Okay, I am loving the car so far but a have a couple questions.

First, How does traction control on these cars work? It is snowy here and TC is on but the wheels still spin and it says low traction. I guess I just never drove a front wheel drive car with traction control before. is that normal for the tires to spin?

Second, When I press the heated seats button the light goes on for a second and then clicks off. Do i have a fuse blown or is it something more expensive? If it is a fuse, where is it located? I didnt see it in the fuse box under the hood.


Third, I am not into heavy modding but I would like to do a few inexpensive things to get the most out of the car. Can someone point me to a mod thread? Do you replace the PCM to tune these cars or do you do it with a Scal x2 or similar device? Can someone recommend a good company for tuning?

Thanks!

Yes, the wheels will still spin, even with the traction control active. If you don't take action to limit the spin, the PCM will do 3 things to try and limit the amount of spin. It will start by starting to cut off some of the injectors and retard timing to limit the torque sent to the wheels. Then, if necessary, it will also start to apply the brakes to the spinning wheel.

For the seat heater, you likely have a broken element.
http://www.pontiacbonnevilleclub.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=21967

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*Gone, but not forgotten* - Black 2000 SSEi, HIR Headlights, Angel Eyes fogs, 3rd brake light overlay, hi-flo cat, 180 degree thermostat, HS 1.9 rockers, LSx yellow springs, Intense FWI, PCM, shift kit, push rods, and 3.4 Pulley. ZZP Power Log.

And before doing mods, go through this list and address every item. That will ensure your car is ready for mods.

1987-2005 Bonneville / Buick 3800 Maintenance List

Run Seafoam through gasoline and intake every 5,000 miles. One pint of Seafoam in a half tank of fuel is a good mix. The intake is optional, but recommended.

Grease: Ball Joints, Tie Rods Every 8-10k ( Green Grease recommended)
Air Filter Every 15k (Amsoil EaA, Purolator PureONE)
PCV Valve Every 30k
MAF Sensor Element Cleaning/TB Cleaning Every 50k viewtopic.php?f=48&t=1661
Fuel Filter Every 15-25k (Purolator, AC Delco, WIX) viewtopic.php?f=17&t=15756&p=231837
Spark Plugs Every 30-50k (NGK TR55 or Autolite 605) (Never Bosch)
Ignition Wires Every 30-50k (Napa Belden, AC Delco, Autolite Pro, NGK) (Never Taylor or Bosch)
Oil & Filter Every 5-6k or Every 6 months (Mobil1 or Amsoil)(Mobil1, Purolator PureONE, Amsoil EaO or WIX) (Never Fram) viewtopic.php?f=45&t=214
*Conventional Oil Every 3k/3 months(Pennzoil with a WIX (Napa), Delco or Purolator filter)
Transmission Flush or Pan Drop Every 15-20k (Always make sure filter is changed when flushed) http://www.pontiacbonnevilleclub.com/fo ... 45&t=10193
Cooling System Flush Every 25-50k or 3-5 Years (Peak or Prestone Green Coolant Only) (Never Dexcool)
Oxygen Sensor Every 80-100k (30k for non-heated) (AC Delco or Denso) (Absolutely never Bosch) viewtopic.php?f=48&t=794
Accessory Belt Inspect every 15k, replace every 100k, or as needed
Cabin Air Filter Inspect and Replace every 15k, or as needed in dusty conditions. (Note: 00+ Only)
Evap Core Cleaning Whenever Needed (Note: 99 and older only) viewtopic.php?f=45&t=2432

*Special Considerations*
All 3800s, LG3, LN3, L27, L36, L26, L67 & L32, especially important on vehicles factory installed with orange Havoline Dexcool Antifreeze/Coolant: http://www.dex-cool.net/
Lower Intake Manifold Gasket Replacement, every 80-100k (ignorance of this can allow coolant to enter your engine oil, this happening can cause irreversible lower engine damage, requiring replacement of subject engine)

Series II, Naturally Aspirated, RPO:L36:
Upper Intake Manifold Plenum Replacement, Every 80-100k (ignorance of this can allow coolant to enter your intake manifold, possible damage to occur can be hydrolock, irreversible damage to emissions devices, misfires, etc. Most times, engine replacement is required if ignored long enough.) viewtopic.php?f=53&t=1061

Series I, II, III RPO Code L67 & L32:
Change Supercharger Oil; Every 30-50k. (Intense Racing or GM Dealer) viewtopic.php?f=56&t=1690
Supercharger Belt; Inspect Every 15k, Replace Every 100k or as needed.

1/7/2011 by 00Beast

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Bye Bye:

RIP sandrock

I recommend changing the SC belt every three years or 30K whichever comes first.

The first action when the wheels spin is the brakes are applied. There is far too much torque to prevent spinning but it will limit excessive spinning. If they are still spinning after a second or two then the computer pulls timing and fuel. Spinning tires will cause excessive brake pad wear and heat up the rotors very quickly to the point of warping if you're not careful.

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2000 SSEi - SilverBullet - 78,000 kms, 4" "straight shot" custom headlight ram air inlet, TOGs, 1.9's, Lsd, 2.9-3.4"MPS 10-15 psi, Ported GenV, EGR eliminated, OR pushrods, oil volume kit, trani cooler & shift kit, Titanium retainers, 90 lb springs, 160 Stat, 42# injectors, Fuel pump voltage increase, Wideband O2, 3" to dual 2 1/2" Magnaflows, Snow Meth/water injection, after SC temp gauge, 255/50WR17, timing commander set 15-18*@WOT, 2 speed Fan over-ride, disabled DRL, Solid motor mount, Meziere Electric water pump, adjustable fuel pressure regulator, Drilled & slotted rotors/ceramics, GXP sway bars and STB, Upgraded and rebuilt transmission with ZZP 2500 rpm stall TC, Pioneer Bluetooth stereo with sub and 800 W amps, PB 13.5 quarter, (April 2014 car of the month)

awesome, thanks for all the info. What is the star next to conventional oil for? Is there a reason not to use synthetic?

Also, my coolant looks to be orangish pinkish in the overflow, I am assuming that is Dex-Cool right? r is there another coolant that is orange? Anyways, I have 128k miles on the car and there are no signs of a lower intake leak. Would I be okay just changing the coolant? Any special steps I need to take when changing from dex-cool to regular?

www.dex-cool.net

Our Techinfo section also has a couple articles on related topics. The non-supercharged upper intake articles apply to you with regards to the lower. At 128k you should be planning to replace the lower gaskets VERY soon, especially if they are black nylon carriers. The edges of your gaskets are clearly visible above the cylinder heads. Replacement gaskets should be the new aluminum framed design.

I would personally flush the Dex FIRST (full flush by any number of methods), then pull your top end off, replace the gaskets, re-fill with Prestone 'mixes with any' and the proper ratio of water for your climate, bleed the system, drive about 50 miles, and change your oil hot.

Keep in mind that the L67 can leave the supercharger on the Lower intake manifold and pull both together, the L36 cannot. However, I strongly suggest you pull them apart, replace the two yellow o-rings and gasket between the SC and LIM, and pull the throttle body for a thorough cleaning (with sensors removed) paying close attention to the plunger in the IAC (clean the tip well, lube the spring/shaft with light oil or grease), and the IAC passage in the throttle body while you're doing the other work. Do NOT clean the black carbon off the supercharger rotors. It actually builds up and improves the efficiency of the blower.

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Click here for mod list for both cars
93 SSEi, 95 SLE (supercharged) 97 Buick LeSabre Limited
PontiacDad at WCBF '04: Cruise control? That's like surrendering!
Comprehensive guide to troubleshooting, rebuilding, and modifying Eaton Superchargers

No reason not to use synthetic. Longer change intervals are always a good thing.

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2012 Chevrolet Cruze Eco - Current car

1999 Buick LeSabre Custom - Former car

Learn from the mistakes of others, that way when you mess up you can do so in new and interesting ways.

Okay

I just checked my spark plugs and it looks like I already have some TR55GP's in there. The gap looks pretty big though. I haven't noticed any cylinders missing so I am assuming they are still good.

Any idea what the pink'ish coolant might be? Or does it just appear that way in my resivoir? Dex is orange right?

IIRC, old formula Dex is red. My 1999 had red Dex-Cool in it when I first got it 3 years ago. It was flushed out quickly for new Prestone all-makes. Dex-Cool isn't a horrible formula, as long as it's changed every few years.

I'd flush it, just to make a baseline of what you've maintained on the car.

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2012 Chevrolet Cruze Eco - Current car

1999 Buick LeSabre Custom - Former car

Learn from the mistakes of others, that way when you mess up you can do so in new and interesting ways.

Dex starts to become acidic when exposed to air. Any trapped air in the system will do this. Most cars have some quantity of trapped air.

Lose the DEX or any risk of the fact that it MIGHT be DEX and use Prestone 'mixes with any'. And flush, not just replace.

_________________

Click here for mod list for both cars
93 SSEi, 95 SLE (supercharged) 97 Buick LeSabre Limited
PontiacDad at WCBF '04: Cruise control? That's like surrendering!
Comprehensive guide to troubleshooting, rebuilding, and modifying Eaton Superchargers

I believe in dex. The book recommends changing it every three years, so thats what I do and I have not had a problem. The Caddy is seven years old and still runs like new. I keep all records. if I do have a problem, I will go to the dealer with it and make them make it right.

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Steve
Was - 1998 SSEi - 128,000 mi. ---- SOLD----
Was - 2003 Cadillac DeVille DTS - 91,000 mi. ----SOLD----
Is - 2008 Cadillac STS AWD Luxury, Black/Black.
2008 Ford Fusion SEL, - Midnight blue - Black leather int.
2005 Buick Lacrosse CXL, Silver - Black leather Int.

I'll never trust Dex.... My Catera had it from the factory and the cooling system was goobered up TERRIBLY with the crap when I did the oil cooler, and the car only had 75000 miles on it when I changed it, and the coolant was changed every 3 years as recommended. I completely flushed it out and replaced it with the Prestone mixes with any coolant.

Oh, and change the supercharger oil, but be warned that it smells BAD.

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2012 Grand Cherokee Overland Summit - Hemi
1996 Thunderbird LX - 3.8

I've seen enough DEX related failures in my own driveway, not to mention on this Forum since 2002. Enough is enough, which is why I investigated it and published www.dex-cool.net

I'm not the only one out there in the big wide net world that has done so either.




Sound advice on the supercharger oil. It's likely never been changed. Use only GM Supercharger oil or supercharger oil from one of our vendors (ZZP, INTENSE, Rolling Performance).

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Click here for mod list for both cars
93 SSEi, 95 SLE (supercharged) 97 Buick LeSabre Limited
PontiacDad at WCBF '04: Cruise control? That's like surrendering!
Comprehensive guide to troubleshooting, rebuilding, and modifying Eaton Superchargers

Um, you mentioned you have TR55GP's, which are a platinum plug. You also stated that the gap was big. Platinums are a big no-no in a supercharged engine, they basically turn into a glow plug under boost, and cause all kinds of bad things. You need to get those plugs out like yesterday and get some copper or iridium plugs in. Those platinums could cause severe engine damage if left in, and may have already.

_________________
Bye Bye:

RIP sandrock

Good to know, I will get some regular TR55's in there ASAP. Just curious, I hear alot about autlite 104's whats the deal with those? Also, whats the best way to get at the plugs in the back, do I need to remove anything or will I be able to get at them without taking anthing apart? I would wait till I do the lower intake but that might be a few weeks.

Take off the engine cover, throw an old blanket on the motor, and crawl up there. Have patience and work by feel. In time with practice, you'll be able to do all 6 in 10 minutes or less.

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Click here for mod list for both cars
93 SSEi, 95 SLE (supercharged) 97 Buick LeSabre Limited
PontiacDad at WCBF '04: Cruise control? That's like surrendering!
Comprehensive guide to troubleshooting, rebuilding, and modifying Eaton Superchargers

Awesome, Hey, nobody said in that throttle body cleaning thread that there is a coolant jacket running into the throttle body. That scared the crap out of me! I thought it was supercharger oil at first. lol. The throttle body had a ton of carbon on it. Is that the EGR inlet right at the bottom close to where the throttle body attaches?

I left my battery unhooked while cleaning the throttle body, I am assuming that is how you get the car to relearn idle right?


Also, could someone point me to a good coolant flush tutorial? The dexcool looked pretty chunky when I took off the throttle body. :-S

From Techinfo on the coolant flush. There is a lot of good information in Techinfo that you may want to read over. Links at the top of the page, as well as the top of the mechanical section.
http://www.pontiacbonnevilleclub.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=45&t=15064

_________________
*Gone, but not forgotten* - Black 2000 SSEi, HIR Headlights, Angel Eyes fogs, 3rd brake light overlay, hi-flo cat, 180 degree thermostat, HS 1.9 rockers, LSx yellow springs, Intense FWI, PCM, shift kit, push rods, and 3.4 Pulley. ZZP Power Log.

its a knuckle buster, so keep your cool. small strong hands help

_________________

Steve
Was - 1998 SSEi - 128,000 mi. ---- SOLD----
Was - 2003 Cadillac DeVille DTS - 91,000 mi. ----SOLD----
Is - 2008 Cadillac STS AWD Luxury, Black/Black.
2008 Ford Fusion SEL, - Midnight blue - Black leather int.
2005 Buick Lacrosse CXL, Silver - Black leather Int.

I just called to our dealership for the heck of it to see if I could get a service history. Apparently the intake manifold gaskets were replaced at 85,000 miles along with the thermostat, window regulators, tie rod ends and a few other things. Thats a plus, I thought for sure that the dexcool that was in there has been in there for the whole time. What a relief.

The car has 128,000 miles on it now. I should be good with just flushing and replacing the coolant then right?