Well, spent about 4 hours working on diagnosing the drivers heated seat problem in my car.

I was having some problems with my seat all the way down popping fuses, and today when I pulled the seat, I found this:



The wires had been routed incorrectly under the seat, and had been rubbing on one of the seat motors. It had rubbed through the electrical tape, and the insulation on some of the wires. So we cleaned the wires, and individually taped the wires, and then retaped the harness together.

My issue with the heated seat is still present. We pulled the seat bottom, and found a broken wire. We then tested the entire seat skins for continuity, and it showed a complete circuit. But when plugged into the car, it still turns on, and then turns right back off.

We then switched the modules from the drivers and passenger, and the symtoms were the same, and the passenger seat still worked fine.

All the wires in the wire harness that rubbed are showing continuity, but is there a wire in there that could be causing this not to work.

My dad and I are at a complete loss of what the problem could be.

Any help would be extremely appreciated.

_________________
-Mike

Current Mods: Silverstar Ultra Low's and High's, Direct In Aux Input Jack, Gorilla Chrome Lug Nuts
Audio: 12" Alpine Type-R Sub || Eclipse XA1200 500w amp

I had a broken wire in the seat back as well as the bottom. Did you check for continuity there as well?

Edit sorry I now see that you said you tested the entire seat skin.

_________________
-Tom

2003 Silverado Ext. Cab - Charcoal - 128,000 miles - Stock...for now.
2000 SSEi - Gone, but not forgotten.

Yeah we connected the full seat and tested continuity. We also are seeing the same resistance through both seats.

_________________
-Mike

Current Mods: Silverstar Ultra Low's and High's, Direct In Aux Input Jack, Gorilla Chrome Lug Nuts
Audio: 12" Alpine Type-R Sub || Eclipse XA1200 500w amp

There could be a broken wire that is still somewhat attached... it will conduct continuity, but when a load is applied, it can't handle it.

Thats my best guess, sorry.

_________________
Andrew - owner/operator of Bonnevilles Unlimited

2004 Bonneville GXP | 60k | White Gold Tricoat | custom built supercharged 3800 hot rod | garage queen
1997 Corvette | 55k | Silver Metallic | Z06 wheels | Date-night Hauler/Parts runner
2014 Town & Country Limited | Cashmere Pearl | 95k | Family Hauler
2002 Ram 1500 Quad Cab Sport | Black| 260k | Official Bonneville Hauler

Andrew, I appreciate the help never the less. My dad and I are at a complete loss of what the problem could be.

Is there a certain wire that sends the signal for the heated seats to not work? I think I saw a heated seat inhibit wire on the diagrams, but am unsure of what it actually does?

_________________
-Mike

Current Mods: Silverstar Ultra Low's and High's, Direct In Aux Input Jack, Gorilla Chrome Lug Nuts
Audio: 12" Alpine Type-R Sub || Eclipse XA1200 500w amp

Do you have the GM ESI techline DVD? I'd post the testing steps, but if you already have them its pointless.

Power and Grounds
Battery positive voltage is supplied at all times to the driver and passenger heated seat modules from the rear fuse block; HTDST LF Fuse for the driver heated seat module, or, HTDST RF Fuse for the passenger heated seat module. This battery voltage is used by the module to apply voltage to the seat heating elements. Battery positive voltage is also supplied to both heated seat modules from the rear fuse block IGN 3 Fuse with the ignition in the ON position. This voltage is used to power up the module. Both modules are grounded through the ground circuit to G301. The heated seat switches are grounded through the switch ground circuit and G201.

Temperature Regulation
The heated seat system is designed in order to warm the seat cushion and seat back to approximately 107.6°F (42°C) when in the high position, and 98.6°F (37°C) when in the low position. The heated seat module monitors the seat temperature through the temperature sensor signal circuit and the temperature sensor (thermistor) that is located in the seat cushion. The temperature sensor is a variable resistor, it's resistance changes as the temperature of the seat changes. When the temperature sensor resistance indicates to the heated seat module that the seat has reached the desired temperature, the module opens the ground path of the seat heating elements through the heated seat element control circuit. The module will then cycle the element control circuit open and closed in order to maintain the desired temperature.

Heated Seats
The driver and passenger heated seat are controlled by separate heated seat switches. When the heated seat is off and the heated seat switch is toggled toward HI/LO, the heated seat high/low signal circuit of the heated seat module is momentarily grounded through the HI/LO switch contacts. In response to this signal, the heated seat module applies battery positive voltage to the seat cushion/back heater elements, setting the temperature level to high heat. The module also applies battery positive voltage through the heated seat high temperature indicator control circuit to illuminate the high temperature indicator of the heated seat switch. When the heated seat switch is toggled toward HI/LO a second time, the heated seat high/low signal circuit of the heated seat module is again momentarily grounded through the HI/LO switch contacts. In response to this second signal, the heated seat module sets the temperature level to low heat and applies battery positive voltage through the heated seat low temperature indicator control circuit to illuminate the low temperature indicator of the heated seat switch. When the heated seat switch is toggled toward OFF, the heated seat off signal circuit of the heated seat module is momentarily grounded through the OFF switch contacts. In response to this signal, the heated seat module removes the battery voltage from the seat heating elements and the appropriate temperature indicator. The heated seat module will also turn off the heated seat whenever the ignition switch is turned to the OFF position.

Load Management
There are 3 levels of load management controlled by the dash integration module (DIM). The DIM sends the status of load management to the rear integration module (RIM) via a class 2 message. In response to this message, the RIM signals the heated seat modules through the heated seat module inhibit signal circuit indicating the current load management level. During Load Shed 0, the RIM does not inhibit the operation of the heated seats. During load shed level 1, the heated seats are cycled 10 seconds on and 10 seconds off, with temperature regulation still being enforced. During load shed level 2, the RIM will pull the inhibit signal circuit of the heated seat module to ground. In response to this signal, the heated seat modules will turn off the heated seats and temperature indicators that are illuminated. The instrument cluster will display a BATTERY SAVER ACTIVE message. The ON/OFF status of the heated seats is reported to the RIM through the heated seat control module status signal circuit by both heated seat modules.

_________________
Andrew - owner/operator of Bonnevilles Unlimited

2004 Bonneville GXP | 60k | White Gold Tricoat | custom built supercharged 3800 hot rod | garage queen
1997 Corvette | 55k | Silver Metallic | Z06 wheels | Date-night Hauler/Parts runner
2014 Town & Country Limited | Cashmere Pearl | 95k | Family Hauler
2002 Ram 1500 Quad Cab Sport | Black| 260k | Official Bonneville Hauler

I do have the techline DVD, and took a look at the procedure today. I am not really feeling like tearing back into the car again anytime soon, and I go back to school next week so I will be without a garage. Probably going to wait until spring break to get back to it.

Not really sure where to start except follow the procedure. I am worried that It is going to come down to putting new elements in. I wish someone was parting out a car with my color seats and heated. I would buy the leather skin right away.

I did see the low voltage warning yesterday because we had to keep turning the car on for the seats to go on. We finally disconnected the headlight bulbs and just hooked up the battery charger.

At this point I think it has to be something with a wire in the seat harness, or the element is broken somewhere, and like you said Andrew, is passing continuity but not during a load.

_________________
-Mike

Current Mods: Silverstar Ultra Low's and High's, Direct In Aux Input Jack, Gorilla Chrome Lug Nuts
Audio: 12" Alpine Type-R Sub || Eclipse XA1200 500w amp

My passenger seat heater has been out for a few years now. I bought new elements but they have been on the shelf since then.

I'm not even interested in repairing it now.

Might be a good WCBF mod.

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2000 SSEi - SilverBullet - 78,000 kms, 4" "straight shot" custom headlight ram air inlet, TOGs, 1.9's, Lsd, 2.9-3.4"MPS 10-15 psi, Ported GenV, EGR eliminated, OR pushrods, oil volume kit, trani cooler & shift kit, Titanium retainers, 90 lb springs, 160 Stat, 42# injectors, Fuel pump voltage increase, Wideband O2, 3" to dual 2 1/2" Magnaflows, Snow Meth/water injection, after SC temp gauge, 255/50WR17, timing commander set 15-18*@WOT, 2 speed Fan over-ride, disabled DRL, Solid motor mount, Meziere Electric water pump, adjustable fuel pressure regulator, Drilled & slotted rotors/ceramics, GXP sway bars and STB, Upgraded and rebuilt transmission with ZZP 2500 rpm stall TC, Pioneer Bluetooth stereo with sub and 800 W amps, PB 13.5 quarter, (April 2014 car of the month)

Well I think I thought of a solution today. As we have heard before, the replacement elements do not work as well because they have to warm through the old elements. The old elements are built into the foam liner behind the leather, and when we were working on the seat, we noticed that they are not glued to eachother (the foam and leather).

What if I cut out the foam (including the elements) in the seat bottom, and then stuck the new elements directly to the leather, therefore removing the old elements that were in the way of the heat from the replacement parts. This would probably work just as well as the stock ones, correct?


I'm thinking that this might be the best option right now, and I'll probably just leave the stock element in the seat back, since that one isn't causing any problems.

Paul or Andrew, do either of you forsee a problem with doing that?

_________________
-Mike

Current Mods: Silverstar Ultra Low's and High's, Direct In Aux Input Jack, Gorilla Chrome Lug Nuts
Audio: 12" Alpine Type-R Sub || Eclipse XA1200 500w amp

Yup, sounds good to me.

_________________
Andrew - owner/operator of Bonnevilles Unlimited

2004 Bonneville GXP | 60k | White Gold Tricoat | custom built supercharged 3800 hot rod | garage queen
1997 Corvette | 55k | Silver Metallic | Z06 wheels | Date-night Hauler/Parts runner
2014 Town & Country Limited | Cashmere Pearl | 95k | Family Hauler
2002 Ram 1500 Quad Cab Sport | Black| 260k | Official Bonneville Hauler

These are two notices that is part of the TSB for replacement heater elements.

_________________
*Gone, but not forgotten* - Black 2000 SSEi, HIR Headlights, Angel Eyes fogs, 3rd brake light overlay, hi-flo cat, 180 degree thermostat, HS 1.9 rockers, LSx yellow springs, Intense FWI, PCM, shift kit, push rods, and 3.4 Pulley. ZZP Power Log.

I have the TSB. There is no reason you couldnt remove the factory elements. they are not glued or attached to the leather in any way, and are only inhibiting the head transfer.

The overall resistance of the new elements might be different, but if it works without changing out the seat back, no reason to change it.

_________________
-Mike

Current Mods: Silverstar Ultra Low's and High's, Direct In Aux Input Jack, Gorilla Chrome Lug Nuts
Audio: 12" Alpine Type-R Sub || Eclipse XA1200 500w amp

Try swapping the pass and drivers seat just enough to plug the drivers seat into the pass. I had to do that to narrow down a problem I had with mine.

The replaceable elements I bought thru the dealer MUST replace ALL the elements including the back in order to work properly.
The wiring is different so the seat bottom won't work without also replacing the seat back.

_________________

2000 SSEi - SilverBullet - 78,000 kms, 4" "straight shot" custom headlight ram air inlet, TOGs, 1.9's, Lsd, 2.9-3.4"MPS 10-15 psi, Ported GenV, EGR eliminated, OR pushrods, oil volume kit, trani cooler & shift kit, Titanium retainers, 90 lb springs, 160 Stat, 42# injectors, Fuel pump voltage increase, Wideband O2, 3" to dual 2 1/2" Magnaflows, Snow Meth/water injection, after SC temp gauge, 255/50WR17, timing commander set 15-18*@WOT, 2 speed Fan over-ride, disabled DRL, Solid motor mount, Meziere Electric water pump, adjustable fuel pressure regulator, Drilled & slotted rotors/ceramics, GXP sway bars and STB, Upgraded and rebuilt transmission with ZZP 2500 rpm stall TC, Pioneer Bluetooth stereo with sub and 800 W amps, PB 13.5 quarter, (April 2014 car of the month)

I had the same problem with my heated seat. I would turn it on and it would turn right off again. I took it to the dealer and they said the heating elements were out and they had to replace the heater in the seat. Im sure glad that was covered under the warranty.

I recently bought a replacement heating element from Dorman Products for a 03 Monte Carlo. The element has double faced tape applied to both side that you stick to the foam. The wiring connector is the same, so you don't have to change both elements. I carefully removed the old heat element from the seat covering. Not a fun job.