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 Post subject: Water pump replacement
PostPosted: Wed Oct 08, 2008 11:46 am 
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Location: Ladysmith B.C. WCBF '08, '09 survivor
Year and Trim: no longer a Bonneville owner
I'm going through about a quart of water ever 100 miles or so. The area around the water pump, power steering pump, etc has been wet for a long time, I had suspected a leak at the power steering pump as the wetness always felt oily. I was wrong, it's antifreeze however it was never enough to leave a puddle on the ground.

I felt under the water pump and there is definetly a water leak there, but it don't seem bad enough to use that much water. Is there a chance that it only leaks while driving? I can't find any other place that is wet or looks like it had been wet.

Anyway the old pump comes out and a new one goes in today, if I still loose water I'm going to be a tad upset. I'm going to take a bunch of pictures along the way to document the removal and install on the series 1 L27 since there are differences between it and the series 2 as I found out with the LIM gasket.

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wjcollier07 wrote:
Darn it John...now you got me thinking mine's not big enough.

2001 F150 a basic six cyl with 5 speed manual trans.
'66 Piper Cherokee 360 CID , 180 hp, 155 mph @ 2500 rpm, drop in K&N filter.


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 08, 2008 11:50 am 
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Location: Powell River BC - 7 time WCBF Survivor
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Water pumps don't leak that much usually. They leak a little and then wham they will leak it all out!

I would check the LIM coolant elbows. When you did the LIM gasket, did you use some silicone RTV to help the seal?

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2000 SSEi - SilverBullet - 78,000 kms, 4" "straight shot" custom headlight ram air inlet, TOGs, 1.9's, Lsd, 2.9-3.4"MPS 10-15 psi, Ported GenV, EGR eliminated, OR pushrods, oil volume kit, trani cooler & shift kit, Titanium retainers, 90 lb springs, 160 Stat, 42# injectors, Fuel pump voltage increase, Wideband O2, 3" to dual 2 1/2" Magnaflows, Snow Meth/water injection, after SC temp gauge, 255/50WR17, timing commander set 15-18*@WOT, 2 speed Fan over-ride, disabled DRL, Solid motor mount, Meziere Electric water pump, adjustable fuel pressure regulator, Drilled & slotted rotors/ceramics, GXP sway bars and STB, Upgraded and rebuilt transmission with ZZP 2500 rpm stall TC, Pioneer Bluetooth stereo with sub and 800 W amps, PB 13.5 quarter, (April 2014 car of the month)


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 08, 2008 12:00 pm 
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Location: Ladysmith B.C. WCBF '08, '09 survivor
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Paul, I checked all around the LIM gasket and coolant pipes that go in there, no wetness at all. With the amount of coolant I'm losing I'd have thought there would be puddles under the car every time I parked it.

Since I know the pump is leaking, it is at least part of the problem. When it's replaced I'll know how much of the problem it is.

Matt suggested it may be sucking in through the UIM where the ERG pipe goes in, I checked when it was apart but didn't see any indication of anything wrong there at that time.

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wjcollier07 wrote:
Darn it John...now you got me thinking mine's not big enough.

2001 F150 a basic six cyl with 5 speed manual trans.
'66 Piper Cherokee 360 CID , 180 hp, 155 mph @ 2500 rpm, drop in K&N filter.


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 08, 2008 1:14 pm 
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I got the old pump out but I've got to ask myself one question..................





What the ell were they thinking when the put that da*m stud in the TA mount?

I ended up taking off the body side of the mount and rotating the motor side up out of the way, I didn't want to jack up the motor any further than it was and it would have had to jacked up a LOT more to get that bracket clear.

Lots of corrosion and gunk around the drain hole, definitely been leaking for awhile.

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wjcollier07 wrote:
Darn it John...now you got me thinking mine's not big enough.

2001 F150 a basic six cyl with 5 speed manual trans.
'66 Piper Cherokee 360 CID , 180 hp, 155 mph @ 2500 rpm, drop in K&N filter.


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 08, 2008 1:56 pm 
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To change the TA mount I had to jack the engine all the way up until the alternator hit the strut tower brace....but you have the NA so it's different.

Looks like you found the leak. Hopefully. :-#

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2000 SSEi - SilverBullet - 78,000 kms, 4" "straight shot" custom headlight ram air inlet, TOGs, 1.9's, Lsd, 2.9-3.4"MPS 10-15 psi, Ported GenV, EGR eliminated, OR pushrods, oil volume kit, trani cooler & shift kit, Titanium retainers, 90 lb springs, 160 Stat, 42# injectors, Fuel pump voltage increase, Wideband O2, 3" to dual 2 1/2" Magnaflows, Snow Meth/water injection, after SC temp gauge, 255/50WR17, timing commander set 15-18*@WOT, 2 speed Fan over-ride, disabled DRL, Solid motor mount, Meziere Electric water pump, adjustable fuel pressure regulator, Drilled & slotted rotors/ceramics, GXP sway bars and STB, Upgraded and rebuilt transmission with ZZP 2500 rpm stall TC, Pioneer Bluetooth stereo with sub and 800 W amps, PB 13.5 quarter, (April 2014 car of the month)


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 08, 2008 3:28 pm 
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2000Silverbullet wrote:
To change the TA mount I had to jack the engine all the way up until the alternator hit the strut tower brace....but you have the NA so it's different.

Looks like you found the leak. Hopefully. :-#




I was worried about what Bill said here:

willwren wrote:
Do NOT over-jack the motor in order to get that mount out. The bare minimum ONLY. Over-jacking can cause the passenger axle tripod to seperate.


So I didn't want to jack it up too much.

It's all back together, filled with coolant (green stuff :bow: ), burped, filled again, run up to temp and filled again.

Now the waiting game to see if that cures the leak.

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wjcollier07 wrote:
Darn it John...now you got me thinking mine's not big enough.

2001 F150 a basic six cyl with 5 speed manual trans.
'66 Piper Cherokee 360 CID , 180 hp, 155 mph @ 2500 rpm, drop in K&N filter.


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 08, 2008 9:56 pm 
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Location: Powell River BC - 7 time WCBF Survivor
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John, I read that and followed the procedure that's outlined in YOUR Service Manuals. :wink:

Says to jack the engine until the alternator hits the crossbar. About 4 inches.

I didn't read the page for NA engines but can't be that much different.

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2000 SSEi - SilverBullet - 78,000 kms, 4" "straight shot" custom headlight ram air inlet, TOGs, 1.9's, Lsd, 2.9-3.4"MPS 10-15 psi, Ported GenV, EGR eliminated, OR pushrods, oil volume kit, trani cooler & shift kit, Titanium retainers, 90 lb springs, 160 Stat, 42# injectors, Fuel pump voltage increase, Wideband O2, 3" to dual 2 1/2" Magnaflows, Snow Meth/water injection, after SC temp gauge, 255/50WR17, timing commander set 15-18*@WOT, 2 speed Fan over-ride, disabled DRL, Solid motor mount, Meziere Electric water pump, adjustable fuel pressure regulator, Drilled & slotted rotors/ceramics, GXP sway bars and STB, Upgraded and rebuilt transmission with ZZP 2500 rpm stall TC, Pioneer Bluetooth stereo with sub and 800 W amps, PB 13.5 quarter, (April 2014 car of the month)


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 08, 2008 10:43 pm 
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Well, I guess I should read those service manuals then shouldn't I?

However I think that maybe someone with experience (Bill) could have some info that the service manual left out. :booty:

Anyway it worked out just fine just swinging the bracket out of the way.

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wjcollier07 wrote:
Darn it John...now you got me thinking mine's not big enough.

2001 F150 a basic six cyl with 5 speed manual trans.
'66 Piper Cherokee 360 CID , 180 hp, 155 mph @ 2500 rpm, drop in K&N filter.


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