My front pads are grinding the rotor, they are worn down to metal. Should I just get new pads and rotors? Can I get away with turning the old rotors. $I can get both turned for $20 or 2 new rotors for $66 and pads are $20. Do I need shims or new calipers slides or any lubricants? I'm not familiar with brakes.

Thanks,
Justin

These cars are underbraked stock. When you spin the rotors, you loose thermal mass and make the rotors more prone to warping.

I would replace the rotors with the thickest/heaviest you can find. Higher quality brake pads will have a pad on the back will seat well. Lubing the slider pins and the shims where the pad sides is good practice. Your stock hardware (unless it's sticking) should be fine.

_________________

95 SLE... a keeper. 241k miles. Low and Slow.
97 BMW 528i
98 Infiniti vq35'd i30: 13.3@104mph, 30MPG Hwy (RIP)
02 Jag X-type
03 BMW M5
05 Chevy Cobalt LS
07 Infiniti G35s 6MT (Sold)
07 Ducati Monster S2R 800 with DS1000 swap
83 Yamaha IT175K
72 Yamaha DS7: '74 RD250 swap, JL chambers

Info on dropping a 92-99: Here.

I got new pads and rotors. I started on LF & got it all apart and could not get caliper piston squeezed back in? The pads were basically metal to metal on the old gouged and pitted rotors. If I can not get piston back in, there toast right? I'm sure there from the factory in 1995

Thanks
Justin

I'm assuming you're using a good c-clamp or similar to push the piston back in?

You may have corrosion on the piston not letting to go back in or it heated up till it froze.

Short of taking them off, trying to dislodge the piston with compressed air at the banjo fitting, and looking at the sealing surface of the piston, it's hard to say.

_________________

95 SLE... a keeper. 241k miles. Low and Slow.
97 BMW 528i
98 Infiniti vq35'd i30: 13.3@104mph, 30MPG Hwy (RIP)
02 Jag X-type
03 BMW M5
05 Chevy Cobalt LS
07 Infiniti G35s 6MT (Sold)
07 Ducati Monster S2R 800 with DS1000 swap
83 Yamaha IT175K
72 Yamaha DS7: '74 RD250 swap, JL chambers

Info on dropping a 92-99: Here.

I got all new pads rotors and calipers on front. Pedal is still spongy. Any tips on bleeding Heard about a scantron tester or somwthing

Are the rear brakes good?
Are either of the rear wheel cylinders leaking any fluid?
Even a small leak is no good, since the brakes rely on being sealed and free of air, as well as being adjusted.
Rear drum brakes need to be properly adjusted in order for the brake pedal to be high enough off the floor.
Did you open any bleeders or replace any hydraulic parts (brake line, hose, caliper)?
That is typically why brakes need to be bled.
The most basic way to bleed brakes requires a helper to push the brake pedal 4-5 times and then hold down the brake pedal, while the pedal is held down, you open up a bleeder screw to allow air and fluid out, then close it again.
You will notice that the fluid flows out in a steady stream, once the air is gone from that wheel.
You bleed all the air out from the right rear brake (passenger's side is the right side), then bleed all air from the left rear---adding fluid to the master cylinder as needed to ensure that it is never low on fluid---next bleed the right front and finally the left front.
If you have to replace the rear brakes (shoes worn down to any rivet--or nearly that worn--unriveted shoes worn thin, shoes worn unevenly), this video shows how (Lesabre rear brakes are the same as ours)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8pKrRfzPvlc
To adjust the rear brakes, skip to 18 minutes in this video : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MCpCkun2qxA
The second video is very in-depth but the brake shoes are held on differently than on our Bonnevilles.