After the LIM, water pump, and air mix actuator, I am almost feeling confident
at turning wrenches.
I guess it's time to tackle the drive axles. I have some bad front-end vibration
and I just started to hear the clicking when I turn the wheel and give it gas in
a parking lot.
Soooo... in doing my usual research, FSM is pretty vague as normal.
Bill was much better in Techinfo, thanks Bill.

But I have a couple initial questions.

1. Are the VIN 1 axles different than K on a 95?
2. Is buying local better than, say, RockAuto, and who should I avoid?
3. How much should I expect to pay for them and is there usually a core charge?
4. What else should I replace while I'm in there. Stabilizer link? Tie rod? Hub?
The car has 163,000 miles.
5. Should I get any of the special tools, or am I over confident I can punch my way
through this job (with the help of the Pontiac Bonneville Club, of course)

Any other words of wisdom before I launch are of course appreciated.

_________________
Black 95 SSEi (original owner) 238K miles
Black 05 GXP (some idiot put the first 12K on it)186K miles
Black 04 Tahoe (original owner)310K miles
Black 16 Traverse (original owner)90K miles
Black 15 Lacrosse (some nice lady put first 15K on it)43K miles


"You can have one in any color as long as it's black" - H. Ford

yes the supercharged axels are different.

thats about all i can help with

If you buy locally, get a reman from NAPA. Avoid Autozone parts at all costs.

Vin1 is very much different than VinK. You can expect to pay less than 100 bucks per axle, price varies greatly based on new/used.

You'll need a 34mm axle nut and a T-55 bit for a ratchet. An impact helps ALOT. This also requires breaking the strut loose on each side, so an alignment will be necessary when you're done (24mm?). Scribe the strut location first though to get it close. Not a complicated job, but there are alot of large fasteners that may fight you. Other parts that can wear (especially in an area known for rust) should be dealt with by determining them beforehand. Get under there and shake stuff.

I strongly suggest two new hubs at this time if they've never been replaced before.

_________________

Click here for mod list for both cars
93 SSEi, 95 SLE (supercharged) 97 Buick LeSabre Limited
PontiacDad at WCBF '04: Cruise control? That's like surrendering!
Comprehensive guide to troubleshooting, rebuilding, and modifying Eaton Superchargers

Are you sure the struts have to be taken loose? I didn't catch that in the FSM
or Bill's write-up. I guess you must loosen them to move the knuckle far enough
to get the shaft out? I really don't want to pay for an alignment unless I put new
struts on.

_________________
Black 95 SSEi (original owner) 238K miles
Black 05 GXP (some idiot put the first 12K on it)186K miles
Black 04 Tahoe (original owner)310K miles
Black 16 Traverse (original owner)90K miles
Black 15 Lacrosse (some nice lady put first 15K on it)43K miles


"You can have one in any color as long as it's black" - H. Ford

Take struts out to swap an axle.....replace hubs that are not broken or worn out..



The way to remove them w/o needing an alignment:
Jack and support vehicle
Remove tire
Drain transmission fluid
Unbolt 10mm holding brake line to body
Remove 34mm nut on axle, then rethread it on to make it flush with the end of the axle. Hit with hammer until you see it move back slightly. This signals that it has broken free from the splines of the hub.
Remove balljoint cotter pin and nut (18mm)
With friend using a 5 foot pry bar pushing down on a-arm, you hit the ball joint (be careful of zerk) to coerce the balljoint down and out w/o destroying the seal.
Pulling the strut toward the back of the car and outward you can remove the axle from the hub.
Using a prybar and being careful pop the axle out of the transmission.
Install is the reverse and ensure you refill the trans.

Benefits of this method is no alignment needed and you don't destroy the balljoint boot.

_________________
97 Ei
97 GS
98 GS

I'm getting confused.
Struts need removal ...or no.
Go ahead and replace hubs that seem fine otherwise...or no.

?????????

_________________
Black 95 SSEi (original owner) 238K miles
Black 05 GXP (some idiot put the first 12K on it)186K miles
Black 04 Tahoe (original owner)310K miles
Black 16 Traverse (original owner)90K miles
Black 15 Lacrosse (some nice lady put first 15K on it)43K miles


"You can have one in any color as long as it's black" - H. Ford

No, you don't need to remove the strut.

_________________
Andrew - owner/operator of Bonnevilles Unlimited

2004 Bonneville GXP | 60k | White Gold Tricoat | custom built supercharged 3800 hot rod | garage queen
1997 Corvette | 55k | Silver Metallic | Z06 wheels | Date-night Hauler/Parts runner
2014 Town & Country Limited | Cashmere Pearl | 95k | Family Hauler
2002 Ram 1500 Quad Cab Sport | Black| 260k | Official Bonneville Hauler

It is your choice.

Do you want to pay $70+ for an alignment, $80+ per side for each hub and do about 3-4 hours of extra work while swearing, bleeding and cursing?

Nearly $250 and 3-4 hours can be saved. On my cars, parts that are not bad don't get replaced unless it is being upgraded with something that will add power or performance.

_________________
97 Ei
97 GS
98 GS

Just checked and...

the largest socket in my set is 32mm and the largest Torx is T-50.

I own like 200 sockets, no kidding, but not those.

Just my luck

_________________
Black 95 SSEi (original owner) 238K miles
Black 05 GXP (some idiot put the first 12K on it)186K miles
Black 04 Tahoe (original owner)310K miles
Black 16 Traverse (original owner)90K miles
Black 15 Lacrosse (some nice lady put first 15K on it)43K miles


"You can have one in any color as long as it's black" - H. Ford

You won't need the T55 unless you change the hubs. Only thing it seems like you might need to buy is the 34mm socket. When buying a 6 point socket is preferred.

_________________
97 Ei
97 GS
98 GS

Most parts stores (Autozone, Advance, etc) will rent out a 34mm socket free of charge. (just pay a deposit while you have it)

_________________
Andrew - owner/operator of Bonnevilles Unlimited

2004 Bonneville GXP | 60k | White Gold Tricoat | custom built supercharged 3800 hot rod | garage queen
1997 Corvette | 55k | Silver Metallic | Z06 wheels | Date-night Hauler/Parts runner
2014 Town & Country Limited | Cashmere Pearl | 95k | Family Hauler
2002 Ram 1500 Quad Cab Sport | Black| 260k | Official Bonneville Hauler

There are a couple ways to do this. I remove the two lower bolts for the struts and swing it all away while breaking the hubs loose and out. I don't have to mess with the ball joints at all. Yes, this does cause a front wheel alignment if your scribe marks aren't REALLY accurate.

There's no need to drain the trans fluid. Just put a small clean container under each side when you pull the axles. The 4T60E loses very little fluid with the axles out.

_________________

Click here for mod list for both cars
93 SSEi, 95 SLE (supercharged) 97 Buick LeSabre Limited
PontiacDad at WCBF '04: Cruise control? That's like surrendering!
Comprehensive guide to troubleshooting, rebuilding, and modifying Eaton Superchargers

If you remove the hubs which will frequently seperate (front and back pieces), why would you also remove the strut bolts? IIRC Bob, Tom and Ben removed Ben's hubs to pull the axles and didn't need to remove the struts as well.

Are the S1 axles too large to fit through the hole where the hub mounts?

_________________
97 Ei
97 GS
98 GS

Yes. That is exactly the problem. At least with L67 axles. Dunno about L27/L36 axles on 4T60's. You have to remove the hub on a 92-95 L67 and break the lower strut loose to pivot the whole s h i t t e r e e down in order to clear the hub end of the axle and remove it.

As we know, L67 axles are larger. Too large to exit through the hub hole.

_________________

Click here for mod list for both cars
93 SSEi, 95 SLE (supercharged) 97 Buick LeSabre Limited
PontiacDad at WCBF '04: Cruise control? That's like surrendering!
Comprehensive guide to troubleshooting, rebuilding, and modifying Eaton Superchargers

I'm still not sold on having to undo the knuckles from the struts. Actually swapped a 4T60 the other night and used the standard ball joint method outlined above. Plus out this way if your hubs have been in for any amount of time, you'll have a tough time not beating them a little to remove them from the knuckes.

_________________
97 Ei
97 GS
98 GS