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PostPosted: Fri Jul 13, 2018 10:27 pm 
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I'm Having a issue with my service engine soon flashing after car has been driven for some time, it seems fine when first started in morning or after work, it is hesitating when cruising along or going up a hill it will do it too, if its in park and u rev it slow , its clean and smooth, if u punch it quick there's a big lag or it feels like it is on 5? similiar to a carb car that isn't getting a good acc pump shot? it just doesn't feel like its on all 6, if u kick it down it kicks down but it just seems to not really go anywhere very fast .It's got new plugs, wires etc, I tried some coil packs i had from my old 91 cutlass 3.4, it actually seemed worse, so i put the old ones back on, is it possible it could still be a coil pack? but why does it rev smooth if u slowly push the throttle down, to me that's gas related, maybe a injector? It has a newer tps also, as well as maps and maf sensors. I know it needs a down stream o2 on bank 1 as that light is on , but i doubt that's causing this? I'll put a code reader on it tomorrow and see if it shows anything else besides that o2, u guys have any ideas?
Thanks!


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PostPosted: Sat Jul 14, 2018 10:30 pm 
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scan tool is your freind. I'm guessing that all of these newer parts are also a result of your guessing game. There is a reason that little plug is under the dash. If you dont have a cheap scanner take it to the local parts store. Most of them will scan it for free


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 15, 2018 8:27 am 
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Goostoff wrote:
scan tool is your freind. I'm guessing that all of these newer parts are also a result of your guessing game. There is a reason that little plug is under the dash. If you dont have a cheap scanner take it to the local parts store. Most of them will scan it for free

Actually all of those parts were replaced by prior owner, I bought the car bout a month ago, I used my brothers scan tool yesterday it shows a PO300 which I see could be many things possible causing that code, so where is the most logical place to start? I know I can ohm out coil packs but if it only happens when their warm they’ll test good cold possibly too. Does the tool check fuel fuel pressure or do I need to hook up a gauge?


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 15, 2018 10:11 am 
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hook up a gauge. Start by disconnecting the vac line on the fuel pressure regulator. If there is gas in it that will be your problem. A new fuel filter isnt a bad idea either. When they get dirty they will clog up after running for a bit. Shut it off and all the crap falls to the bottom. Start it up and it stirs all that crap up again and starts to plug the filter back up. Could be a bad injector as well. It might be failing as the engine warms up.

I would find someone with a good scanner that can watch live data and misfire data, as well as injector balance and all that crap. You have reached the point where a cheap scan tool is useless. Now you need a good one or just start throwing parts at it till something sticks and that option gets expensive


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 15, 2018 11:54 am 
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I talked to previous owner and he said the only thing he hadn’t done was coil packs, So advance auto as 25% off for online purchases bought three new BWD selects and it’s fixed!! Cleared the codes and all is well. I like to update what fixes it as so many times these forums people never come back and say what took care of it lol. Next on list is to do front struts and the rear shocks. Thanks for your help!!


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 15, 2018 3:29 pm 
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You get free shipping with that 25% off as well? Thats a pretty good deal


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 15, 2018 5:28 pm 
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Goostoff wrote:
You get free shipping with that 25% off as well? Thats a pretty good deal


I’m not sure? I was able to buy online and pick up at my local store


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 16, 2018 7:03 am 
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I was driving to work this morning and kicked it down after i took off from a stop, and it revved to like 4-5000 grand and then the light was flashing and now its back on. I haven't checked the codes yet, I'll have to after work. It still seems ok compared to how it was before, so i think that problem is still gone, I wont really know til i drive it longer then 20 minutes tho. Any ideas what would cause that? It didn't pull smoothly either when kicked down, like it was misfiring?


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 16, 2018 7:15 am 
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I'd throw a set of plugs in it, just so you know where you're at. Someone may have cracked one while replacing them, and they're cheap


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 16, 2018 7:46 am 
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maxi426 wrote:
I'd throw a set of plugs in it, just so you know where you're at. Someone may have cracked one while replacing them, and they're cheap



Probably not a bad idea? It idles smooth as glass tho, that's why i didn't think it would be a plug? Maybe i could do a fuel filter ?


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 16, 2018 8:03 am 
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I didn't see it mentioned, however a flashing MIL indicates a potential catalyst damaging condition, the biggest offender being a misfire.

As mentioned, a live scan is usually the best way to track the issue down. Insufficient fuel flow at high loads, improper ignition, as well as exhaust restriction can all cause the condition without reliably setting codes.

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PostPosted: Mon Jul 16, 2018 9:07 am 
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RJolly87 wrote:
I didn't see it mentioned, however a flashing MIL indicates a potential catalyst damaging condition, the biggest offender being a misfire.

As mentioned, a live scan is usually the best way to track the issue down. Insufficient fuel flow at high loads, improper ignition, as well as exhaust restriction can all cause the condition without reliably setting codes.


So The converter could be bad? It has 195000 miles on the car now, not sure if its ever been done? my guess is no?
U mean live with it just idling or driving along with the actron scan tool? What would I be watching on the data section , fuel, timing? That could explain the sensor code for bank 1 sensor 2 since that's the down stream one being a bad conv?
Thanks


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 16, 2018 10:53 am 
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I would compare live data when it's running fine to that when its acting up. I didn't realize there were other codes.

What codes do you have exactly?

The best bet would be to have someone proficient in diagnostics running shotgun with a live scanner to help narrow it down.

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PostPosted: Mon Jul 16, 2018 11:49 am 
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So U mean like when i'm just cruising along and its fine watch the data, then step it down and when its misfiring watch it again? Yes it also has the po141 code, so I'll check codes again today to see which ones are there, im guessing it will be the p300, p141 but that's it, I bought this car and drove it to missouri and it got *dang* near 31 mpg, then on way back i got gas in iowa and it started getting worse mileage, i figured bad gas, but no that's not it,lol, as then it started to have that jerky motion when cruising along down the highway at times, or going up a hill, i wasn't sure what was going on at that point, Thought they were flukes, but then it came a little more often, It idles great and drives nice right now, Maybe i should take on a longer cruise and see if it comes back just cruising or if that was just the coil packs, and this is another issue that is there under harder throttle? Is there a list anywhere what the normal ranges are for everything that the engine scans while running ? That would be a huge help to have a cheat sheet like that!


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 16, 2018 5:11 pm 
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So got home and read codes and it’s showing a po304 now, so something with that cylinder? Plug? Wires are newer from previous owner. If I floor it from a dead stop it just flutters like it’s got 3 cylinders lol. Hard to explain, it won’t go anywhere, if u slowly take off it’s ok? Too hot to pull
The plug now, I ohmed the injector it ohms like a front one so I think that’s ok?


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 16, 2018 6:55 pm 
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So i Pulled plugs # 4,5,6 they all look pretty much the same? put the #5 plug back in the #4 cylinder .cleared all codes, and took for drive, same *shoot* just flutters if u floor it, and if u step into fairly firm taking off once it gets up to 4000+ rpms the light starts flashing. Po300 is back then, but that was the only code? for some reason the 141 didnt least now? but its not switching rich to lean, so i know i need to change that, but that wouldn't cause this flutter thing when floored from a dead stop, could the cat be plugged? I took some pics of the data while running i'll see if i can share it here.


Last edited by Newbie2000 on Mon Jul 16, 2018 7:52 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Mon Jul 16, 2018 7:12 pm 
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This was just idling

Image

Image

Image

Image


https://youtu.be/Hrrgvd4hkUY


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 17, 2018 11:54 am 
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I'm picking up a new set of 41-101 plugs, will gap at .055 today along with renting a fuel pressure gauge.


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 17, 2018 6:08 pm 
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Well I’m getting stumped, fuel pressure is good, right around 50 with key on, 45 with it running, and jumps to 55 when I pull vacuum hose from regulator, only thing I found was 2-5 we’re switched on coil, so I switched those, but maybe it doesn’t matter as long as that coil is firing those two cylinders? Idk? Either way still won’t take off with quick hit to the floor just flutters or stumbles? I have 21 inches of vacuum and if I bring up the rpms it stays there or climbs slightly so I’m thinking cat isn’t plugged and probably ok? Check the TPS next? See if voltages are where they should be at idle and wot? I’m debating on changing out the basically new ngktr55 plugs for the 41-101? Hate to spend that money if it won’t matter? I have them here just not sure if it’s worth changing them?


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 17, 2018 6:55 pm 
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TPS?

https://youtu.be/zCKZrIy3QbY


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