So I have replaced everything as stated in the common issues sticky for this problem (replaced plugs,wires,coils, and ICM) and it's still there. Any suggestions what this could be would be great.

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2002 SSEi "Raptor"

3.4, Headers, custom Cat-back, HP Tuner, 180 T-Stat, Intense FWI, Mild S/C porting, Autolite 104's, Belden Wires

I think its the torque converter clutch solenoid. Not allowing the converter to disengage when a load is put on it.

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The car does change down a gear if i give the appropriate amount of throttle, its when im trying to be easy on it just getting up to speed on the on ramp in OD that it starts surging, if i give it more gas it drops a gear just fine.

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2002 SSEi "Raptor"

3.4, Headers, custom Cat-back, HP Tuner, 180 T-Stat, Intense FWI, Mild S/C porting, Autolite 104's, Belden Wires

Im having the *exact* same problem. I've had it for over a year now. Changed plugs, replaced front trans mount, tested coils but still nothing, and its getting progressively worse. Now it happens on level roads, usually around 1500rpm when lightly pressing the gas.

Im taking the car tomorrow for an oil change, replacing a burned out headlamp, tire alignment etc, and will try to have them properly diagnose what the hell is wrong with this car. Im hoping they have a scan tool they can use while driving the car to see if any of the cylinders are misfiring, or if the TCC solenoid is working. If its an ignition problem, thats easy and cheap to fix. If it is the TCC, Im screwed. Just no possible way I can afford any work done on the trans minus a fluid change or something.

Exactly. The torque converter is unlocked when its not needed, I.e. dropping a gear.

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Does the tach bounce around while this happens?

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*Gone, but not forgotten* - Black 2000 SSEi, HIR Headlights, Angel Eyes fogs, 3rd brake light overlay, hi-flo cat, 180 degree thermostat, HS 1.9 rockers, LSx yellow springs, Intense FWI, PCM, shift kit, push rods, and 3.4 Pulley. ZZP Power Log.

Should also state that there is a diff between OD and OD in lock-up.

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I know this may sound odd, but check your front motor mount for tears. I think your getting engine rocking at low torque due to a torn front mount.

This very symptom went away after I switched to a solid (puck) mount.

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Mark
The Familyman's Trans-Am
Intense 3.4 MPS, Intense FWI, Intense PCM, copper NGKs TR55's, MSD wires, MSD coils, BWD ICM, MagnaFlow High Flow Cat, drilled 180 'stat, solid front mount, Monroe Max Air rear shocks, Moog rear mounts, Moog suspension bushings, cleared front corners, 190,000 miles

I had it before and I have it after doing a front mount also.

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yea i did the front mount a while ago with the pucks but never the rear, ive got one just gonna do it all at once

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2002 SSEi "Raptor"

3.4, Headers, custom Cat-back, HP Tuner, 180 T-Stat, Intense FWI, Mild S/C porting, Autolite 104's, Belden Wires

Just replace the rear one with a factory mount. DO NOT solid mount it.

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yea i have a factory one just havent gotten to it yet

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2002 SSEi "Raptor"

3.4, Headers, custom Cat-back, HP Tuner, 180 T-Stat, Intense FWI, Mild S/C porting, Autolite 104's, Belden Wires

I have had this issue for awhile, but now its more noticable. Have you fixed the issue yet?

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1995 Jeep Cherokee Country- 200,XXX miles and running strong. 4.0L paired with a 5 speed manual. 4.5" long arm lift with 32" tires and regeared to make up for power. Best of all, shes a fire engine red!

2000 Bonneville SSEi- 145,XXX miles, bonestock for the time (don't hold your breath, it might be a long while)

Typos courtesy of LG Optimus G- yes, I do most of my trolling with my phone. Don't judge me.

Getting the car back later today. Ended up being my torque converter. I try to do all my own work but i didnt have the proper equipment let alone the time to do this myself.

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2002 SSEi "Raptor"

3.4, Headers, custom Cat-back, HP Tuner, 180 T-Stat, Intense FWI, Mild S/C porting, Autolite 104's, Belden Wires

How did you find out? What would it cost to repair/replace the TCC? Im afraid to ask, because I just cant afford a transmission repair bill right now. As long as the problem doesnt leave me stranded somewhere, I dont mind having to put up with it until I get a new car. I've put way too much money in mine thus far.

If it might be the TC on mine, i had a friend tell me i should get a performance TC. I noticed intense-racing sells them... might be worth it for the stuff i plan on doing... Thats only if its the problem, i have to rule out ignition still.

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1995 Jeep Cherokee Country- 200,XXX miles and running strong. 4.0L paired with a 5 speed manual. 4.5" long arm lift with 32" tires and regeared to make up for power. Best of all, shes a fire engine red!

2000 Bonneville SSEi- 145,XXX miles, bonestock for the time (don't hold your breath, it might be a long while)

Typos courtesy of LG Optimus G- yes, I do most of my trolling with my phone. Don't judge me.

Only a cam will require a performance converter, and your car will be a dog if you put it in w/o a cam.

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Bye Bye:

RIP sandrock