cps= crankshaft positioning sensor [fyi]

bought the CPS replacement as I had the service engine light on and had it scanned at autozone. Bought the part any tips/guides on replacing it. Seems easier to have shop to do it based on the following...

"I would have it done at a shop because once done a "crankshaft relearn procedure" should be done which a scantool is required...also you need a puller for the harmonic balancer and a flywheel holding tool so you can remove balancer holding bolt. " seems more difficult than knock sensor, but less important than CPS

also need the knock sensor same thing, bought it need to replace seems easy to do yourself. CPS seems to involve the pc "re learning" so would it be better done at a shop and see if they can do both at same time 200$ dollar job or so if i buy part myself?

*my RPM gauge isnt working correctly either, it either works than doesn't or just sits at zero, how to fix?

Car didnt come with a remote key chain door unlock either, is there a way to buy a replacement ? Was thinking about buying a auotstarter for winter, maybe it comes with that im not sure.

Also i just bought this car,any advice on what i should have checked out and looked at/ maintenance guide fora 2000 SLE 156k. Previous owner didnt have any record of work done etc.

ty

mechanic verified its CPS also motor mount is going and front CV axels, the catalytic converter was also stolen and a straight pipe was put in, said he could put a universal one in for about 2-300$ is it worth it?

knock sensor was a old code he said.

An intermittent tach is one of the symptoms of a bad crankshaft position sensor. Much will depend on how much you enjoy wrenching on cars and your skill level. You can hold the flywheel by removing the inspection cover on the transmission and holding the flywheel with a pair of vise grips. You'll need a long cheater bar to remove the bolt from the harmonic balancer, and will need the tool to remove the balancer. You'll likely need to buy the proper bolts to thread in the balancer. The tool could be rented from an auto parts store. The relearn should be done following a replacement of the CPS.

You may want to consider the boat roller mount to replace the bad mount. See the sticky at the top of the page.

Andrew (Harofreak00) was selling 2 keyfobs and the receiver. You may want to check with him to see if he has any left.

The front knock sensor is relatively easy to replace. The back is not.

The cat should be replaced.

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*Gone, but not forgotten* - Black 2000 SSEi, HIR Headlights, Angel Eyes fogs, 3rd brake light overlay, hi-flo cat, 180 degree thermostat, HS 1.9 rockers, LSx yellow springs, Intense FWI, PCM, shift kit, push rods, and 3.4 Pulley. ZZP Power Log.

i had them do the CPS sensor and motor mount already done. they didnt specify if it was front or back knock sensor, just that it was a old code.

have to see if it pops up again after work is done, already have it in shop to do the CPS sensor and had a auto start installed with remote keyless entry

universal or oem cat? OEM i think was around 800$ universal 300$ and is that something that can wait till summer for me to do?

gas gauge seems another common problem s noted in the sticky as well as the dashboard lights cant see anything for clock or radio.another one in the sticky i saw.

$2400 for a 2000 with 155k milaage, + $600 to fix the above. wish i would of taken it in to the shop before buying sadly, told the guy about these and he's not willing to give any cash back for the repairs not even half i have a free lawyer through work though, but not sure or if id be eligible to take him to small claims cort under any condition, oh well live and learn...

When you expect a crank learn to be done, you should make sure you specify it. Most mechanics will put on a new crank sensor and as long as it starts and runs, there's very little need for a learn. Although it does optimize things.

Also.. technically if you are looking through manuals etc, CPS is camshaft position sensor, CKPS is the crankshaft position sensor. I know..but GM had to keep us on our toes.

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97 Ei
97 GS
98 GS

I see, well both times code came back crankshaft position sensor.

So they replaced it, tachometer is still not working at times,just sits at zero other times it works. Drove car home from shop no engine light. Turned car off and then started again to go to work, "service engine light" back on

Parked car for work and went to 7-11 later light was off then back on when i left work to go home.

also service tech said it didnt need to a "re-learn" because the part with the wiring was not damaged but the other part, *dang* i forget how he described it because i did ask if they did a "
re-learn" when i picked it up. IS that true depending on which part needs replacing nore learn needs to be done?

This is what GM says about it.



Take your car to an autoparts store and have them pull the code(s) for you. Then, report back as to what those codes are.

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*Gone, but not forgotten* - Black 2000 SSEi, HIR Headlights, Angel Eyes fogs, 3rd brake light overlay, hi-flo cat, 180 degree thermostat, HS 1.9 rockers, LSx yellow springs, Intense FWI, PCM, shift kit, push rods, and 3.4 Pulley. ZZP Power Log.

the code the shop i went to pulled was they said for the crankshaft positioning sensor,they also said the re learn was not needed due to it having two parts and the part that needed to be replaced for the needed re learn was not replaced. im taking it back tomorrow to have it re scanned, guy has the pricey scanner he has to pay a monthly fee for, i can't recall the scan machine he used was called.

auto part store i first went to was auto zone, and he said it pulled knock sensor and crankshaft position sensor, mechanic shop said knock sensor was a old code and should wait to replace after crankshaft position sensor be replaced and see if it still throws the knock sensor code.

The actual code numbers are more helpful than the description of the code.

I don't know what the mechanic may have replaced that doesn't need the relearn. There's a cover for the sensor, the sensor itself that is one piece, and the connector. If he just replaced the connector, a relearn would not be needed. If so, that apparently did not fix the problem.

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*Gone, but not forgotten* - Black 2000 SSEi, HIR Headlights, Angel Eyes fogs, 3rd brake light overlay, hi-flo cat, 180 degree thermostat, HS 1.9 rockers, LSx yellow springs, Intense FWI, PCM, shift kit, push rods, and 3.4 Pulley. ZZP Power Log.

the sensor was the part replaced as that it what i bought and what they used.

so I drove out to 7-11 again during work and car was accelerating like crap, didnt seem to shift at proper times either, dropped car off. called them they were like ya we had to do the re learn procedure...

could not doing it damage anything, anything i should check before i take it home from the shop today? obviously i feel i should not pay anything for this second visit as i told them to do it the last time.

You may want to have them come with you for a test drive, when you go to pick it up. Make sure the tach is working properly, the check engine light doesn't come back and that there is no hesitation during acceleration. A bad knock sensor can cause that type of hesitation.

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*Gone, but not forgotten* - Black 2000 SSEi, HIR Headlights, Angel Eyes fogs, 3rd brake light overlay, hi-flo cat, 180 degree thermostat, HS 1.9 rockers, LSx yellow springs, Intense FWI, PCM, shift kit, push rods, and 3.4 Pulley. ZZP Power Log.

knock sensor was a old stored code they stated, not sure if it is working or not part is chep 40$ and a easy install though.

They say the tachometer still is not working all the time but when they tap on the ICM it starts working again, or going over a bump in the road.

-the service engine light is saying it's the ICM another pricey $267 installed..

*dang* i wish it wasnt snowing and wintery i'd try to do some of this sht myself.

is it a pretty easy job? i did it on my thunderbird but it was so easy on that car to replace ICM. literally two bolts and un clip it done.

hareo makes it sound very easy

"One of the easist things you can replace.

7mm socket on the ICM wiring harness, and a 5.5mm socket on the coil bolts, lift the coils straight up, and the ICM should pull straight up also."
>http://www.pontiacbonnevilleclub.com/forum/2000-2005-other-than-gxp/topic17455.html

would i need dialectic grease on anything?

It is easy to replace, and I'd contact Harofreak00 for a good used one, instead of paying that price for new. The tach signal does pass through the ICM, so it is possible that that is the cause of the intermittent.

If you want to put a little dielectric grease between the ICM and mounting plate, and also some small dabs on the posts on the ICM that connect to the coils, it would be a good idea. Also, once you get things back together, one by one, pull the spark plug wires off the coils, and put some grease on those posts.

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*Gone, but not forgotten* - Black 2000 SSEi, HIR Headlights, Angel Eyes fogs, 3rd brake light overlay, hi-flo cat, 180 degree thermostat, HS 1.9 rockers, LSx yellow springs, Intense FWI, PCM, shift kit, push rods, and 3.4 Pulley. ZZP Power Log.

I would also check the wiring before swapping the ICM. I have seen a loose ICM connector (7mm not being snug) cause these types of issues as well. And it could very well be the ICM.

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97 Ei
97 GS
98 GS

i got him to do the job for just cost of parts since i explained how easy it was to do. Tachometer is working nice,car is running nice as well. ty for help guys. will check plugs next.

next up to replace the burnt out bulbs in the radio display looks arduous

heard the trans are known for metal shavings in the pan? on older ones, mines 156k

Also reading bout the rust/bubble problem under the gas cap, sadly mine has many many bubbles and some rust showing, and this is my daily driver car in IM so lots of salt/snow etc etc. how can i slow the process of this corrosion cancer? i dont think the car is wroth cutting and re placing the panel section as it seems to costly. but id rather not have a giant hole...


i was looking at the coolant over flow tank ?the dex cool is orange and if i wipe the inside with my finger there is a brownish/black residue on it, ill take a photo tomorrow, is this normal? i was reading it is but wanted to double check.
this photo is remarkably similar to what is in my overflow tank the color/consistency
>http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=105198

if i get a few years out of this car ill be pretty happy.