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PostPosted: Sat Jul 10, 2010 11:47 pm 
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Year and Trim: 2001 bonneville
I have a 2001 bonneville that won't start. Some time ago it had intermittent problems where it wouldn't start. I could turn the key and all electrical stuff would come on but would not crank. I could turn key back and fourth (on and off) and it would start after several times. This gradually got worse and now I can't get it to start. All electrical stuff still comes on as it should it just won't start. I think it may be the ignition switch but don't know. If it is the ignition switch how do I get it out of the dash.
Thanks


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 11, 2010 12:50 am 
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What is your DIC saying the battery voltage is? Mine was acting the same way when the original battery was going bad. Do you still have the original battery?


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 11, 2010 12:56 am 
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Well not sure if its the original or not. When it does turn over it acts fine. starts right up, doesn't act like battery low at all. Amp meter shows 14 volts when running. any suggestions.


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 11, 2010 12:57 am 
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What does it show with the key on and engine off?


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 11, 2010 1:17 am 
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not sure I'll check in am.
thanks


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 11, 2010 10:42 am 
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Check the battery voltage first to be sure that isn't the problem. If that appears OK, there is a TSB affecting 2000 and 2001 Bonnevilles for the ignition switch causing an intermittent no start, no crank condition. There is a revised switch.

Most of the dash front just clips in, so you may be able to pull it out far enough to get at what you need without removing the whole thing.

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 11, 2010 7:37 pm 
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Ok volts with engine off is 12. I remember when it was running volts were 14.something. Took dash apart to replace ignition switch. I bought a chilton manual for correct year but it still shows swith in stearing colum not dash. I can't figure out how to get swith off tumbler and out of dash. does anyone have a manual with correct pics and procedure they can scan me or walk me through it.
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 11, 2010 7:54 pm 
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Are you reading that voltage on the gauge in the dash or with a meter?


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 11, 2010 8:01 pm 
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dash gauges.
thanks


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 11, 2010 8:09 pm 
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Those are not very accurate. I think you should take the battery to be tested before you start tearing into the dash. It should have a little over 12 volts on it when read with a DMM. Is it an AC Delco battery?


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 11, 2010 8:22 pm 
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No not an ac/delta. It is another brand. not sure what kind. I really don't think its the battery. The car has had same symptoms for year or so and when you turn key nothing, and if you kept turning key back and fourth it would start after like tenth time. no drag just start right up. Now it acts same way, like its just not making connection.
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 11, 2010 8:30 pm 
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I have never had my ignition apart and I have the FSM for the 2000. I will take a look and post back. I know others have been there and they might chime in also.


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 11, 2010 8:31 pm 
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Thanks


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 11, 2010 8:42 pm 
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From the 2000 FSM:

Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder Replacement

1. Disconnect Battery
2. Disable SIR
3. Apply parking brake
4. Remove radio
5. Insert key and turn to run position
6. Look through radio opening in the IP and locate the release button on the side of the switch
7. Depress and hold the ignition lock cylinder retaining tab (located on the right lower side of the ignition switch), using a flat-bladed screwdriver or other suitable tool
8. Pull on the ignition cylinder in order to remove the cylinder
9. Remove the reader/exciter module from the ignition lock cylinder

Replacement is in reverse order.


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 14, 2010 10:30 am 
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Well replace battery. No change, yes it was one of those high priced gel batteries. Next I changed ignition switch. No change. Now what???


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 14, 2010 1:22 pm 
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what about your grounds? on the front passenger side behind the plastic trim on the door sill that runs up to the dash there is a small black box that is a ground for several systems including the security system if that ground is loose or not getting a good connection it will not crank.

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 14, 2010 11:20 pm 
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Have you tried a different key?

You could try the security relearn to see if that makes a difference. It takes 30 minutes, so it may be helpful to put the battery on a charger.

Turn ON the ignition, with the engine OFF, using a master Pass-Key III key (black).
Observe the security telltale, after approximately 10 minutes the telltale will turn off.
Turn OFF the ignition, and wait 5 seconds .
Repeat step 1 through step 3 two more times, for a total of 3 cycles or 30 minutes . IMPORTANT: The vehicle learns the key information and/or passwords on the ignition switch transition from OFF to CRANK. You must turn the ignition OFF before attempting to start the vehicle.
Start the vehicle (the vehicle has now learned the key and password information).

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PostPosted: Thu Jul 15, 2010 12:15 am 
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So it doesnt crank all the time or yes?

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PostPosted: Sat Jul 17, 2010 7:14 pm 
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The intermittent no starting is/was typical of a bad ignition switch...


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 19, 2010 3:45 pm 
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That was what was happening to my 2001, and it was the ignition switch. It was a pain to change the first time, but now that I know how easily the dash and radio come out, I could probably do it in 20 minutes. Follow the instructions and someone gave above and it is no sweat. Cost $65 from local parts store.


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