A few days ago I noticed that when I took really fast turns acceleration around the turn was very sluggish. Everything seems ok on normal acceleration (spins tires when dumping the throttle and has nice kick when downshifting, its just around turns that it seems to fumble like not enough fuel line pressure. I thought I read someone had an issue like this here awhile back but can't remember. Fuel filter not that old and just recently cleaned the throtle body through and through++. Any ideas?

Check your gas. I hear it has to be over 1/3 full or you occasionally get that cut out on hard turns.

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2001 Bonneville SSEi. 1598xx mi.
great car. Wrecked


Burnt Bonny.

Note if you pull the injectors to obserbe fuel delivery...make sure you leave the plugs in and disconnect the ign. Believe me

That has not been an issues with the 2k+. I have to ask, when you say it spins the tires, are both spinning? It is not good to spin the tires and have only 1 spin, even for a second. This causes a lot of damage to the differential in these transmissions.

I would say first of all to take a look at both axles and make sure you do not have a CV joint leaking or going bad.

Cv's are good for sure, its not a drivetrain issue in this case...definitely a fuel delivery issue. Tank is full,
possible fuel pump or maybe is there a body sensor issue that could be cutting fuel delivery??

Carl, just hopeful word to the wise. Matt and many long term members here know a hellava a lot and more about these cars. I have thought "it can't be that, I know better". Only to find out they are spot on.

Keep us posted

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2001 Bonneville SSEi. 1598xx mi.
great car. Wrecked


Burnt Bonny.

Note if you pull the injectors to obserbe fuel delivery...make sure you leave the plugs in and disconnect the ign. Believe me

I don't know the names here and maybe didn't express the issue correct...but the loss of acceleration I am referring to exhaust sputter when I accelearate hard on sharp turns.

Could be the torque management kicking in or severe KR.

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Ok, this is hasn't happened until recent, nothing done that could have caused it. Is there a way to check the operation or bypass the management system to start eliminating things? Or would this throw codes?

One thing you can do is drive with a fuel pressure tester. That would be the sure fire way to eliminate fuel pressure drop at acceleration during hard turns.

Does it do it in slower, normal turns?

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Thats a good idea, I will see if I can get something connected in-line. It doesn't do this on normal turns, and its not reallty a major problem at this time, but it can likely go there. I rather nip it now if possible. If it were a different era vehilce I might be checking the carb float/level, but with injectors it doesn't really make alot of sense, its all direct, unless a motion sensor is cutting it. Do you know if this vehicle has fuel pressure cut-off switch like some of the the Fords have? the one that cuts off fuel line pressure if in an accident. I will look at the filter again also. Thanks again.

Other than running on an empty tank, there is nothing that would cause you to lose fuel just in a turn.

Take a video of what it is doing and post it here. Do the RPM's change? How fast are you turning when this happens? Have you inspected the CV joints? Have you checked the transmission fluid level? Does it do the same thing on a hill?

Ok, the best I can describe is sluggish-ness after applying the brake around the turn(not stopping complete) and then immediately accelerating. I cannot really capture this effect in the video. Maybe I might be able to capture it with audio if the exhaust stumble is audible to the cam from inside. Its brief but very noticable, additional acceleration seems to correct it pretty quickly.

If you were exiting a highway ramp late night(no cars) at 35-40mph and are about to stop at the light at the base of the off-ramp. You are still moving 15-20mph, then it turns green and you hit the accelerator, thats when you feel it stumble, almost like a miss. I cannot be aware enough to monitor the rpm's at the same time as watching where I'm going. I don't think I will see it in the rpm..it would be a glitch. I have not been able to replicate it on a hill because there are only certain opportunities you have to accelerate around turns. This is not in any way performance or spirited driving if thats what you mean, just accelerating because the adavantage is available. But there is definitely heavy momentum involved around the turn even at 30-35mph. The road surface being level no hill or slants.

In the past I did have issues with cv's from Napa, so I can't rule out that it damaged the diff. if it somehow senses and sends a de-acceleration signal to the motor. The original cv's were replaced due to ripped boot. However the originals were re-installed and the car hasn't had any problem until several months later. Trans level is good and OEM trans filter was replaced.about same time cv's. All by me... I know what condition everything is in. I will replace the output shaft seal on the passenger side when I get the tool, but no leakage is there. I can try a test with the tracking monitor off if that will isolate it?
Ok thank you, thank you.

Check your coils according to the techinfo article. How old are the plugs and wires? What plugs are you running?

Plugs and wires are almost 20k..NGK Iradium IX (I believe TR55IX? I need to look to verify part#). I don't remember the replacement wire type, I got them either at Napa or CarQuest. Is the bulletin linked on this site? The coils / ICM have not ever been replaced. It has 87k. Thanks again.

I'd consider replacing the wires and plugs

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2001 Bonneville SSEi. 1598xx mi.
great car. Wrecked


Burnt Bonny.

Note if you pull the injectors to obserbe fuel delivery...make sure you leave the plugs in and disconnect the ign. Believe me

delete

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1999 Bonneville SSE-79k
1970 Monte Carlo SS-waiting for new motor/trans best 12.5 at 109

2001 Regal GS-modded
1999 Olds 88-22,000 original miles
2004 Impala SS
1997 Regal GS-best 13.9 at 98.2
1999 Regal GS
2000 Regal GS
1997 Regal GS

Best bet is to start your own thread, so people don't start cross helping.

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