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PostPosted: Tue Feb 24, 2015 2:49 pm 
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Ok my 02 Bonnie sle abs light came on followed by the traction control light shutting off, then out of the blue my no traction light came on and my car acted like as if I was stopping on ice, rainy weather. (Of course it's sunny and dry at the moment) autozone scanner said zero reading on front passenger hub so in research my sensor is probably bad? Questions are....
1. Can I continue to drive???
2. Will just unplugging the sensor temporarily work - could I still drive.
3. If and if possible, can I unplug the abs fuse and drive??
I just want to make sure I will be ok to drive till I fix and if I can do anything to stop the abs from freaking out till then. I've seen mixed reviews on this butchered enter to get info than from my fellow Bonnie lovers. Thank u for your time


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 24, 2015 3:30 pm 
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If you pull the fuse that should stop the abs pump from activating. You'll still have brakes just no anti lock or traction control. Also check the wiring at the sensor, could just be a bad wire.

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PostPosted: Tue Feb 24, 2015 3:35 pm 
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ABS "Ice Mode" is dangerous, if not just plain suicidal for everyday driving. The only use for it is to give a driver that last opportunity to deflect a path of travel when the road surface to tire coefficient of friction is extremely low, and perhaps minimizing the severity of an imminent crash.

My '93 SSE did the same thing. Only quick thinking, and a good parking brake kept me from a crash. I pulled the 30 amp ABS control fuse.

That leaves the ABS and TC lights on. The car will not have TC or ABS.

The brakes will otherwise function normally. But you will be able to lock them up. It is then like driving a pre-ABS car.

Since my car falls into the "OBD1.5" category, it is hard to find an answer to what specific component is the root of my problem.
For you, at least you know where the issue is originating. But I am not sure what effect disconnecting the sensor would have.
By pulling the fuse, you disable the ABS pump's ability to reduce or modulate hydraulic pressure to the wheels.

Not that many years ago, GM had to issue a recall for the Yukon/Tahoe/Suburban/Silverado 4WD trucks. Corrosion would cause problems with the front wheel sensor trigger wheels, interrupting the signal. A bunch of "Can't Stop!" ABS related rear-end crashes happened; customers and the NTSB jumped on GM about the problem. ABS is a great thing to have, when it works reliably. But when it fails in activated mode, braking distances are greatly increased, and braking power/effectiveness is drastically reduced. Nothing to take a chance on.

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PostPosted: Tue Feb 24, 2015 3:41 pm 
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Living on the west coast I often wonder if abs is even necessary. There are times where I hit a series of bumps, say a slightly angled bridge that is about an inch higher than the road surface and it activates the abs dropping my braking power. It used to happen in the same spot every day on my way home from work, and the bridge was about 50' from a stop sign on a 50+ mph road. Drove me nuts in my Sierra.

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PostPosted: Tue Feb 24, 2015 3:55 pm 
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xxdabroxx wrote:
Living on the west coast I often wonder if abs is even necessary. There are times where I hit a series of bumps, say a slightly angled bridge that is about an inch higher than the road surface and it activates the abs dropping my braking power. It used to happen in the same spot every day on my way home from work, and the bridge was about 50' from a stop sign on a 50+ mph road. Drove me nuts in my Sierra.


There is a curving road with a hill that has ripples in the pavement on the "going down" side. A traffic light intersection is at the bottom. Traffic backs up sometimes. I can't be the only driver to have ever gotten ABS activation over those bumps, making me wonder whether it would cause me to hit a vehicle in front of me. I don't use that road much in that direction, particularly in wet weather. Lockup is preferable to a crash.....

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PostPosted: Tue Feb 24, 2015 3:57 pm 
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Yeah, I'd much rather the back end wiggle a bit than have the brakes not work at all.

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PostPosted: Tue Feb 24, 2015 6:47 pm 
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Lol both wonderful responses yet two different again. So it's ok to pull the abs fuse and drive, it just won't have abs but I will still have brakes I can still drive and stop etc....am I correct? And in doing this I wont damage anything?


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 24, 2015 7:16 pm 
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oceanblu_i wrote:
Lol both wonderful responses yet two different again. So it's ok to pull the abs fuse and drive, it just won't have abs but I will still have brakes I can still drive and stop etc....am I correct? And in doing this I wont damage anything?


Everyone is essentially saying the same thing. Yes, it's ok to pull the fuse and drive, you just won't have ABS or Traction Control so drive accordingly.

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PostPosted: Tue Feb 24, 2015 8:06 pm 
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Thank you! Sorry for being slow I appreciate your feedback!


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 24, 2015 8:18 pm 
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Excuse me sorry, but I'm see it says a 10 amp abs fuse and I read about a 30amp one.....know where it is? If two which do I pull? Thank you again!!


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 24, 2015 8:24 pm 
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oceanblu_i wrote:
Excuse me sorry, but I'm see it says a 10 amp abs fuse and I read about a 30amp one.....know where it is? If two which do I pull? Thank you again!!


Definitely consult your owner's manual for the location.

Mine was in the main fuse panel in the engine compartment, up against the top of the firewall, behind a plastic cover. That cover is a pain to get off, and harder to reinstall. Yes it was a 30 amp fuse. It is big.

Yours is a newer car, and the setup may be different. Remember, my car is a '93.

But realize that you want to pull the fuse which deactivates the ABS/TC pump. 10 amps seems way small for that job, more likely to be part of a triggering or warning system than power to the pump itself.

There are commonly now two fuse panels for cars, and have been for some time. The one you want to get to is the main one, where there are big circuit breakers and relays, not just the little plug-in fuses which are used for lights, etc. The "Heavy Duty" main panel is in the engine compartment. The smaller one is usually in the passenger compartment close to the dash... Wish I knew your generation of car better, hope someone else will chime in and point you to the exact spot.

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PostPosted: Wed Feb 25, 2015 2:39 am 
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You've been amazing thank u


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 25, 2015 5:13 pm 
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I believe the 2000+ models have 3 fuse blocks. One next to the battery, under the back seat, one under the hood (my money on where the ABS fuse is) and one by the drivers feet.

Also, your tire pressure monitoring uses wheel speed sensors too, so that is one more thing to be aware of and keep tabs on.

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PostPosted: Wed Feb 25, 2015 5:20 pm 
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2000+ have two fuse blocks. One under the back seat, and one under the hood. ABS is under the hood.

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PostPosted: Wed Feb 25, 2015 5:57 pm 
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Awesome thank u


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