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PostPosted: Mon Jul 17, 2017 5:54 am 
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Year and Trim: 00 Bonneville SSEi
04 Mach 1 Victory Red
So I believe my baby has spun a bearing and I'm getting rod knock now. Metallic particles are present when I drain my oil, at the very end when the last bits of it when draining out. What are my repair options? Near me is a 2002 Grand Prix 3.8 with a blown head gasket that's free(not sure if it's N/A or S/C yet), a 2000 Regal N/A for $300, and a 2000 Buick LeSabre, also with a blown head gasket. I was told by a local auto store that the bottom ends of my Bonneville and the Regal is the same but the heads are not. Is this true? I'd think the L67 S/C motor would have stronger internals over an N/A one. I'm looking for solid info, been searching the Internet for hours and can't seem to get a straight answer.. So I'm here asking for help.

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2013 Taurus SEL


Last edited by 20SSEi00 on Wed Aug 02, 2017 2:15 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Mon Jul 17, 2017 8:52 am 
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Location: Browerville, MN
Year and Trim: 2004 GXP - plus a handful of other Bonnevilles
You'll need to find an L67 donor to do it correctly. The blocks are the same, but the internals are not along with the heads. Don't mess around with trying to make an L36 work.

Have you looked on www.car-part.com?

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PostPosted: Mon Jul 17, 2017 2:10 pm 
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harofreak00 wrote:
You'll need to find an L67 donor to do it correctly. The blocks are the same, but the internals are not along with the heads. Don't mess around with trying to make an L36 work.

Have you looked on http://www.car-part.com?


I see, I thought so. No, I haven't. I will check it out. Thanks! How are these engines to work on internally? Is it possible to drop the pan to replace the bearings?

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2004 Mach1 5spd Victory Red(No J87)
2013 Taurus SEL


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 17, 2017 3:55 pm 
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If you have a knock already, the bearing is probably so badly damaged that the crank is as well. These engines have very tight tolerances and aren't worth rebuilding. The oil pan is part of the structure for the engine mount so the engine needs to be supported from the top to remove the oil pan.

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PostPosted: Mon Jul 17, 2017 5:24 pm 
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harofreak00 wrote:
If you have a knock already, the bearing is probably so badly damaged that the crank is as well. These engines have very tight tolerances and aren't worth rebuilding. The oil pan is part of the structure for the engine mount so the engine needs to be supported from the top to remove the oil pan.


Well I have my work cut out for me then! Shipping to Hawaii for parts is astronomical. A new long block is $2400. There are no L67s for sale here on the Big Island. I may have to attempt a rebuild..

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2004 Mach1 5spd Victory Red(No J87)
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 18, 2017 10:13 am 
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I rebuilt the engine in my 93 SSE (N/A) after losing a rod bearing with 120k on the odometer. The car had 195k on it when my daughter totaled it and it was still running strong. So rebuilding is an option and, based on your alternative costs, might be worth looking into if you want to keep the car. The engine is going to have to come out, though. You need to have the crank checked (mine needed a slight regrinding) and the connecting rod needs to be checked (can't remember if I replaced mine or not). You will also need to have the block "boiled" (professionally cleaned); chances are you've got bearing farfels all over inside the engine, clogging oil passages or hiding in a crevice waiting until you have ~500 miles on the new rebuild before breaking loose and completing its demonic mission.

Short story is that it can be rebuilt, but for us on the mainland it makes more economic sense to get a used engine. In your case rebuilding may be your best option.

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PostPosted: Tue Jul 18, 2017 10:16 am 
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If you aren't doing the work yourself, expect a rebuilt to be ~$2500 as well.

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PostPosted: Tue Jul 18, 2017 10:29 am 
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harofreak00 wrote:
If you aren't doing the work yourself, expect a rebuilt to be ~$2500 as well.

This.

With the exception of the machining, I'm assuming you'd be doing most of the work yourself and that you kinda know what you're doing. :wink:

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PostPosted: Sat Jul 22, 2017 2:29 pm 
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Sirius wrote:
I rebuilt the engine in my 93 SSE (N/A) after losing a rod bearing with 120k on the odometer. The car had 195k on it when my daughter totaled it and it was still running strong. So rebuilding is an option and, based on your alternative costs, might be worth looking into if you want to keep the car. The engine is going to have to come out, though. You need to have the crank checked (mine needed a slight regrinding) and the connecting rod needs to be checked (can't remember if I replaced mine or not). You will also need to have the block "boiled" (professionally cleaned); chances are you've got bearing farfels all over inside the engine, clogging oil passages or hiding in a crevice waiting until you have ~500 miles on the new rebuild before breaking loose and completing its demonic mission.

Short story is that it can be rebuilt, but for us on the mainland it makes more economic sense to get a used engine. In your case rebuilding may be your best option.


I will rebuild the engine I have. I would like to improve upon it also, however I can. I also just picked up a used Regal SC motor for $700.

harofreak00 wrote:
If you aren't doing the work yourself, expect a rebuilt to be ~$2500 as well.


That's a process I will take my time on lol

Sirius wrote:
harofreak00 wrote:
If you aren't doing the work yourself, expect a rebuilt to be ~$2500 as well.

This.

With the exception of the machining, I'm assuming you'd be doing most of the work yourself and that you kinda know what you're doing. :wink:


Yes, I will be doing the work myself. I'm quite dangerous when armed with Chilton and Haynes manuals plus 4 days off a week. Not to mention the lady is eager to tear the engine apart!

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 23, 2017 3:58 am 
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Bought a used long block for $700 delivered. Also bought an engine stand and hoist for $300 at CarQuest

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PostPosted: Fri Jul 28, 2017 2:20 am 
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Tore the engine down in an hour or so

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PostPosted: Fri Jul 28, 2017 11:42 am 
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nice!!...do you wear dresses often or just when working on your ride?

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PostPosted: Fri Jul 28, 2017 12:29 pm 
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Cylinder 6 had water sitting in the top half of the cylinder bore. Small portion of the bore on the oil pan side half is pitted. Machine shop to charge $200 to bore and hone. Going to need bigger pistons for the over bore. Anyone know what type of pistons are factory? Hyperutectic? Powdered? Forged? Saw some for sale on ZZP.

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 02, 2017 2:29 pm 
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$204 for cylinder bore and hone
$395 for head cleaning and 3 way valve job
$300 for Sealed Power Silv-O-Lite Hypereutectic Pistons .30 over

That's what it looks like as of right now. Any suggestions for bearings or rings are good? Saw something about Clevite tri-metal bearings.

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PostPosted: Thu Aug 03, 2017 4:49 am 
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A couple videos to compliment. One shows the sound from a cold start and from inside the car. Other video shows me dropping the oil pan and grabbing the con rod caps while shaking them to check for play. You can clearly hear the clanking.
https://youtu.be/1HkFmAjt3d0

https://youtu.be/TGjsOWSBvBA

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 18, 2018 4:04 am 
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Been a while since last update. Been very busy with work and other projects, but finally got the engine out today! Engine hoist stuck in gravel is not very fun.

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PostPosted: Fri Apr 20, 2018 6:59 pm 
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Time Lapse video of the tear down. Will take off the crank pulley and timing cover later on today.

https://youtu.be/SjviTqlYF5Y

My garage is a mess. Messier than usual lol

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PostPosted: Tue May 01, 2018 3:43 am 
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Engine dropped off at Akamai Machines in Kailua Kona, HI. Yes I drove over 130 miles and 2 hours 30 minutes just to get there. Was asked how the hell I got the engine into my Taurus lol

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2000 Bonneville SSEi
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2013 Taurus SEL


Last edited by 20SSEi00 on Tue May 01, 2018 1:49 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Tue May 01, 2018 11:03 am 
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Ah the big island..

I put a short block into the back of a Grand Prix before.. only because the heads had to come off for 2 people to lift it into the trunk.

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PostPosted: Tue May 01, 2018 1:52 pm 
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95naSTA wrote:
Ah the big island..

I put a short block into the back of a Grand Prix before.. only because the heads had to come off for 2 people to lift it into the trunk.


Where housing is still affordable lol..

Now THAT is a candidate for a how the hell did you do that.. Was it a 3.4?

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