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 Post subject: vats key
PostPosted: Thu Sep 25, 2008 6:35 pm 
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Joined: Mon Sep 08, 2008 2:03 pm
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Year and Trim: 1994 pontiac bonneville ssei
does anyone know how much a vat key costs i had to get a new lock cylinder because ihad called a dealership and a tech told me that it sounded to him as if the contacks for the vats anti theft were bad so was also wondering are the vats keys vehicle specific and if i would have to take my old key in with me :bstooges:


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 Post subject: Re: vats key
PostPosted: Thu Sep 25, 2008 8:58 pm 
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Retired Gearhead
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Joined: Tue May 20, 2008 9:11 pm
Posts: 2156
Location: Fayette City,PA
Year and Trim: 1990 Bonneville LE
GM uses a common key design. There are 15 different resistance values, if you have a key and a volt meter, you can measure the resistance of the pellet (there's a little silver contact on each side of the key surrounded by a black plastic insulator..put your probe leads on those contacts to measure the resistance.) Post what your measurement and myself or someone here can give you the code.

Now, as I suggested in your other thread on the Pass-Key system, call a locksmith and see if he can replace the contacts or setup a new lock cylinder to match you current key. Most can, and it is cheaper than having a dealer rekey the car.

If you inclined to tackle the repair yourself, lemme describe how to troubleshoot this problem and how to replace the lock cylinder, then you can decide for yourself if you can do it.

First, determine that the contacts are in fact the problem. If you can measure the resistance of the key, then you can probably rule the key out as being the problem. clean the key with some alcohol and try it again in the ignition to see if it works.

If the key is OK and the ignition still doesn't turn on the Pass-Key system, then get under the dash at the base of the steering column and locate the two white wires on a little plug. Those are the two wires leading from the contacts within the lock cylinder. disconnect them, hook your meter up to them, then stick the key in the ignition. If you don't see the resistance you measured on the key itself, you pretty much have proven that the contacts in the lock cylinder are bad. Try shooting a little contact cleaner or carb cleaner into the lock and try again. You might get lucky and blast some crud off the contacts and get the key to read. If not, it's time to replace the lock cylinder.

To get the lock cylinder out, first tie a length of string to the wires you were just working with (about 3' should do nicely.)

Take off the airbag on the steering wheel

Take off the steering wheel (you'll need a steering wheel puller tool)

Take off the steering lock plate (another tool is needed to compress the spring keeping the lock plate on)

Take off the turn signal switch

Look in the top right corner of the steering column. You'll see a single counter-sunk screw. It is holding the lock cylinder into the steering column. Remove it.

Now you can gently pull the entire lock assembly out of the column. The pair of white wires will come out too..be gentle because you are pulling the string you tied to them up into the column.

Untie the string (leaving it in the column) and take the lock cylinder and key to a locksmith for repair, or to the dealer for a replacement.

Assembly is the reverse proceedure. Use the string to pull the wires back through the steering column so they end up in the same path they were in originally.

That's it in a nutshell. It's not hard and the tools are readily available at your local auto parts store.

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In the Garage: 2009 Subaru Outback, 1987 Camaro, 2006 SV650S, 1995 Regal 182 "ASANAGI", 1962 Ford Galaxie 500, 1995 Ford F150 XL 4WD, 1953 Farmall Cub


Last edited by clm2112 on Thu Sep 25, 2008 9:27 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject: Re: vats key
PostPosted: Fri Sep 26, 2008 11:21 am 
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Year and Trim: 2003 Lesabre Limited, 2008 Cobalt, 2014 Malibu
Hunt4RedOctober wrote:
does anyone know how much a vat key costs i had to get a new lock cylinder because ihad called a dealership and a tech told me that it sounded to him as if the contacks for the vats anti theft were bad so was also wondering are the vats keys vehicle specific and if i would have to take my old key in with me :bstooges:


I would take the easy way out. Does the key itself turn the cylinder correctly? Is there any reason you need a new cylinder mechanically?

The resistance of the key can be replaced by a set of resistors you string together with a soldering gun that you buy at Radio Shack. They have to match the one your car uses out of the 15 VATS resistances.

I bought a 5 pack of resistors that add up to 880 ohms (4 @ 220 ohms each soldered in series).

This tells how to find the orange tube with two fine wires inside that split out at the connector at the bottom of the column.

http://vats.likeabigdog.com/

Remember you want to jump the wires going to the connector and to the theft deterrent module at the other side of the car--not the wires going up to the lock cylinder at the top.

I had the lock cylinder replaced on my 93 at nearly $300 for the work and cylinder. That was before info was widespread about the VATS on the internet and I wasn't aware to look for what was there.

If you don't want to do the jumper work yourself, find a local shop that installs car alarms. They buy the resistors in packs so they can pick the one needed to jump the theft deterrrent module when they install alarms. They do this all the time. I have no idea what they would charge but $30-40 would be worth my time for them to do it.


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 Post subject: Re: vats key
PostPosted: Sun Sep 28, 2008 9:01 pm 
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Joined: Wed May 21, 2008 9:38 pm
Posts: 1854
Year and Trim: 1997 SE Anniversary Edition
I bypassed the VAT system myself after reading the key with a voltmeter and getting a 5-pack of the resistors at Radio Shack for a buck.

Took 10 minutes.

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