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PostPosted: Mon Jan 11, 2010 2:55 pm 
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Posts like an L67
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Joined: Wed May 21, 2008 10:21 pm
Posts: 1351
Location: Sewell NJ
Year and Trim: 01 Se
I was wondering what the best way to determine if you need new shocks/struts.

Reason being is, to me I feel like my car needs new because at times of hitting some bumps you can really feel it, to me it feels like your in a older jeep when going over bumps, not really smooth over them you hear and feel it all when hitting them, and there not like huge pot holes either.

I've heard push down on your back end and if it bounces you need new. Is this the best way? If so I pushed down on my back end of the car and it did bounce I would say 3-4 times. How can I determine the front then?

Shocks/struts have never been replaced on this car, they are original.

If I need new, anyone know what part number I need off of Rockauto to get new?

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Last edited by EWC88 on Mon Jan 18, 2010 2:05 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 11, 2010 6:56 pm 
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Joined: Sat May 24, 2008 5:18 pm
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Location: Sycamore, IL
Year and Trim: 05 Chevy 'Hoe
1997 'maro (3.8L M5)
89 SkiDoo
How many miles on the car? Id say if you have over 100,000 just replace em if you plan on keeping the car. Im getting ready to do mine(I have 160000 and shoulda did them a long time ago.... :roll: ) . Im also replacing strut mount plates and shock mounts.

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 11, 2010 7:00 pm 
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Joined: Thu May 22, 2008 6:50 am
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Location: Langhorne, Pa
Year and Trim: 2007 Impala SS
1997 LeSabre Limited
When I had the 01 SE i had the rears changed at 115k because the rear strut mount plates were making all kinds of noise over bumps...the front ones I never touched. By the time I traded it in, the car needed front struts..140k on the clock.

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 11, 2010 7:09 pm 
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Joined: Mon May 19, 2008 9:51 pm
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Location: Toronto, Canada
Year and Trim: 09 G8 GT
Same procedure for testing the fronts. If they bounce too much, they're no good.

Interesting tidbit on the rears though, I'm pretty sure the 2000+ SE do have ELC rear shocks? Mine were dead and were recently replaced. They didn't really bounce and ride quality was fine, but they were COMPLETELY dead when I tested them on removal. Push them in and they would stay in. The air/leveling portion seemed to be the only thing doing any work. If you're over 100,000 miles, if they aren't dead, they're likely getting weak.

The handling you regain will be worth it. I didn't even realize it was that bad - and I've competed with the car at autocross events that rely on being able to turn.

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 11, 2010 8:18 pm 
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I agree. My shocks didn't seem that bad, but when I replaced them it became a new car. It was a night and day difference.

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 11, 2010 8:36 pm 
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I know a couple of guys running the KYB GR2 up front and like the extra firmness.

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 11, 2010 10:24 pm 
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If it pogo-sticks over large bumps they're dead. I did mine and it's a world of difference in how the car handles. Even on my 99 with FE1.

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 12, 2010 2:32 pm 
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Joined: Wed May 21, 2008 10:21 pm
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Location: Sewell NJ
Year and Trim: 01 Se
Yea car is at 149k miles right now so I'll replace them then.

Is this what I need for the car (front and back):

Rear: Part # MA822 Link: http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=61825

Front: Part # 71685 Link: http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=223172

Anything else should I replace with them?

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 12, 2010 6:19 pm 
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Joined: Mon May 26, 2008 10:15 am
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Location: Morris, Illinois
Year and Trim: 2000 SSEi, 3.4", FWI, Saner HD sway bars,137K
Just my recommendation but for sure, replace the strut mounts at the same time when you're doing the fronts. While you're at it, you may also want to replace the sway bar bushings and bolts. Don't forget to get an alignment when you're all done.


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 12, 2010 6:33 pm 
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Location: Sycamore, IL
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89 SkiDoo
Might as well do the shock mounts for the rear as well as strut plates.

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 13, 2010 2:03 pm 
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Location: Sewell NJ
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Were those the right shocks/strust I needed that I posted?

I'll order the mounts as well since I will be replacing the shocks and struts might as well do full job on it.

Is the sway bar bushing and bolts recommended to do as well?

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PostPosted: Fri Jan 15, 2010 12:48 pm 
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Location: Sewell NJ
Year and Trim: 01 Se
Also does it matter what mounts and plates to get? Sorry for all questions just want to make sure I order everything right.

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PostPosted: Sat Jan 16, 2010 4:25 am 
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Location: Sycamore, IL
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89 SkiDoo
Those look like good units, from what ive seen posted in other threads. And the mounts/plates probably arent too much dif between brands. maybe make sure theyre USA made?

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Less off-topic than Lane's Heated Steering wheel, but yeah, back to the topic.


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 18, 2010 2:07 pm 
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Joined: Wed May 21, 2008 10:21 pm
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Location: Sewell NJ
Year and Trim: 01 Se
Ok I will look to see where there all made.

What shocks/struts/mounts/plates are you replacing in your bonneville with 01bonneSC?

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 18, 2010 6:40 pm 
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Location: Sycamore, IL
Year and Trim: 05 Chevy 'Hoe
1997 'maro (3.8L M5)
89 SkiDoo
Monroe shocks/struts, moog plates/mounts.

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Less off-topic than Lane's Heated Steering wheel, but yeah, back to the topic.


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 19, 2010 7:45 pm 
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Location: Grand Rapids, Michigan
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While you're replacing things, plan on replacing the rubber upper spring insulator for the struts. They often wear through. The mounts generally do not include this.

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 20, 2010 2:48 pm 
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Location: Sewell NJ
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Archon do you know the part number for that so I can find it on Rockauto?

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