I would love to know how you have no vibration yet everyone else does? Sounds like a BS statement.

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2009 Ford Flex 63K[/u] My DD & super utilitarian vehicle that we call the White Bus.
2006 Honda Accord EX V6 Coupe 73k; Wife's hot rod & highway ride.
SOLD: 2002 Bonneville SLE; 230K, Mods: Solid hockey puck front mount, Intense FWI intake, 180 degree thermostat, Magna Flow high-flow cat, ZZP O2 emulator: Nothing major but maintenance and what it takes to keep the dash lights off and the mileage up..
2004 Bonneville SLE 201k, Pearl White (Old man's ride)

Drive my car. If it's there, I've never felt it.

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Bye Bye:

RIP sandrock

I personally think its a good idea. Let him try it.

Hows it working for you man??? Like it or no?

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1989 Pontiac Firebird Formula 350
2004 Saturn Ion 3 Quad Coupe

Not trashing your mount, just making sure that anyone who comes across this thread is fully informed of the advantages and disadvantages of each. I hope yours works, glad you're ensuring you get precisely what you want.

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Bye Bye:

RIP sandrock

No you are not. You are trying to validate your opinion and discredit others. You said there are no disadvantages and clearly there are some that exist. This has been discussed at length on this forum by many members. Lets stick to the truth.

Your mount looks good. Let me know how it works out for you. I need to find a way to cut the vibration down on mine.

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2009 Ford Flex 63K[/u] My DD & super utilitarian vehicle that we call the White Bus.
2006 Honda Accord EX V6 Coupe 73k; Wife's hot rod & highway ride.
SOLD: 2002 Bonneville SLE; 230K, Mods: Solid hockey puck front mount, Intense FWI intake, 180 degree thermostat, Magna Flow high-flow cat, ZZP O2 emulator: Nothing major but maintenance and what it takes to keep the dash lights off and the mileage up..
2004 Bonneville SLE 201k, Pearl White (Old man's ride)

Appears to work it is a stiff mount compared to stock but there is give in both directions. I don't want a solid mount because I think something will eventually break. I don't have any dyno numbers but I turned a 13.5 @ 105 mph before the L26 block.

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02 SSEI, 1.94 Yella Terra,Gen5 , N*,2-1/4""Phenolic Intercooler,
I SELL, Phenolic Intercoolers, Pulley Pullers, Throttle Bodies, Etc...!!

Notes for those interested.

Energy Suspension 94102 approx. $30 with shipping from ebay
2 of everthing shown in picture is included.


I shortened the sleeves 3/4" so that they did not limit urethane travel.
Hole in transmission mount is actually for a 12mm bolt not a 1/2" so I had to ream it out with a drill so the all thread would slide smooth.
Needed approximately 10.5" long 1/2" all thread
I added a spacer between the cradle and the transmission mount to maintain the 3.75"-3.875" motor mount dimension.

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02 SSEI, 1.94 Yella Terra,Gen5 , N*,2-1/4""Phenolic Intercooler,
I SELL, Phenolic Intercoolers, Pulley Pullers, Throttle Bodies, Etc...!!

I like the mount a lot. No vibration and it moves a little.

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02 SSEI, 1.94 Yella Terra,Gen5 , N*,2-1/4""Phenolic Intercooler,
I SELL, Phenolic Intercoolers, Pulley Pullers, Throttle Bodies, Etc...!!

From an engineering standpoint, the hockey puck mount is a joke. Its solid in the direction load would be applied but allows some movent downward, allowing the whole assembly to become uncompressed. Id like to see the bolts or threaded rod from a hokey (no typo) mount after 10000 miles.

I really like the o.p.'s mount except I would like to use some sort of brass sleeve to protect the bolt and the main bracket from sliding friction that could wear them.

The old Pontiac Bonneville Club stands on certain topics become religion to some folks. Similare to real religion its not often based on much fact.

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02 SSEi-Turning money into tire smoke, very efficiently.

Allows movement when? If its properly tightened when installed there's no movement up or down. Hockey pucks arent soft, you know that.

I used this when I did my mount...


I did grind the bracket so that the mount was squared up a few weeks after I initially installed it. Lasted me 100K till I got rid of the car.

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If its literally rock solid, why use hockey pucks? Why not have intense start turning some aluminum pucks and sell them for $100 or so?

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02 SSEi-Turning money into tire smoke, very efficiently.

Cause people can make the mount for $20 and not spend $100. Im sure you could also make a mount with some thick rubber and a metal pipe.

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The hockey puck mount was a cost cutting way to replace the ill-engineered factory mount(ill engineered in the way that GM didnt seem to think that you would have guys flogging Bonnevilles, it is an old persons car after all). It ischeap, it is effective and lasts, I dont know of any posts where someone has had one fail. Its the essence of hot rodding or car crafting, if you will.

And yes I am all for people coming up with new ideas and engineering new ways to do things.

The one thing I would be "worried" about with the OP mount would be the side to side movement it looks like it would allow during hard launches and hard cornering while accelerating.

But we wont know until he puts some REAL miles on it(20K for example). I do hope we get updates about this in the future.

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Hockey pucks or steel washers, they are both about the same. Not sure why people use hockey pucks, they look the same size as the original mount but with a bolt that goes through everything there is no give. The original mount has rubber in tension which always seems to fail.

Wish energy suspension made a more direct replacement like this.

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02 SSEI, 1.94 Yella Terra,Gen5 , N*,2-1/4""Phenolic Intercooler,
I SELL, Phenolic Intercoolers, Pulley Pullers, Throttle Bodies, Etc...!!

Thats the point, no movement. Pucks are semi readily available and cheap.

I guess Im not getting why you are so against a solid mount. Theres more than enough give in the other 3 mounts.

If you could find a chuck of polyurethane the same height as the stock mount you would be doing the same thing as the Energy mounts, they are polyurethane.

And back in the day, like the first mount in your ES pic, people would drill two holes through the factory rubber mount and basically bolt the two metal halves together through the rubber, again, making a solid mount.

The more movement you have going up in the engine, the less power is getting transferred to the ground.

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Its all about limiting excessive movement....

This is a solid mount....


Car crafting "solid mount".....

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I like your mount, was thinking about doing something like that but went to the puck.
I'm using my version of the hockey puck and I love it compared to the stock mount which I was replacing about once a year driving normal(to me). I have two and a half pucks on top of the subframe. I cut one down on a lathe at work. I also used a harder MOOG end link and modified it a little and put it under and between the frame and bolt head/washer. It absorbs/compresses when you nail it. I have very little vibration, don't notice it anymore unless I think about it.
I'm not racing it and no mods, just back and forth to work and running the kids around.

While I do tend to agree with you, I don't think the groupthink mentality applies too much to the hockey puck mount. So many people on here have run the solid mount for way more than 10,000 miles, subjected to mods and increased power levels, runs at the drag strip, and I still haven't heard of anyone who's had a failure.

Rubber compared to steel washers is quite different when it comes to vibration damping. The pucks don't get rid of it all, but you can bet that they'll take most of it out. The slight extra give of a sway bar bushing accounts for the rest, yet still the net movement is less than a stock mount. There is no metal on metal contact.

I think that the misunderstanding here is that "rock solid" is relative. The hockey pucks + sway bushing are way stiffer than any OE or aftermarket spec mount and allow virtually no movement, yet still have a slight amount of give that keeps things reasonably comfortable and won't break your trans case or bend your subframe when you give'er.

That said, the OP's design looks like it'll work. What's the Shore hardness on the mount polyurethane?

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Jerry /// Past: 95 SSEi (June 2010 COTM) -- 04 GXP (July 2011 COTM)
91 Honda Civic Wagon DX 2WD (fuelly) -- 208,000km -- 92hp -- Autocross Warrior
09 Lexus LS460 AWD -- 94,000km -- Daily Driver
09 White Hot G8 GT -- 155,000km (fuelly) -- LS3 Cam -- GM LS3 CNC Ported Heads -- Kooks 1 3/4" Long Tube Headers -- Solo Catback Midsection -- Hooker Maxflow Mufflers -- Pat G Tune -- Rotofab Intake -- Tein S-Tech Springs -- GXP FE3 Dampers -- BMR Subframe Cradle Inserts -- BMR Subframe Connectors -- Forgestar F14 Gold 18x9 +40 -- Michelin Pilot Super Sport 245/45/18 -- Maverick Man Carbon Fiber Spoiler

I used the same thing and have mine tightened up with no poly bushing. Nothing has broken and I love the vibration. Been running this for about 50k now. You can also tell a difference with a bushing when launching the car.

I am one of those people who grew up driving old V-8's that rattled your teeth at idle..............and I love a little vibration, it lets me know it is alive.

I was looking for a near stock mount that doesn't fail every year. I give enough info if anyone else is interested. Again dont do it if you don't like.

I don't no the hardness nore do I no the effective spring rate.

The energy suspension stuff was $30 bucks plus all thread, nuts and washers.

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02 SSEI, 1.94 Yella Terra,Gen5 , N*,2-1/4""Phenolic Intercooler,
I SELL, Phenolic Intercoolers, Pulley Pullers, Throttle Bodies, Etc...!!