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PostPosted: Thu Dec 14, 2017 9:50 pm 
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Joined: Mon Sep 18, 2017 4:20 am
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Year and Trim: 2002 ssei
this is my second car i bought it from my neighbor who was a mechanic that built 350 smallblocks for racing and before him it belonged to his son who knows a similar level of mechanics and who knows how many owners previously even then for 600$ not bad right? anyways it hit a deer so there is a crack in the bumper and a warped quarter panel and the frame piece the radiator bolts up to has a crinkle in it and the grill is broken as a result it has a salvage title and needs tlc to be restored, so far when i received the vehicle i replaced all the fluids and oils immediately and cleaned the engine bay a bit and replaced all but the fuel filter for filters so far however some problems started to show up the more i drive it, heres the list.

The trans shifts hard after warming up i changed fluids and filter gonna do that again just in case the filter failed prematurely and also going to replace the shift solenoid as soon as possible

The engine intermittently stalls out for no reason the lights dim before it happens so i thought electrics and bought a new battery and replaced the alternator with a spare from a grand prix i had lying around, it also had a few vacuum lines that were missing so i capped them off for now till i see a diagram for it so i can replace as needed also i replaced the maf and it ran worse so i had the old one reinstalled it reads a code for low signal from maf or circuit A. (update) I solved the car stalling issue there was a vacuum leak from a small plastic T underneath the supercharger cone so i took out the plastic T and fabricated a adapter to make it run over the cone instead and used some rubber hose and now it runs fine and has yet to stall.

the rear 6x9s were blown from one of the previous owners amping them and messing with the wiring and failed to install a headphone jack kit, my neighbor took that out and undid what damage it did to the harnesses and now when the radio fuse is in it drains the battery sometimes and causes other electrical gremlins to surface such as gauges whacking out or the drivers mirror adjusting itself and coming off the rails or the windshield wipers to wipe funny also the stock amp takes a 30 amp fuse but it has a 40 in that spot instead, the stock radio does not have a functioning led screen either my cousin has a spare Bose sub for cars lying around hes going to give to me, im planning on taking the stock deck out and replacing it with a kenwood echelon sing single din with a 5 way amp to the stock speakers and a sealed box with that Bose woofer and a passive radiator installed by me, by hand.

the heated seats dont work the ac wont blow cold air and the gas door has that rust spot thats common also it needs control arms and suspension pieces (struts shock absorbers no bags) it has new tie rods in it tho.

it also had 2 of the spark plug boots that snapped off so i had new plugs and wires put in just some ac delco copper plugs and 7.5 wires, also needs some decent tires.

for 600$ it needs about 2k$ in repairs for it to get back up to spec, also come this march im having a rebuild done, my local machine shop will shave heads install double valve springs and punch the block install a cam and new crank with new pistons and rods all for 2K$ aswell with a smaller pully and a fresh tune i am looking at around 500 whp and ideally 400+ to the wheels with a torque converter delay installed for drag (forget the name of the actual part).(update) any suggestions on good pistons and valve springs aswell as rods and a crank would be welcome.

all in all im looking for suggestions in parts and ideas for this vehicle to be truly nice and unique. anything can help thanks in advance. :)


Last edited by sizzam on Fri Dec 15, 2017 5:19 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Fri Dec 15, 2017 1:22 pm 
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Resident Gearhead
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Joined: Mon May 19, 2008 10:30 pm
Posts: 8701
Location: Grand Rapids, Michigan
Year and Trim: 2014 Cadillac XTS Vsport.
Look over the common problems thread that the top of this section. Most of you problems are addressed there.

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*Gone, but not forgotten* - Black 2000 SSEi, HIR Headlights, Angel Eyes fogs, 3rd brake light overlay, hi-flo cat, 180 degree thermostat, HS 1.9 rockers, LSx yellow springs, Intense FWI, PCM, shift kit, push rods, and 3.4 Pulley. ZZP Power Log.


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 15, 2017 3:13 pm 
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Posts like an L67
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Joined: Sun Aug 22, 2010 11:11 pm
Posts: 1462
Location: Ontario, Canada
Year and Trim: 2000 Bonniville SSEi L67
hi, when your lights dim, soes the car sputter before it stalls - you can try unplugging the maf - see if it improves

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poverty forces one to do unorthodox things

2000 SSEi
past rides:
1996 SSEi
1992 GTP
1987 Grand Am


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 15, 2017 5:10 pm 
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Joined: Mon Sep 18, 2017 4:20 am
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Year and Trim: 2002 ssei
ive tried running with no maf it did not solve the issue in fact it killed the car with it unpluged


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PostPosted: Sat Dec 16, 2017 12:06 pm 
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Location: Chicago, IL
Year and Trim: 2003 SLE
Archon wrote:
Look over the common problems thread that the top of this section. Most of you problems are addressed there.


Welcome!

Definitely check out the thread mentioned. It outlines nearly everything you're experiencing. Feel free to ask any other questions afterwards.

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"Penelope" - 2003 SLE - 170k Miles
No name yet - 2000 Honda S2000 - 52k miles
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 16, 2017 6:28 pm 
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Posts like an L67
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Joined: Thu May 01, 2014 9:37 pm
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Year and Trim: 1993 SLE
1998 SE
2001 SSEI
2002 SSEI
sizzam wrote:
ive tried running with no maf it did not solve the issue in fact it killed the car with it unpluged

If you unplug it while the car is running, it will stall out---and it isn't a good idea to unplug sensors while the ignition is on/car is running..
You have to unplug it with the ignition off.

Although at 240K the transmission may have issues, a faulty or dirty MAF sensor can actually cause shift issues, too.
You can get some MAF sensor cleaner (other cleaners leave dirt-collecting residues) and clean the MAF sensor wires/ elements.
Our sensor is removed with 2 inverted Torx screws.
Just remove the screws and the sensor comes right out.
Don't disconnect the throttle body because coolant runs through parts of it.
This video is good
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_TO7ZC5N-aA
If the MAF sensor is bad, either get a good used one from Harofreak00 (Andrew) , or a reliable junkyard and then clean it with MAF sensor cleaner.
If you buy a brand new sensor--buy a Hitachi MAF sensor.
Don't even bother with other brands because they're junk

This is the Common Problems thread that you should peruse
2000-2005-other-than-gxp/topic25362.html


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PostPosted: Sat Dec 16, 2017 10:17 pm 
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Joined: Mon Sep 18, 2017 4:20 am
Posts: 8
Year and Trim: 2002 ssei
MKMike wrote:
sizzam wrote:
ive tried running with no maf it did not solve the issue in fact it killed the car with it unpluged

If you unplug it while the car is running, it will stall out---and it isn't a good idea to unplug sensors while the ignition is on/car is running..
You have to unplug it with the ignition off.

Although at 240K the transmission may have issues, a faulty or dirty MAF sensor can actually cause shift issues, too.
You can get some MAF sensor cleaner (other cleaners leave dirt-collecting residues) and clean the MAF sensor wires/ elements.
Our sensor is removed with 2 inverted Torx screws.
Just remove the screws and the sensor comes right out.
Don't disconnect the throttle body because coolant runs through parts of it.
This video is good
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_TO7ZC5N-aA
If the MAF sensor is bad, either get a good used one from Harofreak00 (Andrew) , or a reliable junkyard and then clean it with MAF sensor cleaner.
If you buy a brand new sensor--buy a Hitachi MAF sensor.
Don't even bother with other brands because they're junk

This is the Common Problems thread that you should peruse
2000-2005-other-than-gxp/topic25362.html



thanks i did unplug the sensor with the ignition off just to clarify

also on the topic of cleaning the maf sensor i had the sensor removed and sprayed thoroughly with maf cleaner aswell as any and all connectors for most electronics with the ignition off and the neg terminal unplugged of course also i took the boot going to the airbox off and spayed the screen very heavily with maf cleaner aswell it seems to have helped a bit but im suspecting its a vacuum leak causing my maf codes or a wire that has a poor connection on the circuit or a bad ground for circuit A.

also i did check that thread very helpful just wondering then if any of my above listed problems someone else has had success solving? some solutions did not solve some of my issues.


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 20, 2017 5:44 pm 
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Posts like an L67
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Joined: Thu May 01, 2014 9:37 pm
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Year and Trim: 1993 SLE
1998 SE
2001 SSEI
2002 SSEI
You can save half or more on repairs if you DIY.
Ebay often has original Factory Service manuals for sale, so you can get step by step instructions to supplement what can be found on this forum.
You can buy the cheaper 2000 Bonneville FSM, as the info is identical on virtually everything.

Did the MAF codes appear before you disconnected the MAF sensor and ran the car?
If not, they are the result of running w/o it connected.
If they were present before then, it is likely that the MAF sensor is bad after 240K of use.
HITACHI MAF0047 is the OE sensor that you need. Don't bother with other brands.
Look on Rockauto (also see discount code in their Pontiac Bonneville Club Vendor's forum post) or even on Amazon for the best prices on a brand new MAF. About $80.

Vacuum leaks can be under the supercharger snorkel, at the MAP sensor, at the fuel pressure regulator ,at the purge valve, a faulty PCV valve or missing o-ring for the pcv or its gasket leaking, leaks occur around the fuel injectors, the supercharger actuator,the lower intake manifold or a bad vacuum booster.
SSEi LIM gasket issues typically show as small coolant pools below the supercharger, around the LIM bolts.
Vacuum leaks can be confirmed with a scan tool by looking at fuel trims.
Normal STFT and LTFT should add up to less than 10.
High fuel trims at idle, which drop down to normal when the rpms are raised to 2000 or so, indicate 1 or more vacuum leaks.
Pinpointing the leaks can be done via sight/feel and by careful use of carburetor spray or metered propane.

A bad MAF causes a variety of driveability symptoms, both for the engine itself---because the computer can't accurately calculate the air to fuel ratio when the MAF sensor provides incorrect info and it also messes up the ecm calculations for transmission shifts/line pressures.

The electrical issues are likely a short circuit, since it's requiring a higher amperage fuse to run things on the radio circuit.
This may be in the wiring or in the devices on that circuit.
It's crucial to remove the fuse until you get the wiring sorted.
An electrical fire can result, otherwise.
This is a good read:
https://www.lifewire.com/diagnosing-blo ... use-534628


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 20, 2017 6:16 pm 
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Posts like an L67
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Joined: Sun Aug 22, 2010 11:11 pm
Posts: 1462
Location: Ontario, Canada
Year and Trim: 2000 Bonniville SSEi L67
if you are having driveability issues, the best tool is a decent scantool - walmart has 2 under 125 bones - they both pull live realtime data so you can see if the maf and its buddy, map are reading correctly - if they are off, that will cause issues.

MAF uses MAP to calculate air volume - you can easily tell if you have a vacuum leak also, using fuel trims....roadi NGS100 is what i have.

if the service history is unknown, I would change plugs/wires - start fresh - minor ignition issues will be solved .

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poverty forces one to do unorthodox things

2000 SSEi
past rides:
1996 SSEi
1992 GTP
1987 Grand Am


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 20, 2017 10:26 pm 
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Joined: Mon Sep 18, 2017 4:20 am
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Year and Trim: 2002 ssei
thanks for the info i use a scan tool from my local auto parts store for free it does a good job,
also to answer some questions no it did not have the maf code before
the maf code was thrown when several things broke as a result of hooning it around a parking lot 1 too many times and ran it a little hot
then the maf issue became present and some vacuum lines busted i fixed what ones i could see but it does need a vacuum rebuild
im planning on having a LIM put in soon that replaces the stock plastic one with a aluminium one of higher quality.
also i agree a service manual is needed and that it probably needs some new o rings for things like the evap and the injectors
the injectors could be cleaned and it would help aswell with fuel delivery
it just had a tune up and i changed all fluids already the only mechanical failings are a leaking vacuum line and some minor engine gasket work. for 600$ not too shabby :)


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PostPosted: Thu Dec 21, 2017 1:40 pm 
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Posts like an L67
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Joined: Thu May 01, 2014 9:37 pm
Posts: 1242
Year and Trim: 1993 SLE
1998 SE
2001 SSEI
2002 SSEI
You can get the vacuum assembly hard lines/rubber fittings aftermarket or brand new off ebay
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Supercharger-G ... qk&vxp=mtr
ACDelco part 24508742

$600 for a driveable vehicle isn't bad.
It's the cost of making the car safe, comfortable and back into good cosmetic that add up quickly.

The o rings for the injectors are rather easy to change.
They should be replaced when the injectors are removed to replace the LIM gaskets.
Of course, what a mechanic does or doesn't do varies greatly.

The free use of the scan tool is nice to check for codes, but if it doesn't provide live data streams, that's not very good.


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