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PostPosted: Tue Dec 12, 2017 2:17 pm 
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Whats weird is it's not overheating at all even when I leave it idle, but I'm not getting heat in the cabin anymore either. I do sometimes. For example I drove 2 hours home, and for the last 15 minutes had heat. Could it be that the pump isn't pushing coolant into my heater core? If that was the case, wouldn't my engine be overheating?


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 12, 2017 5:10 pm 
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feel the hoses going to the core, are they hot? if so, there is no reason you wont have heat if the fan is blowing and vent selection works

be sure coolant level is good - bleed
toggle through the vent selection till you get flow

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PostPosted: Tue Dec 12, 2017 6:36 pm 
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I went and checked them and yes they are getting hot. Then I went in the car and it's blowing heat. I haven't checked them when cold air was blowing but I will next time.


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 12, 2017 7:10 pm 
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ok, good,

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PostPosted: Wed Dec 13, 2017 12:54 pm 
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Checked this morning while car was at operating temp and cold air blowing from vent. Both hoses are hot.


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 13, 2017 4:59 pm 
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Id say there is no issue with heat source - look at blower, air blend( move it to the hot position until thaw or fixed)
does vent selection work well with a good air flow, if not, I would look into the nipple issue first, then head unit

later

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past rides:
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 15, 2017 8:59 am 
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vent selection does not work well. mine is electronic so i cant switch from heat to cold really fast. but based on what you said, i have found that turning the car off and back on again a few times can get my heat blowing, but its cold when im sitting at an idle. and for some reason now my check coolant light has not come on in 2 days but i havent done anything to stop the leak.... i was watching my temp guage and now its going even lower than it was before, dropping down to about 175 for no more than a minute and back up to 200. Its doing this while im driving.


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 15, 2017 12:13 pm 
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your heat not working and the unstable engine temps should be treated as 2 different issues now - please dont mix them, its difficult enough to picture without being there.

when you raise the idle, do you start to feel heat?

keep an eye on coolant level and concentrate on heat for now, ok?

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PostPosted: Sat Dec 16, 2017 12:39 am 
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Gillroyal, what part of Michigan? I am in the Lansing area.

I have just started driving a 1994 SSE and are having the exact same fight with my heat that you described-cycling the car on and off will at times cause the heater to actually work. The heat worked great the 1st week that I drove the car. But now, for the last few days it decides when it wants to work. No problems with my coolant levels or air in the system. No leaks either. My also has the electronic HVAC control.

Maybe we can figure this out together???

Chris


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PostPosted: Sat Dec 16, 2017 8:35 pm 
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check your nipples - they are prob. collapsed, pass kick panel, follow hose to the box

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PostPosted: Sun Dec 17, 2017 12:44 pm 
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Jdwcrw04 wrote:
Gillroyal, what part of Michigan? I am in the Lansing area.

I have just started driving a 1994 SSE and are having the exact same fight with my heat that you described-cycling the car on and off will at times cause the heater to actually work. The heat worked great the 1st week that I drove the car. But now, for the last few days it decides when it wants to work. No problems with my coolant levels or air in the system. No leaks either. My also has the electronic HVAC control.

Maybe we can figure this out together???

Chris



you 2 seem to have the same nipple issue....pics dont work -...viewtopic.php?f=19&t=2884&p=27612&

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PostPosted: Tue Dec 26, 2017 5:58 pm 
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I'm in Marlette MI. It's in the middle of the thumb area. So, today I tried the nipple fix. There were 5 vacuum lines running through the connector. Now vent selection works alot better, but when I set to floor vents only, it also blows out the windshield vent. I added some stop leak as recommended. The little bottle that treats up to 3 gallons. Topped off my coolant, let the car run about 20 minutes and tried bleeding some air out through the thermostat bleeder screw. It's blowing cold still through all the vents. Checked the hoses running to the heater core again and they do feel hot but not too hot to hold continually. The hose that gets fluid from the heater core doesn't seem as hot as the one that pumps fluid into it.


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 26, 2017 8:14 pm 
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sounds like airblend door/actuator is bad - you can move the door to the hot position for the winter till you get it fixed.

info here....https://www.gmforum.com/1992-1999-91/19 ... ir-280678/

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PostPosted: Sat Dec 30, 2017 4:16 pm 
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Thanks for all the help. I took out the glove box, moved the airmix to full heat setting, and disconnected the arm that controls it. Now I have full heat all the time. If it gets too hot I'll just crack a window.

From what I read I think I also figured out how I caused the problem in the first place. When I replaced my tensioner pulley assembly, I disconnected the battery so I could move the alternator. Apparently since I didn't go in the car and turn off the AC first, the airmix was not in the default position, and disconnecting the battery resets the cpu to think it is. Then, reconnecting the battery and turning the car on causes it to try and move the airmix and it breaks or strips a gear. Idk, that's just my understanding from what I read. It makes sense if you don't think about it lol. So for anyone else doing a job that requires disconnecting the battery, be sure to turn the AC off first so when you reconnect the battery, everything is actually in the default position, like the computer thinks it is. Hope this helps someone else avoid this issue. Nothing I read before starting this job said anything about turning the AC off and I've paid for the mistake.

One other thing, the stop leak didn't work. It hasn't even slowed the leak, and I followed the instructions, put in rad, top off with coolant, run for about 30. Do I need another product or something heavier?


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 02, 2018 9:55 am 
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Gillroyale wrote:

One other thing, the stop leak didn't work. It hasn't even slowed the leak, and I followed the instructions, put in rad, top off with coolant, run for about 30. Do I need another product or something heavier?


Yes. You need something heavier---a water pump ;) :wink:


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 02, 2018 11:22 am 
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I dont see how breakage can occur from power cut - more likely the part is 'lost' and cant find its rest position


no, the stuff I posted WILL WORK - you have to idle until the temp gets to 90c/200+, then it will seal - keep the heat off. you know its woking when upper rad hose gets stiff from pressure after you get pressure, go for good drive to keep the temp up. remember, its temporary- 2 - 3 months.

oh, this is similar - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sCfHg7bI2pw

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past rides:
1996 SSEi
1992 GTP
1987 Grand Am


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 10, 2018 5:13 pm 
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96 SSEi wrote:
I dont see how breakage can occur from power cut - more likely the part is 'lost' and cant find its rest position


no, the stuff I posted WILL WORK - you have to idle until the temp gets to 90c/200+, then it will seal - keep the heat off. you know its woking when upper rad hose gets stiff from pressure after you get pressure, go for good drive to keep the temp up. remember, its temporary- 2 - 3 months.

oh, this is similar - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sCfHg7bI2pw


I drove the car to Walmart, which is 25-30 minutes away. Bought the stop leak and shopped for about 45 minutes. Coolant was low at this point.

Used a wet towel to take off the radiator cap. Put in the whole bottle, exact same bottle from the link you sent. This put my coolant level at almost full. Topped off with just a flash more coolant in the rad to bring it to the filler neck, and filled the empty reservoir to the full cold line. Drove home, about 25-30 minutes. Where did I go wrong? Where is the stop leak i put in there? I really need to get this right. The bottle said I can predisolve the pellets. I figured putting them in already warm coolant would kinda be the same.


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 11, 2018 6:56 am 
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buddy, did the temp reach 200f? YOU HAVE TO LET IT IDLE UNTIL THE TEMP GETS TO 200F!! NOT LET IT SIT AND GO SHOPPING...LOL

get it HOT!!! - heat off -if the leak is a waterfall, it wont work - should work for a weep hole leak.


set time aside to do this properly and it WILL WORK - treat it as an afterthought and you're wasting time, money

fOLLOW THE INSTRUCTIONS dont 'think' ok?

sorry i may have misunderstood that you let the car cool - you shoud use it from a cold start

if you see an oily slick floating in the rad, the stopleak is there - add another bottle from cold engine

so you will:

ADD STOP LEAK TO COLD ENGINE.

TOP OFF RAD IF NOT FULL

IDLE WITH HEAT OFF AND HOOD CLOSED

WHEN TEMP GAUGE GETS TO 200F, FEEL THE UPPER RAD HOSE - SHOULD START TO GET STIFF

KEEP IDLING UNTIL THE HOSE IS STIFF

GO FOR A 30 MINUTE DRIVE

YOU SHOULD BE GOOD

post back pl............later

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past rides:
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