is there a way to tell if it is bad? i can post a video tomorrow if you guys want. I felt the symptoms that can mean a bad mount (clunking, and when i shifted into drive facing up a hill, the trans didn't seem to engage for a second. i just rolled backwards.
how noticeable is the vibration from the hockey puck method? this is a DD, and while i would like better performance, im not looking for performance at the cost of comfort.
and is there a write-up on how to do that? the old thread on BC is deleted, and i couldn't find it here .

Your engine will have signif roll back on throttle if the front one is gone. A solid mount is just that, SOLID. I think you get more of a feel of what the car is doing with a solid mount. It def plants them quicker than an OEM hydraulic. I attribute it to riding in a 3rd Gen F-body, good performance feel but maybe not for your grandma....

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The difference in vibration is minimal at most, and IMO, its a good thing.

Pop your hood
Apply your parking brake
While holding the brake pedal, put the shifter in D and give it some gas, then put it in R and give it some gas

If the engine is moving more than ~2" the mount is shot.

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Andrew - owner/operator of Bonnevilles Unlimited

2004 Bonneville GXP | 60k | White Gold Tricoat | custom built supercharged 3800 hot rod | garage queen
1997 Corvette | 55k | Silver Metallic | Z06 wheels | Date-night Hauler/Parts runner
2014 Town & Country Limited | Cashmere Pearl | 95k | Family Hauler
2002 Ram 1500 Quad Cab Sport | Black| 260k | Official Bonneville Hauler

i checked it earlier today and i think it was more than 2". i will post a video tomorrow. do you have a write-up on it?

I can't get into BC/BF, but do a search for "solid motor mount" by "willwren", I did a writeup in there.

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Andrew - owner/operator of Bonnevilles Unlimited

2004 Bonneville GXP | 60k | White Gold Tricoat | custom built supercharged 3800 hot rod | garage queen
1997 Corvette | 55k | Silver Metallic | Z06 wheels | Date-night Hauler/Parts runner
2014 Town & Country Limited | Cashmere Pearl | 95k | Family Hauler
2002 Ram 1500 Quad Cab Sport | Black| 260k | Official Bonneville Hauler

You can make one (solid mount) its so simple, I made the first solid mount for the 2000+ Bonneville.
I like mine (140,000+ miles on it). Lift the hood, rock the car(back and forth) in park, see all that movement,
that is not good for all the fule lines, electrical lines, exhaust pipe so on and so on.
It will also help with the torque steer. It will help put the power to the ground.
I made a 3" wide motor mount for my car, but i made a 2 1/2" wide motor mount for a friend and it works just as GOOD.
We used a 2 1/2" hole saw and cut holes (wafers) out of the sidewall of an old truck tire. Cost for his solid mount $0.00 and he has over 40,000 miles on his with out any problems.
If I had to make a new one for my car I would use the wafers made out of the sidewall of an old truck tire.
The distance between the top of the BOTTOM cross member and the bottom of the TOP motor mount bracket is 3 5/8".
Go and make one up for your car, if you don't like it (you spent all of $5 for the solid mount) you can always go and buy the OEM pos mount.

ROD

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2000 SSEI (SOLD)
rods789 at comcast.net
PB 14.474 @ 96.248 PB 60' 2.168
180 therm AEM DRYFLOW Air Filters
3.33 pulley 3" cat back exhaust
custom solid front motor mount
custom 6" (BIG) intake
__WCBF '06, '07, '08, '11 survivor__

On another forum there was an extensive discussion on the front motor mount. Grumbling about it not lasting and being too expensive. Proposed solution was to fabricate a solid motor mount. Similar to the post above. Basic process was to drill a hole in frame to allow passage of a large bolt (7") from the bottom upwards. Spacers were made from either hockey pucks drilled through the center or boat trailer neoprene rollers (West Marine, etc.) Complaint was vibration/buzzing noise and solution was to isolate the head of the bolt from the frame with a strut end bushing sandwiched between two heavy washers.

Last week my car was leaking fluid by the radiator and it was red. so I got underneath thinking it was a transmission line. I couldnt find where the leak was coming from since it was by the frame. I took it to the dealer and found out it was the front motor mount, its the one on the left side behind the radiator. it has one bolt on top and one on the bottom. They told me that the motor mounts are oil filled, which its hydraulic fluid. I had never heard of that, so Im thinking if your mount is bad it would be leaking fluid. They charged $118. for the mount and $170.00 labor. thanks to having an extended warranty my part was 50.00.

Last week my car was leaking fluid by the radiator and it was red. so I got underneath thinking it was a transmission line. I couldnt find where the leak was coming from since it was by the frame. I took it to the dealer and found out it was the front motor mount, its the one on the left side behind the radiator. it has one bolt on top and one on the bottom. They told me that the motor mounts are oil filled, which its hydraulic fluid. I had never heard of that, so Im thinking if your mount is bad it would be leaking fluid. They charged $118. for the mount and $170.00 labor. thanks to having an extended warranty my part was 50.00.

My OEM mount was almost ripped in half, but no signs of fluid.

By the time most people notice the problem, the oil is long gone.

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*Gone, but not forgotten* - Black 2000 SSEi, HIR Headlights, Angel Eyes fogs, 3rd brake light overlay, hi-flo cat, 180 degree thermostat, HS 1.9 rockers, LSx yellow springs, Intense FWI, PCM, shift kit, push rods, and 3.4 Pulley. ZZP Power Log.