I have a 92 SSEi and I first realized something wasn't quite right when I would for example be under full throttle in 2nd gear and noticed varying engine power, not hugely noticeable but noticeable. Then that problem seemed to clear itself up and it was running normally for a the last few weeks. But now recently I get the service engine light sometimes, it only comes on for a few seconds while driving then goes off and is not dependent on how the car is being driven. I also noticed that ever since the light has started to come on/off, engine power is about the same as a naturally aspirated 3800. Other than that the car runs great like it's supposed to. Any ideas?

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Chris
97 SLE with L67 (1 of 354!) * 90 Grand Prix SE * 1992 SSEi * 99 Buick Regal * 2006 Chevy Uplander

Get the code! Paper clip trick in techinfo... My guess is pre-ignition is causing timing retard

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WHITE WHINE - 1992 SSE Supercharged 236.26 ci (.040 Over) 15.090 at 90.2 MPH on old engine w/ slipping trans & melted O2 sensor - Gen 3 M62 and matching TB, Gen 2 Pully, Zillamotorsports Ported LIM, YT 1.72 Roller Rockers, SII FPR & Injectors, Hypertech Thermomaster chip w/ 160 Thermo, TransGo Shift Kit, Infinity/Pioneer Speakers & a 10" Alpine Type R Sub, all the watts, 140 amp Alternator, Ricepipe CAI w/ heatshield, Pilot Angel Eye Foglights, Clear Corners, '02 17" Chrome Bent 5's, Magnaflow F-Body Muffler and Hi-flo Cat, Ceramic Coated Ported Exhaust Manifolds, Fan Override, Monroe Reflex struts, red calipers
2009 G8 GT - Sport Red Metallic, loaded, SOLO Axlebacks, Rotofab Intake, Tuned, autodim mirror, removed intake manifold cover, HSV GTS triple gauge pod, two tone red-hot shifter and HSV SuperSport steering wheel, GXP rear sway bar and diffuser, 3.45 diff and various Camaro suspension bits, LED Taillights

x2 on getting the code.
The SES light flashes to warn you of a potentially catalyst damaging issue.
Ignition system troubles head the list of likely causes.
Failing coils, bad wires, worn spark plugs, ICM failing are all possible ignition system suspects.
Fuel issues are often due to a clogged fuel filter, faulty fuel pressure regulator or failing fuel pump.
There are other possibilities, too so getting the code can help narrow down the source.

Just checked the stored codes, they are 56 and 58. Looks like 56 is Quad-Driver " B " Fault and 58 is PASS-Key Fuel Enable Circuit. I should add that the i took the car in a couple weeks ago to get the alignment checked. Immediately after leaving the alignment place is when the ses light started to come on. The ses never came on before that. From a google search I am seeing that the quad-driver b code could mean something is shorting out. I wonder if the mechanics were pushing around on wiring and it caused this.

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Chris
97 SLE with L67 (1 of 354!) * 90 Grand Prix SE * 1992 SSEi * 99 Buick Regal * 2006 Chevy Uplander

The great thing about this long running forum is that sometimes forum searches yield some very valuable info.

Back in 2008 Willwren wrote,"56 is Quad Driver B which is one of 3 things or more: Boost control solenoid on the front of the supercharger mounted to the round black actuator. Did you re-connect it? EGR solenoid (usually disconnected or it throws an individual solenoid code instead of a QuadB). Is it disconnected from your work? Round mushroom thing? Try cleaning and lightly oiling the 3 springs and shafts otherwise. 3rd thing is the TCC solenoid in the trans, and I doubt that unless it's blown, as it doesn't sound like the car will drive 48mph for the TCC to even want to lockup."
from
post40476.html?hilit=code 56 quad driver b#p40476


Taken from
post136498.html?hilit=code 56 quad driver b#p136498

Code 58 is a known bug in the 1992 PCM.
Just ignore this one.

Take note that the 2nd link contains pages of the FSM with troubleshooting info, so don't just go with the quotes and skip the actual post.

since you state that the car feels non boosted, I would check the boost control solenoid first

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poverty forces one to do unorthodox things

2000 SSEi
past rides:
1996 SSEi
1992 GTP
1987 Grand Am

You can remove the little vacuum elbow from between the solenoid and the boost control actuator then see if your power came back.

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WHITE WHINE - 1992 SSE Supercharged 236.26 ci (.040 Over) 15.090 at 90.2 MPH on old engine w/ slipping trans & melted O2 sensor - Gen 3 M62 and matching TB, Gen 2 Pully, Zillamotorsports Ported LIM, YT 1.72 Roller Rockers, SII FPR & Injectors, Hypertech Thermomaster chip w/ 160 Thermo, TransGo Shift Kit, Infinity/Pioneer Speakers & a 10" Alpine Type R Sub, all the watts, 140 amp Alternator, Ricepipe CAI w/ heatshield, Pilot Angel Eye Foglights, Clear Corners, '02 17" Chrome Bent 5's, Magnaflow F-Body Muffler and Hi-flo Cat, Ceramic Coated Ported Exhaust Manifolds, Fan Override, Monroe Reflex struts, red calipers
2009 G8 GT - Sport Red Metallic, loaded, SOLO Axlebacks, Rotofab Intake, Tuned, autodim mirror, removed intake manifold cover, HSV GTS triple gauge pod, two tone red-hot shifter and HSV SuperSport steering wheel, GXP rear sway bar and diffuser, 3.45 diff and various Camaro suspension bits, LED Taillights

My experience with quad drivers is they go bad if the issue isn't fixed. If the thing that's being controlled (the coil in the solenoid) is open circuit long enough it burns out the driver. If it's intermittent, I'd recommend checking that the terminals inside the wire connectors are properly springing up so they make good contact with the sensor terminals, and that the wires aren't internally broken. Wiring is the most annoying thing to diagnose, but is generally the main cause of stuff like that.

I had one bad coil in the EGR solenoid, and it threw a quad driver code on the '93 SE. By the time I figured out what it was and replaced the EGR it was too late. I don't know enough about the PCM to try and replace the driver (which can be done). Junkyard PCM was just easier.

If you have a DMM, you can use the diode tester and resistance meter to determine if any of the coils in the solenoids is open. I can't remember the number, open circuit or little to no resistance means that the coil is bad. I want to say 5-10 ohms is normal, but I don't have that info.

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Boost addict


The Fleet:
'93 SSEi - Twincharged + manual Build thread
'97 Camaro - Top swap
'05 STS - V8, AWD, her DD
'92 Trofeo - Fair weather DD
'99 Montana - top swap 3800
'04 Sierra 2500HD - LLY Duramax

Current project:
Something cool, trust me.

Upcoming projects:
'92 Bonneville SSE
'87 LeSabre T-type
'67 LeSabre

Gone to greener pastures:
'84 Sierra Classic - Twin turbo 3800
'97 LeSabre - Top swap

RIP:
'86 LeSabre - pictures
'93 SE - L67

I'm leaning toward the boost control solenoid. I did take note of the boost gauge when the car feels non boosted under full throttle and sure enough the gauge is just slightly above 0, where as normally the gauge goes way over to the right. The issue is intermittent.

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Chris
97 SLE with L67 (1 of 354!) * 90 Grand Prix SE * 1992 SSEi * 99 Buick Regal * 2006 Chevy Uplander

Today I checked the resistance with a multimeter on the boost control solenoid, it measured one ohm so I am thinking it is no good. Is the one in the link below the one I need?

https://www.google.com/shopping/product ... ALIQ2SsIJA

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Chris
97 SLE with L67 (1 of 354!) * 90 Grand Prix SE * 1992 SSEi * 99 Buick Regal * 2006 Chevy Uplander

from the description, this is a barometric sensor, and since you are looking for a solenoid, I would say no it's not the correct part - does it look similar?

_________________
poverty forces one to do unorthodox things

2000 SSEi
past rides:
1996 SSEi
1992 GTP
1987 Grand Am

That is the right thing. The part for Series I was discontinued sometime back, but the Series II solenoid works if you bend the bracket. You'll see what you need to do when you compare them.

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WHITE WHINE - 1992 SSE Supercharged 236.26 ci (.040 Over) 15.090 at 90.2 MPH on old engine w/ slipping trans & melted O2 sensor - Gen 3 M62 and matching TB, Gen 2 Pully, Zillamotorsports Ported LIM, YT 1.72 Roller Rockers, SII FPR & Injectors, Hypertech Thermomaster chip w/ 160 Thermo, TransGo Shift Kit, Infinity/Pioneer Speakers & a 10" Alpine Type R Sub, all the watts, 140 amp Alternator, Ricepipe CAI w/ heatshield, Pilot Angel Eye Foglights, Clear Corners, '02 17" Chrome Bent 5's, Magnaflow F-Body Muffler and Hi-flo Cat, Ceramic Coated Ported Exhaust Manifolds, Fan Override, Monroe Reflex struts, red calipers
2009 G8 GT - Sport Red Metallic, loaded, SOLO Axlebacks, Rotofab Intake, Tuned, autodim mirror, removed intake manifold cover, HSV GTS triple gauge pod, two tone red-hot shifter and HSV SuperSport steering wheel, GXP rear sway bar and diffuser, 3.45 diff and various Camaro suspension bits, LED Taillights

The new solenoid fixed it. I really appreciate the help!

_________________
Chris
97 SLE with L67 (1 of 354!) * 90 Grand Prix SE * 1992 SSEi * 99 Buick Regal * 2006 Chevy Uplander