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PostPosted: Sun May 03, 2009 5:12 pm 
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I know I have to remove the center console to compleatly remove the front carpeting. Do you have any instructions on how to remove the center console?


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PostPosted: Sun May 03, 2009 6:26 pm 
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harofreak may jump in later because he's done this several times. I can only give you a vague idea as I've never removed the entire console before. There should only be 10 fasteners from what I recall. I'm at work right now so if no one has spoken up, I'll post directions from the FSM as soon as I can.

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Last edited by ddalder on Sun May 03, 2009 6:28 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Sun May 03, 2009 7:24 pm 
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The center console almost out now. All i got to do is figure out how to remove the shifter cable without breaking it.


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PostPosted: Sun May 03, 2009 11:54 pm 
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Thanks for the info ddalder. Ive been at work all day so i'll check what u suggested tomorrow morning. Hopefully it'll b something simple as you suggested but we'll see.


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PostPosted: Mon May 04, 2009 12:13 am 
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I removed all the carpeting and put the center console and driver seat back in for now. Unfortunately i have another problem, after taking my car for a drive I can't get the key out of the ignition. The key is stuck between the off and accessorie position and the park light stays on. Any help would be greatly appreciated.


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PostPosted: Mon May 04, 2009 12:52 am 
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This will likely be related to the shifter linkage. If the car doesn't think it's in PARK, it won't let you turn the key all the way off. Double check how you have the cable seated and reconnected. This will probably take care of it for you :wink:

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RainSense Wipers, Backup Camera, '00 Style Door Panel Courtesy Lights, Heated Washer Solvent, 2X Remote Trunk Release,
Turn Signal Mirrors, Center Console Courtesy Lamp, Rear Outboard Heated Seats, PVD Chrome 18" Factory Rims, Upgraded
Carbon Fibre Appearance Interior Trim, Highly Modified Main Body Harness, Instrument Panel, Door, Door Panel & Headliner
Wiring Harnesses, Custom Fuse Box & Tire and Loading Information Decals, Additional Acoustic Insulation


Last edited by ddalder on Mon May 04, 2009 1:05 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Tue May 26, 2009 9:05 pm 
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Thanks ddalder for all the help. I fixed the power windows and doorlocks this weekend but I still have a leak coming from the side of the sunroof track. Do you think my sunroof track is busted?


Last edited by y2kssei on Tue May 26, 2009 9:05 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Tue May 26, 2009 10:00 pm 
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Glad you got the doors and windows fixed. Can you just confirm what it was you found?

Where exactly are you seeing the water? Is it coming through the headliner or are you not sure yet?

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Turn Signal Mirrors, Center Console Courtesy Lamp, Rear Outboard Heated Seats, PVD Chrome 18" Factory Rims, Upgraded
Carbon Fibre Appearance Interior Trim, Highly Modified Main Body Harness, Instrument Panel, Door, Door Panel & Headliner
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PostPosted: Thu May 28, 2009 9:57 pm 
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The problem with the power windows and doorlocks was found at S302. The plastic splice connector was badly corroded so I removed it and soldered the wires together.

The leak is coming from the headliner right at the top of the B-piller.


Last edited by y2kssei on Thu May 28, 2009 9:58 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Sat May 30, 2009 3:34 pm 
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Most often it seems to be a drain tube that has come off at one (or more) of the corners of the sun roof assembly. You'll likely have to drop the headliner to visually examine this for a correct diagnosis.

It is also possible to have leaks elsewhere so if a tube has come off up there, you'll likely want to check all the connections. Have you had a look through haro's sun roof leak thread yet? This should help you a lot.

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Bose Luxury Sound System w/Touch Screen Navigation, Addition of Factory XM, 2005 MY Antenna, OnStar Upgrade (3G),
RainSense Wipers, Backup Camera, '00 Style Door Panel Courtesy Lights, Heated Washer Solvent, 2X Remote Trunk Release,
Turn Signal Mirrors, Center Console Courtesy Lamp, Rear Outboard Heated Seats, PVD Chrome 18" Factory Rims, Upgraded
Carbon Fibre Appearance Interior Trim, Highly Modified Main Body Harness, Instrument Panel, Door, Door Panel & Headliner
Wiring Harnesses, Custom Fuse Box & Tire and Loading Information Decals, Additional Acoustic Insulation


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 02, 2009 9:22 pm 
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I know this is a bit old but i've been gone and just got my car fixed. After swapping out DDM's on the driver side door with no luck, I tried the actual window/power lock module itself. Turns out thats what it was all along. Windows, memory seats, power locks all work fine now. Now this summer, I begin the build up of the car to add some performance. Nothing too drastic but I think I will end up going with some type of meth system in the end for lower EGT's along with the usual goddies that people put in. I'll be picking your brains throughout, this should be fun. Thanks for the advice about the door module guys.


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 02, 2009 9:31 pm 
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A meth system is un-necessary with minor mods, and on our cars only works OK. If you want lower temps, get an Intercooler. But that's a subject to discuss in Performance & Brainstorming.

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PostPosted: Tue Jun 02, 2009 9:50 pm 
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MIDEVOL wrote:
After swapping out DDM's on the driver side door with no luck, I tried the actual window/power lock module itself. Turns out thats what it was all along.

It's great you got everything working! I'm just not sure I understand what you mean by the "window/power lock module" (versus the DDM). In the 2000+ cars, the door modules are self-contained controllers for all these functions. Can you provide more details?

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Bose Luxury Sound System w/Touch Screen Navigation, Addition of Factory XM, 2005 MY Antenna, OnStar Upgrade (3G),
RainSense Wipers, Backup Camera, '00 Style Door Panel Courtesy Lights, Heated Washer Solvent, 2X Remote Trunk Release,
Turn Signal Mirrors, Center Console Courtesy Lamp, Rear Outboard Heated Seats, PVD Chrome 18" Factory Rims, Upgraded
Carbon Fibre Appearance Interior Trim, Highly Modified Main Body Harness, Instrument Panel, Door, Door Panel & Headliner
Wiring Harnesses, Custom Fuse Box & Tire and Loading Information Decals, Additional Acoustic Insulation


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 04, 2009 7:13 pm 
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Hey, I guess I shouldve picked better words. What I changed that finally did the trick was the group of switches that raise the windows up and down. Im not sure what its called but it houses all four window switches, as well as the power window lock out switch. As for the meth kit that ill start a new thread in power and brainstorming.


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 04, 2009 7:16 pm 
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Okay, that makes sense now. I suspected that's what you probably meant :wink: Anyway, good news that it's working again!

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Bose Luxury Sound System w/Touch Screen Navigation, Addition of Factory XM, 2005 MY Antenna, OnStar Upgrade (3G),
RainSense Wipers, Backup Camera, '00 Style Door Panel Courtesy Lights, Heated Washer Solvent, 2X Remote Trunk Release,
Turn Signal Mirrors, Center Console Courtesy Lamp, Rear Outboard Heated Seats, PVD Chrome 18" Factory Rims, Upgraded
Carbon Fibre Appearance Interior Trim, Highly Modified Main Body Harness, Instrument Panel, Door, Door Panel & Headliner
Wiring Harnesses, Custom Fuse Box & Tire and Loading Information Decals, Additional Acoustic Insulation


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 07, 2009 7:50 am 
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Hey guys thanks for this info.
My daughters 2001 lost the passenger windows and locks.
It took me awhile but I found that nasty S302 connector. I thought they would had put that connector earlier in the wiring channel.

Now I need to stop the door leak, but that info is here. Dang I love this internet thing.

Once again thanks to everyone for their input.

Have a great day
Dale


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 22, 2009 1:28 am 
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where is the s302 connector located, ihave the same issue w/locks and windows, only the drivers door works
thanks,
dave


Last edited by daver on Thu Oct 22, 2009 1:39 am, edited 2 times in total.

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 22, 2009 3:33 pm 
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Dave, you will get better response if you start your own thread on your issue. Feel free to link this thread for reference. Then all the folks in the know will be addressing your issue.

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 22, 2009 3:53 pm 
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daver wrote:
where is the s302 connector located, ihave the same issue w/locks and windows, only the drivers door works
thanks,
dave



Quote:
There is a point where all four simple bus interface wires splice together. This is a point called S302. This splice point is located:

In the main body harness, left side of the vehicle, 14.5cm (5.7”) from the left power seat breakout.

The “breakout” is where the wiring splits off the main harness to go to the main connector where the seat plugs in. The manual doesn’t say whether the splice is fore or aft of the breakout.


Basically, the ground buss is directly below the drivers seat on a framerail.

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Last edited by harofreak00 on Thu Oct 22, 2009 4:00 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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