Going thru fuses underhood and found a looks goldish, its soldid and cant see thru to see if blown? Says 506 DC & 20A in yellow paint and BREAKER stamped on it.

Also whats best way to check passanger side inside fuse panel? I removed kick panel under dash but looks very right

1995 L36 is not crank no start. Turned cam manually w plugs out and in and it turns, so not locked up right? Was slow 2 start for a few days and started up and CEL was on and was sluggish and drove and came back and few groans anf eventually noth8ng. All dash lights come on and headlights dim when cranked. Security light doesn't blink and goes out.

yes, that gold thing is a breaker so its prob. for the lights

there should be a little panel door hiding fuses on pass hush panel ..............here is your manual...........https://my.gmc.com/content/dam/gmownerc ... owners.pdf

check to se if battery is good and cables are connected snug and not rusty. see if it cranks

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poverty forces one to do unorthodox things

2000 SSEi
past rides:
1996 SSEi
1992 GTP
1987 Grand Am

The gold fuse is good then and wouldnt cause no start?

Any easier way than reverse sitting in chair to check passenger side fuse box?

I cant run a jumper cable from pos battery to starter can?

Was trying 2 make sure its starter 100% before removing 2 bench test. Seems like something caused starter 2 lock up or go out, seems like something electrical.

YES BREAKER is good - not the issue

no - upside down in pass seat looking up is easiest - check for ignition fuse in boxes

yes you can run a 12v wire to test starter - test battery first

_________________
poverty forces one to do unorthodox things

2000 SSEi
past rides:
1996 SSEi
1992 GTP
1987 Grand Am

Are you talking about the fuses between the glovebox and A pillar? You can take the glovebox liner insert out to look at those too.

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WHITE WHINE - 1992 SSE Supercharged 236.26 ci (.040 Over) 15.090 at 90.2 MPH on old engine w/ slipping trans & melted O2 sensor - Gen 3 M62 and matching TB, Gen 2 Pully, Zillamotorsports Ported LIM, YT 1.72 Roller Rockers, SII FPR & Injectors, Hypertech Thermomaster chip w/ 160 Thermo, TransGo Shift Kit, Infinity/Pioneer Speakers & a 10" Alpine Type R Sub, all the watts, 140 amp Alternator, Ricepipe CAI w/ heatshield, Pilot Angel Eye Foglights, Clear Corners, '02 17" Chrome Bent 5's, Magnaflow F-Body Muffler and Hi-flo Cat, Ceramic Coated Ported Exhaust Manifolds, Fan Override, Monroe Reflex struts, red calipers
2009 G8 GT - Sport Red Metallic, loaded, SOLO Axlebacks, Rotofab Intake, Tuned, autodim mirror, removed intake manifold cover, HSV GTS triple gauge pod, two tone red-hot shifter and HSV SuperSport steering wheel, GXP rear sway bar and diffuser, 3.45 diff and various Camaro suspension bits, LED Taillights

All fuses were good on passanger side only had 3 relays, all looked good and bot corroded.

Driver side BUS connector under carpet still looked good and intact.

Battery was getting 12 volts at starter didnt have helper yet to crank test it.

Idk why CEL to be instantly on and sluggish while driving, taking awhile 2 get 2 next gear & shifting hard. Then backed into curb caddy cornered pretty hard and bounced and then no start, no crank.

If SECURITY light goes out on dash after a few seconds, it couldn't be VATS could it?

Hear fuel pump prime on 1st try 2 crank and back to ON then Ctank again and then no sound. Like this everytime since no crank no start

check the battery to make sure it holds a good charge - I would do a load test or get a good working one to test the starter. you can try a boost also.

no, if the VATS is the issue, it should flash and stay flashing - its not VATS at this point.

did you check the wires from battery to starter?

_________________
poverty forces one to do unorthodox things

2000 SSEi
past rides:
1996 SSEi
1992 GTP
1987 Grand Am

Havent split open battery wires but they look decent at battery and not corroded or discolored.

Engine block ground was pretty oily, sprayed it w brake clean and shined it up. Going 2 get a known good battery and try it

ok, good, no need to split - do you have 2 wires from battery?

one goes to the maxifuse centre and the other to starter

make sure they both have good contact

yes, test with good battery - it may be that simple !

_________________
poverty forces one to do unorthodox things

2000 SSEi
past rides:
1996 SSEi
1992 GTP
1987 Grand Am

Yes 2 wires from battery, maxifuse L ground looked good 2.

Could battery be bad even if parts store said it was good.?

that would depend on how reliable the guy at the part store is.so I would say yes.

proper way is to fully charge and do a load test to see how fast it discharges. - try a boost and see if the starter moves. if yes, try working good battery.

_________________
poverty forces one to do unorthodox things

2000 SSEi
past rides:
1996 SSEi
1992 GTP
1987 Grand Am

The battery wire at starter, it should not move at all?

You put alot of pressure on big wire and move it maybe 1/16 th.

I need 2 try a good battery, neighbors have bigger GMs w side post.

you dont want to strip it so tighten until snug and then 1/4 turn should be fine - make sure the contacts are clean.

get that GM battery to test starter - charge it first

_________________
poverty forces one to do unorthodox things

2000 SSEi
past rides:
1996 SSEi
1992 GTP
1987 Grand Am