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PostPosted: Wed Apr 29, 2015 7:02 am 
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Location: Rochester, NY
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Yesterday I managed to put boat roller transmission mount in and my mount wasn't torn or damaged but I could move it a little by hand. Now with the harder mount in, my car vibrates more in reverse, during torque converter lock up, and while accelerating while locked up. Any ideas? It is making my cluster gauge vibrate and any other plastic components. Could my problem be engine mounts or rear tranny mount?

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Last edited by FiendScurro on Fri May 01, 2015 4:33 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 29, 2015 9:49 am 
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This is the mount that I sold you? If so, it had the sway bar bushing on the bottom. You shouldn't have any excess vibration.

I have noticed that some people are pickier when it comes down to vibration. Something that wouldn't bother me at all, is unbearable to someone else.

I've never seen a left or right side mount fail. The rears do fail, but I would suspect it to cause vibration.

It all boils down to, if you don't like the feel of the solid mount, install the stock mount and wait for it to break.

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 29, 2015 11:14 am 
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It only vibrates when I mentioned. Idle is nice now which is what I was hoping to improve. I measured the mount and made sure it was at 3.75 installed. Should it be even shorter with engine resting on it? When the converter locks up at 1500 the vibration is like a push lawn mower handle feel not jarring. Also makes a rumbling noise. It shifts nice and launches nice.

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 29, 2015 1:09 pm 
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Mine got less vibey as time went on. Rubber must have broken in. Still get it under TCC lock up, but not too bad. Doesn't really bother me though. As Andrew said, it may depend on the person.

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 29, 2015 1:37 pm 
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It's only a bother if it means something is wrong. It's my biggest anxiety trigger. Now either we both have a problem or its normal for the mount and ill just get used to it. Maybe if more boat rollers chime in I'll feel better about the vibration and invest in some foam to put between my dash components.

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 29, 2015 1:48 pm 
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You may have over tightened the mount. If you squish the soft rubber too much it wont do its job any more. Just a thought.

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 29, 2015 2:47 pm 
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Well I tightened it down so it was same height as stock mount. I suppose I could loosen it a few turns and see how it goes. It is squished 1/4 inches

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 29, 2015 2:59 pm 
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Vibes are neither harmful nor a problem at all, it's just a personal preference. Just be happy you've never felt a puck mount without the swaybar bushing… Hahaha

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 29, 2015 3:46 pm 
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Lol noted

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 29, 2015 4:49 pm 
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Just as a side note, where is the rear trans mount located I've been under there multiple times and haven't noticed it.

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 30, 2015 3:18 pm 
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So I did a test for rear mount. I was told to put foot on breaks and hit gas while in reverse. If engine trys to jump out at you its bad. Well I get about 3or 4 inches of movement with only a tap on gas. I didn't stomp on it. Is this test accurate? If so my rear mount is prob dead lol

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 30, 2015 3:38 pm 
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Yeah you should have basically no movement since you have the solid front mount. The most mine moves even while stopping on it is 1/2".

The rear mount is a PITA. 100x more difficult than the front.

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 30, 2015 3:57 pm 
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Yah I finally located it. Under the rack assembly dead center of subframe. Gotta hang subframe as if I was installing the rack right? Or do I need more room then just letting the rear of the subframe hang?

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 30, 2015 4:02 pm 
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Here is what the FSM says:

    Raise and support the vehicle.
    Remove the power steering gear heat shield.
    Remove the power steering pressure hose from the rack and pinion and hang from the exhaust pipe.
    Remove the power steering return hose from the rack and pinion and hang from the exhaust pipe.
    Support the transaxle with a transaxle support stand.
    Remove nuts from the mount bracket.
    Remove the lower bolts and nut from the mount
    Remove the three retaining bolts from the mount bracket.
    Remove the mount and the mount bracket from the vehicle.


Attachments:
Rear Trans Mount.pdf [198.99 KiB]
Downloaded 83 times

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 30, 2015 4:06 pm 
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I hate messing with power steering. Is it necessary? Me and power steering do not get along... alao what would a transaxle support stand consist of? Jack and wood?

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 30, 2015 4:32 pm 
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The other option would be dropping the rear of the subframe enough to get the mount out.

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 30, 2015 4:49 pm 
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Just a thought on the vibration. I don't have the solid mount in my 2005 Bonneville as back ground. I have a '92 SSE with a Series I 3800. The vibration is considerably more in the '92 than the 2005. The steering wheel and instrument cluster have vibrated in the '92 since the car was new. - BC

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 30, 2015 6:53 pm 
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I had a bit more vibration than I cared for after I installed mine. It was not as bad as you describe yours as being, however. I added a wide rubber washer between the mount and the frame, and that took care of the problem for me.

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PostPosted: Fri May 01, 2015 10:01 am 
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Shop confirms. Rear mount is shot. Damaged my return power steering hose as well and needs to be fixed to pass inspection. Yay...bad news stacks up. I have to let them do it because I just don't have the time to mess with mount and they already have to remove power steering lines from rack so might as well replace the return line while they are at it. 130 for just the line...

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PostPosted: Fri May 01, 2015 2:28 pm 
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Ouch, these "inspections" sound like a pain in the ass. I really hope CA doesn't catch on any time soon. They seem to like to lead in stupidity.

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