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PostPosted: Mon Jun 06, 2011 12:53 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jun 09, 2008 5:02 pm
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Location: Fresno, CA.
Year and Trim: 2000 SSEi & 2005 SE
Ok, so here goes...attempt at a complete step by step for water pump replacement on a 2000 SSEi

1. Make sure it really is your water pump before continuing. Get a mechanics mirror and check under and behind the pump to check for leaking. This can happen when it is hot, when it is cold, running or not!
2. Once that has been determined wait until your car has cooled down and remove your radiator cap. Drain your coolant. What I did was run a 1/4 inch tube as far down inside my radiator as possible and siphoned it into my oil catch pan. You're going to change it anyway so it doesn't matter if it is spoiled or not. This will take a little while so go make a cup of coffee or grab a beer. Put the radiator cap back on to avoid the possibility of an "oh shoot" moment!
3. Now that the coolant is drained I removed the overflow coolant container (not proper name I know) so that I had more room to work. This has 2 nuts and 1 screw to remove and then the connector for the hose. Hint - use the same method as above to drain coolant from this but beware there will still be a little bit of coolant so use some towels or drop clothes to catch the residual. Here is a picture of the water pump before starting removal.
Image
4. Loosen the 4 bolts on the water pump pulley while the belt is still on so that it has the pressure of the belt on it otherwise it will just spin on you but don't try to remove.
5. Remove both belts using their respective tension pulleys (refer to picture above in this post for their names and locations). Also, remember to make a drawing of the path for later reference if you don't have a manual or any other means of reference to reinstall.
6. Finish removing bolts from water pump pulley and remove the pulley.
7. Remove 4 large bolts and 4 small bolts from the water pump. There will be residual coolant from each large bolt so be aware and put the oil catch pan underneath this area to avoid spillage. Below is a couple of pictures of an issue I had with the lower right large bolt. The idler pulley was in the way so it has to be removed before you can remove the bolt (see the pics below - the whitish bolt in the middle of the picture) and the rest of the water pump. Another tip that would have helped me greatly, it is regular thread so lefty loosy and it was not easily removed. I applied a good amount of pressure on the torx bit with an extension bar and it finally let go after a few seconds.
Image
Image
8. Once the idler pulley was removed the water pump still required a little urging with a whack or two from a hammer to free it and remove it.
9. Then the gasket clean up began. Mine was baked on the engine side of course so my grease monkey assistant went to work and diligently cleaned it to perfection. She is that way...Here she is...beautiful and handy as well!!
Image
10. Once the mating surface was free of all remaining old gasket we proceeded to install new water pump gasket and water pump. We went with the suggested upgraded S1 pump and pulley combo. Using the blue thread lock, as stated earlier in this thread, I proceeded to hand each one to my lovely assistant and she proceeded to snug up each one so that they could be torqued to the proper specs (again see the numbers from an earlier posting in this thread - 22 ft lbs large bolts, 11 ft lbs small bolts)
11. Once the water pump is installed and torque then reinstall the idler pulley and torque to proper specs (can't remember right off the top - 112 ft lbs I think) I couldn't really do this to well because of the clearance and not having the proper tools so be aware that the clearance is minimal.
12. Reinstall the belts in their proper configuration referencing your earlier drawing or other reference material.
13. Now that the water pump has been changed you can reinstall the overflow coolant reservoir with the 2 nuts and 1 screw remembering to reconnect the tube with the spring clamp or screw clamp.
14. Next step is to remove and change out the thermostat. I don't have a picture of this but I can get one if you need it just PM me or anybody here. It is on top of the engine and has the upper radiator hose running to it. It has 2 bolts that need to be removed. Take off the cover and remove the thermostat. When purchasing new thermostat mine did not come with the rubber gasket so check before you leave the store. I replaced both because the gasket was shot. Poor 50/50 coolant directly into the hole to fill LIM and block. Reinstall the cover and torque as needed (don't remember if it was needed or not).
15. Remove radiator cap and fill with new 50/50 coolant. This is where I had another issue that I wasn't aware of. Since you have had everything removed you have introduced air into the system so this air has to be purged or the coolant won't reach the thermostat to make it work. Once you have filled your radiator with coolant and put the cap back on start the car and let it idle until it gets up to temperature. On top of the thermostat cover are two nuts, while holding a wrench on the bottom one turn the top one counter clockwise to release the escaping air until you get a steady stream of coolant. Monitor your temp gauge inside to make sure it doesn't overheat during this phase. Mine seemed to take forever and I never did get a steady stream until I shut it down and checked the coolant level in the radiator. I restarted the car and added coolant to the top of the reservoir and then put the cap back on repeated the purging process and immediately got a steady stream. Note to self...remember to make sure you have enough coolant in the reservoir!!
16. Tightened up the purge screw, hosed down the engine where the coolant was spraying all over and then proceeded to test drive. Temp was a consistent 200 or below...success!!

If anybody could add a list of the bolt sizes for the water pump, torx bit size for the idler pulley that would be greatly appreciated and I hope this helps someone else feel a little bit more comfortable with the install. It is not difficult as long as you know all the little bumps along the way!!

_________________
2000 SSEi (Silver Eagle) cleared corners (before accident) new LIM gasket, drilled 180 T-stat, new plugs and wires, new valve cover gaskets, new Supercharger gasket, third brake light overlay. Hopefully soon to start more mods for performance. Also, 2005 White SE totally stock and will remain that way!
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Thank you Bob & Vince for your hard work and kindness!!


Last edited by Mac077 on Tue Jun 07, 2011 11:35 am, edited 7 times in total.

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 06, 2011 1:54 pm 
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One thing i like to do after water pump work is to fill the block and LIM with coolant through the thermostat hole just before reinstalling the thermostat.


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 06, 2011 1:56 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jun 09, 2008 5:02 pm
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Location: Fresno, CA.
Year and Trim: 2000 SSEi & 2005 SE
Good idea...I will add that to the write up...

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2000 SSEi (Silver Eagle) cleared corners (before accident) new LIM gasket, drilled 180 T-stat, new plugs and wires, new valve cover gaskets, new Supercharger gasket, third brake light overlay. Hopefully soon to start more mods for performance. Also, 2005 White SE totally stock and will remain that way!
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Thank you Bob & Vince for your hard work and kindness!!


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 06, 2011 4:33 pm 
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Joined: Thu Oct 21, 2010 2:42 pm
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Location: North Western Pa
Year and Trim: 2002 Bonneville SE
You talking 50/50 mix of coolant into LIM not straight coolant.
Same with radator.

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Cadet Blue....Not perfect...But paid for.
K&N Air Filter and Gutted air box. 180 Thermo Cleared Corners More to come.

"Unfortunately there is one thing standing between me and that property: the rightful owners."
- Hedley Lamarr, Blazing Saddles

"One morning I shot an elephant in my pajamas. How he got in my pajamas, I don't know." Capt. Geoffrey T. Spaulding - Groucho Marx - Animal Crackers


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 06, 2011 4:38 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jun 09, 2008 5:02 pm
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Location: Fresno, CA.
Year and Trim: 2000 SSEi & 2005 SE
yes...50/50 mix...updated write up!!

_________________
2000 SSEi (Silver Eagle) cleared corners (before accident) new LIM gasket, drilled 180 T-stat, new plugs and wires, new valve cover gaskets, new Supercharger gasket, third brake light overlay. Hopefully soon to start more mods for performance. Also, 2005 White SE totally stock and will remain that way!
Image
Thank you Bob & Vince for your hard work and kindness!!


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 07, 2011 12:01 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jun 09, 2008 5:02 pm
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Location: Fresno, CA.
Year and Trim: 2000 SSEi & 2005 SE
This has been a pretty rough but very informative adventure so I want to thank everyone who pitched in their comments and help. I was extremely happy to have my better half working next to me as well. Thanks again and as usual this group of folks is better than any warranty I have ever had. LadyMac made a comment while we were working that this club has literally saved us thousands of dollars and that is an amazing fact!! God Bless you all!!

Mac & LadyMac

_________________
2000 SSEi (Silver Eagle) cleared corners (before accident) new LIM gasket, drilled 180 T-stat, new plugs and wires, new valve cover gaskets, new Supercharger gasket, third brake light overlay. Hopefully soon to start more mods for performance. Also, 2005 White SE totally stock and will remain that way!
Image
Thank you Bob & Vince for your hard work and kindness!!


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 07, 2011 1:01 pm 
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2015 Buick Enclave
2013 Buick Regal GS
You're welcome and we are glad to help anytime.

I am glad you got it back together and it is running good.

Have you noticed any change in the temps due to the different pump?


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 07, 2011 1:18 pm 
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Year and Trim: 2000 SSEi & 2005 SE
No, not really...pretty much the same as before. I am hoping to get the PCM reprogrammed sometime to take advantage of the 180 thermo which should bring it down a bit but right now it looks the same. May notice a difference when I take it on a long run we'll see!!

_________________
2000 SSEi (Silver Eagle) cleared corners (before accident) new LIM gasket, drilled 180 T-stat, new plugs and wires, new valve cover gaskets, new Supercharger gasket, third brake light overlay. Hopefully soon to start more mods for performance. Also, 2005 White SE totally stock and will remain that way!
Image
Thank you Bob & Vince for your hard work and kindness!!


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 09, 2011 3:00 pm 
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Joined: Thu Oct 21, 2010 2:42 pm
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Location: North Western Pa
Year and Trim: 2002 Bonneville SE
Finally all the parts came in. Now the fun begins.
All the old coolant is flushed out and now on with the show......lol

_________________
Image
Cadet Blue....Not perfect...But paid for.
K&N Air Filter and Gutted air box. 180 Thermo Cleared Corners More to come.

"Unfortunately there is one thing standing between me and that property: the rightful owners."
- Hedley Lamarr, Blazing Saddles

"One morning I shot an elephant in my pajamas. How he got in my pajamas, I don't know." Capt. Geoffrey T. Spaulding - Groucho Marx - Animal Crackers


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 09, 2011 5:36 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jun 09, 2008 5:02 pm
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Location: Fresno, CA.
Year and Trim: 2000 SSEi & 2005 SE
Good Luck..yours should be a little easier since you won't have the SC Idler pulley to deal with!!

_________________
2000 SSEi (Silver Eagle) cleared corners (before accident) new LIM gasket, drilled 180 T-stat, new plugs and wires, new valve cover gaskets, new Supercharger gasket, third brake light overlay. Hopefully soon to start more mods for performance. Also, 2005 White SE totally stock and will remain that way!
Image
Thank you Bob & Vince for your hard work and kindness!!


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PostPosted: Sat Jun 11, 2011 10:28 pm 
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Location: North Western Pa
Year and Trim: 2002 Bonneville SE
Got it all done. Quiet as a church mouse. No leaks.180 thermowith new coolant too.
Now I know you need to have the PCM reprogramed to get the full effect of the lower temp thermo but so far after driving it around it's not getting as warm as it was.
Use to run basically at 200 all the time but now according to the gauge it's 2 marks lower on the gauge then before the new wp,thermo and coolant.
Old wp's bushings must have been going bad. The shaft was loose.
Now the clutch on the a/c is making noises only when the a/c isn't on. :banghead:

_________________
Image
Cadet Blue....Not perfect...But paid for.
K&N Air Filter and Gutted air box. 180 Thermo Cleared Corners More to come.

"Unfortunately there is one thing standing between me and that property: the rightful owners."
- Hedley Lamarr, Blazing Saddles

"One morning I shot an elephant in my pajamas. How he got in my pajamas, I don't know." Capt. Geoffrey T. Spaulding - Groucho Marx - Animal Crackers


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 12, 2011 9:42 am 
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Did you use the Series 1 water pump?

An often overlooked benefit of the 180 thermostat (even without programming the fans) is keeping the UIM cooler to help prevent EGR burn-through on the L36. It will only delay the inevitable though.

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 12, 2011 8:02 pm 
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Fit fine. Thanks for the help.
Like I said earlier a/c clutch is making noise too.
Ed told me there's a tool to adjust it.
Always something new and exciting. lol

_________________
Image
Cadet Blue....Not perfect...But paid for.
K&N Air Filter and Gutted air box. 180 Thermo Cleared Corners More to come.

"Unfortunately there is one thing standing between me and that property: the rightful owners."
- Hedley Lamarr, Blazing Saddles

"One morning I shot an elephant in my pajamas. How he got in my pajamas, I don't know." Capt. Geoffrey T. Spaulding - Groucho Marx - Animal Crackers


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 13, 2011 10:23 am 
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Joined: Mon Jun 09, 2008 5:02 pm
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Location: Fresno, CA.
Year and Trim: 2000 SSEi & 2005 SE
Excellent, hope yours was easier than mine...hahaha...although it did have a nice side benefit because I got to work with the Mrs. on her car. She loves getting under the hood and tinkerin'!!

_________________
2000 SSEi (Silver Eagle) cleared corners (before accident) new LIM gasket, drilled 180 T-stat, new plugs and wires, new valve cover gaskets, new Supercharger gasket, third brake light overlay. Hopefully soon to start more mods for performance. Also, 2005 White SE totally stock and will remain that way!
Image
Thank you Bob & Vince for your hard work and kindness!!


Last edited by Mac077 on Mon Jun 13, 2011 10:24 am, edited 1 time in total.

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