console Courtesy Lamp, Rear Outboard Heated Seats, PVD Chrome 18" Factory Rims, Upgraded
Carbon Fibre Appearance Interior Trim, Highly Modified Main Body Harness, Instrument Panel, Door, Door Panel & Headliner
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 19, 2018 2:06 pm 
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ddalder wrote:
Have you carefully inspected the length of the shifter cable and related mechanisms to see if movement over time has chaffed wiring? I would think the most likely area is in the engine compartment as opposed to the center console.


I have not done that yet,but i can. I agree I would think it's in the engine compartment also, Never came on this morning so no heat going to work! I thought I read some other threads where people were having the same kinda issue with the trac light and anti lock brake and brake lights coming on and off, and it being a bad wheel speed sensor? I know that doesn't explain the heater deal tho. I seen this on another post on the net, but supposedly both front wheel bearings were done.

The problem might be coming from the left front wheel hub assembly.

The hub assembly includes the wheel speed sensor/tone ring. If the bearing becomes worn and causes the wheel speed sensor to become misaligned with the tone ring it’ll cause the ABS light to come on. And if the ABS light comes on, the TRAC system light automatically comes on because it’s not going to function if there’s a problem with ABS.

So the bearing in the left front hub assembly could be worn where it causes the wheel speed sensor to become misaligned with the tone ring, but not worn enough to make noise or cause other problems.


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 19, 2018 4:22 pm 
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Bad wheel speed sensors can absolutely be the cause of brake/traction/stability control system problems, but this has never been linked to a climate control module problem. At least never in all the years I can recall on the forum.

As for the hub assembly, I don't know that wear is as much of a problem when it comes to WSS problems. I would expect that there would need to be a vast amount of play in the bearing (relatively speaking) in comparison the usual tight tolerances. My personal opinion is that the hall effect sensor they use fails because of heat or other environmental causes.

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PostPosted: Mon Nov 19, 2018 5:35 pm 
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I played a little around with the wiring under console, hows that cover come completely off? Guessing the shifter knob gets removed somehow? It’s not conclusive yet, but it may be under there somewhere I was able to get it to come on after restarting the car, but then playing with wires n pulling etc I couldn’t get it to go back off lol. The switch on the shifter cable, what is that or what does it all do? There’s a orange safety clip holding the clip on, and without actually getting my hand down in there I can’t remove it to unplug the switch etc . But the heater situation may be in that area, fingers crossed?


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 19, 2018 6:13 pm 
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That is for the shifter lock solenoid. The orange piece you see is a connector assurance lock. It must be pulled out before you can depress the tab to remove the connector. You'll see those orange CPA's (and some of different designs) throughout the car. They are typically used for items that are safety related to ensure the connectors can't come apart.

To get the shift handle off, pull the boot down from the base of the shift handle. There is a 'U' shaped spring steel clip that presses into the shift handle from the back (engine side). You'll need a tiny screwdriver or something sharp to pull it out. Once that's done, the handle just lifts off.

I wouldn't think your heater problem will likely be in that area. There really isn't anything heater related in the center console wiring harness. There is a connector at the front of the center console which is used to connect the center console components to the instrument panel wiring harness. Check that out, but I'm still skeptical you'll find your problem there.

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Turn Signal Mirrors, Center Console Courtesy Lamp, Rear Outboard Heated Seats, PVD Chrome 18" Factory Rims, Upgraded
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 19, 2018 7:48 pm 
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That connector is under the shift console that connects to instrument panel then? I don’t know if it will help or not but gotta try and find some commonality somewhere lol.


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 20, 2018 6:35 am 
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No, the connector interfacing the center console wiring harness to the instrument panel harness clips to the center console in front of the shifter assembly, closer to the firewall but still within the confines of the center console itself. I'm not sure about the 2000-01 (because this changed in 2002), but you may still need to remove the shifter to get reasonable access.

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Turn Signal Mirrors, Center Console Courtesy Lamp, Rear Outboard Heated Seats, PVD Chrome 18" Factory Rims, Upgraded
Carbon Fibre Appearance Interior Trim, Highly Modified Main Body Harness, Instrument Panel, Door, Door Panel & Headliner
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 20, 2018 8:24 am 
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Ok, Sounds good I wont be looking at this til after the turkey holiday. The good part is it was on today when i started the car and brake lights also stayed off and the heater never went off so i had heat on the way into work lol


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 20, 2018 9:54 am 
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So Its not uncommon it appears,

http://www.fixya.com/cars/t21284663-cli ... reen_blank

This was one of the answers

Climate control blank
ahhh some one upgraded the cars security package and crossed the wires and or had a new sterio installed
trace the wireing back someone spliced into the wires to add these items
theres specific harnesses made for vehicles to add sterios no splicing at all

or you have a big rodent problem chewing wires
now the other thing is failing alternator reset codes and try again
all that you mentioned above is due to security feature built into your radio that controls most your vehicles functions do not drive in this condition till you get fixed very unsafe

I’ve been looking at some of the wiring schematics on autozone under hvac and with some of my codes that have popped up etc , it could just be a connector that’s not getting good contact, but the problem is which one is it lol


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 20, 2018 11:47 am 
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The post states...

"I have a 2002 Bonneville that has a problem that I have found everywhere online but no solution. When you start the car the climate control stays blank, the air bag, brake, and abs lights are on, also the traction control stays off??? thinking a bad connection in a connector..."

If this was indeed such a common problem, there's no doubt we would have seen it here. A single person can post one issue on numerous sites in an attempt to find a solution. If it was common, I also believe there's no doubt someone would have found a solution and posted it on at least one site.

This nonsense about a security feature in the radio that control most vehicle functions is coming from someone who has ZERO knowledge and experience with these cars. The radios in the Bonneville perform two functions... 1) Play music, 2) Make the chime noise for warnings. There is security built into the radio, but only to the extent it will not work in another vehicle unless unlocked by way of a specific procedure. I removed my factory radio and installed a touchscreen navigation system out of a Cadillac Escalade, an entirely different vehicle with entirely different options. Guess how many problems I have with my car and all the extensive vehicle "functions" the radio controls? That's right, zero. That's because these radios do not control any vehicle functions. In my 2008 Cadillac STS, the navigation radio is used to set various vehicle options, but this is an entirely different beast.

In response to the climate control, with the automatic dual zone system there are two modules (manual climate control only has one). One is the control head and the other monitors all the sensor inputs and controls the stepper motors to open/close/adjust the vents. The control head, which I suspect would be the only one of concern here has a single connector. This module clicks into the dash (removed by releasing four tabs and pulling it straight out). It uses a "Dock-n-Lock" connector which mates with a connector in the back of the instrument panel bay as you slide it into place. There is a possibility of a bad connection (as could happen with absolutely any connector), but I doubt it. The other module (known as the Instrument Panel Integration Module) is in the dash and it has two large connectors. I don't see how this would have any bearing on the display. It communicates specific information with the control head over the Class 2 serial data bus.

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 20, 2018 12:31 pm 
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So is it possible it’s in the data serial communications side? Or do u think it’s ditectly power/ ground related? All I know is I ran this car all summer with ac off n on it never once did what it’s doing now? Something is definitely odd somewhere I only posted that cause I hadn’t seen much on my problem as far as the brake lights and the heater screen doing what mine are now is all. I agree there is so much misinformation out there these days u have to weed thru it all and i can usually tell who knows their *shoot* and who doesn’t, which in this case your very knowledgeable about these cars I can tell!


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 22, 2018 4:05 am 
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It's possible that a defective module on the data bus can cause erroneous faults, but based on what you're describing, it wouldn't be my first thought. The fact that this seems to occur frequently with mechanical movement (either your shift lever being changed, road bumps or other in-motion vibration) still leads me to think it's a connection related issue. This can mean a connection opening, shorting to another conductor, shorting to ground or to battery positive voltage.

The problem you have is that it's an intermittent fault, which can be difficult to troubleshoot at the best of times. Remote troubleshooting over an internet forum adds even more complexity to this. It almost seems as though it's becoming more reproduceable. This may be helpful.

I'd be happy to look at the car and run through some diagnostics, but I suspect you're nowhere close to where I am.

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 22, 2018 12:09 pm 
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Yea, I have the same issues at work when their intermittent and they’re the hardest to always find!! That’s just it sometimes it is repeatable and then all of the sudden it won’t be like moving the shifter deal, it doesn’t always go blank going into park. Then there’s when the lights go off n screen comes on the trac light doesn’t always go off with them other two lights, also when the abs and brake light is on and heater screen out the fog lights don’t turn on with the switch. Then when those lights are on and screen blank the cruise doesn’t work lol. I tried to look at a schematic on autozone to see if there was some common connections for all this stuff but I really didn’t see anything to connect all these things together? I don’t know if it’s the bumps that effect it or not cause I’ll be driving along on a highway and it just comes on n those lights go off, does the warning bell only ring when the abs lights go on and off? It seems like it also rings when first turning key on also? I’m unfortunately in Wisconsin lol


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PostPosted: Sat Nov 24, 2018 5:46 pm 
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Yeah, Wisconsin is a little ways from where I'm at. I have all the wiring diagrams for these cars through the entire 2000-05 model year range. My quick, cursory look initially didn't find a lot in common. This is one of the reasons I'd be checking all the wiring harnesses for something that rubbed through since a lot of the wiring for these various systems pass through the same harnesses. This can certainly explain problems with so many otherwise unrelated systems. Of course there may still be a problem with one of your modules. I personally don't believe that modules fail all that much in these cars, although it is possible.

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Turn Signal Mirrors, Center Console Courtesy Lamp, Rear Outboard Heated Seats, PVD Chrome 18" Factory Rims, Upgraded
Carbon Fibre Appearance Interior Trim, Highly Modified Main Body Harness, Instrument Panel, Door, Door Panel & Headliner
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 24, 2018 6:37 pm 
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I think when I get home , I’ll maybe pull the instrument cover and the radio and heater controls out? Check that ribbon behind them? What specifically harness would u have me check and where is it located? How does that main connector under master cylinder come part? Has a lever on it, but also looks like it locks it in place somehow? I’ve plated with that connector and it didn’t do anything as far as bringing lights on n off tho too.


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PostPosted: Sun Nov 25, 2018 12:40 am 
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I would suggest you examine the harness going to the ABS module and leading back to that big connector under the master cylinder. Just check in general, any harness under the hood to make sure it's fastened correctly and there aren't any marks to suggest chafing. It's definitely possible that someone may have done work on the car in the past and not re-secured harnesses back in place allowing for vibration and rubbing. Also check for any wiring that is routed close to sources of heat. Insulation inside of split loom may have melted. If this is the case, I'd expect you would likely see some distortion/damage to the loom.

If you take apart any connectors, be extremely careful. The connector should be clean before separation. Introduction of any contaminants will compromise the sealed environment. The seals are self-lubricating and dust will stick very readily to them.

As for the C101 under the master cylinder, this is the inline connector that mates the engine wiring harness with the main body wiring harness. Like the other LeverLock connectors GM used in these cars, there are tabs on each side. You need to squeeze these together and hold them while you pull that lever to separate the two halves. I doubt you'll find a problem here unless there has been water intrusion so if your engine bay isn't very clean, I'd be hesitant to separate this.

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Turn Signal Mirrors, Center Console Courtesy Lamp, Rear Outboard Heated Seats, PVD Chrome 18" Factory Rims, Upgraded
Carbon Fibre Appearance Interior Trim, Highly Modified Main Body Harness, Instrument Panel, Door, Door Panel & Headliner
Wiring Harnesses, Custom Fuse Box & Tire and Loading Information Decals, Additional Acoustic Insulation


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 27, 2018 3:56 pm 
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Ok I'll check them when I can, My radio the cd doesn't work and the screen is not always reading perfectly like it comes in and out on some of the letters etc and the junkyard locally has one for 30 bucks, and i see they also have a heater control for 30 so i thought why not try it too, is there anything special about replacing that control, i see it just snaps out like the radio.Do i need to turn unit off , disconnect battery etc or will that not effect my mode doors and their functions?

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